Ian and Lorna Hampton on EREWHON : Living on the French Canals
Friday, June 25
At last; Montpellier. The delight of sun and warm – probably mid 20s. A modern concrete airport. The relief at seeing the "bike box" still in one piece. The delight at no customs to convince that our equipment, tools etc would leave the country with us.
Six car rental firms but no cars, so try the taxi rank – just in time to see an "Espace" drive off leaving two medium cabs for all of our luggage. But no trouble. The Bike box hanging out the back door, luggage in the front seat and us on the small split seat, watching the taxi meter tick up – but it was still less than a rental, and no worries to return. Sixty to seventy kilometres to St Gilles with French lessons from our friendly driver thrown in at no extra charge.
Apricots are in season. The grapes are set and growing. At last, St
Gilles and the quay. Looking for our boat – nearly passed it when Lorna recognised
the new green stripe. Unloaded all the luggage. Vaughan meets us - the engine is running
to top up the batteries and heat the water. After a photo, two weary people start to load
the bags aboard; too much for Lorna who tripped and grazed her knee, bruised her chin, and
severely damaged her pride.
After assistance from Vaughan, a walk to a small shop for some milk, drink (greatly needed) butter and half a ‘pain’, it’s home for a light snack and an early night.
Saturday, June 26
Jet lagged, we woke about 4.00am, dozed to 7.00, then got up, had our first baguette, and sorted our gear. We then discovered that the tape wrapped around a case hid the lack of locks that had been screwdrivered off. Not a lot missing, except he’d fancied Lorna’s new knickers! The sheets and plumbing fittings hadn’t been up to standard!? Not too bad considering all we had taken.
Then it was out with the bikes. First I re-assembled the Hustler from New Zealand; then our first ride to the supermarket, with a horrifically long list. After over an hour (I was frozen in just a T-shirt and shorts in the air-conditioning) we loaded up the bike carriers and back to lunch. While in the supermarket, heard All Blacks had beaten France. Score??
Beautiful cheese, baguette. Jet lag and tiredness kept us to pottering. Tried to start boat to recharge batteries. Only partially successful; cut out as soon as the throttle opened and smoked. Gave up to reconsider and seek advice. Turned off fridge to maintain batteries. Lovely meal of saucisse, new potatoes and salad but the red wine from Domaine de Nimes was not a great success. Lorna went to bed soon after and at 9.30 Ian followed.
Sunday, June 27
Both woke early. Discussed shopping lists etc about 4.00am. Listened to Town Hall clock strike the hours until fell asleep until 8.00am. What a breakfast! Muesli, fried potatoes, a whole baguette with honey, and Ian’s first cup of tea. Then showers at the Crown Blue depot – lovely. Vaughan advised on starting motor; he had stopped it in gear (see below). So after a cup of coffee, we started the motor easily, warmed up and went up the Beaucaire canal a couple of kilometres. Then a half-hour of ‘parking’, turning and generally both of us getting the feel of the boat again – some tension at times! We left boat idling and had lunch, more manoeuvres and then back to St Gilles, mooring near the workshop ready for Monday.
We tried the washing drum! Not a big load but covered in soapy water, tied behind the boat. Back at shore, drained and double rinsed, lightly hand wrung and hung to dry on a small rack. Played a couple of our tapes after looking for something on the radio. Pork chops simmered in the pan, fresh green beans and potatoes with a muscat wine aperitif and followed by the Nimes disaster, somewhat improved by leaving overnight! We seem to be gradually adjusting to time (by now you lot at home will be at work for a new week.)
While getting the bread I found the Sunday market – we both spent an hour wandering through, buying a lovely tablecloth, some juicy apricots and fresh beans.
Monday, June 28
A work day. Awake as usual about 4, but off to sleep again. The bells chime the hours – two sets of them. We were expecting help to install the x-split, inverter and VHF, but no one came. So Ian fixed the brackets for the French and New Zealand ensigns to the roof. They look smart and effective. Then Ian measured for shelves above the sink and in the lounge cupboards. But confusion at the Timber shop; they not only cut the shelves, but a piece the size of the overall size. However they were most generous in accepting the fault and refunded the cost. So now they are ready to cut by hand. Lorna made a trip on her own bicycling to the supermarket.
We had planned to book for the test for a Permit de Conduire, the driving permit needed for non-transiting boats. However 8 days notice is needed to sit the test and the next test is in 7 days so we would have to wait another 20 days. We have decided to take the risk and book to sit the test at St Jean de Losne.
Then we fixed the computer generated EREWHON signs to the sides and the machine carved wooden plaque from the McKenzies on the stern. They look really classy and take away the last of the Crown Blue Line look. The fancy thermometer from the MIT staff was fixed in place, and a walk to the Old town hardware got us a good set of pantry containers.
