JOURNAL 2002
Mon 29 July
We returned the rental car to Gatwick after crawling
through several traffic jams, and leisurely checked in, rang Marjorie and Bill in NZ to
update ourselves on them and the election results. We arrived at Marseilles about 4pm,
withdrew cash (the new Euro which is taking us time to recognise quickly). Then drove our
little rental to Beaucaire, taking the local roads and arriving at the boat in Beaucaire
about 6pm. It looked good, the tiny solar charger had maintained the batteries and there
was no sign of damage. We did a minimum of unpacking, re-packing etc in the humid 30º
heat, had tea at a pizza parlour on a barge along the jetty and retired to bed. We were
unsuccessful in getting in touch with our mechanic who hadn’t replaced the injectors.
Tue 30 July
It wasn’t easy to sleep in the humid heat and Lorna especially tossed and turned. It was a humid sultry day; we showered in the port facility, got our port key, drove to the large Carrefour supermarket for supplies and fill the 3 drums with 70 litres of diesel. Then, after our usual salad baguette, we returned to car to Arles and caught a bus back. We barbecued salmon for dinner and tried our 5 litre bag in the box wine, which was OK. The boat is a bit more organised now. We now have our mobile phone connection and made indirect contact with the mechanic, but have no idea of his plans.
Wed 31 July
It was Ian’s turn for a disturbed night. He eventually brought all his tea up! Was it the salmon? We’ll never know, but anyway we have had a quiet day, and no news from the mechanic! But we got the bill today for the winter mooring for Jan 1 to now. E475. That’s about NZ$950. Not too bad, is it? We have also found out how to arrange our canal fee. We are paying by the day this year, and must advise the VNF in Avignon before we leave here, so they can ensure we pay for those 2 days!
Thu 1 Aug
It’s now Sunday and I am catching up.
We are sleeping in until after 8.30 now and almost missed the market this morning. Ian still hasn’t his appetite, though it helped to have Steve and Deirdre Picard from RAFFA for a couple of drinks. They have a yacht and share their time on it on the canals or in quieter parts and days on the Med., with time in their small flat in Cannes. Lorna found support for her dislike of excitement on the water!
Fri 2 Aug
We talked with Paul, the mechanic this morning and he will come on Sunday at 9. Ian has tried to get his bike gear cable fixed, but will have to ride in top all the time! Not too bad as it has low gears normally. Lorna got her photos of the English canals and the first of the wedding. Great. What a great day we had.
It was a Spanish night in Beaucaire tonight. The quay was packed with stalls, including a smart line in selling brightly coloured paper roses, with the sellers assembling the selection chosen by the customer. It had action, design and interest, tho’ still insufficient to persuade a stingy Ian into a romantic expression! There were several bands at the brasseries, some Spanish and some with dancers. All very pleasant keeping us wandering until 11.
Sat 3 Aug
We have arranged with Arles VNF to travel on Monday and pick up our 30 day vignette from them as we pass through to Avignon. Ian bought hardware for the boat, including an adapter to plug this computer into a French telephone outlet. We are using an international system, IPASS to contact our NZ provider. This afternoon we sat in a bar drinking Pastis and watched the All Blacks get beaten by Aus. Tonight we returned the visit to RAFFA and were cheerful as we returned to cook our own simple meal of Turkey steaks, new taties, carrots and green beans.
Sun 4 Aug
Paul came today and replaced the injectors. It started OK, but there is no improvement in the level of smoke. In the end we decided we go to St Gilles tomorrow and his manager can give a second opinion. Margaret rang from home this morning and kept us up to date with news. The rest of the day Ian spent finishing the poly-eurothaning of the shower door, tidying up the front windshield insulation panels, fixing the new insect screen to the master cabin hatch, filling up with water and organising the paper/book work. Lorna has finished sewing on the first seat cover that she had pre-sewn in NZ. We are ready to go!
Mon 5 Aug
We returned our key to the showers and received our deposit refund, then motored down to St Gilles. The warning alarm buzzed then stopped without explanation after a few seconds. We arrived about 1.00 at St Gilles and moored in the Crown Blue area. Paul had discussed the smoke problem with Roger, the chief mechanic and they had agreed the best was to take the motor out and check the timing. We paid a night’s mooring and prepared for Paul to do the job tomorrow.
Tue 6 Aug
Paul arrived early to advise he was wrongly told today was his day off, so its tomorrow for the engine removal. Ian stocked up at Intermarché and we read.
Wed 7 Aug
Paul disconnected the engine from the boat and lifted it
out with an old fork hoist with an extension on one of the probes. The timing was OK, but
the chain was stretched, so he replaced it. This tightened up the system. After replacing
the cover, he reset the valve gaps. Meanwhile Ian used the vacuum cleaner to empty the
bilge. The engine went back in and was reconnected. The throttle was adjusted, and the
engine started. It was already 6.30 so we didn’t have time to check much else. We
paid a very reasonable amount for all the work and motored about 4 km from the town and
moored at a quiet rural mooring. Lyon and Amsterdam here we come!
Thu 8 Aug
Not so good. We got to the last bridge before the Rhone and increased the power as the current increased. Suddenly we got a squeal of the warning system, the temp now over 210F (100C). We slowed down, it stopped and we returned to a small jetty under the bridge to give access to a pilot if needed. It was 2 hours before we got Paul, who suggested checking water connections, but wasn’t able to come out. His next day available would be Sunday, so we decided to keep our speed down and continue. The Rhone from Arles to Beaucaire Lock is one of the fastest on the Rhone and it took 3 hours for the 14 km. Several times as we raised the revs to 2000+ the alarm sounded and we had to throttle back and later run at 2000-. The boat speed would be 10kph and a stopwatch showed speed at about 3kph some times! But we made the lock, waited for a peniche to enter and then shared it with South Africans Keith and Linda on AFRICAT, their catamaran. We stopped for the night at Vallebregues (261 km from Lyon), where we stopped for the first night in 1999.
Fri 9 Aug
We tried to remove and check the thermostat to test it, but gave up as the hose pipe connection wouldn't come off. The last thing we need is broken parts. So we left at 10.40 and motored slowly at 1800 revs (9 kph) against a steady current about 2 kph and occasionally higher, past Avignon and moored at Roquemaure (225 km from Lyon), at 3.30. What a lovely site, with the ruins of an old chateau across the river, and Chateauneuf des Papes behind, with the white Peaks at Mt Ventoux behind again. We had arranged for Paul and René Clavel, our friends from Carpentra to join us for dinner, but they got caught in a bouchon traffic blockage for over an hour and didn’t arrive till after 9.30. But still a lovely night.
