JOURNAL 2003
The excitement started before we even left home. Robert, who owned the yard where we had left the boat, emailed that the boat wasn’t in perfect condition; it made white smoke and had uneven cylinder pressures. We consulted Vaughan at CBL from whom we bought the boat, who suggested that this wasn’t unusual for these older boats, due to glazing of the cylinders. Since we had a programme to catch up to, and after talking again with Robert, we decided not to do the major overhaul now, but at Beaucaire next winter. We have a confirmed reservation at Beaucaire.
So, as usual overloaded, we flew via Los Angeles, London Heathrow to Amsterdam, leaving on June 27 with all exams marked! And Lorna has worked her last day for pay!!!
June 29, Sunday
We’re here, but just. It was the most awful trip we have made. Arriving at LA on time at 11 am, we had to clear customs, collect our bags and re-check them and then proceed to another terminal and re-enter security. By 3 pm we were waiting for our 5.30 departure, eating the picnic nibbles QANTAS had given us. At 5pm we were all ordered out for a security threat, and congregated out on the road, gradually gathering our flight in a group ready to re-enter. At 6.30 we were allowed in and 2 hours later, 3 hours late, we flew out to London Heathrow. 150 including us, on the flight were late for their connections. We rebooked on a later flight to Schiphol, but missed it because we couldn't find the check-in. We had to spend the night in an airport hotel and ventually we left at 7.40am for Amsterdam where we found our four pieces of baggage hadn’t been loaded at LHR!!
After 2 hours we booked a train-taxi to Loosdrechte, and were waiting on the platform when Owen phoned us to find our plans. He was also at the airport on the floor above us! So we all travelled here to the boat.
Poor boat. It looked tired and forlorn after the winter, but we were exhausted. We had lunch at a café across the road, were treated to a visit by our Dutch friends who we had met last year and who had visited NZ in our summer. They left some food that was most welcome, as all Dutch shops are closed on Sunday. A little unpacking and tea also at the café, then an early night.
June 30, Monday
We both had a bad night, worrying how long we may have to wait for our bags. We ate our donated food for breakfast, oiled the bikes and pumped the tyres before setting off for the supermarket about 3 to 4 km away. Then it was cleaning and tidying. Owen and Ian worked on the electrical system, finally admitted the charger was stuffed and bought a new one from a nearby shop. It’s working happily now, which gives us some confidence. We haven’t started the engine yet. And there is no news of the baggage yet, but we are looking forward to a visit from Yvonne and the girls. We had some rain today
July 1, Tuesday
It was fine to start with and we did our laundry. It had just dried when we got heavy rain; enough to prove we hadn’t fixed a leak in the windshield! The Intres arrived in the middle of a thunderstorm and we crowded into the cabin and ate lunch. They are all well, and the girls fast becoming young women. We hope to see them again in a couple of weeks in France. Still no word of our suitcases, and it’s impossible to get through to them. We will try again tomorrow morning.
We started the boat this evening and ran it on the lake for a few minutes. Although it is smoking a bit, it seems to be running more smoothly. Then Ian emptied the diesel from the jerry-cans into the tank; we have 100 litres ready to get us to duty free Belgium.
July 2, Wednesday
Rain at first and a phone call from Owen's son Peter in UK to tell us he had been told that BA have 1 bag in Amsterdam, 1 in LHR and will send them when they find the other two. He had instructed them to send them immediately, but wasn’t confident. Meanwhile we spent the day on maintenance. We had some ideas about ballast under the starboard bunk to level the boat. One idea was old batteries, and we found a dump by the next boat yard. After initially approving, they changed their minds for conservation reasons – we might empty the acid into the lake or canal! Tonight the power went off and we had difficulty starting the inverter after its winter break! It’s going now so I can write this. At least we will test our household battery life!
July 3, Thursday
Ian rang the airport and they had two bags that they agreed to deliver. They turned out to be Ian’s case and the flat package containing pre-cut furniture! No sign of Lorna’s suitcase (and her medicine). We rang the airline again and changed the delivery address to Owen’s son’s base near Brussels and set off south in light occasional drizzle. It was a pleasant trip across the Plassen (lake) and up the Vechte to Utrecht, slowed by having to wait for bridges to open (3/4 hour at one) but we found a nice mooring above the lock, for the night. There was some noise at night and in the morning two lads took the plunge in front of the boat. Maybe it was their shower!
July 4, Friday
Again we rang the airline and one more bag has been found in LHR. We hope its Lorna’s and not the awning frame, which certainly hasn’t been needed, since we came! It was overcast as we passed through the bridges of Utrecht and on over the dreaded Amsterdam-Rhine Canal. A piece of cake! We had our timing better.
We started our laundry, as we continued over the Lek River and turned off the canal for an hour of supermarket shopping and lunch. We used the free water supply to top up. As we approached Meerkerk Lorna commented on a quiet buzzing noise and Ian and Owen searched the cause. Eventually we looked at the engine and found oil leaking from the rear of the rocker cover. The oil level was at the bottom of the dipstick!.. We filled it up and continued on to Gorinchem, where we sought help and were offered advice (It was just 5pm). Using the advice, and after discussion with Owen’s son (a skilled mechanic) on the phone we removed the cover, found the gasket intact, replaced it and re-tightened the cover, using a couple of washers as packing. It seemed OK after a short run into town, where we have moored and eaten our tea. Lorna and Ian walked down to the dyke to look at the Rhine!
July 5, Saturday
All seemed OK with the motor and we went down the lock on to the Rhine. There wasn’t much traffic coming downstream (we were going up) and we worked our way slowly through the upstream traffic over 2 km and turned off after 3 km. After a couple of hours we stopped the engine and checked to dipstick. All was OK! On to the Maas and upstream to the Zuid Willemsvaart Canal. A notice in Dutch prompted a question over the intercom as to whether the canal was open to Belgium. "No". Two locks were shut for work.
So a rethink; first to continue up the Maas, but when Lorna suggested returning down the Maas and using the back canals to enter Belgium though Antwerp, Ian readily agreed, as he had preferred it to start with! If all goes well, we may make Brussels on Tuesday, up to time.
So now we are at the start of the Markk Canal for the night, the bridge closing 25 minutes before we arrived. It opens at 9am tomorrow and we have a couple of bridges, which only open on the hour! So we will have to see if we can pass it in the day.
July 6, Sunday
We started our laundry, as we continued over the Lek River and turned off the canal for an hour of supermarket shopping and lunch. We used the free water supply to top up. As we approached Meerkerk Lorna commented on a quiet buzzing noise and Ian and Owen searched the cause. Eventually we looked at the engine and found oil leaking from the rear of the rocker cover. The oil level was at the bottom of the dipstick!.. We filled it up and continued on to Gorinchem, where we sought help and were offered advice (It was just 5pm). Using the advice, and after discussion with Owen’s son (a skilled mechanic) on the phone we removed the cover, found the gasket intact, replaced it and re-tightened the cover, using a couple of washers as packing. It seemed OK after a short run into town, where we have moored and eaten our tea. Lorna and Ian walked down to the dyke to look at the Rhine!
July 5, Saturday
All seemed OK with the motor and we went down the lock on to the Rhine. There wasn’t much traffic coming downstream (we were going up) and we worked our way slowly through the upstream traffic over 2 km and turned off after 3 km. After a couple of hours we stopped the engine and checked to dipstick. All was OK! On to the Maas and upstream to the Zuid Willemsvaart Canal. A notice in Dutch prompted a question over the intercom as to whether the canal was open to Belgium. "No". Two locks were shut for work.
