fukuoka, september 2001

false azure

"at the bottom of a bottle i'm a sedimental fool"

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London Fields redux...
Thursday, October 18, 2001 07:59 p.m.

While I'm on the subject of football [yet again] I also promised a couple of days ago to post an extract from Martin Amis's London Fields; specifically, the thug Keith Talent's summary of a football match between Queens Park Rangers and West Ham. So here it is:

'During the first half the Hammers probed down the left flank. Revelling in the space, the speed of Sylvester Drayon was always going to pose problems for the home side's number two. With scant minutes remaining before the half-time whistle, the black winger cut in on the left back and delivered a searching cross, converted by Lee Fredge, the East London striker, with inch-perfect precision. After the interval Rangers' fortunes revived as they exploited their superiority in the air. Bobby Bondavich's men offered stout resistance and the question remained: could the Blues translate the pressure they were exerting into goals? In the seventy-fourth minute Keith Spare produced a pass that split the visitors' defence, and Dustin Housely rammed the equalizer home. A draw looked the most likely result until a disputed penalty decision broke the deadlock five minutes from the final whistle. Keith Spare made no mistake from the spot. Thus the Shepherd's Bush team ran out surprise 2-1 winners over the ... over the outfit whose theme tune is "I'm forever blowing bubbles".'

Note the way Talent, like all good [or bad] sports reporters, single-mindedly avoids the repetition of any team or player name: thus Queens Park Rangers are variously 'the home side', 'Rangers', 'the Blues' and, finally, 'the Shepherd's Bush team', while West Ham become 'the Hammers', 'Bobby Bondavich's men', 'the visitors' and, desperately, 'the outfit [not 'team', which he's already used a moment earlier] whose theme tune is "I'm forever blowing bubbles"'

I really must reread London Fields...

and so should you...

[Not everybody likes it, though...]

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more on Peter Taylor ...
Thursday, October 18, 2001 07:57 p.m.

As a postscript to the anecdote about Peter Taylor below, I ought to add that his appointment yesterday as the new manager of Brighton & Hove Albion has a particular relevance to me since Brighton have been my 'second team' ever since they reached the F.A. Cup final in 1983 [and lost 4-0 to Manchester United in a replay, after an heroic 2-2 draw in the first game]. Though I've only ever seen them play twice [once on their return to Wembley for the 1991 Division Two Play-Off Final [lost 3-1], and once [or was it twice] away at Cambridge when they were struggling to stay in the football league], they're still the team whose result I look for straight after checking to see how Aylesbury United have done. Last season they won the Third Division title, and they're now near the top of the Second division, with pretty good prospects of achieving a second successive promotion. So, I wish Peter Taylor the best of luck, and hope that he can continue the excellent job begun by Mickey Adams.

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the second party
Tuesday, October 16, 2001 09:24 p.m.

Our last week in Japan was, as I've mentioned before, a mad whirl of parties. One of the most enjoyable was a reunion with some of the students from my communication course classes. I'd like to thank everyone who came, and particularly Mr. Sato for organising the event. Perhaps Miss Itoh should also receive a mention for the way she refused to let her enthusiasm for the party be dampened by the fact that she had exams the following morning, and for her entertaining comic double-act with Mr. Horikawa.

Here, anyway, are the photos from the occasion. Thanks again to everyone: please stay in touch, and I hope I'll see you again someday.

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Match of the Day
Tuesday, October 16, 2001 06:42 p.m.

I spent Saturday afternoon watching Aylesbury United play Atherstone in the F.A. Cup Third Qualifying Round. I can't have been to a game for at least two years, but nothing significant seemed to have changed. The crowd was smaller [500 or so, on a pleasant, warmish autumn afternoon], the price of admission had gone up [7 pounds], and there were none of the players I remembered from my previous visits, but the experience was essentially the same as before, with all the familiar rituals involved in watching football at this level: standing not much more than a metre from the pitch, half of the crowd changing ends at half-time, and occasionally witty dialogue between the players and the crowd...

The last of these rituals reminds of a game I saw at home to Hendon nearly ten years ago, when Peter Taylor, until a week ago the Leicester City boss, was the away side's player-manager. He must have been in his forties then, and so, when there was a break in play for another player to receive attention from the physio, I joined in the usual banter by shouting [reasonably politely] the suggestion that he ought to take a rest while he had the opportunity.

To my surprise, Taylor not only heard this but took exception to it, coming over to the side of the pitch to ask who'd made the comment. When I admitted responsibility, he challenged me to demonstrate which one of us was fitter, him or me.