Sat 10 Aug
The only problem with this site was the thumping from the wash from occasional passing boats, especially fast commercial traffic. Off again at 1800 revs, making about a net 7 kph, we went up Caderous and Bolene (25 metres high) locks with the breeze turning to a wind as we went. The Donxère-Mondragon Chute is 30 km of straight and boring channel and we hugged the side to minimise the effect of the current. Twice we caught weed in the prop but cleared it by reversing. Then, as we entered the Donzère Defile, we were exposed to the full strength of the Mistral and current, generating an unpleasant chop. Here we encountered a German launch, tied to a pylon, with motor problems. We took his name and phone number to pass on at the next port, but at a net 2 kph we took 2 hours to do the last 4-km to Viviers! We passed on the message, but we still haven’t seen them yet.
Viviers is lovely. Take care of a submerged wall as you
enter, but since we were here in 2000 in the flood it has been modernised with pontoons,
water and electricity. And all is free! The town is old, at two levels with a cathedral
and chateau ruins above of a compact little village. We will stay here again. We plan to
stay tomorrow as a mistral is with us. Lorna picked potatoes with permission from a field
where the machine had worked and left a lot behind.
Sun 11 Aug
Windy! We explored the town. Ian has tried reverse flushing the engine water to improve the circulation. He also adjusted the throttle control to enable it to idle properly. Two huge cruise liners came in today – MISTRAL & VAN GOGH and discharged their passengers back to Germany. We have met some new friends and especially Ferdinad and Marli on HIPPO who were in the Baisse River floods with Tolly and Jas.
Mon 12 Aug
The mistral continues, so we have stayed on. Ian bought a new LPG bottle as the current bottle could run out any time! The large cruisers were gone when we got up, but this evening another has arrived and a small one has been in all day. We read a lot today!
Tue 13 Aug
We checked the village market and Ian topped up the wine cask at a wholesalers, and in spite of the wind still being strong from the north, Ian prevailed and we left Viviers which we recommend as a longer stop. We struggled against the current to Chateauneuf Lock and didn’t need to wait. The wind was in our face after that in the chute, and when we came out into the wider river later it was choppy, ending with a struggle against the current to the next lock (Logis Neuf). We were so slow they closed the lock! We have found a sheltered mooring to the left of the lock and been granted permission to stay here for the night. We had taken 5 hours for 23 km and 1 lock (only 4-kph average!). After a slow lunch, we did a load of washing and read. We hope the wind has fallen tomorrow.
Wed 14 Aug
The wind has fallen at last. We had a long day today and cruised straight past Valence. Today was beautiful and we are now in Tournon, the home of Hermitage wines. Ian has bought a 10-litre bag in the box for E20. He was also successful for the first time at using an Office de Tourism to receive email, but it didn’t send our mail so we will have to work that out. There was an Artisan’s Market in the evening and we had drinks with Silvia & Bertus from AEGIR from Woerded in Holland who recommended Sixharbour on Het ij as a mooring in Amsterdam suitable for sightseeing. A lovely evening
Thu 15 Aug
Summer is back! 30+ today. We had a pleasant cruise, passed our special mooring from 1999 at Andance and our refuge at les Roches des Condrieu and rose up 3 locks in the day. We are at Vienne, sharing a pontoon with a UK boat, SOLSTACE (Mike and Wendy). What a pleasant evening after a 10 hour day. Then Ian checked the water filters and found the bilge was full. He pumped it empty with the hand pump, but the electric pumps weren’t working! And where has the water come from.
Fri 16 Aug
Ian checked the bilge at 1 am and all was well, and in the morning it was too. We remembered that we had put water in the bilge when working on the cooling system in Viviers, so hope that’s the source of the extra. We have also replaced the bilge switch with one we had brought from NZ and re-connected the electricity to the pumps.
Ian briefly cycled around Vienne and was impressed with its Roman Theatre. Then it was on with the last boring stretch of the river, including the struggle around the 3 bridges at Givors where the river seems to be falling faster than elsewhere. We were both pleased to pass up the last lock into Lyon, especially as our speed was still restricted by the problem with the cooling system. But the slower speed seems to have been more economical, even allowing for the current against us. We have used less fuel than in 1999. It is a lovely evening tonight and we wandered though the streets of old Lyon on the right bank of the Saone. Dozens of restaurants, and lovely old merchants mansions. We finished with drinks with Jacob & Wenche, Norwegians on NARIDA.
Sat 17 Aug
Frank and Dimitri have arrived. Ian brought them by taxi from Gare Part Dieu at mid day and after lunch we took the funicular to the Basilica Notre-Dame on Fourviere, new but spectacular, and the 1900-year-old roman theatres
.
Then we motored 2 hours up the Saone to Rochetailée as it has a close Intermarché. We were lucky we checked it as it closed at 7.30 until Monday. Ian and the boys did a speedy top up of the larder, but our Visa wouldn’t operate the diesel pumps, so we will top up later.
Sun 18 Aug
We stopped at Trevoux where we have stopped twice before. A lovely town but we were 30 minutes late for bread! The approach of a passenger boat drove us from the mooring, and we continued up the Saone, until, in mid afternoon we recognised PARFAIT, another Prince like ours, owned by Gordon and Jane Grove from Naples, USA. We have been communicating by e-mail for three years and it was lovely to meet them and see the way they have modified their boat. We floated, tied together on a very slow moving river for ¾ of an hour, sharing a pastis. We continued to Montmerle sur Saone where there is a pontoon with water and electricity. But as late arrivals we could only cling to the end of the pontoon and our cable wouldn't reach the electricity. Pas de problem! And we enjoyed a lovely evening, including a rubber of bridge with Joy and Warwick, 2 NZer’s who have lived in UK for many years.
Mon 19 Aug
The sun shone bright and the temp went to the high 30’s. We squeezed into a mooring tonight on the pontoon opposite Macon shopping centre and have topped up with 15 litres of diesel, enough to ensure we can get to Chalon and the nearby Supermarket. After a lazy BBQ dinner, the boys fished and then we played cribbage.
