African Violet Basic Care Page 3

Don Geiss' information on leaf propagation

SETTING LEAVES

All sorts of messages go flying back and forth between VR members about how they set leaves. Our method may well be oversimplified but it works for us.

Three ounce solo plastic cups are wicked with two ply or baby acrilic yarn. Wool or cotton yarn will rot. They are filled to the brim with the same damp soil we use for potting and growing plants. The formula is repeated here. One part Metro Mix 360, one part coarse vermiculite, and one part coarse perlite.

The leaf stem is cut from a plant preferably the second or third tier from the center. A little quirk of ours is to cut the leaf below or above a flower stem that is true to the description. We have the feeling that a leaf cut there will have flowers true to color. Again there is probably no scientific proof to that but then we all have our little beliefs.

The stem is cut at a sharp angle about one inch from the bottom of the leaf. The bleeding core is facing in the same direction as the upturned leaf. A shallow hole is punched into the damp soil. It should be at such depth that the soil hardly covers the stem. This means that it is in a position where it can easily fall over or rest against the edge of the pot since the soil is so light. The leaf is propped up slightly using two cocktail pics or some similar material. Wood such as toothpicks will rot. A name stake is also imbedded at the edge of the pot at the very tip of the leaf.

We use no techniques such as soaking the leaf or placing it under a dome. In December 200 to 250 leaves are put down two for each plant whose line we wish to continue. In March when we return from Southern Texas the plants are up and most are ready to be split and potted. It should be noted here that generally there is almost a 100% catch. Putting that another way it is unusual to loose one or two leaves.

While we do not pretend to be able to explain the reason for a major degree of success using that simple technique it is possible to come up with some variables. The mix is made up of more than peat moss.(ground up burned bark, washed sand) I believe too much peat is what rots the stem because it holds so much water. Our watering system using 20 inch by 30 inch galvanized pans creats a humid condition which encourages the leaf success.

Recently we have been using the Metro Mix 360 that has had coire added. It does not seem to make any difference in the productivity of new plants.

We hear of people who are starting leaves in water. That is O.K. but we have been led to believe that it is not as efficient as leaves started in soil. . A botanist told us that the leaf is really set back if grown in water. Those who do that should pay close attention to how easily the brittle roots are broken. On the other hand when the leaf is ready for splitting those who grow in soil can easily notice how supple the roots are.

Baby plants are cut from the mother leaf whenever the spirit moves us although clusters of small leaves forming plants must be obvious before attempting to cut them apart. It does not matter whether these clusters have roots or not ., They are still planted just as a rootless leaf might be. They are immediately planted in three inch pots and remain that way until either sold or need repotting. Often we simply remove the lower leaves and trim the root ball before replanting in the same pot.

It is worth experimenting with a number of leaves in different mixes to see which is most effective in any particular environment. It is obvious that there are different successful methods for different people. Ours is what works for us.

To read more of Don Geiss', and in particular about growing African Violet babies to adult plants, please continue on to African Violet Care Page 3. Thank you!

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