I could perhaps have pointed out that I'd been working in a factory since eight that morning, so I might be a little tired, but it didn't occur to me and, anyway, I couldn't realistically have pretended that it would have made any difference. Instead, I apologised, and Taylor returned to the pitch to resume the game. He had the last laugh there, as well, as Hendon scored a last-minute winner to win the game 3-2.

In Saturday's game, Atherstone took the lead early in the first half after Aylesbury had briefly seemed to be on top. Shortly afterwards, though, they had a man sent off for what turned out to be the first in a series of excessively dirty challenges. Despite their numerical advantage, however, Aylesbury didn't equalise until the second half, but then swept forward and scored two more in the final ten minutes as the away side rather fell apart. 3-1, then, to United, and an away tie at Yeading in the final qualifying round in two weeks' time.

(I don't remember ever having written a report on a football match before, outside of the [wish-fulfillment] sports stories I wrote when I was a schoolboy. Doing so now reminds me alarmingly of an episode in Martin Amis's London Fields, when Keith Talent [a darts-obsessed wide-boy who I identified, when reading the novel, with the Happy Mondays' Shaun Ryder] describes a game to an acquaintance in a perfect copy of the vocabulary and idiom used in such reports, the most striking feature of which is the desperate use of synonyms to avoid repeating teams' and players' names. [I've just been looking in my copy of the book for the relevant passage, but I can't find it at the moment, so I'll have to post it later.] I often find myself doing the same thing when writing e-mails, articles or even weblog entries: just a moment ago I even made a tine change to the report above, describing Peter Taylor above as the Leicester 'boss' in order to avoid repeating 'manager' twice in a sentence.)

Enough. All I should add is that you can find a much more complete report of the game on the Ducks on the Web website, run by fans of the club, and a resource I've relied on a lot over the last three years in Japan. Ignore the fact that the report is headlined "Aylesbury 2 Wealdstone 2": it is in fact a report of the same game I attended...

[Oh, and I've posted a photo from the game here. So aren't you lucky people...]

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Come fly with me ...
Monday, October 15, 2001 09:50 p.m.

Now that I'm back on-line and [I hope] updating this page a little more regularly than I have been doing recently, I ought really to start off by filling in some of the gaps between my last proper entry [from Singapore airport] and now, nearly two weeks later.

First of all, I should say that I doubt I'll be travelling with Singapore Airlines again, even if I do [as I hope] return to Japan at some point in the future. Our first flight, from Japan to Singapore, was fine, and I was particularly pleased to be able to watch Annie Hall, one of my favourite Woody Allen films, on the TV set in the back of the seat in front of me.

However, it was the personal TV, and more particularly, its remote control, that was the reason why our second flight [from Singapore back to London Heathrow] was rather less enjoyable than the first.

Thirteen hours squashed into an economy-class seat is not generally the most enjoyable of experiences. With something decent to watch on TV, though, the time can pass fairly quickly. In fact, having seen the list of films and programmes scheduled for our second flight, I was almost looking forward to it.

What I hadn't anticipated, however, was that for more than half the flight, the TV wouldn't be working, and that when it was finally repaired, the screen would go blank and have to be reset at approximately five-minute intervals. To make things worse, the fault was somehow related to our remote controls, which just refused to work, with the result that not only could we not use our TVs, but we also couldn't turn our personal lights on and off, or call for assistance. So, once the main lights were turned off, we had no option but to sit in the dark for six hours and try to get some sleep.

Needless to say, the complimentary Singapore Airlines bag we were given on arrival at Heathrow, containing a pack of cards, a carry-bag, a stuffed toy and a postcard seemingly showing two stewardesses being leered at by a male employee didn't really make up for the experience. Cathay Pacific next time, I think...

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back in the u.k. etc.
Wednesday, October 10, 2001 10:10 p.m.

just a short note, in case anyone was wondering, to say that i am still alive, and will be updating shortly..

[and replying to e-mails, too... [gomenasai!]]

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live and direct from Sinagpore airport
Wednesday, October 3, 2001 09:37 p.m.

Just a quick note to anyone who's following our journey that we're now in Singapore airport awaiting the second, 12-hour leg of our flight home.

Singapore airport is one of the best we've visited, with free internet access to anyone with a laptop. They even lent me a wireless LAN-card for free, and the installation disk.

We're both feeling pretty tired, though, and will probably sleep for most of the remaining flight. Anyway, for the moment, hello and thanks to anyone who came to see us off this morning. We will miss you all!

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farewell from the Fu
Saturday, September 29, 2001 04:36 p.m.

Apologies for the woeful lack of updates over the past week or so, but I've been pretty busy, as you might expect, with all the paraphenalia involved in moving: packing, planning and, more pleasantly, attending farewell parties.