So a rethink; first to continue up the Maas, but when Lorna suggested returning down the Maas and using the back canals to enter Belgium though Antwerp, Ian readily agreed, as he had preferred it to start with! If all goes well, we may make Brussels on Tuesday, up to time.
So now we are at the start of the Markk Canal for the night, the bridge closing 25 minutes before we arrived. It opens at 9am tomorrow and we have a couple of bridges, which only open on the hour! So we will have to see if we can pass it in the day.
We have got to Antwerp!
It was another grey day. After checking the oil level and finding it satisfactory, we entered the lock at 9am sharp, hurried to the bridge which opens each hour, only to find it was 3.5 metres head height so we hadn’t a problem. There were no hold-ups to the end of the canal, which took 4½ hours, and we continued through another lock with dozens of Sunday sailors, on to the Volkerak (a part of the Rhine) for 13 km before curving south on the Schelde-Rhine Canal, which was much larger than we had expected.
This widened as it crossed a stretch along side the Schelde, though a huge lock 9 km before the border, then almost 3 hours to negotiate the huge Antwerp docks. We ate a Lasagne as we travelled, and arrived well pleased at the entrance to the yacht-harbour and hour before the next bridge lifting. We moored outside, had a small beer and went to bed for a good night’s sleep.
July 7, Monday
After yesterdays clear run, today was a bit disappointing. We left at 9am waited for a bridge to rise at 9.15 and then queued to enter the lock to the river. We were asked for our Antwerp Port number, which we knew nothing about. So we had to use the VHF to register! But we hadn’t refuelled but when we reached the river, we saw a yacht club that sold diesel. We now have 320 litres aboard at €0.40.
As a result of this delay, we missed the tide up to the first lock and after struggling against the ebb, moored for 2 ½ hours until the tide slowed. A passing boat made such large wash that it threw our cups on the floor and Owen to the deck, so we decided to move on.
At the next lock we had almost 3 hours wait, but about six large boats and several pleasure boats moved up and down each time. It is now 9.10 pm and we are up the last lock, heading for the Brussels Royal Yacht Club harbour for the night. It will be about 10.00pm, but we will be ready to receive Lorna’s suitcase in the morning. It is difficult to plan with tidal waters and big locks. It’s a matter of luck.
July 8, Tuesday
What a day! After Ian stocked up at the local supermarket, we caught the tram to Midi Station and then a train to Aalst to meet Peter Benson with the rest of our luggage. After lunch and talk at an Irish Pub, we caught the train back to Midi Station, left the luggage there and took a tram to Bourse for a sightseeing walk around this lovely city. After seeing the Market Square and the Royal Palace we had dinner at a Greek restaurant, before collecting the huge luggage, dragging it on to the tram, and carrying it into the marina. So now we have all we packed! It was a weary trio who climbed into bed after 10.30.
July 9, Wednesday
We slept in till 9am and rose to see all the other boats had gone. After breakfast, Ian headed off to the supermarket again, and it was 11.00 before we got away. We have stayed here 2 nights with water and electricity and no one has called for a fee!
It’s been a gorgeous day and Ian and Owen had their shirts off as they did three loads of laundry which dried almost as quickly as they hung it out! We had lunch on the run as we went up 7 locks and 36 km smoothly. After the first, they were all waiting for us and each took us up about 8-10 metres. We decided to go the foot of the Ronquieres Inclined Plain and wait for the morning, but as we came round the corner and saw it stretching up the hill, a lock full of boats emptied. After we entered with 1 diesel tanker and 9 pleasure boats the guy in the boat ahead of us commented on our luck. They had left Brussels early, and waited here for much of the day for their turn and we had turned up and filled the last space with-out a minute’s wait!
Anyway, the lift is fantastic. A counter-balanced tank full of water with boats floating in it, is towed 1.5km up the plain a vertical distance of 75m. It takes about 50 minutes including time to open and close the end doors. The scenery is spectacular as we all walk around on the substantial footways, chatting and taking it all in.
As the next lock closed at 7, we are all moored in a pond at the top of the lift. The spectacle continues as we are probably 30 metres above local ground level and we look out over all the countryside.
So, a glass of beer or wine, and a quickly prepared ham and veggies later we are all feeling in fully relaxed mode after the problems since we arrived. Until yesterday none of us had been enjoying them, but these last two days have been different.
July 10, Thursday
Another glorious day. We did some maintenance at the mooring before leaving. The manual bilge pump is now operating and we have removed the switch for the automatic bilge pump for repair or replacement. The oil levels etc are still OK so we are confident of a satisfactory repair to the leak problem. So at 11.30 we set out, later turning into the Canal de Centre where we stopped for lunch. We were confused as to which canal to take for a moment as we arrived at the recent diversion to the 73 metre high Ascenceur. This massive water and boatlift has only opened in the last 10 years, and contains two lifts 112m x 12m. We shared it with a tourist boat. Both of these lifts were built because of a shortage of water on the top plateau for operating locks. Note the top entrance, and the almost 75 metres we have come down.
Two more normal locks and we arrived at Mons which we intend to explore tomorrow. In the meantime, tonight we have had to put up with the wash from many jet skis. Also Ian has started to fit the stainless frame we brought with us to support the canvas canopy. With the sun we are now getting we need the shade in the stern deck!
uly 11, Friday
Ian rode into town for a fresh baguette for breakfast and later we took a taxi in to see the sights. It was a long walk, which finished at a supermarket, before ordering another cab to go home again. We were a little disappointed at how little was highlighted about the 1914 British defence here, but much more was available on the 1944 freeing of the town, but I guess liberation is more welcome than being used as a 'last stand'. At 3.30 we left our shaky port and headed west, where we first moored in a small inlet and getting shaken around a bit. So we have shifted across into a tiny canal with no traffic.
July 12, Saturday
It was a lovely mooring, but we couldn’t buy a baguette for breakfast, so after meusli and toast we left for the end of the canal and stopped for lunch at Péronnes Yacht Club. It was a glorious day and we appreciated the shelter from our newly erected awning. We were guided around the corner to a bunkership at Antoing, a little upstream, where topped up with Belgian low tax fuel before heading up the Escaut into France.
It was a slow trip to Condé and we grounded lightly once as we tried to ease the motor by keeping out of the current! We are now moored just above the lock at Fresnes waiting for Bastille Day fireworks two days early!
July 13, Sunday
We watched the fireworks, which were an exposition of the region’s history with the best use of laser lights I have seen.
When a large boat passed or mooring this morning, for some reason the slipstream was so strong it broke a mooring rope! No other damage, and that rope is now in another less stressful position.
This morning we checked the steering box, which we will look at again at the end of the season. Also we tried again without success, to remove the flange over the thermostat. So we still don’t know if this relates to the apparent overheating of the engine.
We continued upstream in the afternoon and have moored below the lock into Valenciennes where we will have to stay for two nights as the locks are all closed tomorrow for Bastille Day.
July 14, Monday (Bastille Day)
Ian checked the town for a supermarket for a quick stock-up tomorrow morning. He also brought back some bottles filled with drinking water at the local railway station. We have tried without a lot of success several ways of detasting the water, the best of a bad lot being the in fridge without a top. There is jetski racing above the lock and some very skilful acrobatics. One did a full double spiral and then jumped a 1-metre float.
In the evening, we walked into the Place d’Armie, had dinner and listened to the entertainment, then followed the crowd back to the canal where we watched more fireworks. Huge expenditure, though difficult to see a theme as we had two nights before.