Then after 5, a leisurely motor down the canal to recharge the batteries a bit, and a lovely salad for tea with some of the 8F/litre red we bought at the local caveau. We also bought 1 litre of their Muscat – much nicer – a beautiful but a bit more expensive bulk wine. 9.50 and it’s still 23 deg C, I hope we get our helper tomorrow.
Tuesday, June 29
At last we have got the electrician and the inverter and x-split are installed. We have power for the computer, cake mixer and whatever else we need. We also have a connection for power from the pier. I got the extra shelves cut ready to fit in the galley and in the saloon cupboard. Tomorrow we would have had very little done.
The day started with Ian having his first run since leaving NZ. By 7 the temperature was already 21C but a pleasant humidity. The morning was a relief after the day before with cloud until mid-day. Just right for chores. Lorna packed kitchen containers and cleaned up while Ian did the interesting things! We don’t know the cost but will find out tomorrow!
Anyway it looks good for a start to Arles on Thursday.
We have commented on the long evenings. I could write until 9.30 without the light on.
Wednesday, June 30
Ian had a run over the hill of St Giles. The high water tower had been visible from miles away. But the huge 5-storey lock of flats was a surprise. It was the only place he had seen people walking about outside in the morning. But they were tidy and there wasn’t a lot of vandalism. But on a quiet road behind them were the signs of five torched cars!
That day I bought some plywood and cut it, ready for assembling at a later time into boxes for storage and easier access to food and tools. Ian paid the FF400 for the electrical work and settled with Crown Blue for the insurance and registration they had paid on our account. Lorna stocked up the larder.
We bought the stamps fiscal (FF250 and FF400) which we needed for Ian’s permit de conduire (driver’s licence) . Because of the cost we decided that only one of us would get the Permit.
Thursday, 1 July
Ian and Vaughan Ashby completed the application for a permit. CBL had consistently advised that arranging the examination for the permit was a formality, but had found out that at the last moment that 8 days for processing were needed before the examination date. The next day at Beaucaire was 21 July by which time we had planned to be in St Jean de Losne! But they assured us that the important thing was to have the application in and that a date arranged in St Jean de Losne would be satisfactory, and that we could continue in the meantime.
So at 2.45 pm we set off. A nearly full tank of fuel and a lot of excitement to be under way at last. Our preparation at St Gilles had gone quite well.
But disaster waited. We passed the VNF inspectors checking papers about 15 minutes from St Gilles and later as we entered the lock at the Petit Rhone they followed us in and asked for our papers. They were all OK except for the permit de conduire. Attempts in our poor French to explain were unacceptable. " No permit, no driving!!!" was the consistent answer and we were ordered back to St Gilles. I requested the assistance of a CBL staff member to translate, but although things were clearer, they didn’t improve much.
A bit of light relief while the gendarme waited for a van to bring the charge book and all details were taken down. At least we weren’t in handcuffs! The fact that we had already applied was a good mark and would be considered, but in the meantime the boat couldn’t leave St Giles until Ian got his permit! What a miserable evening. Compounded with temperatures about 40 degrees, we lost our appetite and didn’t sleep well.
Friday, 2 July
We were up early to have breakfast and plan the day and weeks ahead. Corrine in CBL office was very helpful Vaughan was away. We would be able to stay on free of charge at the port; she rang around the VNF offices to find the earliest available examination day (at Avignon on 16 July), St Jean de Losne to get the original application back, and nearly every car hire firm to get a rental car for us as we still had to meet Frank at 3.19 that day at Arles. It all fell into place, Ian got the car from the airport at 2 pm . collected Lorna at the boat and we were in Arles in plenty of time to see a lone young man carrying a heavy bag from almost the back of the train. I think we were all grateful to see each other.
Arles is an old Roman town. The city centre is all old and dominated by the roman arena. We paid our FF15 each and half for an embarrassed Frank and walked into the huge place being prepared for a weekend of bullfighting. Not much changes! The height of the structure is unexpected as were the crypt-like structures below the spectator stand. Not a lot else attracted us and we drove back to the boat (seeing a large paddock of sunflowers in flower. Frank was of course disappointed not to be boating much, but we will try to make the most of it.
Saturday, 3 July
Up at 7 to buy the baguette and some fishing gear. We see lots of fishermen though not many fish caught. In the sewer called a canal we wouldn’t eat the fish but they are a challenge!
As we won’t be motoring much in the coming two weeks we bought a battery charger to keep the fridge, lights and water pumps going.
After lunch we drove to "la plaige" at St Marie de la Mer. The beach was busy, not crowded and the water reasonably warm. With the air a warm 35 degrees we dried off quickly and appreciated the swim. So tonight we are much more comfortable. Our fishing tonight wasn’t a great success and Frank is now playing snap or something with the Spanish boys on the next boat.
