We started on September 1st (Friday)
I booked us as far as Burgos (3 rooms as far as Figeac, for David, Enid and us; 2 thereafter). My main reference bookh was the marvellous 'miam-miam-dodo'.
In Le Puy, I've booked us into 'Le Bilboquet', (Logis-de-France) (04 71 09 74 24) for the nights of August 30 and 31.SEPTEMBER 1st (Day 1)(Friday):
LE-PUY-EN-VELAY (625m.) to Bains (1106m.): 15.5k (4 hours 10 minutes) Steep climb out of the volcanic crater that is Le Puy; then easier walking past villages, turning off the GR65 to Bains,and on to Jalasset. Railway station. Nearest airport: Rodez (this applies as far as Moissac, I think). Information: 04 71 09 38 41 We stayed at Mme. Pélisse's characterful and comfortable Chambres d’Hôtes. She has 4 rooms in all, and couldn't give us a meal on that evening, though she usually can. Jalasset isv 1k out of Bains, and we ate at the Restaurant Archer (no longer a hotel) (04 71 57 52 72)SEPTEMBER 2nd (Day 2)(Saturday):
Bains (1106m.) to Monistrol d'Allier (619m.): 15.5k (4 hours 25 minutes) Through fields and woods, with a treacherous descent to St. Privat d'Allier. This will be the first of the great rivers we cross, the Allier still running north. More rutted dangerous paths down the hills before Monistrol d'Allier. "A ghastly, blocky place", according to Andrea Kirkby. We are booked at the Hôtel-Restaurant des Gorges, which has 21 rooms. I have sent a €60 deposit. (04 71 57 24 50)SEPTEMBER 3rd (Day 3)(Sunday):
Monistrol d'Allier (619m.) to Saugues (960m.): 12k (3 hours 30 minutes) Information: 04 71 77 71 38 Steep climb up from the river, though fields and woods on the plateau. We are booked at the Hôtel des Tours Neuves, which has 8 rooms. I have sent a €30 deposit. (04 71 77 82 60)SEPTEMBER 4th (Day 4)(Monday):
Saugues (960m.) to Saint-Alban-sur-Limagnole (950m.): 28.5k (8 hours 30 minutes) Information: 04 66 31 57 01 Longest day so far. Passing through the Gévaudan; more hills and woods, gently undulating. We are booked at the Hôtel-Restaurant du Centre, which has 20 rooms. I have asked for demi-pension. (04 66 31 50 04)SEPTEMBER 5th (Day 5)(Tuesday):
Saint-Alban-sur-Limagnole (950m.) to Aumont-Aubrac (1050m.): 14.5k (3 hours 50 minutes) Down to Les Estrets, where we cross the Truyère river, which flows westwards into the Lot, and steeply up again through woods. We are booked at the Hôtel Aubrac, which has 8 rooms. I have sent a €50 deposit. (04 66 42 92 09)SEPTEMBER 6th (Day 6)(Wednesday):
Aumont-Aubrac (1050m.) to Montgros (1234m.): 23.5k (6 hours) We shall be on the high Aubrac plateau, hostile in bad weather. Marvellous wild flowers, great views on a good day. We are booked at the Auberge 'la Maison de Rosalie', which has 17 rooms. I have asked for demi-pension. (The Grants report it was their best meal of the entire trip.) I have sent a €52 deposit. (04 66 32 55 14)SEPTEMBER 7th (Day 7)(Thursday):
Montgros (1234m.) to Saint-Chély-d'Aubrac (808m.): 20k (6 hours 15 minutes) Information at Nasbinals: 04 66 32 50 42, at Saint-Chély 05 65 44 21 15 We're descending steeply after Aubrac, dropping 500 metres in 8k, with the scenery changing according to Alison Raju: the open plateau gives way to gorges and many more woods.We are booked at the Hôtel de la Vallée, which has 7 rooms. I have asked for demi-pension. (05 65 44 27 40)SEPTEMBER 8th (Day 8)(Friday):
Saint-Chély-d'Aubrac (808m.) to Espalion (342m.): 22k (6 hours) Information at Saint-Côme-d'Olt: 05 65 48 24 46, at Espalion 05 65 44 10.63 More steep descending through woods as far as Saint-Côme d'Olt, said to be a lovely town. Then along the Lot, whose course we shall be following for some time. We are booked at the Hôtel-Restaurant de Boralde, which has 15 rooms. I have asked for demi-pension. It is just outside the town, on our route in. (05 65 44 06 41)SEPTEMBER 9th (Day 9)(Saturday):