I've got a whole host of pictures to add to the site, but for the moment here are some from Wednesday's lovely party hosted by the staff and proprietor of the Gallery Fu, Fukuoka's finest pottery emporium.

There'll be more pictures from the other parties to follow. Honestly...

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and yet more football...
Friday, September 21, 2001 10:07 a.m.

While Inamoto's competitive career in England finally appears to be getting started, things don't seem to be going too well for Japan's highest-profile player, Hidetoshi Nakata, according to this report from the Asahi Shimbun.

Nakata, who moved earlier this summer from Italian champions Roma to the slightly less elevated Parma, has failed to play to his potential so far this season. His new team have yet to win a game in the Italian league, and were knocked out of the Champions League qualifiers by the unheralded Lille.

Personally, I was astonished by Nakata's decision at the end of last season to abandon the Japanese national side just before their appearance in the final of the Confederations Cup against France, in order to sit on the bench for Roma, particularly since he was Japan's captain and star player. Though there were reports that this was the result of a pre-arranged deal between him, Philippe Troussier [Japan's coach], and Roma, I wonder whether I may not be the only person to feel little sympathy for him now when he appeared to abandon his team when it needed him most.

Troussier, interestingly, also seems a little narked at Nakata, according to quotes from this report:

"I want to consider him [Nakata] just as one of the group who are potential starting members, meaning 14 or 15 players," added the Frenchman ... "For me he is not a superstar. He has been a key player in the past but we have won matches without him, and this is not enough to assure the future."

It's probably just bluster on Troussier's part, but it would be interesting to see how Nakata might react to being dropped from the national side...

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Return of the shamisen
Friday, September 21, 2001 09:41 a.m.

Though my essay-marking marathon threatens to move into a second-week, I have now at last moved on from the pile of essays about Western influences on Japan, completed the set on Japanese fashion, and am now working through a group of essays on Japanese music.

Highlights from these essays will, I hope, follow [once I've got permission from their writers], but in the meantime here's an article from the Daily Yomiuri suggesting that a traditional Japanese instrument, the shamisen, appears to be finding new popularity among yougn Japanese people.

Coincidentally, one of the essays I marked yesterday complained about the lack of attention paid to traditional Japanese music in Japanese school education. So perhaps this piece might actually reflect a genuine grass-roots growth of interest in such music rather than the usual spurious record-company fluff. Then again...

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And while we're on a football theme...
Friday, September 21, 2001 09:30 a.m.

Apparently, Junichi Inamoto finally made his competitive debut for Arsenal last night, hopefully scotching the [rather unpleasant] suggestions that they'd bought him solely for financial reasons.

Inamoto came on as a second-half substitute for Arsenal in their Champions League game against Schalke 04, in the third victory in a month for English sides against their German counterparts.

Unsurprisingly, though, Inamoto's debut wasn't such big news in the UK press: the Guardian report didn't even mention him...

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post-match photo-opportunity
Friday, September 21, 2001 08:33 a.m.

We're now well into our final fortnight here in Japan, and the farewell party season is now in full swing. Last night we joined my soon-to-be former colleagues here at Kyudai for my departmental farewell party, which was a fun, but slightly sad, occasion.

Earlier in the day, I'd made only my second appearance at a Faculty meeting to give my farewell speech in Japanese, where my faltering learnt-off-by-heart sentences were greeted with a generous and perhaps sympathetic applause. It was embarrassing to realise that my Japanese had scarcely developed at all since I'd made my equally incompetent introductory speech nearly three years before.

[Embarrassing, incidentally, being one of the few words whose Japanese equivalent ["hazukashi"] I've learnt...]

Anyway, I'll probably post some more photos from the party in the next few days, but for the moment, here's the final group photo, with everyone arranged as in a pre-match football team photo, right down to the front row squatting, or on bended knee. All it needs is the addition of a football, and some football kit, and this could be the team photo for the Kyushu University English Department first eleven [plus substitutes].

More seriously, though, I'd like to thank everyone who came last night for all the kind things they said, and for being so friendly and helpful over the last three years. I shall miss you all.

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More on David Mitchell
Wednesday, September 19, 2001 11:14 a.m.

Reviews of "number9dream" from the UK Guardian and Telegraph, plus an interview in the Independent...

[Oh, and a Japan Times review of Mitchell's earlier novel, Ghostwritten.]

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HotLitNews
Wednesday, September 19, 2001 10:52 a.m.

David Mitchell's Number9Dream has been included on the shortlist for the Booker Prize, according to this BBC report [which, typically, concentrates entirely on the "big-names" of McEwan and Carey, and barely mentions Mitchell].

