Frog
by Barry Ekstrand a.k.a. Barry/TX



Materials

 

Tiemco TMC 8089, size 6 hook

White Craft Foam, 3 to 5mm thick

Rainey’s Float Foam (extra large diameter, orange color), cut into 9/16” long collar

Yellow holographic stick-on eyes

Olive waterproof marker

Olive rubber leg material

20# monofilament for weed guard

Industrial Strength E6000 glue (or Shoe Goo)

Zap-a-Gap

Olive Thread, 6/0



Tying Instructions

Cut white foam into body shape (it is not quite a diamond as the ends that form the back end are squared off) and color one half (both sides) with olive marker. Note that foam body will be tied around foam collar with the white (“belly”) side down. Start olive thread and tightly wrap monofilament weed guard around bend of hook to hook shank. Advance thread to middle of hook and tie in rubber leg material for front legs. Use three strands of leg material. Allow enough room that the foam collar can sit in front of the legs and be about ¼” from the eye.

Move thread back down the hook as it hangs just even with the hook point and tie in back leg material. Back legs should be a little longer than the front legs.

Put collar on perpendicular to hook shank by impaling collar in the center and sliding down the shank to just in front of the front legs. Take craft foam body and impale it with scissors where the olive meets the white in the center of the foam and run over eye of hook to the collar. Put a thin layer of Industrial Strength E6000 glue on the inside of the foam and glue the top and bottom sides together. Use paperclips to hold the top and bottom together while the glue dries.


Tie off the back of the foam with 3 or 4 half hitches. Put a drop of Zap-a-Gap on the tied-off thread to strengthen the bond. Tie in a thread base at the front of the hook behind the eye but in front of the fly head.

Take the monofilament and bring from the bend to the eye and tie in loosely leaving a tight loop underneath and excess monofilament to melt into a ball at the tip. Put a drop of Zap-a-Gap on the thread head to strengthen the bond. Burn the tip of the monofilament to melt it into a ball at the tip. Put a drop of Zap-a-Gap on the thread head to strengthen the bond. Glue in doll eyes where the collar is.

Tie knots in the legs to form “knee joints” in the back legs, then tie knots to form hands” in all legs. Separate the rubber strands in the hands after tying the knot.

How to Fish

 

This is fished similar to a popper. Cast into the weeds, reeds or hydrilla. Nice presentation is neither required nor desired. Let it sit. Twitch it and let it sit. The action of the legs and the profile will create an exciting piscatorial adventure.


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Halloween Popper

Jim Moore a.k.a. 5/0

 

 

Materials

Hook: Mustad #33903 Kink-shank #8
Cork: Netcraft #665-101 (5/16x7/32) or #665-102 (3/8x9/32).

Tail: Bucktail or Marabou
Paint: Testor's Model Paint (Acrylic... NOT enamel)
Thread: 3/0 flat waxed or Uni-thread.
"Extras": rubber legs, stick-on eyes, white sidewalls etc. I don't often bother .

Tying Instructions

 

Shape the cork.  Put the cork large-end-down on the table and slice straight down with a razor blade, removing about 1/4 of the cork.  This is the popper "bottom".  Put the popper on its bottom with the large end toward you.  Slice down on the large end at about a 10 degree angle in from the top thereby creating the "popping face."  Cut a slot running end-to-end for the hook in the popper "bottom". Make sure this slot is centered along the popper bottom for its whole length.


Attach the body to the hook.
  Fit the hook in the slot. The hook shank should be more or less flush with the popper "bottom". The eye should protrude near the bottom of the popper face just enough to allow tying on the tippit.  The rear of the cork should end just short of being even with the hook point. When viewed in profile, the cork should look "level" with the hook shank. When satisfied with the fit, glue the hook in place with 5-minute epoxy and let dry.


Paint the Popper.  The "Halloween" name came from using a black/orange color scheme.  Any colors sceme can be used. I use Testor's ACRYLIC Model Paints NOT the enamel type. Make sure the "face" of the popper is one you can see well on the water.  The color of the bottom and back end doesn't matter.  I usually make them the same as the face.



Tie the tail.  I prefer sparse tails, or no more than "medium" amounts of bucktail.  The length should be close to the overall length of the hook.  Tie the trimmed  butt-end of the bucktail flush with the back of the popper.  Tie off.


"Extras."  Push a large needle through the body about 1/3 of the way behind the face and then pull the leg material through with a bobbin threader.

 

How to Fish

 

"Fishing in place" - Drop the popper onto a target area (shoreline vegetation and docks/piers etc., usually on more still water) and “pop” it without moving it more than a few inches.  Pause and repeat.  Vary the length of the pauses up to as much as a full minute. You can substitute even smaller "twitches" for the pops when fishing for Bream.
”Chugging" - used for rougher and, usually, more open water, like over weed beds out away from shore. This is essentially one "pop" followed quickly by an "elongated" "pop" - sort of bulling the popper through the water for about a foot or so. Follow immediately with a steady pull (just to make a wake) for about 18"-24" and then another big pop and repeat the sequence.
Underwater - tied onto a sinking or sink-tip line, the HP can be made to bounce along underwater but over the top of submerged structure.

 

 

 

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