Espalion (342m.) to Estaing (320m.): 11k (3 hours) Information: 05 65 44 03 22 The shortest day, mostly along the Lot. Estaing is a fabulous little place. We are now booked at Hôtel Aux Armes d'Estaing, which has 32 rooms. I am asking for demi-pension. (05 65 44 70 02) SEPTEMBER 10th (Day 10)(Sunday): Estaing (320m.) to Golinhac (650m.): 16k (4 hours) A steep climb up out of the valley through woods, then rolling countryside. We are booked at the Auberge 'La Bastide d'Olt', which has 5 rooms. I have sent a €100 deposit. (05 65 44 58 44)SEPTEMBER 11th (Day 11)(Monday):
Golinhac (650m.) to Conques (280m.): 21.5k (6 hours) Information: 0820 820 803 Lots of ups and downs, and a danger of taking a wrong turning after Sénergues. Conques should be a highlight, a gem of the chemin. We are booked at the Hôtel-Restaurant Saint-Jacques, which has 13 rooms. I have asked for demi-pension. (05 65 72 86 36)SEPTEMBER 12th (Day 12)(Tuesday):
Conques (280m.) to Livinhac-le-haut (320.): 23.5k (7 hours 30 minutes) Railway station at Capdenac-Gare. Information at Decazeville : 05 65 43 18 36 Could be a tough day. Steep climb out of the Dourdou valley from Conques, then across rolling hills and down to Decazeville (famous for largest open-cast coal-mine in Europe), then a steep descent to Livinhac on a loop of the Lot. We are booked with Mr & Mme. Robertson (he's a Scot) at their Chambres d’Hôtes 'la Magnanerie'. I don't think there are any more rooms. There's a good restaurant in the village. I have sent a €35 deposit, which they will hold till we come. (05 65 43 25 56)SEPTEMBER 13th (Day 13)(Wednesday):
Livinhac-le-haut (320m.) to Figeac (194m.): 24.5k (7 hours 45 minutes) Railway station. Information: 05 65 34 06 25 We may choose to take some short cuts along the road, as the GR takes a circuitous route. We are booked at the Hôtel-Brasserie le Pont d'Or, which has 35 rooms. I have given them a VISA card number. (05 65 50 75 00) This is where Enid left us, and Richard and Nikki Dale joined, as far as Moissac.SEPTEMBER 14th (Day 14)(Thursday):
Figeac (194m.) to Cajarc (160m.): 30.5k (8 hours) Information: 05 65 40 72 89 / 05 65 40 39 07 This was the day of my catastrophe! We avoided the steep climb out of Figeac I mentioned in my notes, instead walking for 2 hours along the road (very unpopular that made me) as far as Béduer, and then through lovely forest of the 'Causse', and we picnicked underthe gathering storm clouds at Gréalou.Alice and I then decided to follow the (shorter) road route towards Cajarc, while the others kept to the GR. A kilometre along the road and I collapse, hearing a sound as if I've been hot by a stick. Searing pain. We fail to attract anyone to give us a lift, but Nicky Dale rescues us by ringing a taxi from Figeac. Information: (05 65 24 34 28) We are booked with Mme. Pezet (Chambres chez habitant). She has three rooms. (05 65 40 66 74)SEPTEMBER 15th (Day 15)(Friday):
Cajarc (160m.) to Limogne-en-Quercy (300m.): 18k (5 hours) Information: 05 65 31 50 08, and at Cahors 05 65 53 20 65 Railway station at Cahors. Walking on the 'Causse' for another day,through dense woodland, which becomes a botanical trail as we approach Limogne. We are booked at the Chambres d’Hôtes 'le Bastide-de-Lunel', which has 4 rooms. I have sent a €40 deposit. (05 65 24 37 32)SEPTEMBER 16th (Day 16)(Saturday):
Limogne-en-Quercy (300m.) to Lalbenque (282m.): 26k (6 hours 30 minutes) After some miles, in which we are following an ancient Roman route, we leave the GR, to walk down to Lalbenque. We are booked at Joëlle et Pierre Baysse's Chambres d’Hôtes 'la Vayssade', which has 5 rooms. I have sent a €64 deposit. (05 65 24 31 51)SEPTEMBER 17th (Day 17)(Sunday):
Lalbenque (282m.) to Lascabanes (180m.): 26k (6 hours 30 minutes) We remain off the GR for most of the day, and in so doing bypass Cahors (and avoid a mammoth stretch of up to 40k). More causse walking, I imagine, till we get to Lascabanes, "a beautiful village with creamy white buildings, offset with baskets and tubs of flowers which grew profusely along the narrow streets of the village", says Andrew Grant. We are booked at the Chambres à la Ferme 'le Durand', which only has two rooms. I have asked for demi-pension. (05 65 21 99 82)SEPTEMBER 18th (Day 18)(Monday):