Mitchell currently lives in Hiroshima, teaching English to business students, and his novel is set in Japan. The BBC Newsnight Review describes its plot as follows:

"number9dream tells the story of 20-year- old Eiji Miyake's search for the father he never knew among the teeming landscape of modern day Tokyo. Along the way he moves from his capsule home to the rainy southern island of Yakushima via encounters with organ harvesters, the god of thunder and John Lennon, whose song lends its title to the book. It is a novel in nine surreal sections, beginning with multiple openings, and ending with a missing dream."

There was quite a buzz about the book when I was last back in Britain in March, and I picked up a copy, but I have to admit that it's still in a pile of unread novels by the side of my bed. Notwithstanding the fact that I am of course, entirely jealous of Mitchell, who is only 3 years older than me, this news ought to motivate me to do two things:
[1] remove the novel from the pile and actually read it.
[2] finally start writing the novel I've been planning for the last year or so.

The chances of either of these things actually happening are probably rather smaller than the chance of Mitchell winning the Booker, but anything is possible, I suppose...

[To listen to Mitchell read an extract from his first novel, Ghostwritten, click here.]

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link, link sunshine...
Wednesday, September 19, 2001 09:15 a.m.

Hooray! GBlogs, a portal for "UK-based weblogs", has linked to this site. Now I might actually get some readers...

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setting sun...
Tuesday, September 18, 2001 12:48 p.m.

On Sunday afternoon our good friend Noriko suggested we drive to the outskirts of Fukuoka to see the sunset from the beach. Despite the traffic, we did just reach the beach in time, and I was fortunate enough to get some quite nice photos, of which this is the first...

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Is Japan still the future?
Tuesday, September 18, 2001 12:34 p.m.

More from last month's Wired on [unsurprisingly] Japan. This brief introduction to the feature divides the country into two distinct aspects: the failing Japan whose economic decline is mirrored by social and political collapse, and the metaphorical Japan "that represents hypermodernism in all its dimensions, from advanced technology to individual alienation to urbanization run amok."

Other articles discuss Japan's mobile phone culture, and give "10 reasons why the sun still rises in the East."

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My Own Private Tokyo
Tuesday, September 18, 2001 11:52 a.m.

The Japanese, you see, have been repeatedly drop-kicked, ever further down the timeline, by serial national traumata of quite unthinkable weirdness, by 150 years of deep, almost constant, change. The 20th century, for Japan, was like a ride on a rocket sled, with successive bundles of fuel igniting spontaneously, one after another.

They have had one strange ride, the Japanese, and we tend to forget that.

This brief history lesson from William Gibson was published in last month's Wired, in an article which has just become available on the magazine's website [there's a one-month gap between material appearing in the magazine and appearing on the website, for obvious reasons].

It's Gibson's second article about Japan in the last six months [the other, published in the [UK] Observer's "Japan issue", is available here].

I'm still, regrettably, less than halfway through marking the small mountain of essays I mentioned a few days ago, but there's an interesting parallel between those essays and this article. Both Gibson, writing about Japan's technological future, and several of my students, in essays discussing Western influences on Japan, emphasise the fact that the country's passage through the past one-and-a-half centuries has been accelerated by two specific events: Perry's landing in the mid-1850s, and the American occupation of the country after the end of the Second World War. As one of my students proudly writes: "Japan caught up a 220-year time lag in only 130 years."

Gibson's take is that "Japan is still the future", and that the Japanese have "made it out of the tunnel of prematurely accelerated change". My students are more concerned with whether their country will be able to maintain its individual character in the face of globalisation. As ever, I find myself caught between Western representations of Japan as a fetishised future, and Japanese perceptions of a culture under seige.

[By the way, I see that Tokyo Tales, another [but rather better] J-blog written by a UK national, has linked to the Gibson article before me. Still, who cares, since it gives me an excuse to link to an interesting weblog written by someone whose taste in music [prominently displayed in a sidebar on the main page] overlaps significantly with mine. Next time I update the site, I'll add a link to my own, less informative, sidebar.]

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[i]FAQ
Monday, September 17, 2001 06:43 p.m.

I've just added an [in]frequently asked questions page to the site.

Since no-one's actually asked me any questions yet, it's understandably sparse...

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New pictures...
Monday, September 17, 2001 06:23 p.m.

As part of the reorganisation of the rest of this site, I've just added some more pictures from the end of term party in July. [At last...]

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Public service announcement...
Monday, September 17, 2001 06:11 p.m.

All the on-site links [to photos, etc.] should now me working. Please let me know if they're not...