July 15, Tuesday
The canals were open again, though we had a 2-hour delay at the start, waiting for a series of big boats to come down the lock. After 15 minutes, we stopped for a hasty restocking at a supermarket next to the canal. It was a glorious sunny day; we stopped for lunch under a motorway bridge and rose up 6 large locks usually shared with large freight barges. At the last one we had a bit of excitement. At the last moment we were directed to follow a barge into the lock and moor behind him. We hadn’t realised that this lock had a different VHF frequency than the others, so got no response. Unfortunately the barge wound up his motor and Ian couldn’t hold the boat against the current, just as the lock started to fill. For a few seconds we were pushed around in the lock and came to rest against the barge, which we held on to! Then the lock-keeper asked for our papers. At first Ian though this was for a report, but it turned out to be a routine reporting lock!
After this we turned off this main freight route into France and on to the St Quentin Canal. This was a cake walk as we returned to standard French locks and no traffic. The lockkeeper followed us down to Cambrai where we are moored in the port for the night.
Six English boats winter over here and three of them were still here, though ready to go. The canal is about 10 blocks from the town centre.
July 16, Wednesday
Baguettes for breakfast, and Ian headed off on his bike for a new cylinder of LPG. Then we pumped the last of the tainted water out and filled with fresh from the port. AT 11.45 we left for the tunnel, but half an hour later we found a lovely shaded mooring for lunch. Unfortunately, this broke our sequence and we lost 2 hours getting into it again! So tonight we are 1 lock short of our destination and will need to rise a little earlier to reach the tunnel at 9.00 am. We had a light thunderstorm during the last hour of today’s cruise, but it cleared this evening. This is a lovely canal, with easy automatic locks through this historic old battlefield.
July 17, Thursday
Up about 7am and prepared breakfast, but followed the other boats through the locks about 8am. We were last to arrive, which suited us fine and as we tied ourselves together, with the peniches at the front and the smaller ones at the rear, we were last boat. I am sure this made it easier to steer in the tunnel when we all had no engines to assist the rudder. We had to oversteer, but all went well. We used one mooring rope to make a bridle across the stern of the boat in front and threaded it through the eye on another which w fixed to the bow cleat. Easy. It took 2 hours for the electric chain hoist to tow us through the 5.6 km tunnel at 3k/h and there we no problems. However we spoke to the unhappy crew of a wooden boat, which had towed up earlier and they had had damage by being towed against the wooden sides, which caught.
The day cleared, as we locked down to St Quentin where we stern
moored on to a pontoon. A Belgian couple who had assisted the mooring invited us to
drinks, and then we did a few jobs on the boat. A lovely couple are the port guardians.
July 18, Friday
After a delightful breakfast of French bread, we caught a bus into town, had a coffee and beer bin the town square which has truckloads of sand, a lovely swimming pool and a real beach feel, inspected the Basilica which is simple, but huge and spectacular and read our emails in an internet café. Then we bought pastries and sat outside a brasserie and had them with beer or wine. Lovely.
Then a bus ride home, and some work on the bicycles. They are now white and Ian’s has working 3-speed gears again. Yvonne from the next boat joined us for laughter and drinks until it cooled about 10.30 and we went to bed.
July 19, Saturday
Up at 7am, showers at the port, and Ian made some train reservations at the station when he got the bread. Owen was ready at 10, with an offer of a ride to the station and we headed out for a couple of days on our own before Michael and Sorella arrive.
But has it been hot!? It was over 40ºC, and at 8.30pm it is still 32º out and 35º in. We coasted down the St Quentin Canal into the Lateral de l’Oise to Chauny. But we couldn’t arrange to watch the All Blacks thrash the ‘Boks at about 3-5pm – we got the score on the BBC this evening. We can get the BBC on the MW here.
July 20, Sunday
It was an easy run down, first the Lateral de l’Oise canal, and then the Oise itself to Compeigne. We are now on the same mooring where we were joined by the Pougnets four years ago and have found a convenient ATAC supermarket for a shopping expedition in the morning.
July 21, Monday
The larder is stocked and Ian bought a new automatic bilge pump switch, paint for the deck and fittings to make the electrical supply safer. At present if the cable is plugged into the supply before connecting to the boat, the live terminals are projecting at the other end. The stern deck has had a coat of paint and looks great. We want some cool weather to do the other decks and repaint the stern. Ian met Sorella and Mike who crossed by Eurotunnel to Paris Nord then train to Compeigne. A great chat and a walk around the centre ville then bed. And also they told us some exciting news we are not allowed to tell anyone else about for a couple of months!!!
July 22, Tuesday
Three boulangeries were closed and we bought our bread at a supermarket! Then away about 9.30 on a glorious day. We stopped for lunch above the second lock. These locks are quite large and we shared them with three peniches. Now since 3.20pm, we have been stopped above Creil lock, which has a door that won’t close.
It opened at 6pm and we have moored 1 hour later on a private mooring (for a local cruise boat) at Boran sue l’Oise. A beautiful, clear, still evening and a powered paraglider flew over a few minutes ago. Mike and Sorella have gone for a bike ride to check out the town.
July 23, Wednesday
Away at 9am, a couple of the locks were a bit slow and we decided to have lunch on the move. We weren’t sure how the current on the Seine would affect the travel time. We passed Pontoise and Cergy and then the mooring we stopped at on our first year, by the Pougnets. Then passed all the big boats at Conflans including Marjorie, which we realised this time was a non-powered barge!
The Seine seemed huge and we seemed slower, but to our surprise we made the 8 kph we had hoped for and moored on a pontoon in a boat club at Frette (9 km up the river) An hour later a huge pleasure boat flying a Dutch flag arrived. A Lyon man had taken delivery of it three weeks ago and was taking it home without a crew! His family were malade, but were meeting him tomorrow. Mike and Sorella had a short bike ride and then Ian joined them for a walk up the steps to the station and shops.
July 24, Thursday
We only travelled 1½ hours today, and are at Marley la Port, a few km from Lois (Ian’s sister) and Philippe’s. They will get us at 6pm (someone has to work!) And we are to stay the night with them. Its not a proper mooring, in a quiet loop, tied to a tree between a couple of peniches. There is no wash from fast travelling big boats.
In the meantime we have stopped a couple of diesel leaks (resoftened the washers at the diesel filter by heating and quenching, and tightened a couple of other unions on the diesel line), and connected the new switch for the automatic bilge pump. I hope to send this off tonight, or at least find my problem
July 25, Friday
I didn’t manage to solve the email problem, nor the time to phone xtra. But we had a great evening with Lois and Philippe. He delivered us to the boat and we left port about 9am. Soon through Bougival Lock, and first north, around past St Denis and south to Sureness Lock with a couple of large boats, and then into Paris, magic with the small Stature of Liberty, Eiffel Tower, all the bridges, Grand Palace, the two Islands with Notre Dame above us and into the Arsenal Port de Plaisance about 4.30 pm.
So now we are stern moored on a pontoon, and have met two Aussies Bruce and Jane Arthur on Prince Kanga, an ex CBL Prince Class boat they have owned about 3 months.
Mike and Sorella shouted us to a lovely dinner, Massif style.
July 26, Saturday
It took a while for Ian to find a baker and he arrived back to find all full with meusli etc. Then they left and we tidied the boat and used the port laundry facilities. Then we rushed to a café to watch the Aus v All Black game, only to find it is a delayed telecast at 5 pm. Dave and Helen Gregan arrived in time for lunch and we shopped at a Monoprix and then made it back to watch the game. Great to watch a game we won! Especially sitting with 4 Aussies!
July 27, Sunday
We had some difficulty finding bread this morning – shops shut on Sunday and preparations for the last day of the Tour de France. Then we prepared for take-off, had lunch and waited at the lock to descend to the Seine. But it was caput! And when we were offered a free night in compensation, we reberthed and walked up to the Bastille to watch the Tour de Paris part of the Tour de France. A bit of fun to be part of Lance Armstrong’s celebration for his fifth win.