Lascabanes (180m.) to Lauzerte (180m.): 20k (6 hours) Information: 05 63 94 61 94, and at Montcuq 05 65 22 94 04. If we feel energetic, we can visit Montcuq, a tourist hot-spot. But Lauzerte is also a 'bastide' town, and the day's walk could be a tough one. We are booked with Michel et Bernadette Reversat (Chambres d’Hôtes), who have five rooms. I have asked for demi-pension. (05 65 94 61 29)SEPTEMBER 19th (Day 19)(Tuesday):
Lauzerte (180m.) to Moissac (76m.): 24.5k (7 hours) Nearest airport: Pau (this applies to the border). Railway station. Information: 05 63 04 01 85. We drop down to the confluence of the Tarn and the Garonne, and there will be a number of 'variante' routes we can take into Moissac, the second great pilgrimage city of the chemin (after Conques). This is where Helen will be joining us.We are booked at the Hôtel des Récollets, which has 6 rooms. I have asked for demi-pension. I have sent a €40 deposit. (05 63 04 25 44)SEPTEMBER 20th (Day 20)(Wednesday):
Moissac (76m.) to Auvillar (108m.): 21k (6 hours 10 minutes) Information: 05 63 39 89 82, and at Saint-Nicolas-de-la-Grave 05 63 94 82 81. We cross the flood plain of the Garonne, after some canal-side walking along the 'canal-latéral-de-la-Garonne'. Auvillar is a beautiful town. We are booked with Jacques et Annick Sarraut at their Chambres d’Hôtes 'Cap du Pech'. They have three rooms. I have sent a €20 deposit. (05 63 39 62 45)SEPTEMBER 21st (Day 21)(Thursday):
Auvillar (108m.) to Miradoux (118m.): 24k (7 hours) Information: 05 63 94 61 94 Open, undulating countryside, with many lovely villages, châteaux etc. We are booked with M. et Mme. Thissen at 'Le Bonheur' (Chambres d’Hôtes), who have 4 rooms. I have asked for demi-pension. I have sent a €30 deposit, which she will hold until we come. English spoken. (05 62 28 69 19) Week 4 - SEPTEMBER 22nd (Day 22)(Friday): Miradoux (118m.) to Marsolan (171m.) 24k (7 hours) Information at Lectoure: 05 62 68 76 98 Another day of gentle ups and downs, with the chance to visit the marvellous cathedral city of Lectoure before we get to Marsolan. We are booked with Richard et Sylvie Musset at their Chambres d’Hôtes, who have only two rooms but can also offer a chalet to accommodate more people. I have asked for demi-pension. I have sent a €35 deposit, which she will hold until we come. (05 62 68 79 40) SEPTEMBER 23rd (Day 23)(Saturday): Marsolan (171m.) to Condom (81m.) - 26k (7 hours 30 minutes) Information: 05 62 28 00 80, and at Le Romieu 05 62 28 86 33 We again bypass a great cathedral today, at la Romieu, and can choose to visit it by taking one of the alternative routes. Condom is the third great pilgrimage city we pass.David will be staying with Neil and Pat Wright near Gondrin. Alice, Helen and I are booked into the Logis des Cordeliers. I have given them a VISA card number. (05 62 28 03 68) SEPTEMBER 24th (Day 24)(Sunday): Condom (81m.) to Gondrin / Montréal-du-Gers (174m.) - 17.5k (4 hours 20 minutes) I hope we can avoid too much road-walking today. Another night chez the Wrights for David, while Alice, Helen and I are staying with Mme Tramont at the Restaurant Le Relais Saint Jacques. (05 62 29 43 07) Information 05 62 29 42 85 SEPTEMBER 25th (Day 25)(Monday): Gondrin / Montréal-du-Gers (174m.) to Éauze (142m.) - 19k (4 hours 45 minutes) Information 05 62 09 85 62, and at Montréal-du-Gers: 05 62 29 42 85 We shall be walking through vineyards for the next few days (I think the Côtes-de-Saint-Mont). Éauze is the capital of the Armagnac, so we should enjoy this stretch. This is where Helen will leave us the next morning.We are booked with Mme. Eliane Larrouy at the Auberge de Guinlet, which has 7 rooms. I have asked if we may eat there. (05 62 09 80 84) SEPTEMBER 26th (Day 26)(Tuesday): Éauze (142m.) to Nogaro (98m.) - 20k (5 hours) Information 05 62 09 13 30 We're in the