JOURNAL 2001
June 22-24
Arrived London 9.30am the beginning of our third year living on the French waterways, by 11.30am at Michael’s for his engagement barbecue. We lasted until 7pm then collapsed in bed. Great to see Sorella again and meet her relatives and their friends.
Mon 25 June
Gatwick to Montpellier and taxi to Port Ariane, Lattes. "There she is!" boat looks grubby and a bit sad but OK, - paid the account for April to June FF3000. Bought food for tea and breakfast at local ‘Shoppi’ – early to bed.
Tue 26 June
Morning bike trip to ‘Carrefour’ for big supermarket shopping. Enjoying the baguettes again – finished unpacking but because it is high twenty-degree heat we have temporarily left the old tarpaulins on.
Wed 27 June 
Bus and tram into Montpellier – made the most of sightseeing via the tram – modern and old town areas and exciting and thriving city. Bought and fitted the phone card. Had drinks with Dave and Betty Claras Girl from Manchester/Liverpool – bed 11pm.
Thu 28 June
Changing the diesel filter, not a success – the fuel tank was so full that the fuel flowed back down the overflow pipe. So bleeding the filter was misleading and a filter full of air entered the injector pump. Tried to fix it, but had to get help from a local mechanic but still no luck after one hour.
Fri 29 June
Diesel system bleeding! 5 more hours – then rang Paul at St Gilles who pointed out a second bleeding screw below the pump. Success - and couldn’t complain about the charge FF200 (NZ$70) and two bottles of red. Drinks on Claras Girl – Ian admired the size of their motor.
Sat 30 June
Finished washing the decks; temp 39 degrees – the old covers are now in the rubbish. We decided to move tomorrow after the morning market, so that we can buy the delicious cooked chicken we remember from last year.
Sun 1 July
Market day at Lattes – fruit, saucisse, herb plants and a cask of red wine – a good local AOC( plus the chicken!) Left as planned 1.5hours down the Lez River through the only lock in the region – we’re on our way again! Joined the Canal de Rhone a Sete, west approx. 4km and moored just after the floating bridge at l’abbaye Maguelonne. Took the free "petit train’ for a swim in the Mediterranean about 1,5km – Ian thought water too cold for him. Access for pedestrians on the bridge closes in the evening – and we ferried two guys and their dog across the canal later that evening.
Mon 2 July
While it was cooler began polishing side of the boat – some day to be continued! Mistral not so strong as yesterday. Drove 1.5 hours to Frontignan passed etangs(lakes) with a few flamingos, and views of the coastal resorts. The lifting bridge opens 0700 1300 and 1630 daily, mooring free for one night ( but no one was counting). It’s best to moor away from the railway bridge. We decided to moor here and take the train to Sete rather than take the boat.
Tue 3 July
Caught 0930 train, FF9 one way, looked around the port areas and lower town but would need a bike for a better view. Thousands of small boats in the complex harbour network. Fees: FF50 day, FF100 per night.
Left mooring after lunch and crossed the Etang de Thau – gentle breeze, brilliant sun, and all along the northern shore towns with sandy beaches and fishing ports. Between the shore and us were extensive oyster beds (prob 15-20 sq. km) and all around us yachts from a large cat down to small Optimus played. We took about 1.3/4 hr for the 18 +km length before entering the Canal du Midi. Moored before the round lock at Agde to keep cool under the giant plane trees – Ian checked, the harbour was full and mostly in full sun.
Wed 4 July
Biked to Agde one of the oldest towns in France, Greeks BC etc. the old church has walls 2m thick! We liked this old town, now several miles up river but still an important fishing port. Planned to stay here until Saturday to see the start of the jousting where teams on two boats compete like knights of old did on horseback with shields and lances. Prepared the insect screens (not yet needed!) and progressed on the stern shade fittings. A little light drizzle and cooler tonight.
Thur 5 July
Ian fitted the insect screens and pleased with the result as they were made in NZ – also put together and pre heated the barbecue, which also came in the suitcase. Met Jill Myers, English, who commented on our All Black flag, invited her for coffee on board, then went for drinks at her place in the evening. She lives part of the year in her 2 – 300 year old apartment right in the centre of Agde. Checked the market out in the morning and bought fruit and veggies and Paella for dinner.
Fri 6 July
Continued cleaning, the chrome tube pipe we bought for the canvas stern shelter is showing rust after only one week – so tried car polish, but in the long term may need stainless steel. Weather continues overcast, humid 26degrees. A thunderstorm later in the day cleared the air. After dinner walked into Agde and met Jill and friend John at a bar by the river and watched the beginning of the jousting season, parade through town then competitions on the river, drank Pastis (slowly)
Sat 7 July
A lovely day; left Agde 11am and had a phone call from Margaret (they had –9.3° frost in Chch). We stopped for lunch at Portiragnes and later
searched Villeneuve de Bezier for a supermarket that was on the chart, but couldn’t
find. We arrived in Bezier about 4pm and moored below the lock that rises into the port.
There was shade, and the port was full (it is free for a week with electricity!). We found
an ED supermarket nearby and later watched the jousting in boats powered by oars, not
outboards. Then we used our newly connected barbecue for the first time, a great success.
Sun 8 July
Ian cycled to the city centre on top of the hill for the usual bread run
and explored its narrow streets and crowded houses. Then after breakfast we both cycled to
explore the canal and riverside and the magnificent aqueduct. We took a call from Philippe
to say Frank was on his way from Bordeaux and at 4pm we met a taller crew member than we
had had last year.
It was a nice day, so we decided to try our luck at the Fonserrannes flight of locks. The Orb aqueduct is impressive, and as we reached the locks four more boats entered, leaving us and three bumper boats (hire boats!) to take our turn, the last group for the day. Ian stayed ashore and walked the ropes up, Frank took the bow rope and Lorna piloted and took the stern rope, and we moved up in less than ½ an hour.
We moored on the bank in the basin at the summit and had a barbecue dinner.
Mon 9 July
After the usual breakfast, we continued to Colombiers (a port which has electricity and is free for 1 night) for lunch. Later we moored before the Malpas Tunnel and walked up to the Oppidum of Ensurine (a pre Roman site, from BC800) and which overlooks the spectacular Montady Basin, drained by Monks in medieval days. We had been impressed by this 9 years ago and had time to see the museum as well. Tonight we moored on the popular canal side in Capestang.
Tue 10 July
We cycled about 1 km to the Intermarché. Then on past the Canal de Robine junction to Narbonne which we will explore in October and on to Le Somail for the night. It is famous for its bridge, canal museum recognising its place as a passenger staging place and a huge second hand bookshop. We filled with water, only to discover the strong chlorine taste too late. But we now carry 10 or so bottles of satisfactory to use for drinking and cooking in these situations. We have had no locks since the Fonserannes.
Wed 11 July
A cloudy day and we rose up 3 single and 2 double locks today. We had lunch at Argens-Minervois. Then we climbed up to an old chateau, which Lorna had photographed in 1992. It was still run down and we remembered wondering why anyone would build a new marina. It is now a busy hire boat port with private boats staying as well. And the town looks more prosperous, though less magical. We moored at La Redorte for the night, serenaded by a Dane on his yacht playing his piano accordion to his lady as we cooked on the barbie. We shared coffee with Rosemary from Sydney and her French son Luc who live in Toulouse, as they passed Erewhon.
Thu 12 July
We went up several single and double locks and also a triple, usually with 3 others. The bumper boats have inexperienced crews, but our boat is well protected, and we enjoy a few laughs as well as their company. We had to wait 3 hours at the triple, because we were 5th boat, lunch came and then a hotel boat arrived with priority – this was the longest time we ever had to wait during our five months in the south west. We have heard comments from quite a few boaties that they would never go to the Midi during the summer because of the hire boaters and the long delays but it was not a negative for us.
On this hot day we were grateful for our new shade systems. We moored on the bank 200 metres after Trebes, had barbecued sausages and stir fry for tea and played cribbage.
Fri 13 Jul
The supermarket was a couple of km from the boat so we proceeded on to Carcassonne. After 3½ hours we moored 100 metres before the railway bridge with free mooring and water available. As you approach the town there is a magnificent view across the Aude River of the cité, the largest fortified village in Europe.