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This isn't a link either, but...
Monday, September 17, 2001 05:49 p.m.

I'm currently tweaking the design of this page, and reorganising the site as a whole, so some of the on-site links may be down for a short while. Apologies to anyone stumbling across the site...

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This isn't a link either...
Saturday, September 15, 2001 01:12 p.m.

... By the way, if anyone does actually happen to be reading this, please check out the links in the column to the left [some of them actually work!]. I don't have access to site statistics for this page [the 'weblog'], so I can only tell if anyone's been reading it by checking out the statistics for the other pages. Alternatively, you could always sign the guestbook...

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This isn't a link...
Saturday, September 15, 2001 12:53 p.m.

After nearly two weeks of getting nothing done, least of all keeping this weblog updated, I'm now finally trying to get back on top of things. This morning I restarted marking the 30-odd thousand-word essays I foolishly solicited from my students at the end of last semester, a task which I expect to take up most of today and tomorrow [at least ...].

I'll need an occasional break, though, so I should be updating the site on a piecemeal basis over the next few days [or, more realistically, over the next week or so]. There'll be some major changes, for obvious reasons: after all, I've now got fewer than 20 days left in Japan, so I need to think about what purpose I want this site to serve, and whether I'll keep it up after I leave Japan.

Anyway, I'd better get back to my essays. More later [but I've said that before...]

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Dog accessories go through the 'woof'
Monday, September 3, 2001 10:45 a.m.

Masami Kato, 29, of Kawasaki, dresses up her beagle Lucky in a Louis Vuitton collar and leash. When she walks her dog, she makes sure she herself is carrying around a Louis Vuitton handbag.

``It's called total coordination,'' she says proudly.

Further conformation of the madness that is Japanese pet fashion, from today's Asahi Shimbun. With Hermes "doggie-bags" costing upward of 175,000 yen [about 2000 UK pounds], the dog in last week's picture begins to seem rather frumpy.

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sleeping on the job
Monday, September 3, 2001 10:04 a.m.

Next time you're on a long Japan Air Lines flight and you lean back to have a nap, it would be nice to know that the pilot and co-pilot aren't doing the same thing.

Alarming news from Japan Today...

When we first came out here we flew with JAL, and were lucky enough to be upgraded to business class, which made our flight exceptionally relaxed. Had we read this piece of news beforehand, however, we might not have felt so calm...

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this isn't a link...
Monday, September 3, 2001 09:47 a.m.

Apologies for the lack of updates over the weekend. Supra-normal service will be resumed, etc..

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what goes around...
Friday, August 31, 2001 06:13 p.m.

According to the Daily Telegraph, the inventor of the conveyor-belt sushi bar Shiraishi Yoshiaki died on Wednesday at the age of 87.

In his honour, then, today's Photo of the Day comes from one of my few visits to such a place here in Japan. [As a vegetarian, I tend only to go to such places when we have guests from abroad.]

Though the conveyor-belt tends to remind me alarmingly of the time I spent working in a factory, it does add a touch of excitement to proceedings, particularly if your view of the belt extends quite some way from your own dining-place. If you can see something potentially delicious heading towards you, the anxiety of waiting to see if it will get to you before it's gobbled up by someone else, makes the dining experience rather tenser than your average meal.

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i don't understand this at all...
Friday, August 31, 2001 04:54 p.m.

[from the mainichi, of course...]

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on the coast
Thursday, August 30, 2001 05:18 p.m.

Today's Photo of the Day is a view of the coast of Fukuoka, the city where we've lived for the past three years. Just inland from the sea, and high above the outskirts of the city runs the expressway, the tollroad by which we came from the airport on our arrival in the city.

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two from two million
Wednesday, August 29, 2001 06:21 p.m.

According to figures from the LA Times, today's photo of the day features approximately 0.00009% of those eligible to attend the recent Suzuki summit in Torigoe.

So far as I know, though, neither went.

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Japanese exports increasing?
Wednesday, August 29, 2001 10:18 a.m.

It looks as though a third Japanese player, Yoshikatsu Kawaguchi may be about to join Junichi Inamoto and Akinori Nishizawa in the English football leagues.

When I watched Japan play Cameroon in the Confederations Cup this summer, Kawaguchi seemed an excellent goalie, singlehandedly keeping his team in the game with some excellent saves, so it must be a little disappointing for him that he's moving [if, indeed, he is] to a club outside the English top division. He may, however, stand a better chance of actually getting a game there than his two compatriots, neither of whom has yet played a competitive minute in England this season.

Anyway, I wish him luck if he does sign for Portsmouth. Perhaps I might even get to see him play when I'm back in the country.