heart of foie gras territory, and we can always wash that down with floc-de-gascogne, if all else fails.We are booked with M. et Mme. Colombari (Chambres chez habitant). They have 4 rooms. (05 62 09 07 55) SEPTEMBER 27th (Day 27)(Wednesday): Nogaro (98m.) to Crabot (160m.) - 29k (7 hours 15 minutes) Railway station and Information at Aire-sur-l'Adour 05 58 06 64 64 Woodland, followed by open farmland, as we cross the flood-plain of the river Adour.We are booked with M. et Mme. Porte at 'La Ferme Crabot' (Chambres et Tables d’Hôtes), a farm some 3 kilometres beyond Barcelonne-du-Gers. They have three rooms, and I have asked for demi-pension. (05 58 71 91 73) SEPTEMBER 28th (Day 28)Thursday): Crabot (160m.) to Arzacq-Arraziguet (231m.) - 31k (9 hours) Rolling, wooded countryside, bastide villages. Miramont-Sensacq is an especially pretty village, they say. A long day, but we can cut a corner at the start.Jean, Ollie, Richard and Lisa will be flying out from Stansted to Pau today,and will be joining us here until Pamplona.We are all booked at the Hôtel-Restaurant la vieille auberge, which has 8 rooms. (05 59 04 51 31) Week 5 - SEPTEMBER 29th (Day 29)(Friday): Arzacq-Arraziguet (231m.) to Arthez-de-Béarn (211m.) 28.5k (8 hours) Information 05 59 04 59 24 A day of relatively flat walking across open countryside, with some road stretches. We have entered the Basque province of Béarn.David, Alice and I are booked with M. et Mme. Prat at 3 chemin de Peyroulet (Chambres et Tables d’Hôtes chez habitant). They have only two rooms. I have asked for demi-pension. (05 59 67 40 94). Jean, Ollie and his friends will be at Raoul Costedoat's Chambres et Tables d'Hôtes, in Hagetaubin, a few kilometres north-west of Arthez. (05 59 67 51 18) SEPTEMBER 30th (Day 30)(Saturday): Arthez-de-Béarn (211m.) to Navarrenx (125m.) - 29.5 (9 hours) Information 05 59 66 14 93 We must watch out for waymarks as far as Maslacq, then we shall be along the banks of the Gave-de-Pau for a while. Lots of ups and downs, with the first clear sight of the Pyrenees, before we enter the beautiful walled-city of Navarrenx.David, Alice and I are booked with M. et Mme. Baltar at 7, Chemin de Tuileries (Chambres et Tables d’Hôtes), in Susmiou (just beyond Navarrenx), which has 2 rooms. I have asked for demi-pension. I have sent a €48 deposit. (05 59 66 04 39). Jean, Ollie and his friends are at the Hôtel-restaurant du Commerce, which has 28 rooms. (05 59 66 50 16) OCTOBER 1st (Day 31)(Sunday): Navarrenx (125m.) to Saint-Palais (41m.) - 32k (8 hours 5 minutes) Information 05 59 65 71 78 Mixed woodland and pastoral farmland; we turn off the GR to reach Saint-Palais, at the end of what will be a tough day. David, Alice, Jean and I are booked with M. Escondeur at Etchecougnenia (Chambres et Tables d’Hôtes) in Aïcririts, just beyond Saint-Palais, which has 5 rooms. I have asked for demi-pension. I have sent a €10 deposit. (05 59 65 65 54). Ollie and his friends are booked at the Hôtel-restaurant du Midi, in Saint-Palais itself, which has 14 rooms. (05 59 65 70 64) OCTOBER 2nd (Day 32)(Monday): Saint-Palais (41m.) to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port (180m.) - 30.5k (8 hours) Railway Station. Information 05 59 37 03 57 Much hillier now, as we approach the mountains. We walk along a valley past Ostabat-Asme and Saint-Paul-le-Vieux, and across open farm land to the last town in France.David, Jean, Alice and I are booked with Mme. Juantorena at Iruleya (Chambres d’Hôtes), on the route Napoléon (on the way out of the town). She has three rooms. (05 59 37 02 84) Ollie and his friends are booked (appropriately enough) with M et Mme Camino at 15 rue de la Citadelle (Chambre chez l'habitant) (05 59 37 05 83) OCTOBER 3rd (Day 33)(Tuesday): Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port (180m.) , across the Pyrenees, out of France and into Spain, to Roncesvalles (925m.) - 29kWe have a choice of route here: either the old pilgrim track, now the main road, or