Sunday, 4 July
A run before breakfast and Ian noticed the preparations for the Sunday market. After breakfast and showers we wandered around the market, only two streets away under the trees of wide avenue. We really only wanted fruit and veggies which are cheap at the moment, especially the seconds. We got nectarines, apricots, a couple of small melons and haricot beans. Then it was off to Avignon.
The road approached the Rhone above the Vallabregues lock, and we were pleased to see it was like a large lake with little traffic on it. It was only an hour to Villeneuve les Avignon and we drove around the old town looking for the information centre. That’s when we found that the Palais des Papes was on the other side of the river. No you don’t cross the Pont d’Avignon, but rather a couple of more modern structures. Along side are the arches of a pair of new bridges for the TGV.
The old town of Avignon is a walled city surrounded by the more recent expansions. We wended our way through the narrow streets and like good kiwis found a car park which was free! We took our picnic lunch and sat on the bank of the Rhone between the Port de Plaisance and the Pont d’Avignon. Only four of the original arches are still standing, but it extends about ¾ of the way across the left arm of the river. Then we went into the ville and paid our 17-Franc each plus 13F for an embarrassed Frank who is 5 months older than the definition of un enfant! For our fee we also got a hand-piece with a commentary in English describing the bridge and its history. In the end we felt it was good value.
Those popes certainly knew how to live in style. The palace was huge and recently has been going through a process of renovation. We ran into our Spanish neighbours from St Giles and Frank went off with their boys to the park while we looked through a church – Frank hates looking through churches!
The on to Carpentra to have tea with Paule and Rene Clavel whose wedding we had attended at Weymouth with Heather and Lacksman Singh. They have a chocolate factory and shop. We had no idea you could do so much with chocolate (made with vegetable oils, not milk) and marzipan. Of course, after some samples we had to get some stock! Apparently it is quite a nice little business, and been in the family for 6 generations. The Clavel ranch to the east of the town was a nice little life-style block complete with a horse and a sheep. We both enjoyed our Pastis with water –very refreshing and the light meal included pasta and artichoke, tabouleh and lovely pasta.
Monday, 5 July
Ian woke very depressed at the delay. Had we made a bad mistake buying the boat? This was added to by the fact that the papers from St Jean hadn’t arrived back to forward to Avignon for Ian’s permit and compounded by Corrine’s comment that the certificate wouldn’t be available immediately. Vaughan, the next day agrees, but said that a note advising of success would be available immediately as a temporary measure.
We drove the rental for a quick look at Nimes and its arena, filled it with petrol, dropped Lorna and Frank off and returned the car to the airport.
In the afternoon, with the temperature rising to the high 30’s we went for a swim in the local pool. No free entry here. But it is a nice pool and very refreshing. In between Ian started installing battery charger.
Tuesday, 6 July
A working day. First the completion of the installation of the charger which is working well, keeping the battery level up. Then in the evening, ironing tape on to the edges of a couple of shelves and fitting them and cutting gluing and nailing an edge on the new pantry shelf ready for installation on Wednesday. Frank introduced us to a card game where the last holder of the Jack of clubs is the loser.
Wednesday, 7 July
If only I wrote this each day it would be easier! Today was the first day of our first experience of a mistral. It was just like a Christchurch day with a nor’wester. The temperature was 30 by 10 o’clock and after rising to 33, was still at 28 at 8 pm. And the blustery wind kept the boat swinging on its mooring. We are moored stern to the quay, which in a crosswind is not very stable. But off course there are no waves to speak of except when a boat passes through the port.
The new pantry shelf is up, but failed its first test. The small shelf fitting at the rear was not firm enough in the hardboard and moved from under the shelf. So, empty everything back to the floor and find a 25 mm square length of timber, drill holes in both directions and refix the shelf to the wall with a decent fastening.
Thursday, 8 July
More of the Mistral. We were told it is either 3, 6 or 9 days, so hope it is the first. At least it isn’t winter when it would be cold. Ian assembled the first two of the box/drawers he cut out last week. They fit well, but Lorna will need to be convinced of their excellence for the job required – to store veggies and spare stocks of food. It was market day and Lorna shopped for food. Ian ordered a haircut after much confusion about what was needed. 11am Friday. We have found it much better not to open the roof of the boat, but to keep the windows open until the sun is on that side, then pull the curtains. The sun is hot, but doesn’t burn like it does at home.
Friday 9, July.
