~Prov. 9:8
For both Mens and Womens Civil War clothing, I have been using Past Patterns, and the new historical Simplicity line. I have altererd certain Period Impressions and Vogue Patterns, and also modifiy the Simplicity patterns. I would like to acquire the Charlie Childs patterns as I start to make more Civil War uniforms.
What I Work With:
So far, my sources for fabric and supplies has been limited to the local Jo-Anns. I try to buy only natural fabrics - good cottons and muslins, only cotton velvets, linens and wools when avaliable. I have found a few good wool blends that work great in a pinch, but as a general rule, avoid blends as my opinion on them is "what's the point". Good silks and satins are expensive to come by, but the synthetic substitutes just look fake and tacky to me.
I use poly-cotton Guterman thread for machine sewing, but for hand finishing, topstitching, and buttonholes, use either cotton or linen thread.
Construction Techniques!
Ladies Dresses:
All bodices are lined, unless otherwise requested. I will always strongly suggest that dress bodices be at least half lined. I pipe (self fabric, 1/16-1/8" piping) the armholes and will either pipe or bias bind the neck and waist. In general, I use hook and eye tape for the front opening, but if requested, I will gladly and for extra $$ dispense with the tape and sew the fasteners (no repros yet, sorry) on individually. I like to use a one-piece bodice back, and then sew a faux seam for the side curves. If the fabric is particularly fine, I will whip the seams for extra $$. I don't bone bodices as a standard feature yet, so that would cost extra, too. Cotton is the easiest fabric to use, but don't pass up silks and fine wools as other dress options, too!
If the dress is one piece, I whipstitch the skirt directly to the waist of the bodice. This means that most of my dresses will open at the front, in line with the bodice opening. I can make a waistband and make the skirt opening at the side, with hooks to hook the front of the bodice to the skirt, but it will cost extra $$.
I put a muslin dust guard on all my skirts, and often use hem tape. I just use poly-cotton bias tape, oh well. But I'd rather not color coordinate the hem tape to the dress - that just wasn't done much back then.
As for trim, I've used all sorts of ribbons, buttons, braid, et cetera. I apply it all by hand if I can, so the more trim, the more time, the more money - but also more original!
I attach a white collar (pointed or rounded) to all dresses, and will either include a pair of undersleeves (drawstring or elastic) or will attach cuffs to the inside of the sleeve opening.
***Since dresses of the era were custom garments and not bought off the rack (just like mine!), there will need to be at least one fitting to get the bodice to fit correctly and tightly. You will need to take your measurements over the proper undergarments (you do have them don't you???), and then I will match that with the "closest size up" pattern size. After I sew up the bodice - with the front closure, but no sleeves - there will have to be a fitting where I will adjust the side and shoulder seams, the back, and the front darts.
Ladies Undergarments:
If you are purchasing a dress, I strongly suggest that you make sure you own at least one petticoat and a chemise - they will make your dress fit more comfortably. I sell some undergarments and can direct you to a corset (until I start to make them myself).
I have been using the Simplicity line for chemises and split-crotch drawers. I can also make pull on or elastic waist drawers for those who are not quite ready for the authentic alternative *grin* The undergarments use flat-felled seams and other authentic techniques that make for a sturdy garment with no raw edges anywhere. I hand finish the chemise and have put tucks along the hem and at the front opening. I suggest making undergarments from a sturdy cotton muslin, although I have also made a chemise of fine cotton batiste.
Mens Shirts and Drawers:
Both garments are best of cotton or muslin. All the buttonholes are sewn by hand, and the shirt is finished by hand. I am willing to sew parts or the entire shirt by hand as it makes for a very nice look. Any machine topstitching is done with a smaller, tighter stitch length to make the garment more sturdy and authentic. I have a few different shirt patterns, 1850s civilian shirts with various collars and front closures, and a basic 1860 shirt.
The drawers pattern is not a military issue - it has a yoke in the back and a 2 or 3 button front fly opening. I have used a french seam up the legs but can probably change that to a felled seam ;-)
Waistcoats:
I'm working on drafting some good looking patterns from various pattern companies, using Vogue as a base (hey, men's styles haven't changed that much!). I use polished cotton for the backing, and a period buckle at the back adjuster. Styles avaliable are 2-4 welt pockets; two different kinds of notched lapels, shawl collar, or no collar; single or double breasted. I like to use brocades or wools, but if I flat line the front I have used plain cotton. The vest is completely topstitched, and I handstitch all the buttonholes.
Trowsers:
My latest venture! Again, I use the Simplicity pattern which features a great yoke in the back, mule ear pockets, and a watch pocket set in the waistband. There can be either eyelets at the back or a buckle. The pockets are machine topstitched, and, as usual, I hand sew the buttonholes. The trowsers are best made of wool, and buy a pair of drawers!