We stocked up at the Monoprix in the centre of the town, which was crowded for the Bastille weekend.
Sat 14 July
We slept in and had breakfast after 9.30. Paris hasn’t got the 2008 Olympic Games! After lunch and a rest we walked through the lower town, making the most of the cathedral to rest from the heat.
Then over the Aude on the Pont Vieux, and up to the Cité. This huge fortress was rebuilt in the 19th Century. Though internally it is almost completely commercial, the ancient aura still imposes. We timed our visit to listen to a free organ recital perfectly and sat in the church avoiding a heavy thunderstorm. We walked down the hill, and had a cheap dinner and got what we paid for, but enjoyed the company of a multi-lingual French/German family. Then we waited on the Pont Vieux in occasional light rain for 1½ hours. But the wait was well worth it. Spectacular fireworks giving the impression of an attack and the fortress on fire. It was the greatest quantity and quality we have seen (except for the New Millennium celebrations) with a magnificent setting and went on for 30 minutes.
Sun 15 July
It was raining gently and 14° . We iced the Bastille Day cake we cooked yesterday and after lunch we took it to Chantel in the port. We met Joan and Roger in Tournus last year and cruised with them and Tournesol until Avignon, it was their wedding anniversary.
When we returned we found a note from Southern Hawker on the door. So we took more of our cake up to the other end of the port to meet Eric and Lois Gledhill from Picton who were cruising on this UK boat. Then a BBQ tea and cribbage.
Moored behind us was a solo yachtsman who seemed a bit of a loner. He had odd gear hung all over his boat and tested a collapsible table as we watched, he kept a mongoose as well as a small dog on board his small boat.
Monday 16 July
We made a 10 am start as the day cleared. We had lunch at Villesquelande and refilled our 5-litre cubie at the co-op. We moored just west of the port at Bram, after the bridge.
Tue 17 July
We cycled to the old 13th century town, seeing our solo yachtsman from
Carcassonne cycling into the town with busking gear. Then on, up the 13 locks to
Castelnaudary. This is a lovely port, with a large basin (as a reservoir for the several
large locks below) and the Crown Blue base and a smaller basin for the public port. We
bought 2 used fenders and a new mooring rope, and found an internet café where we read
mail from our friends on boats to the north.
Wed 18 July
Ian biked to Geant Supermarket and exchanged an empty for full cylinder of LPG. We changed the cylinder a week ago and they last about a month, but it is best to have the backup connected ready so we don’t forget! We left with the Italian speaking Swiss family Henke (Andreas, Monica, and teenage daughters Fabina and Morena) and locked up to the summit at Mediterranean Lock. After passing Segala and the memorial to Paul Riquet we descended the Ocean Lock and moored for the night at Port Lauragais. The port is free with water and electricity and contains a museum to the Midi Canal and another to Rugby (with a French slant), a restaurant and hotel, financed by the roading company who provide to rest area for the motorway here.
Thur 19 July
Still cool with showers. With no bread available, we breakfasted on meusli and then continued on down the locks (mostly manual single, but occasionally electrical double ones). We cooked the chicken in the oven for extra warmth in the cabin!
We have a small problem. Increased diesel smell led to a close inspection finding a slow drip from the injector pump. It is coming from the high-pressure lead that we removed in Lattes to bleed the injector pump.
Frank cleaned up at cribbage tonight, but Lorna is still 1 up!
Fri 20 July
Ian rang Paul at Crown Blue for advice, which helped but didn’t stop the problem. We will get new washers in Toulouse.
After passing dozens of occupied peniches etc, the two southern, private ports and travelling alongside pleasant canal-side walks, cycleways and fishing spots we moored at Port Sauveur. It has extensive pontoon mooring, complete with water but since the electricity was not yet available it was free.
Already there were Shiela and Jack from Warkworth on Febrida, a motor sailor they intend to leave in or near Lyon for winter. (they are round world yachties from the past) Then Skua arrived with Gerhardt and Marlis whom we had met on the Marne last year. These two Germans had met, married and lived in NZ for 7-9 years. Also there were Philip and Jill Prince from Cornwall on Whisper, motoring to the Med.
Frank and Ian walked to the town centre to find a bar to watch NZ play South Africa tomorrow. Then in the final cribbage it was one game each, so Lorna kept her place as World Champ.
Sat 21 July
Frank packed and we all cycled to the station. He left at 1.45 (7 hours to home!). We spent a couple of hours reading before walking to the bar to watch (with 5 other young Kiwis) the All Blacks beat SA in a disappointing game. We all walked back with them to show them where the Casino Supermarket was.
Sun 22 July
At last a lovely day. Ian removed the offending washers, heated them on the gas and
replaced them with some silicon sealant. We will test them tomorrow. We re-organised the
rear shade and prepared for a shared party, BBQ with those mentioned above. It was a great
success – one of those great evenings of cruising and not too much effort.
Mon 23 July
After hugs and kisses, the others left at 9.00am with Lorna waving our kiwi flag in farewell. Then we started the engine test the seals, which were much better. We left the engine running for 30 minutes to heat the water for showers and recharge the batteries a bit after three loads of washing over the weekend. (the spin drier uses electricity) In the afternoon we cycled to a diesel specialist and bought a dozen washers. They were mild steel, not copper to reduce the likelihood of electrolysis reactions. It was a pleasant afternoon and we enjoyed our exploration of this lovely city, built on the pretty Garonne River. We also stocked up at Casino s/m on the way home.
Tue 24 July
Away again. There was still a slow drip from the injector pump, but we hoped it would stop – it didn’t! There is a 6-metre drop after 2 km, just by the station. We had to wait for a rising boat here, but after that the locks were all prepared. At the Embrouchure (an unwelcoming, deserted port) we had to make a 270° turn into the lateral canal which passed through commercial and industrial suburbs and railway marshalling yards– interesting to we NZ’ers. We passed down 7 electric locks and then 3 manual locks with waits at a couple for rising boats, until we reached Montech (pronounced Montesh). For this year it has been a longish day – 8 hours. We are moored just before the port on a free public mooring. The port costs F30+F10+F10 per night and we don’t need power or water. We watched fascinated by a couple of Muskrats families swimming and grazing on the opposite bank. (the French say they were introduced to France from America )
Wed 25 July
We had a disturbed night with teenagers talking in the park till near to 2.00am, so today we shifted to the other side of the port where it looks very quiet. Ian has replaced the washers on the injector pump with the new ones and the problem is solved. Whether it was the new washers or more pressure from using one of Duncan’s (Ian’s father’s) sockets, we will never know! He also has painted the helmsman’s chair base. The temperature rose to 40° today! Ian also biked to inspect the local Pente d’Eau (water slope) in which a locomotive pushes a wedge of water up a slope carrying the boat(s) with it. But we will have to use the 5 locks as the Pente d’eau is only for large boats! It’s 7.30 now and the cook is on strike! The temperature is still 35° .
Thur 26 July
We left Montech at 10 with light cloud which cleared as we went, going down 5 locks in ½ an hour and doing a load of washing as we continued to Castelsarrison, arriving after noon. It is a lovely port, usually only F10 a night, but now free as the Capitaine is sick. Yesterday it had a crowd of about 30,000 watching the start of a leg of the Tour de France, right here on the waterfront. (sorry we missed this)
Lorna went off to cool in the local swimming pool and sprained her ankle just before coming back on board.
Fri 27 July
Lorna rested her ankle and Ian checked out the town on his bike. The Intermarché is 1 km further along the canal and only 200 metres from it, so we can refuel there when we move on. It’s a nice place, free and we are ahead of schedule so we will laze about here. Although there is a bar with TV, the Aus/SA rugby game is not being broadcast on Canal+. Ian bought salmon steaks from the s/m and they were beautiful baked on the BBQ The Moro Ice Cream bars were also delicious but he had to run with the bike on the way back as it got a puncture and didn’t want them to melt!
After mending the tyre, he cleaned up and broke the joining link on Lorna’s bike chain which must have made it like riding uphill.
In the evening we had drinks with Ian and Joan from Glasgow who arrived this evening on their yacht.