the 'Route Napoléon', higher and more scenic, also longer, and to be avoided in rough weather. But I hope we can take this one, past the 'Vierge d'Orisson' till we reach a series of summits, at 1330 metres at the Col de Bentarte, and finally the Col Lepoedar at 1440 metres. After this there is another choice: a precipitous, shorter descent into Roncesvalles, or a gentler, longer one along the little road. We are all booked at the HsE Casa Sabina (24 double rooms) 948 760 01; Oficina de Turismo 948 760 301 OCTOBER 4th (Day 34)(Wednesday): : Roncesvalles (925m.) to Zubiri (562m.) 22k A less arduous day, but still plenty of ups and downs, through woodland some of the way, and past where Roland is said to have blown his horn.I hope this will be where Nick and Zillah will join us, as far as Puente-la-Reina.We are all booked at the HsE Gau Txori 7 rooms (948 304 076) OCTOBER 5th (Day 35)(Thursday) Zubiri (526m.) to Pamplona (415m.) 18k A much shorter day, crossing many rivers on picturesque bridges. Pamplona has much to offer. We are booked at the Tryp Burlada hotel, just outside the city on the way in. (948 131 300). Oficina de Turismo 948 206 540 Railway station 902 240 202 There is an airport, with connections to Madrid, Barcelona and Santander This is where Ollie and his friends will leave us, for Vitoria; also Jean, who will travel up to Biarritz Week 6 - OCTOBER 6th (Day 36)(Friday): Pamplona (415m.) to Puente-la-Reina (346m.) 26k We climb the 'Monte del Perdon', after which we follow minor roads and tracks. At Puente-la-Reina all the main pilgrim routes from France join up.We are booked at the Hotel Jakue 28 rooms (948 341 017). I had some problems booking this, which is far less expensive than I'd feared (€61 for a double), as the other hotels in town are all booked solid. Oficina de Turismo 948 340 845 OCTOBER 7th (Day 37)(Saturday): Puente-la-Reina (346m.) to Estella (462m.) 22.5k The Grants report that there was a detour while the main path was being upgraded; it was appallingly slippery, so let's hope the work has been finished. We pass through the pretty village of Cirauqui, 'Vipers' Nest' in Basque.We are booked at the Pensión San Andres 24 rooms (948 554 158) Oficina de Turismo 948 556 301 OCTOBER 8th (Day 38)(Sunday): Estella (426m.) to Los Arcos (447m.) 21k At Irache, there's a pilgim fountain, which offers good wine, as well as water. Through vineyards, along farm tracks - this should be a lovely day's walking.We are booked into the Hotel Mónaco, in the plaza del Coso, 14 rooms. (948 640 000) Oficina de Turismo 948 640 021 OCTOBER 9th (Day 39)(Monday): Los Arcos (447m.) to Logroño (?m.) 30k Another, longer day of pleasant walking, up some hills, and down the 'Barranco Mataburros' ('mule-killing gorge') into the province of La Rioja. We cross the Ebro into the super city of Logroño.Lots of places. Oficina de Turismo 941 291 260 Railway station 941 240 202 We are booked in at the NH Logroño hotel (941 519 270) OCTOBER 10th (Day 40)(Tuesday): Logroño (?m.) to Nájera (?m.) 26k We climb steadily through vineyards, across a motorway, and into the hilltop village of Navarrete, full of 'bodegas'. Then along a purpose-built footpath alongside the busy N120, past the hill called 'Poyo de Roldan', where Roland is credited with slaughtering a giant called Ferragut, hurling a boulder at him. Then into Nájera, with its mediaeval centre. We are booked into the 3* Hotel San Fernando, which offers "prix peregrinos". (941 363 615) Oficina de Turismo 941 360 041 OCTOBER 11th (Day 41)(Wednesday): Nájera (?m.) to Santo Domingo de la Calzada (?m.) 21k We climb up into woods and cross farmland as far as Azofra, and then through more vineyards and fields, with little shade, to Santo Domingo de la Calzada, the place with probably the most attractive and unlikely of all the myths along the way (the case of the boy and the chickens). We are not booked into the Parador after all; the costs suddenly became absurd. Instead we can try the