| Topko Gongma - July 7th |
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| It's not that evident from this picture but the volcanic rock which supports the glacier runoff is reddish in color. This is really noticeable where the streams merge below with the Chandra. About a 100 yards back from where this was taken, the trail is very narrow and drops at about a 65 degree angle down to the river. A horse lost its life not long before we passed through here when it slipped off the trail then rolled all the way to the bottom taking a weeks worth of provisions with it. To the right is our campsite. |
| When we arrived at Topko Gongma the river was too high to cross so we had to spend the night and wait until the following morning. The crossing has to done before the sun heats up the glaciers enough to make the river too dangerous to traverse. We had to cross about 12 different streams on the trek and the trick was to get across before our tender, bare feet went cryonic all the while trying painfully to avoid stepping on something raggedy-jaggedy. Thanks to Szymon for documenting this memorable event. |
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| About an hour up the trail to Topko Yongma we had to cross yet another stream. This was narrower but much swifter and deeper than the one we crossed at Topko Gongma. I put my camera in its case, then wrapped it in a plastic bag and stowed it in my daypack...just in case. Good thing. I fell just ahead of where the guy in red is. If Chher hadn't had a good grip on my hand I could have been swept down to the Chandra, probably discovered days later floating face down a few hundred miles downstream by some Indian youngsters who would choose to amuse themselves by poking holes in my bloated body just to watch it ooze. And as I head for the next bardo I hear Don Henley singing; "In a New York minute, everything can change...oouuuoouuu." |
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| Landscape on the way to Topko Yongma. |