Sat 28 July
Another hot day after early rain. Bought a new link for the bike and fitted it, read, and drank lots of water and cordial. In the evening we walked with Sue and John Broadbridge to the market square for a Latin Rave Up sort of rock music at which we even danced a bit as well as sunk a couple of Pastis’s.
Sun 29 July
Still hot, did the washing, read and Lorna went with Sue for a swim. We shared tea with the Broadbridges.
Mon 30 July
Still very hot and we left for Moissac. We filled with 3 bike trailer loads (total of
210 litres) of diesel which was at a holiday special price of F4.83/L. We were grateful
for the shade of the motorway bridge we were moored under. Then we continued passing over
the Tarn on the magnificent aqueduct before dropping 3 locks into Moissac. We rested until
just before 7 under the shade before going down the last into the port where we moored on
the South side with a little more shade. The port is free for 2 nights though you pay for
electricity.
Tue 31 July
Still hot, we stayed on in Moissac. It is a lovely town with a magnificent Abbey and
Cloisters on the pilgrim’s route to St Jacques de Compostella in Spain. We also
watched the decommissioning of the local TF company in the town square. We sat in a bar
for a drink delaying returning to the boat in the sun.
Wed 1 Aug
Hot again with the temp rising to 39° . We left with Lurley and passed down 7 of the 8 locks. They are gradually being mechanised and automised but the last one wasn’t and as we arrived at 12.35 we had to wait in the shade so had a pleasant lunch break beneath the plane trees. We moored at Valence d’Argen at 2pm. The left bank was like a Hollywood set ready for a son et lumiere Spectacle showing one century of the regional history. Here we get free mooring, electricity and water and also front row seats to a fabulous presentation. We finished the evening with drinks with Caroline and Peter and their friends on Lurley.
Thur 2 Aug
We watched a thunderstorm to the south last night and its cooler today. We explored the town, stocked up the larder and had salmon steaks for tea. Ian fitted the cigarette lighter socket, he had brought from NZ on the dashboard, and plugged in the solar panel.
There was a night market with street music and juggling etc.
Fri 3 Aug
Another cooler day. Ian cycled to Auvillar, a lovely historic town on the hill above the Garonne about 8 km away. Philippe (our brother in law) used to stay there as a child and had show it to us 9 years ago. Tonight is the spectacular and we have been watching the preparations all day. We have some mules in a field nearby and stalls getting ready for the ‘spectacle’. Someone left the gate open and Ian used his charm and herding experience to get the mules back.
Sat 4 Aug
What a spectacular it was. We had front seats on the bows of our boats for one of the best shows we have seen. "Fil de l’eau" or "Thread of Water" was a presentation of the district’s history from the middle of the 19th century. It involved great lighting, great music, fireworks and explosives, vintage cars and boats, hundreds of actors and a good commentary. We joined the crew of Lurley on their foredeck and drank a glass or two of wine as the show unfolded over 2 hours.
We slept in this morning and after breakfast used the cloudy weather to scrub the pollen dust from the decks and the blue rub marks from the fenders on the side. In the evening Phyl and Jill from Tigger and Caroline and Peter from Lurley joined us for 3 hours of drinks. Then we progressed to Tigger for pineau and a look and finished with a lasagne around midnight.
Sun 5 Aug
We cleaned up ready to start at 10.30, but the engine wouldn’t start. We tried several things and in the end Ian removed a washer he had inserted in the lower bleed screw on the injector pump.
After 2 hours we were away, but we were grateful we had 4 batteries and had remained connected to the shore power with the charger operating!
I have just had a ring from Bill Warren who taught at Slim School with me in 1967-8 to tell me that Neil Pritchard in NZ had located Barry Cole who was there at the same time and whom I had wanted to talk with for many years. I will get in touch with him in England later.
We moored on the bank at Boé a few miles before Argen and Ian went to bed with a headache – which was unusual as we have kept surprisingly good health in 3 years in France. Somewhat better by teatime, we enjoyed a pleasant evening.
Mon 6 Aug
The headache has gone; it was a pleasant though overcast day and after a short trip into central Argen and passing Lurley moored opposite the Locobase, we moored at the public port by the railway station. It is noisy beside a road, but OK for exploring the town that we did on foot. A helpful Information Centre directed us to the old town full of half timbered houses and huge old merchant house 4 of which are combined into the museum. After an hour reading e-mail at F10/hour in the Pointe Jeune, and lunch (Mexican chicken wings and frites – very French) at a brasserie, we explored the museum and the beautiful Cathedral. We took the opportunity to change our Avis rental pick-up point and not impressed by our mooring decided to cross the huge aqueduct over the Garonne. It was a holiday with lots of visitors watching at the lock and after a perfect demonstration of going down the lock, Ian gave a bow to much applause! There was a string of 4 locks without an obvious night mooring, so we continued on an hour at a turning circle at Serignac. It was a quiet rural mooring, a few hundred metres from our first English Bastide town. These have a square and usually a church in the centre of a rectangular village and would have had a wall surrounding the town for protection. The French Bastides which grew up in response were usually less rectangular (probably built around an existing village).
Tue 7 August
A pleasant 3 hours to the Baisse aqueduct and then Buzet. Both the new hire base and the old public port are run as a unit and charge F25 + F12 for each water and electricity if needed. Free mooring is available under the lovely shading trees each side of the ports. When we moored at the quay there were Peter and Caroline having a beer at the cafe, so we joined them. Later we barbecued some saucisse of doubtful age, but which seems to have done us on harm and restocked at the local grocers.
Wed 8 Aug
We know our Aussie friends on Cignet Noire are around here somewhere, but enquiries were unenlightening. We took a horse and cart ride up to a local chateau for some wine dégustation. We bought a couple – the sauvignon blanc/semillon was interesting with a taste of herbs, but the red was ordinary. Later in the afternoon Ian cycled to the cave of the local Co-op where there were 40-50 people sampling, a bus parked outside, and supermarket trolleys all around. After being destroyed by phyloxera? in the 1960’s the members replanted with modern cabernet sauvignon and merlot vines and the result is a very palatable wine at great value prices. Sampling showed a good vin de pays a F9 a litre and an excellent AOC at F18 sold in a 10-litre bag in the box. We bought a 10 litre box. It will keep better than a 5 litre plastic cubie!
Thur 9 Aug
After a 2km run for the bread and then again for the paper he had forgotten to get (we now buy a local paper most days to keep up with world and local news and weather, in addition to listening to the BBC on short-wave once a day), we went down the 2 stage lock into the Baisse River and headed upstream under the aqueduct we crossed on Tuesday, watching another CBL boat going over us. We met 8 boats in the 1½ hours it took to get to Vianne. They will be heading back to bases for a Saturday hand-over.
Vianne is another English bastide, with its walls and corner towers still intact. We inspected a glass blowing factory without buying anything, admired the small Romanesque church and bought veggies and fruit in the square.
Fri 10 Aug
We arrived in Nerac, one of the most beautiful settings for boats. The town sat on
hills overlooking us, some half-timbered houses and plenty of flower boxes. We did the
historic walk (via a numbered plan with description, from the tourist office) and
organised a bar to watch NZ play Aus tomorrow at 2pm. The town was buzzing because the
annual wine festival was beginning.
Sat 11 Aug
The street market was the best Lorna had seen in France for locally made goods. Back to the boat for lunch and at 2pm in front of the TV at the bar, with a beer each and high hopes. Enough said, though we agreed that we hadn’t seen Jonah play better. The town was full of people and events to watch, plus wine to drink. Rows and rows of tables were set up on the streets outside all of the restaurants with fixed menus at differing prices ready for the evening meal. In the early evening there was a parade acting out a procession of Henri IV and cortege, complete with prisoners, buskers, jugglers and admiring ladies. The town and its chateau have many intellectual and royal connections from the past. We slept well even though many partied well into the night!
Sun 12 Aug
Leisurely wandered up the Baise River; hardly any current, tree-lined all the way with glimpses of countryside, cornfields, sunflowers, and stubble from harvested grain. We stopped at Moncrabeau, under the bridge for shelter from the sun. The town a-top a steep hill has a stone seat in the square called the Liars Chair. Once a year a competition is held to elect the King of the Liars. Ian wouldn’t let Lorna photograph him in the chair!