Tue 20 Aug
Cloudy this morning and as we motored, Ian used the cooler conditions to scrub the top deck which has sticky resin spots all over. The Saone is picturesque here and we passed moorings from earlier days. Lorna even had a swim at Crèche Sur Saone that is now rather weeded up. With its free pontoon, complete with electricity and water, Tournus is just as beautiful as ever. I could have sent emails if I had had the right telephone connector, but the Office de Tourism has a new set-up and I searched the town for an adapter! We tried to ring Mike and Sorella – no answer - and then played cribbage until 11.30!
Wed 21 Aug
After 5 hours we reached Chalon and checked the port and its nearby free Halte Nautique, all of which we bypassed, and went up a 10-metre lock into the Canal de Centre, where 1 km on, we stopped at LeClerc’s huge supermarket. Ian put 220 litres of diesel into the boat, while Lorna checked out the supermarket. Then it was back down the lock and on to Gergy, 2 hours later, for the night. We enjoyed a restaurant meal for a change.
Thu 22 Aug
We got up and were away at 8.00am with the boys in bed till nearly 10.00. We stopped at a pretty town of Seurre for lunch and when we entered the lock, we had 7 others as companions. Lots of jostling. When we got to Crown Blue at St Jean de Losne we asked for a mechanic for 2 hours and one came in from his day off to look at the cause of the temperature problem. After 2½ hours he had fitted a new impeller to the canal water pump, and removed and cleaned the heat exchanger core. He checked and topped up the gearbox oil. After a hard run the temperature seems OK. Tomorrow will test it. Two more rounds of cribbage tonight. We are still moored at CBL.
Fri 23 Aug
Well, we seem to have fixed the temperature and the boat is running well. The rev counter is erratic and will need looking at. But it is no major deal. Auxonne is a lovely town and we are happy to spend our last day with the boys here. Napoleon trained as an officer here. The only problem was the speedboat with water-skier who continually created vicious wash and rocked the boat.
Sat 24 Aug
We saw Frank and Dimitri off at the railway station. They had been fun to have aboard. Then we cycled to an Intermarché to stock up for the wop-wops. We left Auxonne at 3.00, left the Saone and moored with 4 other boats two locks up the Marne a la Saone Canal. After dinner we shared a couple of drinks with Judy and David Wright from Grande Bleu, a large Dutch built launch. We have another noise. The rev counter falls, there is a scratchy noise from the rear of the engine, a hesitation and then back to normal. We discussed turning back to St J de L, but agreed to keep on.
Sun 25 Aug
Ian checked all fittings for looseness slowed the idle speed but found no problem. With a German couple on a Crown Blue hire boat for three weeks cruising Vitry la France, Toul and back to St Jean de Losne we left at 9am and the noise was still with us. About an hour later as we travelled he pumped some grease into the stern gland and the problem gradually disappeared. We hope a good lesson and Ian will probably fit a new permanent lubrication system next year. The canal is easy with a mixture of manual locks with student éclusiers and automatic locks activated usually by radar sensors. To my surprise, the country is not closed in, but open and pleasantly rural, mainly agricultural, but with some cows.
We stopped for the day about 5.00pm at a simple mooring 500m above Villeneuve Lock (33 km and 16 locks).
Mon 26 Aug
Cloudy to begin with the day brightened to ideal for locking. We left at 9.00 as planned with the Germans in front and with a 1 hour break for lunch, climbed 34 km and 26 locks and passed through the 4.82 km tunnel at the summit. I was expecting more of a valley, but it was all open country, agriculture including some large sunflower fields and some cattle. The countryside was attractive, with only a few villages and, as we had been warned, no shopping until near the top. Initially exciting, tunnels quickly become boring as you keep a 3.6m boat in a 5m channel. We developed an easy locking system, which didn’t necessitate leaving the boats and feel quite relaxed after so many locks. The last 8 locks were about 6m deep with two shifts of the rope as we rose.
Tue 27 Aug
The Germans left at 8 as we planned a stop today. When we
left as planned at 9, we had to wait for a boat to some up, so it was after 9.30 before we
got away. Then we had to wait for a lockkeeper at the next lock, and it was 10:40 when we
left the boat at the port near Langres, a fortified town on a hilltop, to walk up the
hill. We were in time for the 11.30 petit train, but as we were the only customers
they persuaded us to wait until 2:00pm. 
We had a pleasant tour of the town and its ramparts, much of it built after the 15th Century. It was well worth the visit. Imagine having to have a wall etc to protect yourself from harassing neighbours. We caught a bus back to the boat and are now 3 more locks and a swing bridge nearer Chaumont which we hope to make tomorrow. We spent an hour or so scrubbing the port side of the boat as we were on a convenient low concrete wall.
Wed 28 Aug
It was misty today as we travelled to Chaumont, a nice port with Electricity and laundry facilities. I was able to use their telephone line to send emails, tho` I appear to have had trouble sending, but receiving worked well. We met the co-owners of IDEFIX which we had seen last year in the south. Cleaned the starboard side of the boat this evening
Thu 29 Aug
Checked out Leclercs supermarket, and the bricolage for paint etc. The paint cutting paste has enabled us to get a green strip near the original colour. Restained the ensuite doors and other shoddy places and bought the bits for a shelf in the guest room. Met Aussies Setsuko and Geoff on WILMA and joined them for drinks – great fun.
Fri 30 Aug
Ian spent all day biking up the hill to a belt supplier and fitting new ones to the water pump and to the alternator drive. Fingers crossed, but it ran OK. We cleaned up more for our guests who rang today to check our whereabouts. Our Aussie neighbours came to drinks with us.
Sat 31 Aug
We met Mary-Ann and Win at the station after a ¾ hour walk up the hill and through the village. They had come on an earlier train and were there ½ an hour before us. We organised for the taxi to detour under the enormous viaduct with three levels – top train, second aquaduct and under a walkway. Magnificent. After lunch we went to Leclercs again, and we got a call from Dave Livesley who we had passed at Valence during our rush up the Rhone, and Yvonne Intres planning our trip to Holland. One of the bikes got a flat tyre resulting in a relay type return to the boat. After a relaxing afternoon we suggested to all the 4 English speaking boats in port that we eat at 7.30, bringing our own meals together, around a picnic table. A great night was had by all. Present were the Aussies, Walter Thomson, a Scot taking his new (to him) yacht home and whom we had seen at Vivieres, and passed at Valence where he was having his fuel tank repaired! And a US couple travelling south.