More mistral, but it is blowing a bit less and by evening has almost faded away. A bit of a worry as the fridge wouldn’t start, and the slow water pump noise indicated the domestic battery was low. But the charger was still working. Ian disconnected the charger, and connected it directly to the batteries. Immediately it improved. Then further investigation showed that, when after the first direct connecting across the batteries, it was moved to a tidier permanent connections through the main switch panel, the charger was connected across the starting battery, not the house batteries. So this problem was easily remedied. But Ian took the opportunity to top-up the water in the batteries. In the meantime we have decided some time soon to turn every thing on and remove one switch at a time to find which fuse is which(this wasn’t actually done until July 2000).
Corrine is back in the CBL office after a couple of days off. She rang the waterways people at Avignon and confirmed that Ian’s booking for his permis was OK. Apparently it will take about an hour in all, but the 9 am start is too early to use the bus and train. So we booked a rental car for 24 hours on Thursday/Friday. All Ian has to do now is study well enough to pass the multi-choice test!
Paule rang an offered us the use of one of their cars. A very generous offer, but we are organised now, and arranging the changes created too much effort in our minds. We have slowed down to a little faster than stopped! Ian got clear silicon sealer, an application tool, and a tin of compound for repairing the gel-coat. Ian had forgotten his haircut appointment so went to the coiffeur at the supermarket for une coupe classic at FF89 (about $27 in comparison with the MIT hairdressing school’s $8.50). But Lorna gave it her highest possible praise ‘as good as Frank Sinatra!’ Lorna is steadily building her range of spices and herbs, even with live mint and basil. We bought a book for Frank – he devoured it in one evening-and a new card game. Now we will learn La Fontaine’s Fables.
We were hoping or a call from Marjorie and Bill with news from Karen and Arthur. Maybe if they ring tomorrow they will know if the All Blacks beat the Springboks!
Saturday, 10 July
The port is busy today. We have been told we will be asked to move too another berth by this evening as a party of 20 or so touring club boats is staying the night. The mistral has definitely gone. But it is as hot. The MIT thermometer shows 35.6 inside and 37 outside!
More carpentry in the morning, and Frank to a Disney film at 3.00.
The port was busy that evening. About 20 club boats arrived after a day at a fete at Bellgarde, a little up the canal. In addition to the crews who all dressed smartly for their evening at a restaurant in comparison with the normal cruising crew, and especially with Ian in another of his "OFFICIAL" shirts.
Sunday, 11 July
We have settled into a routine, in terms of what we eat. For the three of us 1½ baguettes, with honey, nutella or jam for breakfast, the same with cheese, jam or a salad for lunch and meat, potatoes (which are beautifully flavoured) and veggies for tea. In the heat that’s as much as we feel like.
Our exploration of the Sunday market resulted in two large cushions for the saloon, a gas lighter which is working satisfactorily a huge watch for Frank which took a lot of struggling to set up and our usual fruit and veggies. Oh yes and we have bought a small piece of sheep’s cheese to try.
But great news. Our cell-phone rang with a call from Arthur. Nigel William Keane had arrived at 2.30 pm that afternoon, a healthy 8lb 6 oz already causing his mum some difficulties, but all were well. That called for a celebratory glass of local wine. Of course this info was secondary to the Equipe report on the All Black’s huge defeat of the Boks. What a way to improve one’s French! The port emptied out quickly and new boats arrived later in the evening as usual.
All of the boxes/drawers were now assembled ready to varnish.
Monday, 12 July
Hot clear with some heat haze.
Ian sanded and varnished the boxes and later in the day they were filled and put away. The extra organisation of space is great. While doing this sitting in the shade on the quay, under a tree, we got into a conversation with a caravanner from Toulon. We murdered the French language, as we talked with him for over an hour about France, caravanning, the joys of retirement etc. It was a good lingual experience (for us at least) And we got some information about a possible awning for the back of our boat.
We completed the application to charge purchases of time for our telephone and while at the post office. Ian confirmed a place in Nimes where he will try to read our e-mail and download some Internet info on Thursday, while collecting the car ready to drive to Avignon for the Permit de Coche test.
In the evening we started to plan a special meal for Bastille Day on Wednesday. Frank’s first wish was chips, a cake and pate en croute. The rest of the decisions will be made at the super-market. We also enjoyed the company on the quay of a young couple (she a psychiatrist and he a pop record marketer) from Ealing, London.
We left the VHF on listening to the St Gilles lock. We are not sure whether to use it with our fractured French or just to listen on it. I guess with time we will start to use it.
Tuesday, 13 July
We have decided we need a shade and clothes drying line at the stern of the boat. The lack of shade makes the cabin very hot when the sun is astern, especially in the evenings. At present that is the way we are berthed at St Gilles. Ian’s desire to try reversing the mooring lead to some strife and the other choice of pulling the curtains closed stops the through wind. The present drying rack is OK for small things, but sheets need to be folded several times so don’t dry as well. No problem here but as autumn comes on it may be. So Ian and Frank spent several hours cycling around the hardware shops looking for something like the Hill’s fold-a-line which would serve both purposes. No luck. Later we all went to Intermarché to get the makings for the Bastille Day Dinner. We had a pasta dish with a prepared tomato based sauce for dinner. We thought of no tomatoes Marjorie. The dish was good, but Lorna is now keen to try her own sauce.