Mon 13 Aug
We stayed another day in this quiet spot, though when they turned the water on to water pot-plants on the bridge above we moved a little to avoid the worst of the drips. At one stage there were 12 hire boats here with us. We planned to eat out, but after climbing the hill, found the only restaurant was closed Monday! So it was omelette for tea.
Tue 14 Aug
Our phone has been out of area, but seems OK now and we had a ring from Michael. We were the first boat away upstream this morning and it paid off as we got a good mooring when we slipped into Condom! It is free with electricity and water. The church bells ring each quarter, but tho’ we heard the 5am and 6am bells, they are not a problem. It was hot today (39.9° C).
Wed 15 Aug
Still in the Condom! We went to the market for fruit and veggies today. We thought the supermarket was expensive, but the market wasn’t a lot better. We had rain and thunder in the afternoon so we read.
Thu 16 Aug
The rain cleared early, so we continued on to Valance sur Baise (2 automatic and 1 manual lock). We moored next to L’Abbaye de Flaran and wandered through the 800 year old Cistercian structure. They believed in self-sufficiency and supported themselves on the farm, with their own mill etc. Worth the visit.
Valence, in the late afternoon with threatened thunderstorms was a bit depressing. It is another bastide town established by the monks this time, built high o-top a cliff, above the river. But the port is free with water, electricity and clothes washing facilities! We bought fruit, veggies and meat.
Fri 17 Aug
We had heavy rain and thunder overnight, but it has cleared and we are appreciating the town better in the sun. We read quite a bit today. (Both of us have enjoyed Frank Muir’s biography)
Sat 18 Aug
A lovely day. While it was cooler in the morning we cycled about 4km up to a medieval village (Maignaut) and while we were looking at a pigeonnaire the president of the committee that renovated it asked us in for a look. He told us that of the 10 houses in the village, 5 were owned by English, 1 each by Germans and Americans and the other 3 by French, of whom he is one and lives in Paris!
At 2pm we watched SA and Aus in a dismal drawn game at the local brasserie.
In the evening we had our second dinner ashore since coming to France this time. This meal was the opposite of our Carcassonne experience – superb. We had paté de foie gras; Ian had a beautiful salad with goose and ham and Lorna a local fish, sandre. It finished with an apple pastry sprinkled with Armagnac. It was well worth the 1-km walk to and from the farm restaurant.
Sun 19 Aug
We used the port showers and washing machine, though not without some comedy as attempts were made to recover the Electricity when the circuit breaker went.
This morning we talked with the French owners of Kiwocker, which arrived last night. This was the other boat we looked at, at the H2O base in St Jean de Losne in 1998 when we chose Erewhon. A family from Bordeaux now owned it, but was interested to know what the name meant – a combination of Kiwi and Ocker(Australian).
We were also lucky to get a gift of two bottles of excellent wine from M et Mme Fonteyreaud from Domaines Tich and Grava near Langon on the Garonne. They were on a promotional visit.
After lunch we farewelled M et Mme Gonzalez Guy on their converted CBL Buccaneer with its added roof-top steering. They moor at Beaucaire and live in Provence. 2½ hours later, a small malfunction in the last lock before Condom resulted in banter between Lorna and two English couples in the lock-side restaurant, who invited us to join them for a drink. We warped the boat to a tree and enjoyed an hour of conversation and banter with a couple of ex Brit Army parachutists and their wives. One couple now lives in Condom.
Mon 20 Aug
A major change. We had Meusli for breakfast and a pancake for lunch! You must have some variety. We biked 6km to Larressingle, a small medieval village with its walls and keep intact. It was quite spectacular. Here we had the crepe in such a lovely setting. Much of the journey was uphill and we walked a lot of it, but the return journey was fast! So we are spending another night in the Condom and have rung Joanne.
Tue 21 Aug
Back to bread; then a 2½-hour trip to Moncrabeau where we had our shady spot under the bridge. The barbecued ducks legs for dinner, weren’t a great success.
Wed 22 Aug
We filled up with water and proceeded to Nerac. We are experimenting with using the battery for both the fridge and the clothes spin drier. It seems OK tonight. Not only does the 12v save gas cost, but it also cools the fridge more effectively. Champion supermarket is cheaper here than Condom; larger and also exposed to more competition. We finished the gas cylinder last night. It had lasted 10 days longer than the previous, so maybe the extra used by the BBQ is outweighed by the savings on the oven other cooking.
After lengthy comparisons we have decided Nerac is the loveliest port we have stayed at in France. Its lovely old buildings, tidy quays between two attractive bridges, all of which are beautifully lit at night all, contribute to its charm.
Ian read the email and hopes his replies have got through. We would have loved to accept an invitation to visit offered by an English family at Maignaut, near the pigeonerie near Valance. But we are now three days on from there.
When he returned Lorna was drinking cordial with 1 of 29 of a party sponsored by the Brothers of the Poor from Paris to a local chateau for a holiday. She was from Mali and all were very poor, very sick or handicapped.
Thu 23
The sun burnt the early morning cloud off as we left about 11am for Lavarduc, sharing
the locks with an English family. We passed some lovely weirs and chateaux. The afternoon
was too hot to explore, so we read. While we read, a pair of Kingfishers fished and
sunbathed. One of them settled on the handlebars of our bikes. Ian experimented with his
telephoto camera lens. 
Fri 24 Aug
We biked to see the medieval flourmill and Roman bridge at Barbiste, 3 km away. They were worth the effort. We also learnt the story of cork, as at one stage the mill had processed cork. On the way home we checked out a bar to watch tomorrows rugby, (All Blacks v SA). As we wanted to visit the Friday market we took the boat on to Vianne. We were too mean to eat out and enjoyed BBQ pork strips, their burning fat making clouds of smoke.
Sat 25 Aug
We cycled back 4 km to Lavarduc to see the All Blacks beat South Africa on the TV in a bar. Then we biked back to the boat, and left Vianne about 4.30pm for Buzet. We went up the double lock into the Canal about 6pm, moored under trees 100 metres above the port and Ian biked up to the cave for a second 10-litre of AOC wine. We also drank a refreshing white with dinner.
Sun 26 Aug
We relaxed on the boat in the shade and ended the day with drinks on Great Days, with Jill and Derek from Falmouth.
Mon 27 Aug
Very hot. We moved on to Damazon, only ½ an hour away and moored under the trees, shifting sides to get the best benefit of the shade.
Tue 28 Aug
We stopped for lunch on the canal-side in the shade and arrived at Mas d’Argenais in mid-afternoon. We moored at the Halte Public before the bridge. It was an excellent spot; free, with water available and a low quay so that working on the side of the boat and the fenders was easy. So now we have shiny white sides and clean, lined up fenders.
In the lovely 11th century Romanesque Church is a beautiful Rembrandt painting of Christ on the Cross and you can get right up close and see the detail. Fabulous.
Wed 29 Aug
We had a heavy thunderstorm after we went to bed. After tidying up and taking on water, we moved on, stopping for lunch at Port Forques (free for 24 hours with electricity) and talked with Mike and Donna on Falcon Crest who recommended Naval Services at Port St Louis as a winter mooring (on land, the lift in and out are included).
We moored for the night alongside the boat ramp at Meilhan sur Garonne. We walked up the steps to the town with its panoramic viewpoint and history of English occupation until the end of the 100 Years War. A very attractive town.
Thu 30 Aug
During the night Ian had two ideas. Check the shaft and propeller for weed etc and to
use the boat ramp for doing this as well as to clean under the bike platform. It worked
well, the prop etc had only a bit of nylon fishing line and the stern now shines! But we
had to leave in a hurry when a tourist boat arrived, expecting to moor where we were.
So it was on to Castet en Dorthe. The end of the canal and decision time. Should we go on, down the tidal river to Bordeaux? After discussing it with the lock keeper that said it could be difficult to moor at Begler in Bordeaux with our low power in the tide. So a compromise. We won’t go on and will do the Lot next week instead. Nicer say some. Meanwhile we have moored under the trees on canal-side opposite the port.
Fri 31 Aug
We have organised our weekend with the Pougnet Family - Rugby tomorrow with Bernard and family at a Bar in Langon and a cruise with BBQ on Sunday with both families on Erewhon.