Then Dave and Ian checked out the internet at a café. We got a couple, plus a disk so we can use a café later if we can’t get IPASS to work. We met Bruce and Jane and they joined us for tea in the stern of the boat.
July 28, Monday
We got away at 9.30 and headed up the Seine, had lunch above Abalone Lock (in which the current near the front of the lock caught us unawares, and Ian had to let go the line, allowing us to be floated by the current back and against the large boat beside us. No bad effects, except to pride!
We stayed the night at Port des Cerises, a development in an old sandpit with a glorious children’s park through which we biked to Intermarché for stocks. A lovely evening.
July 29, Tuesday
A bit of drizzle from time to time today. We continued up the river, with almost 2 hours delay at Vives Eaux lock, and about 5 pm arrived at Melun, where we moored in the small stream, opposite the prison, where we have stayed before. A kind optician repaired the hinge on Lorna’s specs free of charge, and after dinner we walked up to the centre of town. It has lovely pedestrian mall shopping and traditional place and mairie. Under the arches during the day were bundles of bedding, which was occupied at night.
July 30, Wednesday
Better weather and we continued passed the fabulous houses on the south-west bank, passing up 3 locks, eventually mooring at St Mammes, a port usually full of commercial boats, but this time almost empty. It must be a good season. We were told by the local boat shop and hirer that although he was busy with local hirers, most companies had only 7-8 weeks of bookings and several hotel boats were tied up for the season. So the US anti-French attitude has hurt. Unfortunately the water we topped up with has tainted our tank for drinking so we will need to use our supply of bottled water until we replace it.
July 31, Thursday
We came up the Loing to Moret, one of our favourite towns and weren’t disappointed. Ian was interviewed for radio as a visitor! Bad French and all! He also replaced the hose fitting he left in Paris and got a circlip washer which means the new gear control on the bike now functions properly. After exploring the town and eating lunch we moved up the first lock and the ladies shopped for food and Ian and Dave put 140 litres into the tank from the supermarket, using the bike trailer to transport it. We will probably get to Chalon and the convenient le Clerk’s with that. Then up one more lock and moored using some corkscrew style pegs for leashing dogs. Dinner tonight was one of Lorna’s great surprises, including duck gizzard salad!
August 1, Friday
The pegs were a success until a loaded peniche passed about 8 am. The pegs just held but were bent. We have decided they are excellent for day mooring, but we will moor on bollards for the rest of the way, at night. It is a beautiful day and we have done 4 locks and moored under a bridge for lunch. We have tied to the bridge struts overhead! And it’s lovely and cool!
We were entertained by a small steam loco and train, by the canal, starting small fires and towing a small train. Then we continued to Nemours where we ignored the port on the river and continued down a lock to moor in the shade on a bollard on the canal-side. A beer to settle and after dinner a short walk through the town, especially admiring and old palace by the river.
August 2, Saturday
We walked with Dave and Helen to the station to see them off for Paris and also to refill our drinking water bottles. Then we had a lazy day; Lorna finishing her book and Ian finishing the pre-cut bookcase he brought over from NZ. It still needs staining. The temperature is up to 40ºC!
August 3, Sunday
We tried to ring both Margaret and Gerald and Bill and Marjorie, but both were too busy talking to get through! Then we left in hot sunshine, met a sleek modern Hotel Boat, Le Tigre Rose with a NZ captain, temperatures going over 40º most the afternoon. We did 3 loads of laundry and stopped for lunch at a small halt at Souppes sur Loing where the water tasted OK, so we pumped the tank empty and refilled it. Off at 3pm and moored about 5.30 at Cépoy, again free with water and electricity, though rather barren and exposed to the sun. But we were buggered and rested well before having ham and salad for tea.
Then as we were cleaning up, Tee, Quentin with Tam, Finn and Tate from Wellington NZ, but currently residing in UK stopped to talk and joined us for coffee. We recovered much quicker and arranged for them to join us for a couple of locks and 8 Km tomorrow.
August 4, Monday
Up at 8, a quick breakfast and check of the engine (which still uses more oil than we would expect, so retightened the tappet cover screws again) and at 9 we with our extra crew we entered the first lock behind a modern French launch. They stayed one more lock and walked back while we continued to lovely Montargis, where we are now moored in full sun, drinking a lot of water and planning to visit a bricolage nearby and buy some hardware items. At present the thermometer measures 48º outside and 39º inside. Lorna gets a spray of cool water from time to time!
We didn’t get any bricolage, but bought a new car radio to replace he old one that was eating tapes! Ian started installing it, but gave up in the heat. We ate a salad meal under a shady wall and have got some bad news from our Dutch neighbours who have told us the canal de centre closes on August 18. If true we are back to double mileage each week and will have to change the meeting points for two of out visiting groups! Off to bed and get more info tomorrow.
Tuesday, August 5
Three more bottles of cordial from the supermarket including a new variety – peach – like cold tea, peach flavoured and very quenching. But great news from the VNF when they opened at 9 am. A new message indicates that rain a couple of weeks ago added two more weeks to storage, and that the centre section of the canal will close 1 Sept, allowing us to maintain our slower rate, without changes to meeting places.
In high temperatures we continued up 6 locks, lunched under some trees and reached Montbouy where new moored under some convenient trees and from time to time took a cold shower. In the evening two older peniches modified to hotel boats joined us. Some kids had a quiet party near the boat but stopped about 11pm.
Wednesday, August 6
The hot weather (a heat wave in Europe, breaking temperature records), cold showers were essential and other boat crews took to the canal. We stopped for the night on the right bank as we entered Rogny, Les Sept Écluses, opposite the port, but later moved the boat into a hire boat port with space so we could have dinner at a convenient restaurant. The highlight here are the seven locks built in 1610 and used until the end of the 19th Century
Thursday, August 7
We made a 9am start and with help from a boy on the hire boat with us who walked up and caught our ropes in the 4.5m locks, we climbed the 6 locks to the summit with its swampy lakes, which feed the canal, and later descended 6 locks to stay in Ouzouer sur Trezee, a free port with electricity and water. In return for making room for a hotel boat, 3 of us received a bottle of Aligote, a local white wine. The topless crew on the boat moored astern were a distraction!
As we entered the town we chattered with an Englishman, John Dowd who lives in a modernised lock auberge with his wife Ina from Manchester. Later he arrived at the boat with a pile of paperbacks to exchange for some of ours. So now we have reading for a while! After our dinner, we accepted his invitation to visit his house and arrived back about 11pm – a late night for us.
Friday, August 8
Still hot, the crew behind us had slept on the cabin top last night. After a later start at 10am we arrived before noon at Briare, in time to check the Tourist Office for shops etc. We are now moored under some large trees and may shift in the evening. We reckon this is the nicest canal we have completed. Except for the heat!
Saturday, August 9
Lorna hardly slept and when she got up in the morning had a dizzy spell and collapsed on to the bed and later vomited – terrible rash with itches. No hospital so off to convenient doctor, who after an hour in the cool waiting room and our bad French and with her little English prescribed an antihistamine ointment This ran out But the pharmacy repeated. She had a miserable day with the heat though the reaction was reduced. A nice couple on the French boat in front lent us a fan.
Tony arrived on the train at 8.30pm and we hitched a ride from the station for him! Great to catch up on his news.
Sunday, August 10
Another bad night for Lorna and Ian and Tony saw the doctor as they went for bread. She gave us a special appointment at 12 noon and then prescribed tablet antihistamine, which appears to have reduced the problem and prednisone, both of which she supplied. The French couple, on the boat in front of us, have lent us a 230V large fan which has been marvellous. We are to report tomorrow morning and see her Wednesday before we can leave. Just time to hurry to Nevers for Friday.
