CLEANING OLD REELS (revised 6/2001)
A couple of years ago I purchased an old raised pillar fishing reel on EBAY. The picture that was displayed on-line made the reel look pretty nice. Boy, was I surprised when the reel came and I found that someone had performed such a vigorous cleaning job that they had actually removed some of the metal from the crank and buffed off most of the original finish. The tool used to perform this butchery was most likely a wire buffing wheel.
There are different schools of thought on reel cleaning. Some individuals believe that old reels should be left the way they are. The other extreme would be the guy with the wire wheel that sold me the reel on EBAY. Then there are those who believe that carefully cleaning and servicing a reel will improve it’s appearance and collectability. I fall into this last category; however, I might refrain from removing the attractive patina that may be found on an old nickel-silver or brass reel (but probably not!).
Generally, the best way to begin a cleaning is to first disassemble the reel. I suggest that caution be used unless one has had prior experience with the reel. Some reels can be pretty complex devices and can really put one to the test when reassemble time comes. If a reel is very complex, like the newer Shimano baitcasters, it is a good idea to have a parts diagram that clearly shows the relationship of all the pieces. Old, cheap spin cast reels can be good training aids for the first complete cleaning job one is going to attempt.
Make sure you have an uncluttered work area and a safe place to lay out your parts. As you remove screws note their length and where they came from as some reels use screws of the same diameter and thread size but different lengths to attach side plates and other parts. If possible, try and lay out the parts in an orderly fashion so that it will be easier to remember where they came from. Make sure you use the right tools for the job. Screwdrivers should fit the slot of the screw you are trying to remove. If you use a screwdriver that is too large or too small and you may end up damaging the slot or slipping and scratching the reel surface.
Okay, so now you have these parts lying all over your kitchen table. Lets talk about getting them cleaned up. There are many different ideas on how to get the fish guts, grease, and corrosion cleaned off but I will tell you the one that works well for me. My secret is to use really hot water and soap. It seems to be safe for most parts and does a pretty good job. Palmolive dishwashing soap is a good product for cutting grease and can be used full strength for heavy grease. This should be safe for Bakelite, plastic, and most delicate materials. For those interested in other techniques, I will provide an additional source where you can find more on this subject (Look below).
A firm toothbrush or small nylon cleaning brush is great for scrubbing off the gunk and won't scratch the surface. I generally lay the reel and parts in the sink ( be careful not to loose them down the disposal) and run the water as hot as it will go. This will loosen up the grease and gunk. Next, I put a small amount of Palmolive on my brush and start scrubbing. This generally does it. You can use extra fine steel wool with soap to remove rust and stuck on stuff. If you go to a courser grade be careful not to scratch the reel surface. The soap actually lubricates things and helps prevent the steel wool from cutting too deep.
If you are dealing with a reel that has been pumped full of heavy duty wheel bearing grease you may need a solvent to get it all out. You can use an automotive type like carburetor cleaner but watch out for any plastic as it might melt it.
The important thing to remember is, proceed with caution. Don’t force stuck screws and nuts unless you have unlimited access to a wide variety of hardware and a tap and die set. Sometimes it is better to forego complete disassembly. Don’t wreck a fine old reel by snapping off a screw in the side plate or bending a part. Replacement parts for older reels can be extremely hard, if not impossible, to find.
For more detailed information on the subject of cleaning reels, I would recommend the following source:
The Reel News – Volume 8, Number 4 and Volume 9, number 1. The Reel News is a quarterly magazine published by the Old Reel Collectors Association (ORCA). Old copies of the magazine can be found on their website (see my Links). In these two issues Robert A. Miller does a great job of teaching reel cleaning, restoration and repair.
If you get it apart and cannot get it back together, and it is a Penn reel, call my friend Ed Barrett. Ed is an authorized repair guru for Penn reels. He may work on others if he isn't too busy and has the pieces. Give him a call: Ed Barrett (925) 625-5648, FAX (925) 625-1973. Ed lives in Oakley, CA.
For Mitchell reels with a three digit model number I can possibly help you if you find yourself in a bind. I am willing to clean and perform repairs on older Mitchell reels if you want to mail them to me. I charge $10 to clean a 300, 301, 400, 410, 320, 324, (etc.) type reel. If you want it really tuned and the spool axel (shaft) polished add another $5. Shipping charges vary depending on zone. I will replace parts and do repairs if I have the parts or you supply them. Email me for a quote. You are welcome to email me if you are looking for repair parts and I will check my inventory. Most of the stuff I have is used. If you have other repair or cleaning needs, send me an email and I will let you know if I can help out.