Wednesday, 14 Juillet; Bastille Day
We were awakened at 6 am with 4 very loud bangs. Well at least, Ian and Lorna were. There was a repeat just after 12 noon. After cycling with Frank to the supermarket to get more butter, Ian made a chocolate cake. In spite of guessing volumes with our tiny cups it seemed to go together OK, but again our oven wasn’t hot enough. We will get used to the settings. At least we now know how to start it! The other night we had to delay a pizza tea for 24 hours because we needed to ask how to light it! But anyway, with an extra 20 minutes the cake looks OK. We bought a chicken to roast with the chips (at least it looks like one) but at ½ the price of others we will cook it slowly. No oven bags here, so we will use foil.
Ian watched the mechanic change oil and diesel filters on another boat. A bit messy, but this boat is a little easier to get at. I am not looking forward to it.
I will save this to take with me tomorrow when I hope to get an Internet connection. To be continued.
We went to the arena for the special Course des Toureaux provided by the Mairie where the picadors pluck the coquettes from between the horns of the charging bull. Then the special meal which we all enjoyed and later a walk to see the flaming flambeaux, my term for an unknown advertised event. In the end these turned out to be a simple but ingenious candleholder on a stick. Back to the boat for coffee and then the band playing La Marseillaise introduced a fireworks display from the hilltop mairie.
Thursday, 15 July
We all caught the 11.30 bus to Nimes to get the rental car. It was a hot day and the walk from the Gare Routiere to the arena and centre of town was exhausting. The Roman Arena was impressive though not as much as the slightly larger one in Arles. We filled in some time with lunch and then on the way to the hire car depot we (that is Lorna) saw an internet provider. At FF50 and hour (NZ$ 17) it wasn’t cheap, and then to realisation of problems. First the French keyboard is completely different from the English Querty one. This makes sense with all of their accents etc, but is disconcerting. But we had Frank to help. Then the system used Explorer and not Netscape. And the title page was in French and Ian couldn’t find how to use his bookmark disk. Ian logged into his e-mail provider and couldn’t get his password to work. In the end we used Frank’s address to send the message to a few users to advise them that I couldn’t contact them through my internet address.
We picked up our car and drove around a little, seeing the Forum building, which looked impressive if a bit smaller than expected. It wasn’t until the day Ian returned the car he found out it was a 16th century reproduction! Then home for some last minute swot.
Friday, 16 July
Up at 6.30, Ian had a pleasant drive to Avignon for the test. Some confusion in following the instructions led to a ¾ hour search for the place, but with ½ and hour to spare Ian was ready. The exam didn’t seem too difficult, but there were a number of surprises. There was confusion in the way the questions on port and starboard buoys was asked and one needed to know which organisation would approve a speedboat regatta. The result was that the other three who sat all passed and Ian missed! The empty, hollow feeling of failure, impending disaster from not being able to meet schedules and the possibility of similar failure in the future all led to deep depression. To add to this nearly two hours was wasted trying to find a tabac who could sell FF250 of tax stamps to pay for the resit. The marker was reasonably helpful in letting Ian see what he had done wrong. Anyway, Ian was too late getting back to Nimes to return the car before siesta and thus had to fill in time on a hot dry day waiting for the 5.05 pm bus. He couldn’t ring Lorna because her phone was out of action with a flat battery!
Ian arrived home depressed, with a headache and the bad news. Only a light tea and then early bed.
Saturday, 17 July
Replanning and recovery. Ian tried to get a copy of the Code Vagnol, which is the canal bible. In the end Paul suggested trying the local tabac/bookshop. We struck gold and got a booklet with 12 sets of questions. So Ian has started doing these tests and they are a great help. Much more optimism now.
Again we stocked up at the supermarket and we all cycled to a discount shop up the Arles road and added a few more comforts of home to the boat. In particular we got a very light duvet for the early hours before dawn. Frank went to the movies.
Sunday, 18 July
We started to polish the boat using a car polish. It works quite well on the white, but putting the bikes on it again leaves tyre marks. Ian got an Equipe to see the rugby result. Aus thrashed the ‘boks. Ian passed on the news to Mike and Delise, a South African couple who are staying in the port. That evening they joined us for drinks, sitting in the shade under a tree on the quay.
Monday, 19 July
Practice with the tests gives results of 3-5 errors per test – too close for comfort as only 5 are allowed. But still Ian is learning. But what useless questions some of them are. Who is responsible for issuing permits etc? If you need to know you will find out. We started planning for Paule and Rene’s visit for dinner on Wednesday evening. Lorna and Frank were the big decision-makers here.