Monday, August 11
Good news. Lorna feels a lot better and the doctor agrees that if this continues we can leave tomorrow. It is still hot and forecast all week the same. Tolly and Jas are concerned they may get empty canals near Nancy! We cycled up the hill and stocked the larder, but couldn’t buy a fan so will have make do with the small noisy 12V one.
Tuesday, August 12
We’re away! Lorna feels almost normal, though it’s still hot. Up 2 locks from our mooring, turn right into the canal and back through the commercial port to the famous aqueduct. Lots of photos. It is spectacular with plenty of room and its electric lighting. The canal continues on at the same level for 20 km. We tied under a bridge foor lunch and stopped for the night in the shade of a grain silo in Lere. The temp went to 42ºC (108ºF)(in the shade) during the day! Lots of driinks and dinner after 9.00pm.
Wednseday, August 13
Much like yesterday, we had lunch under a couple of trees at St Satur, and waited 2 hours for Intermarché to open at 3pm. We stayed the night at free mooring at Herry, discussing the problems of security over red wine until 11.15.
Thursday, August 14
We awoke to clouds overhead, which turned to thunder, but no rain on us. Still it was nice to move without the bright sun. At 4.30 it is only 32ºC! We had lunch below Marseilles sur les Aubigny and called on Nigel Orr who has a boat available to charter, and who contacted us through our website.
The lock up to the aqueduct over the Allier was 9.2 metres in two lifts, with little to tie to. We were fortunate that we were alone and used the stepladder to hold on to. We stayed the night on the canal side in the shade, where it was still nearly 35º.
Friday, August 15
A short drive into Nevers, the temperature still high and we moored about 11 am in the port, which is adjacent to the town’s swimming pool. We had enjoyed Tony’s company and he caught the 1 pm train to Paris and possibly London. Then Ian met his cousin Adrienne at 4.30. We all went into the town for sightseeing and dinner. We were attracted to a Brasserie in the square, but then were lured upstairs by better prices and were impressed by the environment. But after waiting 20 minutes for the menu, moved on to another! Great day and lots of family gossip
Saturday, August 16
Adrienne left on the 10.35 train and Wayne, Judy and Spencer arrived at 1.00pm. We had a quick lunch and adjourned to the same brasserie that we rejected last night to watch the All Blacks beat the Aussies in a game to close! One of Lorna’s great dinners finished a lovely day. Also we had a bit of cloud today and a swim in the local pool, all of which helped make us feel more human. Ian rang Crown Blue in Decise to arrange for a mechanic to check the oil leak.
Sunday, August 17
Off again, a quick run down to Decise, and we left the canal and passed through the two locks on to the Loire River to moor by the Bar by the old town. A lovely spot and Ian found he old fishing rods for Spencer and a French mate to try their luck (none of course!). The planned barbecue was interrupted slightly by a light thunderstorm that showed a few leaks!
Monday, August 18
At 9.00 we left the mooring, back up 1 lock to the Crown Blue base. The workers were all busy, but offered guidance and Ian changed the gasket himself. The boss checked it, advised on a couple of other items and all was OK. Meanwhile the others had topped up at the convenient Intermarché. Ian removed some of the screws on the window trim, filled the holes with clear silicon sealant and replaced the screws. We’ll have to wait to see if the leaks are stopped! Then we returned to the mooring, did a few messages, checked email and rail reservations and enjoined a lovely evening on the river. It was cooler today. Below 35º.
Tuesday, August 19
Still cooler and it rained lightly this evening. No leaks showed up so we hope heavy rain will have a similar effect! WE had lunch under a tree and Ian tried a new method of securing the mooring ropes using a 6-inch G-clamp clamped on to the top of sheet piling for each rope. Simple, quick and probably won’t be pulled off by a peniche!!!??
We stayed the night at Gannay Sur Loire, and walked the 1.5-km into town.
Wednesday, August 20
Overcast start, then sun and later cool cloud, maximum 35º. We had lunch at Garnat sur Engievre and an exploration party returned with a bag full of lovely blackberries! Then we continued to Dompierre sur Besbre on a side canal for the night. We stocked up the larder at a local Marché-U and also exchanged the empty gas bottle for a full one.
The meals are special with chefs alternating each day! Tonight it was barbecued kebabs, roast fancy potatoes, veggies and then Blackberry pie. And we again have BIB wine which has been of a consistent standard (we only buy 12+%)
Thursday, August 21
Another sunny day. A lock keeper said tomorrow and the next etc! We
locked and reset the Max/Min on the thermometer. Inside Max 41.5, min 15.4 (bliss!) and
outside 51 and 11ºC. However today it has been a more comfortable 32º. The countryside
is parched and dry.
We had a ring from Owen and Mary today, and they met us for lunch at Diou where we moored under some large trees for two hours. Great to see them on their European tour by car.
We had our worst lock keeper in 5 years today. He ignored us when we got to the lock, was ok about opening the gate, but the yelling started when we started to close it. On being asked he agreed other boats were coming, and yelled at the crew as they misunderstood his requests. Eventually we saw what he wanted, but not his methods. The other boats arrived and comfortably we completed the lock. The others today have been charming and so have we!
After lunch we continued up the locks and over the magnificent viaduct into Digoin, the pottery town. It was a glorious evening and we wandered back over the viaduct after a late dinner. We could see large fish in the water, lit up by the bridge lighting. The mooring before the main street is free and much more attractively located than the port de plaisance.
Friday, August 22
A couple of larger boats passed us while the others used the internet, and we left at noon. We tied up an hour later before the first lock, under a shady tree. The lock keeper walked down and told us that we would need to wait until 2.30 unless another boat arrived to share the lock. This suited us, none arrived and we locked on at 2.30, arriving at Paray le Monial about 3.30. It has water and electricity and it appears no one calls for the €5 fee!
It is a lovely town and the basilica is the church of origin of the Sacred Heart movement. There must have been a big function last weekend, as a number of huge marquees were being dismantled. We checked the internet, had a beer in town and went out to a restaurant for a lovely dinner.
Saturday, August 23
Up at 6.15 am, a quick breakfast and we headed back a couple of streets to drop the Raymonds off for their train trip to Tours, before stocking up at the convenient Intermarché and topping up with 2 drums of diesel. Then back to the mooring where we have done three loads of washing and are about to report to the next lock at 2.30! All part of the water saving process in this section of the canal. We must be through to St Leger before 1 Sept as it may shut then.
After lunch at 2.30 we reported to the first and as no other boats were waiting, in brilliant sunshine continued solo into Burgundy, past an attractive Digoin Chateau and moored at an attractive pond at Genelard.where a French boat doubled up their electricity so we could have a socket. Too hot for cooking, so we had a pizza.
Sunday, August 24
Another hot day, and we left at 10 am with lockkeepers following seeing only one boat, a Brit, passed through Montceau les Mines with its huge closed steel plant and reserve power station and cooling tower and lifting bridges to the first of the automatic locks. Because these filled from the side it caused a spiral effect, making it difficult to exit easily. We finished at the top pound and moored on the side just after Ocean Lock, both a little stressed!
Monday, August 25
After a cycle ride to the supermarket in Montchanin, Ian pumped the engine bilge nearly empty and disposed of the oil and diesel at the nearby VNF depot. Our leaks cost us in oil and diesel, and we hope we have fixed the diesel one, but the oil will continue a bit until St Gilles at the end of the season. Then we motored to the other end of the pound and moored almost under the TGV line in the shade. Ian cleaned and painted the cockpit area, which looks great now. Also he stained the new bookcase. We returned ½ a km to get away from the TGV noise for the night.