We had a quiet day today. We wandered over to the Canadian flagged, Dutch tjalk (22m with a mast and sail which they leave down on the canals) Linquenda owned by Bill and Clementine from British Columbia. After tea we will go back for a few hands of Bridge.
Sat 1 Sep
The 3-handed bridge was fun and we enjoyed our evening of play and banter. Today we messed around until 2pm, when Bernard collected us and we watched the All Blacks get beaten by a good Aussie Team and the referee! Then we had a cup of tea at their house (a village farm house they have recently bought and are doing lots of DIY on). Then Bernard took us to Leclerc’s S/M on the way back to the boat.
Sun 2 Sep
Under the trees, raindrops were bringing down gum and it took a couple of hours to clean of the brown spots. At mid-day Bernard, Brigitte and Dimitri arrived, and shortly after Francisse, Isobelle, Marvin, Tom and Rachel. We had a glorious day and the 10 of us motored up the canal including a lock, with smoke from the BBQ (cooking 9 chicken legs - there were 10 but 1 fell overboard) streaming behind. After big lunch at a canal-side picnic table in the shade, we continued to the next lock, where after waiting for a boat to come down, we entered to quickly and were locked inside. We had to call an eclusier, but it all added to the fun. We turned around and got back to Castet about 6.30pm. All we needed for tea was scraps! One of our best days.
Mon 3 Sep
The return journey begins. A lovely sunny day, with only a few boats as we begin the climb back to Toulouse. The locks are all automatic here, operated by a perch hanging 200 metres before the lock. Unfortunately we had a boat ahead of us, so we had to wait for 7-8 minutes at each lock for it to empty. We took a short lunch break in the shade near Meilhan, where we saw some huge fish grazing below us in the Garonne. Ian did 3 loads of washing today as we travelled to Port de Forques, about 6 km from Marmande. It is quiet, free with electricity and water for 2 nights.
Tue 4 Sep
We biked into Mamande this morning where Ian read the e-mail and checked our bank a/c at a Telecom shop (rather expensive!) But the supermarket was closed for lunch, so we gave it a miss and biked home for a late lunch. We spent the rest of the day at reading and cribbage.
Wed 5 Sep
On to Buzet. Another lovely day, but Ian spent much of it scrubbing the deck to remove the new gum on the decks. We are losing our enthusiasm for parking under the trees! But that’s not so bad now the weather is cooling a bit (10° - 30° ). We both biked up to the cave for some sampling and wine education, our 3rd Bag in the Box and 3 bottles of white. We have a nice mooring above the bridge on the side opposite the two ports.
Thu 6 Sep
We were off at 9.45, down the double lock into the Baise, this time turning downstream and swapping rugby talk with a South African crew on a Connoisseur hire boat as we went down the two locks. From St Leger, on the Garonne, this crew was transported across in a mini-bus and the boat crewed by the VNF, but we drove our own boat with an escort for about ½ an hour (5 km) to the exit lock at Nicole. The river is shallow and has a current of about 10 k/h. Only boats with a draught less than 1 metre are allowed to cross (we are 60cm).
There is a 15-minute cruise up a canal to Aiguillan, and we lunched above the lock here. There is room for 2-3 boats with electricity. After lunch we continued up to Clairac, another bastide town, where we stayed for the night. (free with elec. and water.) It was a pretty town to walk around, with old ½ timbered houses, and a 12th century abbey (on 8th C foundations).
Fri 7 Sep
It was overcast with a bit of drizzle in the morning when we left for the 1-hour trip to Castelmorin sur Lot when it cleared. After lunch and a rest we explored the little town (another bastide) and while selecting a restaurant for dinner saw an empty coiffeur. After an hour of laughter, Franglais with the hairdresser who was taking evening classes in English we paid only F103 for the two of us – less than Lorna’s alone would normally be! And we looked pretty smart too! So now it’s off to our chosen restaurant.
Sat 8 Sep
The dinner was OK too. We both had fish. But an outdoor dinner with music across the river from the port disturbed our sleep until 2.00am. The day started overcast with drizzle. We had a phone call from my sister Margaret and Gerald and were pleased to hear all is well at home. We have good tenants, this year. M & G leave NZ on Monday for Europe and eventually to join us for a week.
At 10.30 we left the port, motored the 1 km to the lock built on the left of a hydro-electric dam, rose 10 metres, passed the Connoisseur hire base, stopping at St Livrade for lunch and stopped for the night at Casseneuil. We enjoyed walking around the recommended route and exploring this old town, with its 4 storied houses backing down to La Lède. The 15th and century was interesting but we were once again reminded of the dangers to life before the 17th Century especially until the 12 century.
Again the port is free with electricity and water – though you have to know that the 12-hour timer is within reach through the fence of the nearby rowing club.
Sun 9 Sep
We slept in, and then had another short walk around town. The Poles and English on the
two hire boats left early, and we after lunch also for Villeneuve sur Lot. Oops; I had
reached this point and remembered that we had attached our two small fenders to the
pontoon, and they were still there. So it was about turn to collect them. 30 minutes
extra. Villeneuve is a larger town, with an attractive port associated with a new
amphitheatre overlooking a stage built out over the river. Again it has water and
electricity free for 2 days. We had a walk around the town, a BBQ dinner and another round
of the "World Cribbage Champs".
Mon 10 Sep
We stocked up at a small Intermarché, motored back to Casseneuil for lunch and then on to Castelmorin for the night. There was no sign of a lock keeper at the lock, and no response to a round from our new Klaxon, so we moored and Ian walked along to the cabin. He was sound asleep on the floor! I don’t know how long the hire boat with Aussies on it had been waiting to go up.
Tue 11 Sep
We noticed that the water had risen and fallen overnight as the Hydro station changed its use of the water. We rang Rob Prince on his roaming mobile and got him on a coach on his way to Dover. We have arranged to meet him on Thursday in Nérac, as it is such a lovely port. It is a short bus ride from Argen where we had planned to meet him. This settled, we departed for Aiguillon, the last Port on the Lot. When we got there we turned on the BBC and heard of the unfolding events in the US. We also checked out the town and looked for a newsagent and boulangerie for the morning.
Wed 12 Sep
Ian walked in the fog for the bread and paper, inspecting the huge fish in the river below the bridge. It was a lovely day when we continued with some trepidation on the canal to the Nicole lock into the Garonne. Would we have sufficient power to beat the current on the Garonne? We didn’t, but were just holding our own when the tiny Tom Pouce (Tom Thumb) with its two Johnson 40’s and a special front end got behind us and pushed us for about 2 km. All of this service of piloting down and escorting and pushing back up was supposed to cost FF100 each way, but because the original boat was underpowered and this was a makeshift, and that a service was essential for the hire boats we got it for free. It took 50 minutes, only 20 minutes longer than the trip down, to reach the Baise lock. We stopped at the river mooring for lunch in glorious sun. A South African family, on a hire boat, who were considering buying a Prince like ours came aboard and we had a lovely hour showing our boat off. We met a number of boats as we continued up the Baise to Vianne to moor for the night along with 6 other boats. We found the electricity supply on this, our 3rd visit!
Thu 13 Sep
It was a sunny start, deteriorating as the day continued. After 2 hours we arrived in Nérac about mid-day. We checked the bus timetable and rang Rob with the details as he travelled south in the TGV. Then we stocked up at the Supermarket and met Rob at 7.10pm. We talked and ate until 11pm.
Fri 14 Sep
There was rain during the night and still some drizzle in the morning. We showed Rob the town and left after lunch for Vianne where Rob and Ian inspected the walls, glass factory, church and the old toll bridge. It was a full port.
Sat 15 Sep
We enjoyed the sun, mended bicycles and talked to a couple from Wallesey on the Mersey who have a narrow boat moored with Rob’s! After lunch we pulled out for Buzet. Three hireboats with French crews were moored against us, and when they let go so we could leave, they let go the wrong end of the rope and drifted out, still in a raft of three boats, with some on the back of each boat still eating and drinking and the others starting motors and generally creating chaos. As we came out of the lock some minutes later we could still see hilarious disorganisation, and most were still eating and laughing.