Sun 1 Sep
We left as planned at 9.30 with a Dutch peniche ( a couple heading for Amsterdam after time in the south) and stopped for at lunch time for the night at Viéville, a small town with a port with free electricity and water. We wandered around the town eating fruit from trees as we went, W & MA cycled to explore further, and generally had a lovely day.
Mon 2 Sep
French bread again today and all enjoyed it again. We had the locks to ourselves today, tho, we did meet 7 boats going the other way in convoys of 2 or 3. The sun shone and we are content. We did have to do a quick repair in the last lock after a gust of wind at the previous one blew the bow against the side, as the bottom strake was level with the edge of the lock, and it pulled out. Working in the low level of a full lock made the repair much easier and it only took an efficient team about 15 minutes to fix it! We stopped for the night at Joinville with a quick visit to an understocked Lidels supermarket and a new 10-litre bag-in box, and our usual high standard meal ended another lovely day.
Tue 3 Sep
After a quick trip to a boulanger and a Petit Casino for the items we didn’t get yesterday we were off at 9.00. The sky cleared and with a nice lock-keeper we made good time. Lunch and sightseeing at Eurville beside a yard full of beer barrels, and the night on a stone wall below a bridge at Roches sur Marne. We explored the small town, tried cribbage and watched a thunderstorm develop.
Wed 4 Sep
The first locks were automatic and we arrived earlier than expected at St Dizier, so phoned for an eclusier just before he would have arrived anyway. We were pleased we had stayed in the small town as St Dizier is very industrial. Then the long straight sections of canal, past the airport with its Mirage jets that we see regularly, to Vitry le Francois. We have modified our views of this town. Though most of the buildings were flattened in WW2, the reconstruction left a more modern, tidier, roomier town than most. And the quiet, though shallow port with electricity is lovely; and free too. By coincidence, just as we had last time we were here, we pumped all the stale water from our tanks and refilled them. We had a lovely meal of fish fillets, leeks etc and strawberries with pastry. Wim rang NZ to get his roaming phone operational.
Thu 5 Sep
Off at 9 with the mist rising to give a glorious day. We cruised easily down the string of automatic locks controlled by turning rods, with lunch at Pogny to Chalon sur Marne at 3.30. W & M were able to send a fax from the Office de Tourisme, but Ian was not able to send emails. We explored the old buildings that are beautifully kept and the huge 13th century cathedral. It’s a lovely town.
Fri 6 Sep
I sent emails out today and got others in. The IPASS system workrd perfectly and I was only on line for 3 minutes transferring a lot of messages. The France Telecom sales office gave us access to a line, so in future I will try them again. Both of us had our mid-tour haircut and feel a bit tidier. We finished the day with dinner for four at a French restaurant.
Sat 7 Sep
Wim and Marianne left for Germany today, and we continued on towards Reins. We had hoped to make it by 6pm when the canal closes, but as soon as we left the Lateral a la Marne, at the first lock of a chain of 17 rising to a tunnel we saw a peniche ahead. So it was a slow afternoon as we followed it up and through. It was so slow, as the peniche was fully laden and practically emptied the lock of water as it struggled to enter. At less than 2 kph it took nealy an hour of stop/start through the tunnel, so when we came out we moored for half an hour and had showers to give it time to get away. We stopped half an hour later at the end of the pound as it was after 6pm. During the day the rev counter has been behaving peculiarly (it drops periodically to 100 rpm, then with a slight slowing of the engine, moved back to normal 17 – 1800 rpm). It is disconcerting and worrying as we can’t see why. The problem has been with us for a week or so, but today was more frequent.
Sun 8 Sep
A nice day and we continued to Reims, with a 1 hour stop for bread at a nice port (Sillery). We had to ask where the Reims port was at a lock, because it wasn’t where the chart showed. It was about a km further on. In the meantime we discovered the cause of the rev counter anomoly. It must be sensed in the alternator, and the belt was slipping. Ian checked it out after we stopped and had lunch and the belt was slack, but not helped by being wet from water sprayed by a leaking seal. So we asked the capitaine when he called for money if he knew a mechanic. He led Ian to a man talking nearby who immediately helped tighten the belt, but also checked the water leak. It appears to be the front bearing from the engine water. Not the canal water as we thought. So we have a appointment with a Citroen workshop tomorrrow. We want it fixed as the uncertainty is spoiling our enjoyment. And we are 6 days ahead of schedule with no guests until 5 Oct, so we have time.
We then visited the huge and marvelous cathedral, a must in this town and walked home through drizzle.
Mon 9 Sep
It rained during the night, but cleaded as the day continued.
The mechanic called at mid-day and agreed with the diagnosis, copied the details, including part numbers from our manuals and left to organise them. We hope Wed or Thursday. We walked to the Porte de Mars, a 1700 year old Roman gate, that at later stages has clearly been incorporated into more recent defences, though now where the wall was is a boulevard. Then we topped up the larder at a Monoprix.
Tue 10 Sep
We are enjoying the best baguettes we have had this year. Crusty with soft centre. The mechanic called to check the engine number. Still hopes Thursday. We have started on some jobs. Lorna did 2 loads of washing at the capitainerie and is sand papering the EREWHON sign for re-staining. Ian used some wood in the rubbish bin to make runners for the toolboxes. We also looked at the battery powered shower assembly for when we don’t have hot water from the engine. Some parts are needed.
Wed 11 Sep
Lorna continued sanding and Ian rode to the supermarket complex we plan to stop at, 5 km up the canal. In addition to getting his bearings and deciding where to moor, he got bits for the shower and more sandpaper. While he was there the mechanic came and removed the old pump.
In the afternoon the mechanic came with another to recheck the engine numbers. They are still looking for the part. Lorna looked at the shops and Ian started to fit a new radio aerial, which seems likely to enable us to listen to the BBC on the medium wave through our boat radio. It will be nice to listen to English programmes more often, though we did follow the story on the terrible floods in the south of France reasonably well. Of course we head a lot about 9-11 and the World Trade Centre.