Tuesday, August 26
Back to our shady spot where Ian painted the side decks and Lorna
continued tidying up. We booked the lock for 13.00, but somehow the message was confused. The lockkeepers quickly righted their error and at 1.45 we started our rapid drop down the
7 locks, most of which are 6 metres with sliding bollards. 
This
is the section which is suffering from water shortage, but with more boats going west than
east, we haven’t needed to double up. It was still a hot day (up to 38ºC) but we
continued until 6pm when we reached one of our favourite moorings at St Leger. The
lockkeeper recommended mooring after the port on the left in the shade. Great advice as it
is very pleasant. We enjoyed our showers.
Wednesday, August 27
We like this town and are staying until Friday morning. We shifted to the Southern bank in the morning for shade and free electricity and water. Ian did two loads of washing while Lorna biked to the supermarket. Then cleaning up and some work on the insulation panels. He had to buy a new tube for his bike, as the NZ valve was stuffed and they don’t sell them here. We chatted with some Brits on Curl Curl who had moored at Lattes when we did, others on Frieslan, a Dutch barge and a French couple we have met several times on a Belgian registered new plastic boat, Ediacara Heiress. And all parked again on the left bank in evening shade.
Thursday, August 28
We slept in and shifted sides again and after applying an overnight brainwave to fasten the insulation panels tidily, Ian finished the fitting for the stern shade. Meanwhile Lorna cleaned and prepared for Chris an Annabel tomorrow. Then we accepted an invitation to drinks with André and Annicla Collot on Ediacara Heiress. At the moment we are watching a mild thunderstorm which has brought the first rain for months. The work on leaks Ian did in Decize has helped, but one small one remains to fix. But the process of removing all the screws from the window surrounds, filling the hole with silicon and rescrewing seems worthwhile, so we do the same to all windows. (But see Sept 24 re Sikaflex 291)
Friday, August 29
We left St Leger at 9 am and went down the last 4 locks, past Sentenay halt and along the 19-km pond to Chagny, a nice port with water, but no electricity. While we waited Ian removed, sealed and replaced the screws from one side of the left windshield where we have had bad leaking. It was an overcast day and rained heavily as we returned from the supermarket. No leaking by the windshield!
Chris and Annabel arrived by train about 5.30 and after tea we had an early night.
Saturday, August 30
C & A went by train to Beaune and we continued with housework.
When they returned we motored back to Sentenay, where we had more rain. The cool weather
is great, though we are feeling it a bit at night.
Sunday, August 31
Two trips to the village. The first for a variety of breads and the second to explore and take a degustation. We bought 6 bottles of wine for later and had an interesting presentation from the winemaker. Then after lunch we headed back, through Chagny and down the string of automatic locks to the halt at Flagny, where we met Peter and Judy, the new owners of Zee Otter which we had seen 3 years ago in the north.
Monday, September 1
At 9 am we went 5 km to the bridge and mooring by Le Clerk’s where we bought bread and Croissants for breakfast, then after, filled with 310 litres of diesel @ €0.75 and a huge supermarket shop for the next week. Then down the 11-metre lock to Chalon where we were invited to moor alongside Vios and Zee Otter. A quick walk to an internet café and then a huge dinner.
Tuesday, September 2
A strong diesel smell led Ian to inspect the engine and find a steady drip from the diesel pump. It wouldn’t tighten and with the help of VNF he found an excellent mechanic at RGAC (Ph 0800 710 390, 31, rue Julien Leneveu) who removed the old one and promised to return tomorrow at 10 am to fix our problem. Then Ian and Chris rode to the Gare to tidy up their plans, had a beer at the church square and coffee with Keith & Margaret led to dinner.
Wednesday, September 3
Will he come? Yes he did and quickly installed a new pump, total cost €120. Ian fitted new fittings to replace the ones which he had used last week for the sun shelter, and which had pulled apart. After Lorna and Chris had checked out the historical Medical Laboratory in the old hospital, we went on to Tournus, doing a couple of loads of washing as we went. We were also running low on water after 3 days without refilling. There was barely enough room on the mooring, but we squeezed our stern half on, leaving the bow hanging. But I must accept help more readily when mooring, when it is offered! The pontoon is free including water and electricity.
Thursday, September 4
We spent the morning exploring Tournus, especially the old abbey. It is one of the finest medieval churches in France. Small, with two towers, but beautifully proportioned and finished.
After lunch we headed for the Sielle, one hour downstream. With water shortages we were required to wait up to 1/2 and hour for another boat to fill the lock. In the end, three of us went up. It’s a lovely river, we explored a nature reserve and about 7 pm moored above the second lock at Cuisery, where the port is run along with a camping ground.
Friday, September 5
20 km and 2 self operated locks later we arrived in Louhans, at the end of the navigation. On the way we passed several field of chicken’s fattening. This is the local speciality.
It is a nice port, with water, electricity and showers, all for free. We checked out the railway station for Chris and Annabel tomorrow, and explored Rue Grande, a medieval street with 147 shops in buildings with 600-year-old arches facing the cobbled streets. The church has a lovely Bourgonian pattered tile roof ant the town is altogether charming. Then, in the evening, we had some Bresse chicken at the restaurant; a farewell meal with Chris and Annabel.
Saturday, September 6
It rained overnight, but cleared in the morning for C & A to catch the train and Ian to do a load of washing. Then it rained steadily most of the evening and we even turned the fan on low to help dry the clothes. We invited Joyce and John King from the boat Enjoyable for drinks (tea!) and shared experiences. They are also friends of Debbie and Marty.
Sunday, September 7
Weather fair, and Ian started installing the two new windscreen wipers. Lorna checked out the parish market and bought a set of seat cushions. Later we went to Enjoyable for drinks and talking. We tried to ring, emailed and also texted Michael and Sorella and learned we are able to tell the world of their good news which we learned when they were with us.
Monday, September 8
In the morning we went to the biggest chicken market in France (and perhaps the world!). We had a lot of amusement and Ian says he may have eaten his last chicken! In addition to poultry (Chooks, ducks, geese, guinea fowl and turkeys) there were rabbits, small birds, puppies etc and all the hardware farmers might desire. Also was the largest general market we have seen in France, taking two streets.
After restocking at the supermarket, we left port at 11.30 and headed back towards the Saone. Tonight we are a lock above in a small rural town, listening to gunshots nearby, as the duck shooting season started last weekend!
Tuesday, September 9
A grey day with rain overnight and occasional showers, but not cold. We left Truchère about 9am just too late to share the first lock and then continued down the Saone. We had lunch on a pontoon at Macon. There was hardly any shipping; except just as we approached Dracé lock when two large freighters, a hotel boat going to the Midi and another pleasure boat all came together at once. We have moored after 7.5 hours at Belleville on a lovely mooring, complete with water and electricity, all at no cost to us, and with no one else on the mooring. The river is quiet!
Wednesday, September 10
A cycle ride into town for bread. A nice town with supermarkets. Then on past Villefranche to Trevoux. We always stop here, it is such a charming place. This time we planned only for lunch, but were thrilled to find Dave and Betty on Clara’s Girl who we had met in Lattes in 2000 moored on the new. free pontoon, c/w water and electricity. We shared lunch, explored the town and watched a soccer game that evening. They head for Valence tomorrow, in two days while we go slower and will see them as we go south.