Near Buzet, a boat seemed lost and even went under some trees and swept a table off the upper deck that miraculously fell just inside a rail on the lower deck. We offered help, but the elderly driver’s main concern was "Am I on the Baise? Which way to Vianne?!!" We pointed them in the right direction and then continued up the double lock, moored in our spot opposite the ports and all cycled up to the Buzet ‘Boozer’ for another tasting (just for Rob’s sake, of course!) and bought another 10L bag in box and 3 bottles.
Sunday 16 Sep
It was a cool but clear day and we moved on to Argen, doing 3 loads of laundry as we went. We enjoyed the aqueduct over the Garonne, taking several photos and moored opposite the Locaboat base.
Mon 17 Sep
We inspected the town (it was market day with hundreds of stalls down the street), went to the museum made from 4 old and magnificent houses, and tried to access our e-mail. Rob was successful, but we had trouble and used his to send a message to Manukau asking them to check. We will return Wed to see what happens. Then we motored on to Boé where we moored below a bridge and loaded 212 litres of Diesel. At FF519 it was F35 dearer than last time but we were concerned that prices might go even higher after the Twin Towers attack. Lorna and Rob did the supermarket shopping.
Tue 18 Sep
We shopped at Mr Bricolage and bought 10 sheets of foil covered polystyrene as used to insulate walls against fireplace heat. We have cut and taped two up two to fit our windows and they seem ideal to improve both privacy and give more warmth on cooler nights as well as cooling on sunny days. We are now back in Argen about 200 metres south of the Locaboat base on an ideal mooring.
Wed 19 Sep
Still no joy on the internet, so after buying veggies from an open market we headed on to Valence d’Argen doing a load of washing on the way. We also cut up some more of the insulation sheets, as the ones already in place had been very successful. When we used all of them tonight, the difference in comfort level was huge. Tonight we have talked with three different English crews on yachts heading for the Med some to live-aboard for the winter.
Thu 20 Sep
A warmer day after the early cloud cleared and as the temperature rose over 30° we are eating outside again. This morning the 3 of us cycled to Philippe’s favourite old village Auvillar, which we all loved. We had Lipton’s peach flavoured cold tea with pastries for lunch on the banks of the Garonne before cycling the 5 km back to the boat.
Later Rob and Ian did some more of the insulation and we ate dinner outside though we moved inside straight after.
Fri 21 Sep
After the clouds had cleared we moved on to Moissac. At the last lock before town the lock keeper told us of reports of a bad explosion in Toulouse. With the temperature in the 30’s again we showed Rob the Abbey and its associated church. Again Ian had a problem with the e-mail. And again it was warm enough to eat dinner outside before moving in to play cribbage.
Sat 22 Sep
We had a ring from Paula planning a visit while her parents, Margaret and Gerald are here. We also read that the explosion in Toulouse was indeed large (30 dead and the housing of 30,000 affected). A fertiliser factory had gone up in the suburbs. The weather though still mild has turned to light drizzle. We walked to see an old church begun in the 4th century, though much modified. We came back past an old mill on the river, a huge building that had been converted into a hotel, which also wasn’t successful. A sad sight. We nearly finished the insulation today. A Dutch boat about the size of a peniche, but a converted oil boat called Shell V is now moored behind us. We have admired it several times on the canal
.
Sun 23 Sep
Bad news. We can’t proceed to Castelsarrasin as the canal has been closed because of the pollution from the Garonne River where it feeds the canal near Toulouse. There was no further information. So Ian and Rob walked to the supermarket, which was closed (they usually open on Sunday mornings); Lorna and Rob went to the Antique Fair and bought nothing. Meanwhile the drizzle continued intermittently all day and we finished the insulation panels, read and finished the evening with cribbage.
Mon 24 Sep
Still no news on opening the canal – could be today or 4 days! Ian succeeded with email today at a youth club that is only F10 for an hour. He transferred all the MIT messages to another file to reduce the amount to read each time. We had a message from Tolly and Jas and the Groves in the North of France.
Tue 25 Sep
Ever hopeful, but no more news about when we can continue. A small circus arrived in town today and trucks with camels etc aboard cruise the town to advertise it. Rob is developing his relationship with the lady at the boulangerie. We spent time with Nell and Fritz, the Dutch couple on Shell V and got advice and info on the Netherlands and also the Berlin lakes, which they have toured and Nell has written about in a yachting journal. The Tarn et Garonne Cribbage Champs continued tonight.
Wed 26 Sep
Today Rob and Ian rode their bikes to Castelsarrasin along the towpath. Two of the pounds are empty and a third almost so. They appear to be using this water to keep the pounds with boats in them full. We spoke to several UK boaties moored there.
Thu 27 Sep
Still here. We investigated the museum today; it was in a lovely old house and we found it interesting. Then we climbed up to a viewpoint overlooking the two rivers, which join near here. The Tarn valley is huge. The cribbage champs ended tonight 6-6-6. Rob must go tomorrow to get to the airport for his flight home.
Fri 28 Sep
We’re away. Several people brought us messages about 9am and we departed with Shell V in front at 9.15. It was a bit slow as the water levels were low and we stirred up a lot of mud at first, but we made Grisolles 9 hours later. We are next to a station. As the train would not get him there 3 hours before departure as advised, we looked for a taxi (none), or rental car (too late). We eventually agreed that 3 hours was excessive for a domestic flight, so bought a train ticket for 7.10am to Toulouse, where he would get either a bus or taxi to the airport. We had a nice meal and wine and off to bed.
Sat 29 Sep
We were up at 6.15am, walked with Rob to the train, and as it was still dark lay down until 8.35, when we set out for Toulouse ourselves. We had arranged by phone last night to meet the Pougnets and Kollers at Lespinasse Lock around 12.00 and we went up the lock at 11.30. After some small confusion, which had them running along the towpath chasing an English yacht, we all shared an enjoyable lunch before the Pougnets headed for Paris and we continued with the Kollers to Toulouse. We left a bike at the 6-metre lock opposite the railway station for Paula who we were to meet at 6pm and continued to St Sauveur Port, which now had the electricity, but hadn’t yet introduced the charges! After a quick visit to the Casino S/M , Gerald and Ian cycled to the station and met Paula (with the help of cell phones!).
Sunday 30 Sep
We inspected the town, especially the market and St Sernin cathedral, which is spectacular, and the Capitolle and its Square. After lunch, at 3pm we left port so that Paula could have some experience of canalling. We moored for the night at Ecluse Ayguesvives after being assisted through the previous lock 10 minutes after closing time by an enthusiastic group of children.
Mon 1 Oct
As soon as the lock opened we started, still eating our breakfast. After a false stop near Villefranche de Laurengais, where we found it impossible to cross the motorway, we continued 2 km to the next lock and walked on the road over the motorway and back to the station, with plenty of time for Paula to catch a 12.39 train. We also saw the spectacular bell tower, with a wall of spaces, each containing a bell. The after 12 serenade was beautiful.
After lunch we continued with a Melbourne couple, Graham and Alex Cooper, on a CBL hire boat to Port de Lauragais, where we both moored and enjoyed a couple of bottles of wine. Ian and Gerald biked up to the nearby Avignonet Lauragais, built inside a wall, high on a hill. But we were unsuccessful in getting our wine cash filled.
Tue 2 Oct – Joanne’s Birthday
We rang her, so she could call back – how mean can you get!? It was fine, but with a blustery wind which got stronger as the day went on. Margaret and Gerald inspected the Rugby Museum as we filled with water. While doing this we saw the CBL (Crown Blue Line) boat with our registration number again and identified and photographed it. But we were delayed at the first lock by a lazy lock keeper and a then having to wait for a commercial boat. So really we set out after dinner. The wind made lock work difficult, and we had several multiple locks.
We stopped at La Segala to see Peter and Caroline from Lurley who
live there. Unfortunately Caroline was bed-ridden. We reached Castelnaudary at 6pm, tired
and we had some difficulty mooring against the wind. Then we walked up to a caveau and
filled our cubie after a tasting. We also stocked up at the supermarket.
Later we decided to move the boat a couple of metres and Ian fell backward off the
foredeck on to his buttocks on the stone quay when the rope slipped off the forward cleat.
The others finished fastening the boat, and helped a shivering crewmember aboard into his
bed where he wrapped up and had a panadol. We were very lucky it wasn’t more serious.