Thu 12 Sep
Still waiting for the part. In the meantime, today Ian installed the new aerial for the car radio we listen to in the boat. Now we can get the BBC 4 on the MW (648 kc) just as if we were at home. No music, but we will be very well informed on English issues! At least we are up to date with world news. And we can also get the BBC overseas program on the portable radio long wave (198 kc).
Then he fitted the electrics for a shower using warmed water in a bucket and a bilge pump to force it through the showerhead we have taken from the other en-suite. It works a treat. Just put 5 litres of cold water and 1 of boiling in the bucket, turn on the switch, and wash away.
Fri 13 Sep
Lorna looked around the shops; Ian polyeurothaned the EREWHON name board and a couple of worn patches in the boat. And we both finished another book each. We were asked that if the pump arrived (one has been located and ordered and couriered), would it be OK to install in the evening. Yes, but it didn’t happen.
Sat 14 Sep
We had morning coffee with the Dutchman on the other boat
in port. He helped us to change our route in Holland and continue down the Maas to cross
the Rhine further downstream and have 3 km downstream instead of 20 km upstream. The we
shopped for food, bought a new France Telecom card that can be used throughout Europe, had
the cell phone checked for text messages and tried to set up the cell phone for use in
Holland. But no sign of the pump, so it looks as if we are here until Monday. Tonight we
enjoyed a son et lumiere at the Basilica of St Remy, once an Abbey, but since the
revolution a parish church. Just before it began our cell phone rang. Joanne updating her
house and job situations. It would have been embarrassing 10 minutes later!
Sun 15 Sep
Another pleasant day. I must tell of Lorna’s fisherman – she noticed him first. He walks over the road bridge, then 1 km up this road to cross another bridge and finally another km back under the 1st bridge opposite our mooring, between the canal and the A4. He arrives about 2, fishes with great concentration and occasional spectators, most of whom he ignores. No fish are seen and he departs by the reverse route about 7pm at his usual brisk walk. Anyway, not a lot else today. Except Lois rang a to arrange for them and Philippe’s cousin and husband to stay a night next Saturday.
Mon 16 Sep
Margaret rang last night. She has had some difficulty getting us. Our tenants are leaving 3 weeks before we return. Our YABBA card is getting low, so I topped it up this morning. We waited around for the mechanic and rang but no part yet. After lunch Lorna headed for the shops and about 4pm the mechanic arrived with the part. By 5.30 it was installed and also a part of the injectors was tightened. So we took off from the 12 Euro per night mooring to a free one near to the huge Leclerc supermarket complex. We did a quick run through the supermarket and Ian wheeled 50L of diesel back as well. All seems well with the world now, but we are a couple of days behind.
Tue 17 Sep
After a disappointing visit to the bricolage, we left La Neuvillete at 9.45. Half an hour later we caught up with a peniche and had to stay behind him until about 3pm as he travelled and locked much slower than us. There was never enough room between the locks to pass him and clear away to enter the next lock before he would arrive and claim priority, so we stayed behind and were soon joined by a British yacht. At Berry au Bac, they turned left and we right and stretched our legs, so to speak, for an hour before catching up on Anna, a Dutch peniche which turned out to be a house boat being relocated by Bert and Joss. Just before 6pm, another peniche appeared from nowhere (it had possibly come down the lock to turn around in the larger width available) and entered a lock ahead of us both. The other boat and we twisted the hanging pole, which registers your arrival to the controlling computer, but we were sure we wouldn’t make it before 6pm when the locks shut. However, Bert and Joss called us in behind them as they edged forward and we squeezed in behind them. So we both made it, and shared a glass of wine at tonight’s mooring in Asfield. Joss had spent 5 months in NZ on farm exchange programmes.
Wed 18 Sep
What a successful day. We were away about 8.30, but not before the peniche which had obstructed us the night before. However he let us through on a long pound, and we kept a steady 9 kph all day. Ian cycled ahead to buy bread for lunch and we passed Anna in the same town. We stopped after (above) the next lock for ½ an hour and ate our lunch in peace until we saw the peniche approach the lock. We were away and kept up the momentum until we arrived at the foot of the 26-lock flight about 4.30. We had been warned of an awkward switching system involving the use of a broom, but this has now been replaced with a fully automated system. Breaking an infra-red light as you leave a lock prepares and opens the next one. It gave problems 3 times, but pushing a red button on the cabin called an éclusier who set things going again. Anyway, we were keen to stay ahead of the peniches, especially when we were told that on this canal. Commercial boats can start at 7am and pleasure boats at 9am. So we climbed another 9 locks in the next 1½ hours. That’s 18 for the day as well as 50-km. It is a lovely evening and we were tired but content.
Thu 19 Sep
We waited on tenterhooks to see if a peniche reached us before 9am, then pressed the red button to call an éclusier to start us. He emptied most of the locks ahead of us and we progressed quickly. It was a beautiful morning; we passed 1 Swedish yacht descending before reached the top at 12.30, a total of 4½ hours for the flight. The book suggests allowing a good 7 hours! We had lunch at La Chesne and continued quietly on to Pont á Bar, a small town with a large boat workshop and small hire boat fleet. So we have moored ready to go on the Meuse tomorrow.
Fri 20 Sep
After breakfast we made a couple of calls from the Telecom Box to NZ, then headed out on to the Meuse for a quiet 2-hour journey to the last lock before Charleville-Mezière. We moored above this for the night – quiet, free and only 200m to a good supermarket. Ian checked out the port for tomorrow on his bike and had his memory refreshed by passing through Ducale Square, a magnificent 16th C planned development.
Sat 21 Sep
We locked down about 10.30 and ½ an hour later were at the port de plaisance. In addition to the lateral pontoon mooring there is now a large basin containing pontoons, which looks very bare, so no one moors there by choice. Both cost E11 a night, and we were able to send and receive email from the capitainerie. Lois, Philippe, Chantal and Alain all arrived about 7, just following the camping signs to the port etc. After a meal, we wandered into Ducale Square and then to the Musée des Marionettes to watch a full cycle of the 12 hourly puppet presentations. Then back for dessert.
Sun 22 Sep
A good sleep-in, breakfast and Philippe ran Ian to a Service station to get 40 more litres of diesel to get us to Belgium where it is duty free! They left about mid-day and we read etc till 2pm when Ian successfully sent of the email which hadn’t gone yesterday. At 2.40 we left for the north, suffering occasional heavy showers. We met Englishman, John Wilson and his lovely Dutch barge Johanna who Ian had met on Friday. He takes paying passengers for 1-week cruises on the Meuse at E2000 for up to 8 for the week (self catered). Good value for a larger party.