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The sacred tree
Wednesday, August 29, 2001 09:44 a.m.

This post is dedicated to a colleague of mine who, right from our first days in Japan, has been unceasingly helpful and kind, and who is even now busy planning our departure [in the nicest sense].

The story I've linked to above, from the Los Angeles Times, was, by [once again] coincidence, reprinted in today's Japan Times. It shouldn't be too hard to guess why I've linked to it, or what my colleague's name is...

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the cupboard is bare...
Tuesday, August 28, 2001 06:08 p.m.

Within hours of our arrival in Fukuoka on a dark and rainy evening in September 1998, we were welcomed to Japan with an evening of yakitori and karaoke. And on our way to the street which hosted both the yakitori and the karaoke house, we passed a convenience store.

Japan is full of convenience stores. Depending upon the route I take on my eight-minute journey to work every day, I pass between three and five of them. The majority are part of big chains, of which perhaps the most prominent is the Lawson; others seem as though they might be independent. Most are open for 24 hours each day, selling the customary papers, magazines, food and drink that you'd see in convenience stores all over the world, along with, often, a wealth of other items you might not expect to find...

The store we passed that evening turned out to be the closest to our apartment, and so we went there often - whenever we'd run out of an essential item for that evening's meal, or if we just fancied a snack or a drink. And though our Japanese skills [particularly mine] were so poor as to preclude sustained or detailed conversation, we came at least to recognise the staff, and they us.

About a week ago, we noticed that the shelves were becoming emptier, that there were notices written on the doors, and that everything seemed to be at 30% off. As the shelves gradually emptied over the next few days, we decided to ourselves that one of two things must be happening: either the store was about to be refurbished, or it was closing down. Eventually, having despaired of understanding for ourselves what was written on the notices, we asked what was going on.

It turns out that the store is closing down today. I didn't find out why - whether it's just another symptom of Japan's much talked-about recession, or something else entirely - but it seemed to heighten our sense of our own time in Japan coming to an end, in the novelistic way that otherwise unconnected events can sometimes seem to reinforce each other's meaning through a coincidence of timing.

Today's picture of the day, then, is of this store on its last-but-one day, when most of its shelves were now completely bare, and only newspapers and magazines on sale. By the time I get home from my office later this evening, it may already have shut its doors for the final time. Even though we too will soon be gone, we shall miss it.

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not related to the article below...
Monday, August 27, 2001 04:06 p.m.

Today's photo of the day is, for once, not related to anything I've written on this site, mainly because I didn't particularly fancy going out into the streets to find something to illustrate the article linked to below.

Instead, here's what should be rather a soothing picture of Zao, a ski resort we visited earlier this year. In the top right hand corner you should be able to make out the main beginners' ski-slope.

Normal service will be resumed, etc., tomorrow.

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strange men on the streets
Monday, August 27, 2001 03:46 p.m.

One Saturday afternoon in the concourse of JR Utsunomiya Station, a young man sits on a light green cushion, face to face with a girl wearing a short skirt and platform shoes. With the clumsy sounds of street musicians echoing in the background, the man crosses his legs and says to the woman, ``Look into my eyes.''

He then grabs a brush and starts writing words with Japanese ink on washi (Japanese paper). After receiving the paper, the girl's eyes widen, she pays a small sum, shakes the man's hand and leaves the area with a smile across her face.

The 19-year-old street performer, Tadanori Matsudo, who prefers to be called a rojo-nin (street person), has just completed a deal in what has become a growing business in the economic slump: He has written a cheerful message to a total stranger.

This is from the Asahi Shimbun, which used to be one of the daily English newspapers here in Japan until it stopped publishing earlier this year, apparently in order to concentrate on its on-line edition.

Still publishing are the Japan Times and the Daily Yomiuri, both of which are pretty good [and free] in their on-line form.

There's also the more tabloid-orientated Mainichi Daily News, which I mentioned a few days ago: worth a look if you're interested in the seedier side of Japan.

[I'll be back to the longer-winded entries tomorrow: promise!]

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postscript...
Sunday, August 26, 2001 02:39 p.m.

Today's picture is by way of a postscript to the sentences I quoted from the New York Review of Books article a few days ago. You see scenes like this everyday here in Japan, as traditional old houses are torn down and replaced with parking lots, at first, and finally apartment blocks. Here, it's particularly sad to see that the van carrying the rubbish skip is parked on top of the tatami mats that would once have made up the house's floors.

This picture was taken in April. I'll go back to this spot in the next couple of days to see what it looks like now. I may post a picture, too.

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dog & cycle-baskets
Saturday, August 25, 2001 06:00 p.m.