Hospedería Cisterciense (941 340 700) or the Pensión Río (941 340 277). There are several other hotels, too. Oficina de Turismo 941 341 230 OCTOBER 12th (Day 42)(Thursday): Santo Domingo de la Calzada (?m.) to Belorado (?m.) 22k This will be another day when we are walking close to the road, but through a number of attractive villages: Grañon, Recedilla del Camino and Viloria-de-la-Rioja. Belorado is a lovely town under a limestone outcrop. We are booked into the Hotel Jacobeao (947 585 002) Oficina de Promoción Jacobea 947 580 226 Week 7 - OCTOBER 13th (Day 43)(Friday): Belorado (?m.) to Santovenia de Oca (?m.) 27k Good tracks through the pretty villages of Tosantos, Villambista and Espinosa, as far as Villafranca-Montes-de-Oca. From there, we are warned by Alison Raju that the route between here and San-Juan-de-Ortega is wooded and very empty. We are presumably climbing up into the Montes de Oca, as far as a monument to those killed in the Civil Way, after which we descend to San Juan. Santovenia de Oca is a short distance off the camino, along a road from San Juan.We are booked into the Hotel Sierra de Atapuerca (947 106 912) OCTOBER 14th (Day 44)(Saturday): Santovenia de Oca (?m.) to Burgos (837m.) 19k We'll rejoin the track, and go through open country to Atapuerca, with its fortress-like church. Across open heathland, with our first view of Burgos. There will be a decision to be made, whether we take the 'historic' route into the city, which entails following the very busy road for 10k, "the worst section of the entire camino", according to Alison Raju. Or we can take the alternative, slightly longer but also waymarked route via Castañares. This is a short day, and we should have plenty of time to explore this wonderful city, with its vast cathedral and El Cid memorabilia. We are booked at the Hotel Rice (947 222 300), where they have taken my credit card number as guarantee. Oficina de Turismo Municipal 947 288 874This is as far as I plan to book; again I'm being rebuked for trying to book too early. So I suggest we book once we're actually in Spain! OCTOBER 15th (Day 45)(Sunday): Burgos (837m.) to Hontanas (870m.) 30k It will take some time to leave the city and its suburbs, past allotments and irrigated crops, including Villabilla de Burgos, then through Tardajos, soon after which we level out onto the vast plateau of the 'meseta'. Past Hornillos del Camino, and away from the main road into the great emptiness. Hs Fuentestrella (947 377 261) or Casa Rural Arnaiz (947 378 521) OCTOBER 16th (Day 46)(Monday): Hontanas (870m.) to Frómista (780m.) 34k A very long day, with little shade. Castrojeriz is a fabulous town on a hill, with a great castle and the church of Nuestra Señora del Manzano. Wonderful views across the meseta should inspire us, past Boadilla del Camino, and across some irrigation canals to Frómista, another town with rich history.Pensión-Rest Marisa (979 810 023) or Pensión Camino de Santiago (979 810 053) Oficina de Turismo 979 810 180 OCTOBER 17th (Day 47)(Tuesday): Frómista (780m.) to Carrión de los Condes (840m.) 20k A shorter day, when we can avoid too much walking in parallel to the main road for some of the way.We pass Villalcázar de Sirga, dominated by its church to Santa Maria la Blanca, a National Monument. Carrión de los Condes has always been a major pilgrim stopover. Hs La Corte (979 880 138) or (cheaper) Pensión El Resbalon (979 880 433) OCTOBER 18th (Day 48)(Wednesday): Carrión de los Condes (840m.) to Calzadilla de la Cueza (?m.) 17.5k Another short day. We walk in a straight line for the entire day! Hs Camino Real (979 883 187) - the only place listed in miam-miam-dodo. OCTOBER 19th (Day 49)(Thursday): Calzadilla de la Cueza (?m.) to Sahagún (816m.) 22k We follow the 'Senda de Peregrinos', a tree-lined path, past Santa Maria da las Tiendas, at which point we shall have completed three-quarters of the route from Le Puy, and half the Spanish section! We are walking close to the rpoad