We have stopped for the night at Chateau Regnaut, with the skyline silhouette of the four brothers who feature in the clock puppet display.
Mon 23 Sep
We left with drizzle that cleared enough to do a load of washing. The automatic locks continued until Revin where our first manual lock surprised us. We passed the tunnel that cuts off the town and moored about ½ km upstream in a lovely port with electricity (paid for at 6pm!), had lunch and walked 200 metres to a commercial complex including a supermarket, bricomarché and cheap imports shop where Ian lost Lorna!
Then on to Fumay, free though a small charge for electricity.
Tue 24 Sep
Overcast and cool, but the rain held off. After helping with the manual locks, we were ready for lunch at Givet. We stocked up on bulk wine before crossing the border, when we put 100 litres of red duty-free diesel into the tank (40c rather than 77c in France). We will fill up before we leave Belgium. Then we continued down the first two locks in Belgium, rather larger than the French were, and all electric. The locks will take 4 peniches compared with 1 in the French. We had planned to continue another hour to Dinant, but this mooring above the Anseremme lock was too attractive for a couple of tired navvies to miss. Electricity is becoming a must, as the evenings are now quite cool.
Wed 25 Sep
Raining when we got up and showers continued most of the morning. The mooring turned out to be free as no one came to collect. Accompanied by the lovely Dutch boat Piet Neyn, we passed through lovely Dinant with its spectacular hilltop chateau and domed church, and moored for tonight in Namur in the same mooring as we had met Tolly and Jas 3 years ago. The rain stopped and we investigated the old town (we had inspected the chateau last time) and bought a few supplies. We had been warned this port was free as the water supply was cut off while they upgraded the showers etc. It is tempting to stay a few nights!
The boat next to us was sporting an Aussie flag, and we had a pleasant evening with Ted and Carmel who are moving a friend’s boat from Holland to Strasbourg via Nancy. We don’t envy them the cooler weather ahead! But we got a few ideas for our days ahead.
Thu 26 Sep
Rain again this morning and a bit difficult to see as we continued. Much more heavy traffic here in Belgium (in France we reckoned 3-4 a day, here 20 or more, and increasing as we go down the Meuse), but the river is wide and gentle, though the locks are slow and now we have to report to the office at each lock. The rain stopped mid day.
We had never heard of the large towns of Wanze and Huy (with its huge defensive citadel on the hilltop behind. We are now moored 3km upstream in a small port formed by a wall between us and the river with a small downstream entrance which considerably, but not completely reduces the waves from the huge boats speeding past. As the season is now finished we have the mooring with electricity free rather than E7 + E2.50 for electricity. Two Belgian boats have since joined us.
Fri 27 Sep
We had drizzle for most of the morning as we headed on down the Meuse. Frequent large boats churned up the water each time they passed, and as mostly there were concrete walls each side, the reflections of the waves kept on for some time. As we entered Liege with its continuous factories each side of the river, it was a continuous action like a washing machine. Most unpleasant.
We stopped about 12 md long enough to dash into a small town to buy bread for lunch that we kept until we reached the welcome yacht port in Liege (similar to the one in Wanze last night, also subject to some wave action). Liege is a huge city with an older centre and a new centre close by to the south. It is surrounded by heavy industry. We were happy to stop and look, but not attracted to stay.
We met the Americans Chris and Karen on their boat Tourmalign who we had seen at Reims and swapped a couple of books and tried unsuccessfully to phone NZ. Maybe we have the 0800 number wrong. Ian bought a new tarpaulin from a nearby bricolage but little else. The phone jack in Belgium is different from that in France, but will wait till Holland to get a new one, as theirs will probably be different again.
Sat 28 Sep
A much nicer day. By the time we got to Maastricht it was brilliant sun, though the brown pollution was always visible nearer the horizon. We filled with duty free diesel at 1km on the Albert Canal (that continues to Antwerp). The tank took 200 litres and we stored 100 in containers below. We won’t need a lot next year! It cost 40c per litre compared to normal supermarket price about 80c and E1 on the river.
The first 20 km on the Albert Canal was OK though lots of huge factories especially cement production. We shared the lock with a large freighter, a sightseeing Dutch barge and 2 other pleasure boats and dropped 13 metres into Holland and the Maas. This was full of pleasure boats on this lovely sunny Saturday.
We found the wall between the Wilhelmina and St Servaas bridges Ted and Carmel had told us of at Namur and find it more sheltered than the two ports of the last two days, though no electricity and water neither of which concerned us on this mild day. We had dinner ashore at a local hotel - OK but not exceptional and the worst glass of white wine this year!
We followed the crowds over the bridge into the town, were directed back again to the ANWB (the local AA who also print the charts) and bought several charts for use this year. Then back over the river to a floating bunkerschip to buy a Dutch courtesy flag and another chart (at a lower price than ANWB)
Sun 29 Sep
A lovely day and we have stayed here in Maastricht. Ian had difficulty finding bread for breakfast as all the shops are shut Sunday and it seems also Monday morning. But as the sun shone thousands walked into the squares, us with them and they sat drinking coffee etc though we wandered around admiring the order of things, watched the start of a ½ marathon and also succeeded in ringing NZ using YABBA. I must check the Belgian number some day.
In the afternoon we tidied up, lazed, used our new charts to plan and have been rocked a bit by pleasure boats, rather than the commercial ones which still run on Sunday. One of the joys of Maastricht has been the carillon bells that chime on the half and hour. Very pretty.
Mon 30 Sep
We thought we had trouble when we started this morning. No readings on the gauges. The alternator wasn’t charging. After mooring we suddenly realised the diesel engine was still running, as it does, with the ignition turned off. What relief after our earlier troubles. Then, it was a lovely cruise in glorious sunshine, though with some delay at one of the locks for what reason we don’t know. We used the 6 hours and the sunshine to do a double wash, mooring on a small tributary at lovely Roermond. Again we had a free mooring, no services. We purchased a Vodafone Netherlands SIM card for the phone which came with E5 of credit, which we hope, lasts us until we leave. We also had our first experience of Dutch shopping in a small supermarket. We used the phone to ring Germany and confirm arrangements for Bill and Annette to join us on Saturday.