"Japanese love their pet dogs, so they do all kinds of things with their pets. Most importantly, their pets are treated as part of the family like a young son or daughter. For example, small children are not left alone at home; they accompany their parents. Similarly, Japanese pet owners put their dogs in their cycle baskets and go everywhere with them. Sometimes, the traveling is for errands and sometimes, it is for pleasure."

The above passage comes from the textbook I used with my writing classes last semester, Jane McElroy's Write Ahead: A Process Approach to Academic Writing.

Though the book turned out to be a rather patchy guide to English prose, its grasp of Japanese culture is sounder, as today's photo of the day should illustrate. Over the past three years I've lost track of the number of dogs I've seen precariously perched in bicycle baskets or sticking their heads out from shoulderbags. I've seen kittens in bags on the beach, and hidden in handbags on the subway. And just as every Japanese mobile phone seems to have a chain of tiny characters attached, so almost every dog has some sort of pretty-pretty accessory strapped on.

The dog I saw hit by a car on the main road near my office looked just like the dog in this picture.

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corporate makeover
Saturday, August 25, 2001 11:27 a.m.

It's only day four, and already there's a completely new look: soon I'll have had more redesigns than readers...

Anyway, the white text on a black background was beginning to look more amateurish everytime I looked at it. A brief survey of other logs would seem to suggest that such colourschemes are exclusively the preserve of teenage anime fanboys and girls: hence the redesign.

Comments [as if] to the message board.

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riverbanks & concrete
Friday, August 24, 2001 03:02 p.m.

In lieu of a full-length entry today, I'll just post a few Japan-related links.

"Everywhere you go in Japan, there are highways, railways, roads, tunnels, dams, and bridges, some of them without any discernible purpose. Riverbanks are encased in concrete and so are mountains and hills. Sixty percent of the Japanese coastline is encased in concrete."

from an interesting article by Ian Buruma in the New York Review of Books, which has recently improved its website immensely by ending its maddening practice of dividing all its articles into 8-10 individual pages.

Buruma is reviewing Haruki Murakami's book on the Tokyo subway gas attack of 1995, along with another book about the "Dark Side of Japan" by Alex Kerr, whose ongoing dialogue with James Fallows on a similar topic can be found on the Atlantic website.

I'll write something more detailed in a week or two about the way in which every article on Japan published in the Western press, no matter how perceptive or intelligent, has to mention at least three, and generally more, of the following subjects: teenage girls, hair-dye, the recession, Uniqlo, the subway system, salarymen, love hotels and ultra-hi-tech gadgetry. For the moment, though, I'll just point you in the direction of the New Statesman's take on the Japanese economy which, at a quick check, uses only three of these cliches [but it is quite a short article].

Finally, I really ought to link to my favourite source of tabloid, sleazy news here in Japan, The Mainichi Daily News. I've been reading it for a while now, enjoying its guide to all the news that the higher-brow Japan Times doesn't bother with [especially the "tales from the tabloids" round-up WaiWai], but now it appears that the excellent Caterina, whose weblog is one of the few "personal" weblogs really worth reading, has also somehow discovered it - why, I don't know, since it's not the sort of thing you come across if you're not connected with Japan. Anyway, her post on the matter is delightful, and should be read forthwith.

That's enough for now, except to remind you about the Photo of the Day, which today ties in with the quote from Ian Buruma in the NYRoB. Adieu.

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The Besto Rental Store
Thursday, August 23, 2001 07:21 p.m.

Last night we stayed at home and watched a video: Ken Loach's Riff Raff. Pretty much everything I'd heard about Loach had made him out to be a director whose work I'd expect to find interesting and provoking, but the only previous film of his I'd seen, 1996's Carla's Song, had rather disappointed me. Though sympathetic to its attitude towards the situation in Nicaragua, I'd found the film's politics overly laboured, and rather unsuccessfully integrated with its storyline.

There are probably plenty of places online where you can read far more incisive, and better-expressed, criticism of the failings, or otherwise, of Carla's Song, so I won't pursue the matter. If you strongly disagree with me and want to take the matter further, you can always mail me about it. Anyway, we were actually watching Riff Raff more because of Robert Carlyle than out of any particular desire to give Ken Loach a second chance. And, for the record, we rather enjoyed it.

I mention Riff Raff only really to introduce the subject of today's entry: video rental in Japan. As someone who fits embarrasingly neatly into the 'sensitive English graduate' cliche of preferring European art-house cinema and US indie movie-making to your general Hollywood blockbuster fare, I've never really bothered with rental stores in Britain. Unless you want to watch the latest Robin Williams film, you're wasting your time there, and anyway, for eight years I was fortunate enough to have a local public library well-stocked with art-house classics.