Tuesday, 20 July
Ian went for a run and Frank came on his bike around the circumference of the town. Lorna took her long planned walk over the hill to visit historical features. She was enthusiastic about the display in the 12th century Maison Romaine and its information on St Gilles including the development of the port. We all went shopping for electrical fittings, hose pipes and looked at ways of arranging shelter over the rear door and clothes drying. During the morning Frank and Ian borrowed the Crown Blue raft during the lunch break and scrubbed the hull of the boat with special efforts on the new green water line which was looking grubby. It worked well, but unfortunately at some time he must have put his watch in the water and later we found it had water on its face. We tried putting it in the sun and later taking the back off it but its water resistance was about the same as a tea strainer!
Wednesday, 21 July
In the morning, after approval from the VNF officer that so long as we didn’t leave the port we could practice technique, we did so. All went smoothly for a while, until during a manoeuvre to leave a mooring, Lorna put too much effort into pushing off and ended up in the canal. She went immediately for a shower and so far hasn’t shown signs of Hep A. But she has a nasty bruise from landing on the broom.
Ian installed the plug for the new Black and Decker vacuum cleaner, and fitted a valve so that a plastic tube could be used for reading the water level in the tank without spilling over during filling. It was very hot so we weren’t in a hurry to bike to the supermarket to buy the makings for our visitor’s dinner. But since they weren’t due till after 8 that wasn’t a problem.
The dinner was a success. The local bottle of wine was better than the $7/litre merlot we usually get. The paté was enjoyable, marinated pork fillets were tasty and as usual the French potatoes were tasty. We couldn’t offer chocolate to a chocolate manufacturer, but they were happy to accept Frank’s suggestion of chocolate ice cream. The pièce de resistance was Frank recipe of slices of peaches served in a wineglass full of red wine. Delicious. It was only after they left that Lorna found the two salads still in the fridge! But it was lovely evening and they left for their long drive back to Carpentra about 11 pm. We commented as they left on the gentle northern wind – the mistral we had heard mentioned several times that day was here.
Thursday, 22 July
Today was Frank’s last day. He was up and packed by the time Ian was back with the bread. Ian made a quick trip to the market for fruit and smoked saucisse, and Lorna cut sandwiches for us all, and off to Nimes we went in the bus. A half hour wait and Frank was off to Paris in the TGV. He was there before we were back on our boat. We used to time to look at the Roman Forum, lunch by the fountain canal, shop in a large mall and book a rental for the weekend so Ian can go to Avignon to resit his permit on Monday. But a bonus. Well two of them for that matter; First the McDonalds waitress misheard Ian’s request for jus d’orange and brought chips. When she understood her mistake she corrected and also gave us the chips. The Ian left Lorna to check out the Telecom shop. They had a computer logged into the internet. When asked if he could read his email and how much it would cost the answer was "Gratuite". Back to Lorna to get the diary and addresses and let Lorna know what was happening and then a relaxed half-hour to work out what had gone wrong before. The inability to enter his password successfully had come from misusing the French keyboard. Unlike qwerty, the numbers over the alpha keys need the shift key down to select. Without this you get the other funny things like @ & and e with accents. So we were in. But only two messages. 1 a trial from the IT internet manager at MIT and the other a discussion paper on changing CSM formats at MIT. So after deleting these I wrote to those who I had written to the previous week and let them know I was back on line!
It was hot and blustery all day, and this seemed to reduce the mozzies!
That night, Ian started doing the permit tests again and with some improvement (0 – 4 wrong) Much more hopeful. But the study was interrupted by a call from Mike and Delise back in port after a week touring the canal. We remembered our unused salads, spare this and that and they threw in some scraps and a bottle of white to go with our cheap merlot, and about 12 we called it a night!
Friday, 23 July
Ian is getting concerned about the costs exceeding budget, so Lorna faxed Margaret for a copy of our bank statement. Ian practised his tests and then took the bus to Nimes for the car. In the evening we fitted the mosquito net we bought the previous day. The mistral was still blowing and this had made staying indoors a more attractive option. The evening was cool enough for us to put our new lightweight duvet on.
Saturday, 24 July
The mistral still blows but a bit more gently. By 10am we are ready to head for Provence. We took a bypass on the way and looked at wildlife on an etange on the Rhone delta. Not a lot, but Ian was impressed by the sight of two flamingos landing. In particular, their size and the bright red patch on their wings with the sun shining through. Then a quick look at the bridge made famous by Van Gogh, south of Arles.