Wed 3 Oct
Ian hobbled and the others walked around Castelnaudary. We told CBL of the duplicated number and it appears it has the right digits, but in the wrong order. TO561 instead of TO651. The wind had abated a little, and after sending and receiving emails we headed down the quadruple lock and stopped above the next one so that we could bike to the Geant Supermarket. WE went down 3 more locks before mooring above St Sermin for the night. We had just made fast when the sky opened. We BBQed the salmon steaks between showers.
Thu 4 Oct
We got our payback for the nasty wind and rain with a beautiful sunny day. We worked on the bikes before leaving and Margaret and Gerald cycled a couple of pounds (the canal between two locks). After lunch at Villepinte, we stopped for the night at Villesquelande, walked into the village for another cubie of wine from the co-op, and barbecued our dinner and ate it in the setting sun on the stern deck enjoying the lovely view over the valley. We played some crib tonight.
Fri 5 Oct
It was cloudy but warm today as we continued on to Carcassonne with its magnificent fortress. We were going to moor in the port until we were told it would cost F110 per night, so we moved on a km where there is good mooring on the canal-side. It was pleasant cruising followed by a walk through the main shopping street. We walked in very light drizzle to a nearby restaurant for dinner.
Sat 6 Oct
It was a warm but cloudy day and after a bit of shopping and lunch, we walked up to the Cité. We all enjoyed our afternoon exploring this tourist trap with its magnificent, historic environment. We stayed on for dinner in a café in the square and caught a taxi home.
Sun 7 Oct
We were up at 6.15 for Margaret and Gerald to catch the 7.45am train to Paris, Lois and then home. After a lazy morning, in brilliant sunshine and 30° temperatures, we moved on to Trebes, only 10 km away. It is a pleasant town and this time we moored free in the town opposite the Connoisseur base. We bought another copy of the poster we had bought here in 1992, so Lorna could replace the faded copy. We missed the Kollers at dinnertime especially as we had enough pork for four. Never mind, stew tomorrow.
Mon 10 Oct
It was a beautiful day and as we prepared to leave we saw Saxon Chieftain. We spoke with Barbara as Andy was working at the base for the winter. About 11 we headed on, Ian doing a load of washing as we went. It was a pleasant journey down treble and double locks to La Redorte, which was full, so we had to moor along the bank. We enjoyed the company of some Brits in a hire boat, but had to laugh as they learnt their skills in what was their first lock. One of the boats got hooked up as the water drained out of the lock with the strakes of the boat catching on the side, and brute strength was needed to push it off. Little damage, as the water continued to fall!
Tue 9 Oct
We had a restful day, reading, stocking up at the local Intermarché and applying an inspirational idea to glue short self-adhesive magnetic strips to the top edges of the insulation panels and the matching place at the top of the windows to hold them in place. We haven’t used them for a week or so, but they will be needed again soon.
Wed 10 Oct
It was a lovely day. The sun is back, we did a brief exploration of Homps where there is a Connoisseur base as well as a public port. We bought 6 nice wineglasses for best. We spent the night just after the bridge by the town of Paraza, which has three wineries and is built on a cliff overlooking the Aude Valley.
Thu 11 Oct
The sun still shines. We had lunch by the caveau at Ventenac (a museum as well as a wine wholesaler). After sampling, Ian asked for 4 litres of Corbières and 1 of Merlot in the cask. The blend is a nice wine. On, through the lovely La Somail bridge and on to the branch to La Nouvelle and Narbonne.
We went down five locks each operated by the crew using a
5-digit code 1995E. With a crew of two it’s a nuisance having to put someone ashore
to operate the controls, but we managed without too much trouble. Coming up is the worst
as you have to climb the ladder to close the gates and start rising. We stopped above the
sixth lock, a 6-metre manual lock at Sallèles d’Aude, and shouted ourselves a pastry
each.
Fri 12 Oct
After another beautiful manual lock, we crossed the Aude and continued 10 km to
Narbonne. The entry to the town is fascinating with pleasure boats moored all the way into
the town. Then after going down the interesting Narbonne lock, you go under the Merchants
Bridge. One arch of this bridge, which has shops and houses on it, has been here for over
two millennia and a piece of the Roman Road which crossed it has been uncovered in the
street above. That’s old! We have a photo of Lorna standing on it. We moored in a
space about 200 metres later. It has water and electricity and is free for 24 hours, but
we haven’t seen anyone checking. The boat in front of us is the home of a British
couple who are wintering here.
After checking the cost of a rental car, we decided to buy train tickets to Barcelona for the weekend.
Sat 13 Oct
We left Narbonne at 8am, changed to a Spanish train at Port Bou on the Spanish side of the Border after a perfunctory customs inspection and arrived in Barcelona at 12.30. We got a hotel booking and tourist info at the station and took a metro to the hotel. After dropping our pack, we explored the old city on foot. The Cathedral is opulent and magnificent, the old buildings are connected by overhead bridges and we saw our first Gaudi building – the Griiel Palace an ornate but compact rich man’s house with many innovative features. Then we walked to the waterfront to see the boats, but rain sent us scurrying before we got far and we finished the night with a Spanish style fish meal at a restaurant next to the hotel. What a fascinating city
!
Sun 14 Oct
We walked to Place Catalanya and caught a Bus Turista, which does one of two intersecting circular routes. We saw several other Gaudi buildings en route to the Gaudi Cathedral, which is still being completed more than 100 years after starting it. (very common in Europe) Extravagant, exuberant, ornate. Fabulous. Then we changed buses and saw the recent developments in the city. The Olympic buildings, huge harbour, overhead cable-cars and much more. We stopped in Place Catalanya again for some lunch and then our whole attitude to the town changed. Even after being warned he was being followed, a pickpocket rushed Ian and pushing him around got his wallet from his pocket. Ian ran after him yelling for a short distance, but discretion got the better part of valour, and we were guided to the local cop-shop. First a call to Visa to cancel the card, then a form to complete, a copy of which will be needed for insurance claims. Fortunately we had divided our small cash withdrawal at the station on arrival between the two of us and Ian had paid for dinner, so we only lost about $300 in cash. We got back on the tourist bus to the railway station (Ian’s ticket was in his wallet, but the conductor believed our story. The rail tickets were in the pack.) Back to the station where we ate our first Macdonald’s Burger for years (and were reminded why we don’t buy them!). We got back to Narbonne feeling that we were home and safe. We never feel threatened here in France, but I guess Paris is a bit like any other European capital.
Mon 15 Oct
We made phone calls to Visa to arrange a replacement card, and to our NZ bank to cancel Ian’s Cashcard but not the account as Lorna’s card was our lifeline until we got new credit cards in Bèziers later in the week. We also climbed the keep by the bridge today. A great experience and a good viewpoint. But we have decided not to continue to Port Nouvelle. We saw it and the canal from the train and it didn’t enthuse us.
Tue 16 Oct
With a lovely blue sky and mid twenties temperatures, we headed for Bezièrs to collect our card. It will take a couple of days. As we left the Canal de Robine, we saw Linquenda, the tjalk with the Canadian crew moored on the Midi and stopped to catch up on news. After 7 hours we stopped for the night at Capestang, which was crowded, many of the boats being over wintering peniches.
Wed 17 Oct
We had a quiet cruise from Capestang, through the Malpas Tunnel with no locks until we reached the top of the Fonserannes flight where we stopped for lunch. We had a calm descent in 40 minutes and arrived in Bezièrs at 2.30pm. We walked up the hill to the bank at the top of Boulevard Pierre Riquet where we had to help the bank staff document the receipt of our new credit cards since all of the instructions were in English! We were pleased to confirm the cards were working by buying some groceries. Michael rang to discuss arrangements for a visit by him and Sorella next week.
Thu 18 Oct
It was windy with some showers and we stayed in Bezièrs. Ian painted the aft deck with paint left from last year.
Fri 19 Oct
Again there were showers and wind, but enough spaces to paint the rest of the decks. It looks good. We are enjoying our free stay in the port, complete with electricity and water.
Sat 20 Oct
There was a heavy thunderstorm before we rose this morning, which we have later heard had smashed 30 caravans 15 km further down the canal from here. We have both finished the books, which have enthralled us.