British rental stores resemble Japanese ones in much the same way that Jeffrey Archer does Dostoevsky: there may be some superficial similarities between the two [both writers, both imprisoned], but the latter possesses infinitely more variety and far more depth.

Where my local rental store in Britain might possibly have a single copy of Betty Blue, the opening minutes worn virtually bare through repeated viewing and the rest pristinely unwatched, my local store here in Japan probably has a whole shelf devoted to Jean-Jacques Beineix. The copy of Riff-Raff we watched last night, for instance, could have been located either in the store's Robert Carlyle section [not just The Full Monty and Trainspotting but also Priest, the excellent Go Now, and, bizarrely, a complete collection of Hamish Macbeth], or in the Ken Loach corner [Raining Stones, My Name is Joe, and Ladybird, Ladybird, among others].

I don't mean to suggest that Japanese video stores are a paradise of art-house delights. They too have shelf-upon-shelf of Proof of Life. It's just that these stores are so massively stocked that simple economies of scale seem to ensure that for every twenty copies of the latest Meg Ryan vehicle, there's bound to be a copy of some obscurely golden Billy Wilder rarity, or the latest masterpiece of small-scale French domestic intrigue [the fact that I can't generally understand these because they're only subtitled in Japanese, not English, is hardly the stores' responsibility: you can blame my schoolboy French for that]. And that's not to mention the fact that they also rent out audio cds, both singles and albums, almost immediately after they're released for sale. So today's photo of the day was taken in our favourite local rental store [there are 3 within walking distance of our apartment]: the appropriately-named Besto. And tonight, assuming I've finished setting up the links for this in time, we'll be watching Loach's "Raining Stones"...

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more photos [1]
Thursday, August 23, 2001 11:46 a.m.

This isn't strictly a new entry, but I thought I ought just to draw attention to the fact that the "Photo of the day" isn't the only photo on the site. The pictures on this page are from a very enjoyable end-of-term party I was kindly invited to a month ago.

They've been on-line for a couple of days now, but the link's been rather hidden away in the right-hand column.

I'll be adding more pictures in day or two.

[Oh, and the new Photo of the Day" will be up later today. Honest.

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'irasshaimise', or 'welcome'
Wednesday, August 22, 2001 04:54 p.m.

Whenever someone comes to stay with us in Japan, we always make sure to show them an episode of The Simpsons. This isn't because The Simpsons is a particularly Japanese phenomenon, though the family is currently featured in advertisements for CC Lemon, a popular carbonated drink.

It's because one of our favourite episodes of The Simpsons involves a visit to a sushi restaurant. Marge and Lisa have for once persuaded the rest of the family to be a little more adventurous in their eating habits, and so the whole family [Maggie included] turns up at the "Happy Sumo". As they walk through the door of the restaurant, the family is shocked when the staff welcome them by shouting, loudly and enthusiastically, "irasshaimise". After the hostess explains to them that this is simply the Japanese way of greeting customers, Homer responds by bellowing "Hello" back at them.

When we first arrived in Japan, Jessica and I were as surprised as The Simpsons by the fact that waiters, waitresses and shop assistants everywhere would seem to shout at us whenever we entered their establishments. Now, after nearly three years and endless 'irasshaimise's, we're used to such a welcome, but it can still unnerve those unaccustomed to Japan, which is why we show our guests this video.

This message is intended as an 'irasshaimise' to this weblog, "Forty Days in Japan". I'd like to welcome any readers, Japanese or Western, however they have reached this site, and whether they know me or not. Over the next forty days I'll be writing about my experiences in Japan, with photographs and links to relevant websites, as I have in this posting. I'll be updating the page [and the Photo of the Day] everyday, so please come back often to see what's new. If you have any comments, please feel free to add them to the message board or e-mail me at [email protected] [cut out "REMOVETHISPART", of course].

That's all, except to explain why today's Photo of the Day is of the Nishijin branch of Book Off, a well-known chain of stores selling used CDs, computer games and books. Of all the places we've visited in Japan, probably the loudest and most alarming "irasshaimise" we've heard has been in this store. We don't know whether it's Book Off company policy to try to deafen customers as they walk in the shop, or whether the staff are simply very enthusiastic, but this is now the only place in Fukuoka where we still jump in surprise when we enter. For that reason, this picture of the entrance of Book Off Nishijin [taken last night, just after someone had entered the shop] is today's Photo of the Day.

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this isn't really a link
Wednesday, August 22, 2001 07:59 a.m.

This weblog is now, officially, open.

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