Thursday, September 11
We cruised on to Rochetaillée Sur Saone, just below the lock and moored for a supermarket shop. But they didn’t sell LPG. They estimated 3 km to LeClerc’s so Ian biked. 7 km each way! So we are now stocked up for a day or 4. Then on to Lyon, which is always a buzz. We moored on the wall above the VNF, using the locked anchor chain for extra security. We were again amazed at the closeness of a large hotel boat, and later a large cargo boat as they just slid under the bridge behind us with only inches to spare. Also the view of the churches, lit up at night is spectacular. Michael rang in the evening and updated us on the success of the scan of their developing baby, due in February. He also corrected our records of his phone number that explains some mysterious SMS’s.
Friday, September 12
We didn’t want to delay starting on the Rhone while we had good weather. It is forecast improving from high cloud over the next week, so we should have a pleasant trip. For Lorna, it is a bogy she wants behind us with particular worries about mistrals and some strong southerly winds that she heard about somewhere. So now we are moored on the pontoon at Vienne, 29 km on our way. The river is low, but we have measured up to 4 kph both below Pierre Benite lock and the Givors bend, though mostly it is about 1.5 to 2 kph.
In the afternoon we explored the town, including the 9th+ century cathedral, a Roman temple somewhat modified and a Roman theatre which has been restored and is used for concerts etc, seating up to 13,000.
Returning over the footbridge to the boat we saw someone on the boat and Ian ran to check it out. Two 20+ guys were sitting in the sun drinking! Apologies as they left, but they had a clear feeling we didn’t approve!
Later a launch went past at 20+kph, causing a huge wake that thumped the boat against the pontoon. But it is a lovely setting tonight.
Saturday, September 13
Off after breakfast, with an increasing wind from behind. It was harder to hold the boat in the locks against the stern wind, but apart from that this remnant of a mistral, we had an easy trip to Tournon, with a gentle current of about 1 kph. It’s a lovely town, but the mooring is somewhat exposed to wash from passing boats.
Sunday, September 14
A huge wake from a passing fuel freighter thumped us against the wharf, but no damage was incurred. The tyres and fenders reduced the potential damage. The supermarket was shut, so that will wait until Valence tomorrow.
Then we discovered those guys in Vienne had left their mark. There were faeces in the water drum we use for laundry! Anyway both that and the washing are now clean.
An American couple, George and Toby in The Troubadours and their friends arrived after lunch in their Jeaneau boat and we had drinks with them as among other things we discussed their planned 6-month holiday in NZ.
A local recommended we moved 5 km on to la Roche de Glun, a better mooring c/w electricity, less exposed to wash. But we will stay till early tomorrow, and leave before too many big boats go through.
Monday, 15 September, 03
We left Tournon about 8am and missed the moorage collector again! It was a lovely day, little wind and we took 111/2 hours to the Valance harbour of l’Épiervière where we moored for lunch with Dave and Betty. Before that we cycled to the Giant supermarket for supplies.
At about 2pm we continued on to le Pouzin. We had been recommended a mooring just up the small river where we found 1.2 m of water and a collection of rings to tie to. It was a quiet mooring, away from large wash and close the town was most attractive, with bread nearby. We recommend it for shallow draught boats.
Tuesday, 16 September, 03
A 9 am start and on past the nuclear power plant to Vivières, a port we have enjoyed twice before. It was free then, but is now €12 the first 2 nights and €8.50 per night for 3 or more nights. But it is a lovely stop, and the weather is marvellous – cool at night, but rising to 30º, and still warm enough to eat on the stern at night. Lorna did some cleaning and Ian has painted the rest of the decks.
There are 2 large passenger boats moored tonight as well.
Wednesday, 17 September, 03
Another nice day, another passenger ship and a few more jobs. It’s a full port tonight with UK, German, Dutch and even several French boats here.
Thursday, 18 September, 03
Ditto, and we both had haircuts today as well. The Rhone Princess is here tonight.
Friday, 19 September, 03
Several boats have recommended a stop at St Etienne des Sorts and we have several times eyed the pontoon as we have passed. It’s gone now, in a flood, so we are moored to a peniche, which its owner is turning into a residence!
Saturday, 20 September, 03
It was a lovely mooring. The couple who own the boat were lovely and the town is quaint. Very tidy, a good wine co-op (Cote de Rhone), a minimarket and a bar/restaurant. We enjoyed our salad with goose gizzards etc though the main was less exciting. We rocked once or twice as large petroleum barges passed, but the stop was well worthwhile.
We continued down the Rhone passed the several nuclear power stations, down the 26-metre Bolene dam to Avignon. The port was damaged last winter and temporarily repaired for summer, but closes in a couple of weeks for winter and full repair. We initially moored on the ferry wharf, but with the advice and help of a couple of Swiss boaties reversed into a proper space.
Avignon is as lovely as ever and we had a short walk in the evening after Ian had retrieved our email from an internet cafe.
Sunday, 21 September, 03
We walked around the wall to the large Casino supermarket, but it was shut (Sunday). Then we received our regular call from sister Margaret and Gerald, bringing us up to date with NZ news. It wasn’t easy to hear over the busy traffic! Then we stocked up our veggies and fruit at a small greengrocer. They and fruiterers still exist over here. And such fresh produce.
We were prepared for a hoped for visit by René and Paula, our chocolate factory friends in Carpentra. They had been exploring on European Heritage Day, when access to all public buildings is free. We had a great chat till late.
Monday, 22 September, 03
We left Avignon about 9am cruised on a pleasant morning for 2 1/2 hours to the last Rhone lock at Vallebrugue. The weather deteriorated and we had to wait for 45 minutes for a boat "dangereuse" (petroleum) to descend and lock to refill - just time for another similar boat to arrive. By now the weather was a full blown thunderstorm, so we and another launch stayed moored until 4 pm, at which time we both decided that an improvement warranted continuing, so we could get to Arles in daylight. A bad move! The storm got worse and we had difficulty seeing. In the end we turned off above Arles into the Petit Rhone and moored in darkness on our own on an isolated mooring we stopped at last year. The storm continued until 8 or 9 o’clock, but we were secure. And big rivers aren’t subject to local rain. We had an omelette and had an early night. We know where all of our leaks are now!
Tuesday 23 September, 03
It’s a good job we have plenty of time. The storm last night has overfilled the Rhone a Rhine canal, and we can’t get through the lock from the Petit Rhone. We have been stuck against a 4 metre high wall all this lovely sunny day. But we have dried out, started to fix some leaks and read our books. Very relaxing! But we hope the canal drains so we can get bread tomorrow.
Wednesday 24 September, 03
We are still here! It has been a glorious, sunny day but the canal is still draining. Ian climbed up the wall, dragged his bike up on the end of a rope, and cycled into St Gilles to get supplies. There was a strong mistral headwind, and several times he had to pedal through water across the road, almost to axle depth. With cold, wet feet, he stopped at the Crown Blue office to arrange for work on the boat. The storm had flooded the quay and they were cleaning up. The canal is closed to all boats, which isn’t great fun for hire boaters! We will speak to Roger on Friday re the work. Then up to Intermarché. The effects of the flooding are obvious. Mud on the main street being hosed off and old fridges, etc being dumped in a temporary tip. Some customers had trolleys full of bottled water!
All day we were optimistic the lock would open, but no, so perhaps in the morning. Until the river is higher than the canal, the gates won’t open. In the meantime we have continued removing all the screws in the window frames, one by one, filling the holes with Sikaflex 291 rather than the clear silicon we were using. We await rain to test the effect. We had a lovely duck gizzard salad for tea.
Thursday, 25 September, 03
We spent all day hoping the gates would open, but all we have is a probability of opening tomorrow morning. But we are being a bit careful of water and battery supplies, just in case. We now have two peniches, a hotel peniche and a pleasure boat as company.
So all of the screws have now been removed, the holes filled and the screws replaced. Also two of the vents that leaked have been opened, cleaned and refitted. The stove and surround are shining and a lot of reading done.
