Combs and Kames
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中国古代的梳篦多为木制或竹制以及名贵物料制作,如金、银、象牙、犀角、水晶、玳瑁、锡、嵌玉镶珠等材质。梳子在古代称为栉,包括梳子和篦子,汉代许慎《说文解字》有云:“栉,梳篦之总名也”。梳篦两者的主要区别在齿部,梳子的齿粗而稀,篦子的齿细且密。 梳篦从古至今,已有六千余年的历史,在这漫长的过程中,梳篦的形制有很大的变化,我国最早的栉出土距今约六千年。从已出土和一些民间传世的梳篦看,汉、唐、宋各代各有不同。汉代的呈较长马蹄形,纹饰一般以云气纹为主,间有入羽鸟兽等;唐代的呈马蹄形,下部略宽;宋代的为月牙形。 在古代,梳篦是八大发饰之一,妇女们常把精美的梳篦插在发髻上,当作发饰,时间一久,还形成了插梳之风。在中国历史上享誉海内外的传统梳子则属江苏常州的“宫梳名篦”和福州工艺品三宝之一的“牛羊角梳”,以及广西桂林的“楠竹梳篦”。用梳、篦梳头养生、古已有之,梳子还得了个美名“木齿丹”。 |
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| Ancient Chinese combs were often fabricated in precious materials, like the gold, the silver, the ivory, the Rhinoceros frontal bones, the crystal, the hawk's-bill turtle, the tin, the jade, and so on. Combs are called "Zhi" in old times, including combs and kames: the difference lies mainly in the teeth shapes -- the combs' teeth are thicker and sparse, the kames' thinner and dense. The "Shuowen Jiezi" (Articals and Words) by XU Shen in Han Dynasty had such description: "Zhi, collective of combs and kames." From ancient till now, Chinese combs had more than 6,000 years' history, during this long period, the construction has greatly changed. From some unearthed and folk handed-down examples, combs were differently shaped in the Han (206B.C. - 220), Tang (618 - 907) and Song (960 - 1279) Dynasties: the Han Dynasty assumes a longer U-shape, with generally a utensil decorative design, together with birds and beasts in-between; the Tang Dynasty assumes the U-shape, but with a slightly extended lower part; the Song Dynasty is the crescent moon. The combs and kames were one among the eight principle hair decorations in ancient China, women often inserted a fine-arted comb in their hair buns, as a beauty fashion. In history, the famous comb-fabricators are Changzhou "Palace Combs", Fuzhou "Cow and Goat Combs", as well as Guilin "Bamboo Combs". The treatment for keeping in good health by combing the hair has long existed, thus there exists a fine alias for the combs: "Pearl in wood teeth". |