1) You are waiting outside, slightly beyond where the wave breaks.
2) You see a wave you want to ride.
3) You turn your board calmly toward shore and lie down in the middle of the board, putting your chin on the mark that tells you you're in the middle.
4) Stroke hard four or five times to get the board moving.
5) Relax, paddle easy, and look back over you shoulder to see the wave.
If it's too small, you may need to paddle a little harder to get in farther to catch it, or wait for another wave. If it's too big, getting too steep too fast, stop. Sit up. The wave may just move under you. If you're too far in and the wave is going to dump on you, get off your board and dive. If it looks just right, continue paddling easy until the wave reaches you and picks up the tail.
6) Stroke hard two or three times to keep the nose out and get on the wave. Arch your neck and back to aim the nose if need be.
7) If you board starts to move on its own power, wait a second or stroke once more before you get up. Beginners, because they're uneasy, often get up too early, before they've caught up the wave, and thus miss it.
8) If you're sure you caught the wave, push up and stand in your infamous surfer sideways crouch.
9) Ride the wave in joy.
(Step 10 has to do with death and taxes)
BILL MORRIS & WATER TRADER 1997 - 2000