Friday, 26 September, 2003
Action from 7 am, and the lock opened at 8 am with a peniche and pleasure boat coming out, and all of us waiting going back through. We headed for St Gilles and discussions with the mechanics, while Lorna bought bread and some supplies. As a result Ian caught a bus to Nimes New shopping area to buy METAL 5, a product which seals the space around the pistons and frees the rings. Will do an oil and filter change on Tuesday and check the result.
We topped up with water and headed 10 km up the canal, which still had a strong current against us to moor at Bellegarde for 3 nights. The port is spread along the canal and includes a hire boat company. We have moored just outside, with another ex Prince 2 boats behind us.
Saturday, 27 September, 2003
We walked into the town for bread and also bought lovely fresh vegetables. It’s a pleasant town, tucked under a hill with an old tower on top. After lunch we compared ideas with the ex Prince, now called Domino, It’s a newer version, and the local owner is upgrading it inside. He has fitted a wind-out camper-van awning to the stern, which is effective.
We had some light rain, and all but one of the leaking problems seem to be dry. More rain is forecast so we will see!
Sunday, 28 September, 2003
The leaks re-appeared, though much improved. They have been noted and fixed when dry. We read most of the day as rain continued and took a short walk in the evening.
Monday, 29 September, 2003
The rain has gone, and we left Bellegarde for St Gilles, doing two loads of washing as we went. But Paul is working tomorrow and will work on the boat on Wednesday. We stocked up at the supermarket and generally had a lazy day.
Tuesday, 30 September, 2003
Surprise! It was raining this morning, spoiling the plans for sealing the leaks. We did a bit of shopping, including a floating candle we have looked for a while and a cheap tarpaulin to cover the boat in winter. Later, after the rain cleared a little, Ian repaired the leaks on the rear door, replaced some rotten timber there, and re-hung the curtains. Still a touch of polyurethane needed.
Wednesday, 1 October, 03
Paul arrived at 9 am and first changed both filters. When we refilled the oil, we added the METAL 5 product. We tidied the temperature sensor connection, and he eventually managed to remove the thermostat cover. We replaced both the thermostat and the cover, after which he sprayed and cleaned the motor and then the motor bilge, so we should see any leaks easily. We filled with water and left for Aigues Mortes, where three hours later we moored in our favoured location in an old lock, just beside the two supermarkets. There was a strong SE wind blowing, but no rain.
Thursday, 2 October, 03
First we rang Joanne to wish her a happy birthday, then bought bread for breakfast. It was still blowing and Ian filled the tanks with diesel from the supermarket and cleaned out the lazarette. We have enough in drums to ensure a full tank when we leave the boat in Beaucaire for winter. We also bought a sheet of clear polyurethane to go under the tarpaulin. The screws in the area of the weekends leaks have been removed, sealant inserted and screws replaced. Also a bit of reading!
Friday, 3 October, 03
On our bikes for a look at Aigues Mortes and its surrounds. We even paid to walk up the Constance Tower and around the wall. Amazing. The sun has shone and the temperature rose to a lovely 30ºC. Some more serious reading and a few more screw holes worked on. O yes. We had trouble with the cell phone. It wouldn’t charge! Ian took it to an appropriate shop and together we established it was a connection problem within the phone. We still have €46 on our card and would miss its security as well as convenience. So we have replaced the chargeable battery with 3 AAA cells and with restricted use, hope that will last the last fortnight. Maybe the phone is passed it use-by date. It has served us well.
Saturday, 4 October, 03
It blew hard last night; a bit noisy and we were pleased we were well secured. It’s a wind called the tramontaine and usually lasts a few days. We did a bit of shopping, rang Margaret and Gerald and read.
Sunday, 5 October, 03
Sunny, but still a moderate wind, but we decided to go on to Grau du Roi, 9 km down the canal. It is a beach resort and canal access to the sea (not for us!). The wind moored us on a pontoon! There is no one to collect money and the electricity socket is a type only used by about six ports in this region. We haven’t an adapter, so have no electricity. We walked to the breakwater with its fabulous views along the coast, especially of Grande Motte and its futuristic buildings.
Monday, 6 October, 03
The wind was down so we took our chance and left Grau du Roi, returned via Aigues Mortes to St Gilles to report our engine appears a bit better (we have used very little oil and the smoking appears somewhat reduced), though we were disappointed at the diesel which appeared to have come from above the fuel filter and leaked to the bilge. After buying another tube of Sikaflex 291, we continued to Beaucaire where the boat will stay until next season. It was 6.20 and dusk was setting in.
Tuesday, 7 October, 03
The tramontaine continues, and though no rain it is cooler. (13º overnight and max about 20º) We did a load of washing and booked Erewhon into the port. It costs 3 months at 111€, plus 0.15€ a day while we are on board, then 635€ for year 2004. We will be leaving it here next winter as well, so that is good value. In the meantime they wouldn’t take the 2004 payment – apparently you pay when you pick up the boat! Then this evening we had a few wines with Caroline and Peter from ‘le Bon Vivant’ moored in front of us.
Wednesday, 8 October, 03
Our sleep was disturbed by a squeak, which appears to come from the rope moving on the forward cleat. Clear, but cool today and we started on jobs. Three loads of washing, including curtains, replaced the paper under the engine in the bilge, washed the battery. And a long bike-ride to the supermarket and bricolage. We were nearly out of wine! We also looked without success for some vinyl to cover the dreary and damaged plywood veneer in the lounge.
Thursday, 09 October, 2003
It is still windy, but fine. Another load of washing, swapped some books at the library, Lorna bought veggies at the market, while Ian checked out the possibilities of fitting a new drawer in the galley and later we had a shower at the capitainerie.
Friday, 10 October, 03
The wind has dropped and it was a lovely day, fitted the solar battery charger, replaced the silicon seal around the shower, topped up the diesel and we sorted our clothes. In between, we watched Aus beat Argentina in the first world cup.
Saturday, 11 October, 03
Another glorious day, helped by starting with a couple of cups of coffee at a bar, watching NZ scrape home against Italy in their first WRC match. Then we finished tidying the bikes, stained the word-work (a job Lorna has wanted done for 4 years), scrubbed the BBQ and ourselves.
Sunday, 12 October, 2003
We started the day with a full English breakfast at a bar with a dozen boaties, had lunch with Paula and René and later walked over the bridge to Tarascon and sampled at a wine festival.
Monday, 13 October, 03
It was a lovely still warm day and we moved the boat to its winter mooring outside a 10 m sailing yacht. We covered the cabin with a layer of polyethylene and a cheap car cover. In a spare moment Ian made some enquiries about further work on the motor next year and was quoted €3000 on a reconditioned Volvo Penta, plus installation. We will think around it!!
We finished the day with drinks with Carolyn and Peter.
Tuesday, 14 October, 03
Final washing and a train trip to Nimes to collect a rental car, and we are now ready to drive north tomorrow.
Wednesday, 15 October, 2003
A glorious trip via the Cevernnes and Puy to spend the night with Ann and Alan on Marianne just north of Roanne. The trees were in the most brilliant colours we have ever seen. But we got lost passing through Roanne to their mooring on the canal about 19 km north.
Thursday, 16 October, 03
A pleasant drive, initially on N-roads and later A-roads through the areas we had cruised in August, to Paris. Brilliant map reading by Lorna got us to sister and family’s house in Marly le Roi north of Versailles.
Friday, 17 October, 03
We flew out of Charles de Gaulle to London, followed by a couple of weeks in Greece. We had a week in Santorini Island and a 5 day coach tour through historic Greece, which we highly recommend.