Then we headed for Peter Mayles country. Not exactly a liked person in Provence, he had certainly influenced a lot of English speaking interest. The hills seemed forbidding, but always a gap appeared and the way was clear. That is excepting from Lourmarin (on the Durance) to Bonnieux, which was a winding road through a narrow gorge in the limestone. What a beautiful town. Then through Lacoste and Menebes Mayles local town) to Goude and on to St Reny where were held up by some weird procession of girls on horseback, boys with whips and a cartload of food etc.
We arrived before 6pm and got a fax from Margaret with good news both about the all blacks beating Australia and our bank balance being acceptable. A delightful tea of bacon omelette. The mistral has gone, so with luck and a permit we will soon be well on the Rhone.
Sunday, 25 July
A day for final swot. Lorna did the market for food on the assumption of a pass and we drove to the supermarket only to find it shut on Sundays. There’s a lesson for some. Anyway Lorna will do it with the bike while Ian is in Avignon sitting his test. After lunch we drove the boat back and forth through the port while it was reasonably quiet to practice skills. Then we filled with diesel and more swot. We had a letter from Marjorie with Timm’s family and other NZ news.
Monday, 26 July
Ian was up and away before 7am and in Avignon by 8.00 to find he had left his dictionary behind. The shops don’t open till 10.00 and no one had one to lend. So he hoped the study had given enough to compensate, and not too many surprises. It didn’t seem too bad, but a couple he couldn’t understand and semi-guessed. Then the agony of waiting for the result. He paced like an expectant father! All lost for the lack of a dictionary! In the end it was first equal on the day with only 1 mistake. A whoop of joy and relief!! A quick trip back to St Gilles to tell Lorna and the Crown Blue crew, get a copy of the temporary certificate for the Gendarmerie, and then after dropping it off, return the car to Nimes and get a bus back. By 1.30 md he was back thanking the Crown Blue team and at 1.50pm we were on our way. Everything seemed rosy! And it was. Our first lock at St Gilles was OK (he took our boat and skipper’s name and address and destination and advised us to use our VHF radio at the locks), the Petit Rhone was a dream and so was the Rhone an hour later. The current on the Rhone (I estimated 3 km/h) uneventful and our first major lock (Beaucaire) informative. In our broken French we told the eclusier it was our first major lock and he watched us through. The sides of locks which are up to 26 metres deep have slots set in them with a floating chamber in vertical rails and a bollard attached. You make you boat fast to this and as the water rises so does the bollard. You hold the ropes by hand in case a fast release is needed and rise to the top. The process from arrival, waiting to enter, rising (in 5 – 10 minutes) and exiting takes 30 – 60 minutes. Vallebregues, our stop for the night was only 20 minutes further and we crept to a berth on a floating, plastic marina about 7.30 pm. A little weary but relieved and happy. A good meal of saucisse and veggies, a couple of glasses of wine and early to bed.
Tuesday, 27 July
Up at 6.20 am and away by 6.40. Too early to be
asked to pay! Unfortunately we will have no time to stop and look. Straight through
Avignon. Four locks and 100 km for the day. At each lock our skills and techniques
improved. The Bolene lock was 26 m high, we were required to wear our life jackets but
even it was no different. The most difficult thing is mooring to the bollards on posts
while awaiting the green light to enter. Some huge barges came out, including a shining
passenger boat. They take up most of the 190-195metres long and 12 metres wide space in
the lock. We even squeezed one more lock in and about 9pm moored for the night in South
Montelimar (pk160) along with two commercial barges. We were requested to move our boat
along the mooring to make room for the second one and made a most seaman-like effort,
while the tea finished cooking. The wind has fallen and all is calm. We wonder who will
leave last. We plan on a 6.30 start and are planning for St Jean de Losne on Saturday. We
had a phone call from Mike yesterday as we cruised up the Petit Rhone with his news and
one from Stacey who will still go to Dijon to arrive the same Saturday. Things seem to be
coming together.
Wednesday, 28 July
It was a good night, but the barges leaving early had us on deck, oil and water checked and away by 6.30, breakfasting as we went. It was another beautiful day and the boat performed beautifully. Twice we had frights when we lost power. The first time was in shallow mud and a look astern encouraged us to turn out from the shore. The second time the power didn’t recover, but we were close to a port so kept on for a km with reduced throttle. Just before the port Ian decided to try reversing and this cleared the weed. We proceeded without stopping. Again, 4 locks for the day, becoming more proficient as the day progressed. I don’t know which one we first tried it at, but in the end we decided that the best, safest and easiest way was to fasten the bow to the bollard, run the boat forward till the bollard was about amidships, and pass the stern rope over the bollard and make it fast at the stern. That way we kept it reasonably stable in the swirling water as the lock filled, but sat and relaxed on deck.