Tue 1 Oct
After returning to the Vodafone shop to enable the use of SMS, we left at 11am on a glorious sunny day, with no problems at the locks (we are now talking in English on the VHF and getting sense back). We cruised 9kph with quite heavy traffic including a huge ship loaded with containers going upstream, but all no problem. We met a couple of smaller freighters making their way upstream, blue flagging, ie they were rounding a bend going upstream on the wrong side with a large blue board beside the cabin on the starboard side, with a flashing white strobe in the centre. We haven’t seen this with big boats before, though we use the technique ourselves. Of course we were too late to react, but as a small boat we were so close to shore they passed easily.
Venlo is a lovely town to walk around. The buildings were clean, modern in an old style, with a lovely old Stadhuis and several squares with people enjoying the nice day. But we couldn’t send our emails, though did get to read some at an Internet Café as well as check the bank account. We walked through a large supermarket. We are going to have to learn this shopping all over again! There was a huge range of pig products, and also of cheeses, coffee and tea and all with strange labels.
Wed 2 Oct
Joanne’s birthday. We left Venlo about 9.20 for a 5-hour trip, One 3.6m lock, to Gennep where we wound our way into a quiet yacht-haven. We rode club bicycles into the small town, enjoying the cycle tracks with right of way over the cars! Apart from some small souvenirs and meat and veggies, we didn’t spend a lot. We have arranged to take the bike in to a cycle shop tomorrow, to fix the gears – it has had only high gear all season! In the evening Ian rode into the town to phone Joanne. We are conserving our cell phone time.
Thu 3 Oct
Overcast at first, it turned to rain by lunchtime. This was the first port in Holland we have paid for (E8) so we stayed with our heater on low, both finished our books and at 2 pm when the havenmeister turned up, were able to use his phone to send (with some failures) and receive email. Then out on the Maas in the rain to Cuijk (where we plan to pick up Bill and Annette tomorrow) to check out the municipal mooring (bouncy, but OK, but overnight verbotten) before going 5km further to this "lakeside" mooring, just off the Maas at Mockerplas. It is still raining, but forecast to clear.
Fri 4 Oct
It did clear. A lovely day and we tidied up the boat a bit ready for our visitors, read a bit and enjoyed the break. About 7pm, they rang and will travel by train to Cuijk where we will meet them at the station about 2pm. We have experimented with Dutch deli foods and enjoyed a beef stew last night, and bacon bones tonight.
Sat 5 Oct
The weather wasn’t great all day. Bill and Annette rang at 9. They will complete their journey to us by taxi and meet us by the Cuijk mooring. So at 12 we left, had lunch while we waited in Cuijk and met them about 1.45. After their lunch and supermarket shopping (where we couldn’t use our Visa, though we did pressure them; I keep saying we will walk away and leave the trolley, but our need had been greater than theirs!)
Then we returned to Mooker-plas for the night, a few beers and a good night of bridge.
Sun 6 Oct
Up about 8.30, a leisurely breakfast and left about 10.00. We noticed that the big boats all seemed to turn into the Nijmegan Canal to the Rhine, and this seemed confirmed as we saw only a few later. One lock and we stopped for lunch at Batenburg for lunch. We enjoyed a bit of banter with a crowd of yachties who were heading for the pub. By now the sun was out and we had a line of washing. After lunch we continued about an hour to De Gooden Ham, a summer resort area. We moored by a picnic ground (free) and walked around the lovely camping area. More bridge.
Mon 7 Oct
The cloud and cold wind were back, but reasonably free of rain. We left about 10, stopped an hour later at Lith just after a 4 metre lock for some food shopping. Then we returned to the boat for a lovely lunch. When we restarted at 2pm for a while we had heavier traffic, but this proved an anomaly.
We continued on the Maas to a branch to the Waal (Rhine), and moored for the night on a pontoon by a campground. We thought we may have a free one, so didn’t use the electricity, but in the morning a woman collected our E7. More bridge!
Tue 8 Oct
A lovely day. Crisp but clear. Time to cross the dreaded Waal. After an old wooden framed lock, we headed out on to the wide waterway with a moderate amount of shipping. Probably 6 – 10 boats in sight at any time, but big spaces. It was a bit rough in the wind and well as traffic, but 12 minutes later we reached the exit lock at Gorinchem, 3 miles downstream. It was shut till 12 (10 minutes later!) when we went up. The trip through the town and the boat museum on the canal was tremendous. We stopped for lunch at the museum (another item on display?) and also Ian ran to the local VVV for a chart of the next area. We continued through the lovely Meerkerk, with its recommended mooring, to Vianen where we stopped for the night. Another crew described it as the only port with free mooring including electricity in Holland! It was another interesting town to explore. And we had the heater on for our bridge. Margaret rang today. She had received an email from Jo with our Dutch number.
Wed 9 Oct
Another sunny day. We did two loads of laundry as we progressed. We crossed the Lek River and continued on the Merwede Canal. This crosses the Amsterdam-Rhin Canal between two locks and there were many large boats cruising at high speed making a huge swell. We slipped between two and were caught by two stern wave making us roll considerably. The table tipped over, but nothing broke. We sped into the welcoming lock on the other side. The section from here to Central Utrecht was exceptional. First 4 lifting bridges, then as we entered the city, a series of a dozen or more lovely double arched bridges between which were charming sections of canal.
I managed to receive email at Primafone, the Dutch telephone shop, but not send any. I don’t know what I am doing wrong. We used our gas heater tonight for the first time here and it worked OK.
Thu 10 Oct
The experience of crossing the Amsterdam-Rhin Canal concerned us and we didn’t fancy a 12 km trip along it. So we have revised our plans and now we are cruising through open farmland towards Gouda on an alternative route, which has been much approved. Even the return crossing of the A-R Canal wasn’t as eventful.
We stopped for lunch by an apple orchard (we completed their harvest by picking ½ a dozen apples that were the sweetest we have had for years). Then on to the last lock of the canal at 5.25pm into a river described as Getig Issel. This turned out to mean tidal, and we were 5 minutes late to enter the next lock to leave this stretch. So we have moored on long lines on a commercial wharf and will have to check them at two-three hour intervals tonight. We already have had to move the boat to make room for a hotel boat, but there was no aggro.