all the way to Sahagún. This is another important staging point on the camino, with many important buildings. H Puerta de Sahagún (9876 781 860) or Hs Pacho (987 780 775) Oficina de Turismo 987 781 121 Week 8 - OCTOBER 20th (Day 50)(Friday): Sahagún (816m.) to El Burgo Ranero (?m.) 18k Today the path will run parallel with the railway line, and is again a purpose-built, tree-lined track which should help us move quickly across the Meseta, at its bleakest here. Hs Peregrino (987 330 069) or Centro Turismo Rural Piedras Blancas (987 330 094) OCTOBER 21st (Day 51)(Saturday): El Burgo Ranero (?m.) to Mansilla de las Mulas (799m.) 19k Another day crossing the Meseta, past the little village of Reliegos, on a stony track for much of the day.Hs El Gallo (987 310 359) or Ctr El Puente (987 310 762) Oficina de Turismo 987 310 138 OCTOBER 22nd (Day 52)(Sunday): Mansilla de las Mulas (799m.) to León (822m.) 17k I have deliberately allowed for a short day, so we can have as much time as possible in León. The walk will be more interesting. But there will be some tiresome road-walking, especially as we near the city. We are booked into the Parador (987 237 300). Oficina de Turismo 987 237 082 OCTOBER 23rd (Day 53)(Monday): León (822m.) to Villadangos del Páramo (?m.) 22k A long trail through the suburbs, and then parallel to the busy main road. 'Páramo' means 'bleak plateau', and apparently we shall soon see why. Hs Alto Páramo (987 390 425) or Hs Libertad (987 390 226) OCTOBER 24th (Day 54)(Tuesday): Villadangos del Páramo (?m.) to Astorga (869m.) 26k More of the same till Hospital de Órbigo, with its marvellous bridge, the longest pilgrim bridge in Spain, after which it's uphill across open country, away from the road, and at Crucero de Santo Toribio a great view of Astorga ahead. We are now in the wild Maragatería, in the montes de León. Oficina de Turismo 987 618 222 OCTOBER 25th (Day 55)(Wednesday): Astorga (869m.) to Rabanal del Camino (1149m.) 19.5k Some say this is the start of the most beautiful stretch of the entire camino. We are on minor roads, though small, well-preserved villages. It's worth detouring to Castrillo de los Polvazares. We climb up to Rabanal del Camino, a village that the pilgrim route has revived, and where the albergue is run by London's Confraternity of Saint James. La Posada de Gaspar (987 691 079) or HsR El Refugio (987 691 274) OCTOBER 26th (Day 56)(Thursday): Rabanal del Camino (1149m.) to Molinaseca (595m.) 24.5k Lots of climbing today, as we pass the notorious village of Foncebadón with its savage, wild dogs, and up to the Cruz de Ferro, nearly the highest point on the entire camino (we reach that a little later - 1517m). We should have superb views of Monte Teleno. Then down past Manjarin and El Acebo, and further descents till we cross the old Roman bridge, the Puente de los Peregrinos, and into Molinaseca.Casa Rural El Palacio (987 453 094) or Casa de Reloj (987 453 124) Oficina de Turismo 987 453 085 and in Ponferrada 987 424 236 Week 9 - OCTOBER 27th (Day 57)Friday): Molinaseca (595m.) to Villafranca del Bierzo (511m.) 30k Down a farm track as far as Campo, through vineyards and down to cross the old bridge into Ponferrada. This is a town full of monuments, but as this is a full day's walk, we may not be able to pause here for long. Then we shall walk across open countryside, with the mountains of the Bierzo all around, climbing quite steeply at times, dropping down into Cacabelos, once an important pilgrim stop, and again up and down into Villafranca del Bierzo. This town is where those pilgrims too weak to carry on were granted their indulgences and sin remission as if they'd gone all the way. Hs Comercio (987 540 008) or Hs Casa Mendez (987 542 408) Oficina de Turismo 987 540 028 OCTOBER 28th (Day 58)(Saturday): Villafranca del Bierzo (511m.) to O Cebreiro (1300m.) 21k This will be a tough day, even though not too long a walk, as we climb up into Galicia. We can choose, if we're energetic, to