Sun 21 Oct
It was a lovely day and we took the opportunity to walk through the old town, including the 11th century churches in which thousands were slaughtered when the Popes Legates attacked the Albigeois (Cathars) with the instruction "Kill them all; God will recognise his own"
Mon 22 Oct (Labour Day in NZ)
It was a clear, though cooler day, and as we have had no news from Michael, we have moved on to Agde. Ian topped up the cubie with a blend and we roasted our leg of NZ lamb. It was superb and we will get two more meals from it.
Tue 23 Oct
We went up the round lock, crossed the Herault River and down to the Etang de Thau. It was a lovely day, crystal clear with a light breeze causing a small chop. We entered the port at Marseillan in time for lunch. As it is low season the mooring costs F61 rather than the F154 in high summer. There is a supermarket close to the port, so Ian took the opportunity to fill the diesel tank with 210 litres, using the bike and trailer. The lamb was almost as nice cold!
Wed 24 Oct
It was another beautiful, sunny day with a crisp breeze. After doing the washing we motored out, around the oyster beds to Mèze. The gentle chop wasn’t Lorna’s favourite cruising, but 1½ hours later we were moored here. It is full of rigged yachts, as there is high access to the Med. through Sete. We had a lazy afternoon, though we weren’t impressed to hear the news that diesel prices fell today by F15/litre.
Thu 25 Oct
Today we have moved on to Bouziques (3/4 of an hour around the oyster beds). There is only room for 3 casual boats (we were 2nd and a Locaboat with a family from the Scilly Isles came later). We made the most of a gorgeous day and ate our lunch around our table on the breakwater by the boat. It is a small town with many restaurants specialising in seafood, for the summer crowds. Tonight we sampled one, and although we enjoyed the meal, couldn’t help comparing the size of the shellfish with those in NZ.
Fri 26 Oct
We were grateful that no one came to collect the mooring fee of F53 (F182 in summer). It was a clear sunrise, but as it clouded with the forecast fresh wind blowing up, we weren’t sorry to leave the Etang. We ate our lunch as we waited till 1pm for the lifting railway bridge at Frontignan to open. We sighted a low mooring on the east side of the bridge, which was a suitable height for cleaning, and painting the lower part of the sides of the boat.
Saturday 27 Oct
Ian painted the strakes white with aluminium coloured metal strips. The coffee and fat stains from the galley drain are gone and it all looks a lot tidier.
We saw Tournesol (from the Rhone last year) passing through and should see them later today or tomorrow.
Lorna has a cold and is miserable. We topped up our cubie with wine at the local caveau and headed along the Canal de Rhone a Sete at 4.15pm. The temperature still reads 21° .
We ran out of light and stopped just after the mobile bridge to the beach and Abbey at Maguelonne. We tried to moor on the seaward side before the bridge, but the canal seems at a higher level and in the strong wind tonight, we could have been damaged by a submerged concrete wall. So we are moored to a secure jetty by the restaurant peniche.
Sun 28 Oct
The wind has gone and it is a glorious day. We are now at Palavas, where we are moored at Port Riquet on the Les River. It is basic but expensive for this time of the season at F103. This is a modern town to entertain the masses in summer. We biked around and were tempted to go up the lighthouse/visitors centre to see the view.
Mon 29 Oct
Another clear and fine day. We lazed, emailed and shopped at the supermarket. We also spent time talking with Mike and Liz on Tournesol who are moored behind us. Their boat has been shot-blasted and repainted a blue rather than the sunflower gold it was last summer. It is a lovely, roomy home. They will check out our boat during the winter in Beaucaire.
We left town at 4.30pm to avoid another night of fees and tonight we are on the canal-side near La Grand Motte, watching a glorious sunset and the rabbits feeding on the grass with the white horses. Dinner was a successful experiment with a packet of duck’s gizzard in a salad. We had this because Ian had enjoyed it so much at our best restaurant meal.
Tuesday 30 Oct.
The sun stays with us and the temperatures were in the high 20’s. After polishing the rust off the chromium rails on our stern shelter, we motored on to the Vidourle R and down it to le Grau du Roi (Channel of the King, from which Louis left on the Crusades). We used our tyres and moored against some rocky wave protections on the canal bank. After lunch we wandered down to the sea, past the pleasure moorings, and the fishing boat moorings through the shops (mainly food, clothes and souvenirs for tourists) to the beach and harbour entrance. There was a beach each side of the breakwater that jutted straight out into the Med. We could see resorts each way from skyline to skyline and wondered why we had avoided them in summer when they were warm enough to swim, crowded and expensive. Maybe that answered our own question!
We continued up the canal, through the Aigues Mortes port tucked below the walls of this ancient city. We noted the bronzed bodies of those on board the boats that would remain for the winter. We continued 1 km past the commercial harbour and are now moored in a disused lock only 100 metres from a Champion supermarket and 300 metres from an Intermarché (with diesel at F4.90).
Wed 31 Oct
It was overcast and we went to the market for veggies and ½ a ready grilled chicken. Then we made a cycle circuit of the walled town. It was cleaner than it was with bulls when we were here 3 years ago. After lunch Ian cycled for a refill of the white wine and also took a quick look at the moorings described in Laurel and Bill Cooper’s book. Later we had drinks with Gay and Ann Rogers from Dublin preparing for winter on their Dutch built cruiser Tiko. It was good fun.
Thur 1 Nov (All Saints Day a holiday in France when they place chrysanthemums on the family graves)
During the night we were hit by strong winds, the first autumn mistral. We decided to stay another night. Gay and Ann came down to check out our insulation and we checked out their new futon style bed base. We promptly checked out the supermarket before it shut at mid-day and FF249 later had our own. It just needed to be reduced from 200X160 cm to 180x125 tapered!! A good job for Ian and it is ready for testing tonight. Then a few more drinks with Ann and Gay.
Friday 2 Nov
The bed was a success. Not an inner spring, but the next best. So we left for St Gilles at 10.15 into the weakening mistral. But there was no one at the base so we continued on to Beaucaire. But we were stopped at the lock before Beaucaire that closed at 5.00pm – just as we arrived.
Sat 3 Nov
We’re here! Snugly moored bow in with 4amp of electricity, which just copes with our hot water jug, or the heater on low heat. We talked with Jas and Tolly and shared lunch with them.
Sun 4 Nov
Ian changed the oil and diesel filters with no problems this time. The heater stayed on until the power went off at 9pm. - again! Ian is to with other boaties to meet with the Council about this.
Mon 5 Nov
We tidied up and entertained Tolly and Jas and also Roger and Jean from Chantal with lunch that lasted till tea! A great day.
Tue 6 Nov
Still nice, though cool weather. Ian rewired the 12-volt distribution board. Now it will charge with the gauges on or off. He also fitted another cigarette lighter socket so the solar charger can be left at the stern of the boat over winter.
Wed 7 Nov
It’s cold today. The mistral is back. We cleaned the bikes and Lorna started packing. In the afternoon Roger and Jean took us to Nimes where we picked up our rental. We drove back via Palavas where Ian had left his diary at the email place.
Thu 8 Nov
The cold mistral still blew, drying our wash quickly. We both did some packing and then shared dinner on Calando with Tolly and Jas.
Fri 9 Nov
Paul Few from Crown Blue came up on his day off to check the engine, taking away the injectors for cleaning. He also checked the prop shaft for movement (OK) and we wont need to take the boat out until the end of next season when it will be left ashore in the Netherlands. Later Ian winterised the boat. He drained the hot and cold reservoirs and lines, including the taps and poured antifreeze into the toilet. Paul will need to winterise the canal side of the engine cooling when he starts the engine with the cleaned tappets. We had to walk all round town in the cold wind to find a restaurant and again to the hole in the wall as they didn’t take the card! But we enjoyed our last meal with Tolly and Jas.
Sat 10 Nov
Lorna took Jas and Tolly to the station for their trip home to Brisbane and then we left for Montpellier Airport. We had some concern when it took longer than Ian thought, but the airline had rescheduled our flight an hour later and didn’t have a contact for us. So we were in good time, even having time to return to check-in to deposit in our baggage the scissors they found in our toilet gear! From 2pm we were on our way to London for 2 weeks with the kids, then home for summer warmth and to earn some more for next year.