Fri 11 Oct
No problem during the night. The long lines coped well with the 3-metre rise and fall. At 9 we went through the lock into Gouda. (pronounced something like howda). The square was cool in both ways. Freezing (though still sunny) and fascinating. We stocked up, including some Gouda cheese and headed north. We have rearranged our meeting with Yvonne for tomorrow at Uithoorn where we have come to today. It was a lovely canal; huge but with only a few boats. Unfortunately we haven’t electricity again. Sure it’s cheap! But we would prefer the comfort in the evening. Still, good bridge.
12 Nov
What a pleasant day. Yvonne, Lisa and Jennifer arrived about 11 and we headed back the way we had come for an hour, moored on a private mooring for lunch and then back again. Lots of talk, food and laughs. There were no locks, but a brug-geld (a 1 Euro toll) bridge. Then later, we invited Nettie & Kees Cassee from the boat next door to help them plan their 6-week tour of NZ in November.
Sun 13 Nov
We are here! Amsterdam with all its canals. We left about 10am, passed into the Amsterdam canal system about 12.30 where we paid 8 Euro for the right to moor anywhere, and filled our water tank. Then we shared the canals with the tour boats. The bridges had 2.4 metres clearance (we have 2.2 to 2.3) and it was fun.
The shipping museum with its huge old sailing ship was spectacular, the Ij canal no problem even though there was the odd huge boat. After a small misreading, we found Sixhaven where we are now moored for 2-3 days. The electric heater is working well! After lunch we took the free ferry across to the station and a tram to the Rijk Museum where we saw the great paintings and bought our tickets to Floriade tomorrow. It is 6.5º outside and 22º inside!
Mon 14 Nov
Well, we went to Floriade. It wasn’t great weather to start with and deteriorated during the day, but we saw most of it. It is the last week, but most exhibits were still operating.
If we hadn’t known before, we now have a strong impression of the Dutch dependence on water pumps, and that this is not a recent fact. Other memories include a chrysanthemum with 100 different blooms grafted, and 3 weird, long necked, flat-footed, stomping "birds" which entertained us in the indoor pavilion. We were pleased to get back to our warm boat for dinner and a final night of bridge.
Tue 15 Nov
The sun was out when we got up, but disappeared about the same time we got a large washing machine load on the line. It will have to finish drying tomorrow. It was Annette and Bill’s last day and we spent a few hours including lunch in the city. They packed and we all crossed in the ferry to see them off to Schiphol at the station. With this cold weather, we wouldn’t mind it being us! We rang Robert Bootz today to find where his haven is and confirm that we are coming. A good job, as he will be away tomorrow.
Wed 16 Oct
The day dawned fine but with a strong SE wind. Fearful of the effect on the Isselmeer and after advice from the portmaster, we decided to use the small canal system. As we left Amsterdam, we checked our planned route was clear. All OK they said. But when we turned off the Amstel into the cross-canal, a notice, in Dutch of course, mentioned Spoorbrug which triggered a warning, and when the next bridge had a double red light (not operational), Ian ran up to the bridge operator who spoke some English and confirmed that the rail=bridge at the end of the canal was closed. So on his advice we headed south again on the Amstel to the next alternative. Here we were advised that as today was 16 Oct, from now on a request had to be made the day before, and without this the canal was unavailable. The complexity of arranging this and the fact that our cellphone was nearly out of credit encouraged us to continue south to Gouda and follow the reverse of our journey last week. But careful exploration of the Almanac suggested we would have the same problem there. So, suffering from panic, we stopped at the bridge at Uithoorn and discussed our problem with an extremely helpful bridge operator. He phoned and arranged bookings on the last option through the Bullewijk Canal to Abcoude today and then the Angstel River to cross the very busy Amsterdam-Rijn Canal into the Vecht, thence to Loosdrechtse. With relief we turned back and headed to Abcoude.
It was on a very pretty little stream and tonight we are moored completely obstructing a lifting bridge waiting for an operator tomorrow morning. At the back of my mind is concern caused by a notice of a closed railway bridge, but we hope it’s the same one that stopped us earlier today.
Thu 17 Oct
The Abcoude Bridge was opened. It is only 4.2 metres (our boat is 3.6 metres) and in the bouncing through an unexpected bump sent Ian over the bow into the freezing canal. It was only about a metre deep and he was quickly out and stripping off for a change of clothes ready for the next bridge. Unfortunately he lost his glasses, though the helpful bridge keeper did try to find them with a magnet. So it’s sunglasses till we are home! We squeezed through another bridge described (optimistically) as 3.8 metres, under another with 2.4 metre headroom and excitedly reached an operational rail bridge. The crossing under this bridge and the Amsterdam-Rijn Canal were easy and we entered a small canal to the Vecht. Disaster! We hadn’t fully read the small print enough. The last floodgate and bridge was only 3.4 metres! All of our efforts to avoid travelling along the A-R Canal had been for nought. We may as well have done it that way yesterday! Anyway we headed back the 1 km to it and entered at a quiet moment, headed north at a steady 10 kph, hoping (successfully as it turned out) to avoid being overtaken and coping quite well with the wake of huge ships speeding down the other side of a canal. We even met a pair as one was overtaking the other. But an hour later we were off, into the Vecht.
A quiet 2-hour cruise on the beautiful Vecht took us on to the Loosdrechtse lake and into our Marina. It was a shame, but our relief and the gloomy day reduced our appreciation of this charming river.
We had a lovely meal next door at a restaurant.
Robert Bootz is a boat broker who also winters boats and does maintenance on them. The boat should be well looked after here.
Fri 18 Oct
A reasonable drying day (no Laundromat) as we washed our bedding and clothing, but the cabin is full of washing
Sat 19 Oct
Ian was almost successful at changing the diesel filter, but something went wrong and it will be left for Robert Bootz to fix. We are well on the way with packing.
Sun 20 Oct
Drizzle. Tonight we again watched the huge flock of birds swooping around before settling in the trees east of here. We ate at the restaurant again!!
Mon 21 Oct
We are ready for our 36-hour journey home. The boat is still in the water (so we could stay on it) so we won’t see the bottom after it is lifted. We will await info and photos with interest. Robert was kind enough to drive us to Schiphol for our 36-hour journey home.