take the longer, higher and more remote route, or to follow the main road, where we're warned there can be a lot of traffic through the passes. Alison Raju warns us to get up early today, though as it's a Saturday the traffic may be lighter. The path and main road follow the valley of the Rio Valcarce as far as Ambasmestas, where it joins the Rio Balboa. Through Vega de Valcarce and steeply up to Ruitelán and Herrerías, more uphill to La Faba, soon after which we find the first of the Galician marker-stones, telling us (optimistically) that we have 153km more to go. Soon we'll be in O Cebreiro, a tiny village with wonderful houses and fabulous views if the weather is kind. Casa-Mesón Carolo (987 367 168) or Casa Frede (982 367 104) OCTOBER 29th (Day 59)(Sunday): O Cebreiro (1300m.) to Triacastela (665m.) 30.5k Today we start by climbing for a few kilometres as far as Alto do Poio (1337m.), after which it will be downhill all the way to Triacastela. We shall see our destination for some time,as we descend through As Pasantes and Ramil. Bar O Peregrino - Pensión Garcia (982 548 024) or Bar-Hospedaje O Novo (982 548 105) OCTOBER 30th (Day 60)(Monday): Triacastela (665m.) to Sarria (420m.) 21k Here we have an important decision to make: whether to walk the extra 5 or so kilometres to take in the fabulous monastery of Samos, or to take the more direct route via San Xil. I am assuming the first, and it is still only 21k. It will be an undulating route, along small tracks, till we descend to the monastery, and more of the same, through lovely country - as long as it isn't raining, to Sarria, where there's also lots to see. H Roma ((82 533 608) or H Londres (982 532 456) Oficina de Turismo 982 535 000 OCTOBER 31st (Day 61)(Tuesday): Sarria (420m.) to Portomarín (550m.) 22k Alison Raju writes that this section " is one of the quietest and most peaceful of the camino ..." Up steep streets till we're out of the town, and then down across the Ponte Aspera. Then we walk alongsode the railway line before zig-zagging uphill through oakwoods to Barbadelo. From there we cross more fields and woods till we arrive at Portomarín, a new town built after the old one was flooded.H Pousada de Portamarín (if we want luxury again) (982 545 200) or Pensión Arenas (982 545 386) Oficina de Turismo 982 545 303 NOVEMBER 1st (Day 62)(Wednesday): Portomarín (550m.) to Palas do Rei (565m.) 25k We have 14k of climbing up to the Sierra de Ligonde, and some of it will be on minor roads. Soon after Ventas de Naón, we descend to the village of Ligonde and past many more hamlets into Palas do Rei. Hs Vilarino (982 380 152) or Pensión Casa Curro (982 380 044) Oficina de Turismo 982 380 001 NOVEMBER 2nd (Day 63)(Thursday): Palas do Rei (565m.) to Arzúa (398m.) 25k A day full of ups and downs, across farmland and on minor tracks. Melide is an attractive little town. There will be many eucalyptus woods from now on.H Suiza (981 500 862) or Hs Mesón del Peregrino (981 500 145) Centro de Información 902 208 091 Week 10 - NOVEMBER 3rd (Day 64)(Friday): Arzúa (389m.) to Lavacolla (?m.) 28k More eucalyptus forests till we reach Santiago Airport and drop down to San Paio,before entering Lavacolla. Hs La Concha (981 888 390) or Hs San Paio (981 888 205) NOVEMBER 4th (Day 65)(Saturday): Lavacolla (?m.) to SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA (264m.) 12k A final short day. Up to Monte del Gozo, where there's a huge modern sculpture, marking the place from where pilgrims used to be able to see Santiago - a tree plantation now obscures the city. This used to be a quiet green area, but the Pope's visit in 1989 saw a vast amphitheatre constructed for an open-air Mass. We walk past the chapel, downhill and across the motorway into San Lázaro into the city. We are booked into the Parador, 'Los Tres Reyes Católicos', which is said to offer a free meal to ten pilgrims every day, as long as they have the 'Compostela'. (981 582 200) Oficina de Turismo 981 555 129