We had a break at mid-day to refuel and get some supplies from the
supermarket at Epervier yacht harbour at south of Valence. We thought of Frank, and our
original plan for him to catch the Paris train from here. By now he would
be in Australia. We didn’t expect siesta to apply to diesel,
but we had to wait until 2 and it was 2.30 before we were away. We kept going until after
8.00 and stopped for the night at Andance (pk 67). It was still and the water was like a
mirror; it was a pity to ripple it. But the pontoon wharf was taken and we had to moor
against a sloping quay. This easy enough, except that any passing traffic would rock our
fibreglass hull against 
the concrete. Lorna’s reading memory came to
the fore, and we put the gangplank on the rubbing strake, the other end on an appropriate
step of the quay and pulled each end tight. A diagonal from the bow to the stern mooring
locked it up. A couple of large commercial boats went through without creating any
problem. We keep improving our seamanship (sorry, river-personship).
Thursday, 29 July.
Our best hopes have come true, and our whole mood is changing. In three days we have come up the Rhone, and now we are 31 km up the Saone. Only three locks today. We are old hands at them. In fact the lock on the Saone, a lower lift but without the rising bollards was more difficult. You have to pull to warps in as the boat rises. Much more likely to cause blisters. But back to the Rhone. Another beautiful sunny day. We wove our way up the channels, keeping as close to the sides as weed would allow, and cutting the corners to avoid as much of the current as possible. Ian kept measuring the time between km marks, and the speed varied between 7.8kph and 9.9, with some just over 10kph. On the Saone we were able to average above 10.5 and I expect that on still water we will be making about 11kph at these revs (2100 rpm). We passed a faster boat this way, and left a small yacht powered by an outboard behind, until he tried the trick and caught us. But just after he passed us, about a km from the lock coming into Lyon, he hit something and lost power. Ta Ra Ta Ra. Ian and Lorna caught his rope and pulled him upstream against quite a strong rip from the river, trying to work out what to do with him. Then a brainstorm. The lock would be still, and calm water would be at the top. On to the VHF for permission. We were getting more confident at our use of abysmal French to advise of our approaching a lock 15 minutes in advance. A couple of times they held the lock for us. Just as we came into the lock, in the calm water, the yachtsman got his outboard going and we let him go.
We got diesel in Lyon (the cheapest yet). But they didn’t take a credit card, so Ian had to go for cash. The bank didn’t recognise WestpacTrust so it had to come from Mastercard, but we have a full tank. They were kind and offered us a ride to the bank, and water to fill our water tank. We enjoyed the winding exit to the north through the suburbs, and the Saone proved a much tamer river than the Rhone. One lock and we moored at Trevoux, a lovely old town, by the green and the boules pitch. Dinner, wine and bed. Physically, this isn’t very hard, but it is non-stop from 6.30am to 8.00pm. We are now confident of reaching St Jean de Losne on Saturday while the boatyards are open.
Friday, 30 July
Yet another lovely day. It is now 3pm and it has been 35 degrees. We cruised this morning with Lorna in her bikini on the foredeck and Ian in shorts, sitting on the sliding hatch, steering with his feet. Past Macon. The washing was done in the cool and drying, windows cleaned etc. We stopped at Port Arciat a small jetty at 11.00 and cycled into Creche sur Saone to buy a paper, bread and wine. Ian got 3 lovely bottles of Beaujolais, and we enjoyed ½ of one for lunch under a tree by the boat, before starting away about 1.00pm. From there it was a pleasant afternoon’s travel, passing Tournus and mooring at Port d'Ouroux – well it was a port in its day. We moored in weed against a sloping quai and used our gangplank trick again.
Saturday, 31 July
Due in St Jean today. We leave at 6.30 and pass Chalon sur Saone, a lovely old town on our left. Ian cleaned and polished the stern area, and washed the decks, then Lorna washed clothes and tidied up for our new guests. Stacey phoned about 9 from Dijon and was to find out about buses to St Jean and phone back. She did and the bus would leave Dijon at 12 noon. We estimated before 2.00pm into St Jean. It was a lovely clear day and the temperature went to he mid thirties. A long length of canal and 4 km of river and we were there. A gentle entry into the port, full of a huge number of boats, and a perfect stern mooring under the careful observation of Stacey and Les, waiting under in the shade of a plane tree.
A couple of drinks, baguettes for lunch and shopping at the supermarket for the week, and a call at H2O to arrange wintering and buy a guide for the L’Oise. Then we headed out for the Burgundy Canal. At the first gate we accidentally attempted to jump a queue and were politely reminded. We have to say we have had nothing but courtesy, or perhaps ignore from large barge owners since we have been here. Handling those big boats can’t be easy.
Anyway we locked up, cruised for 200 metres and parked for the night. It was fun to have Stacey and Les; we enjoyed our saucisse for tea and planned our week. Well we knew when we would finish! It looks like a good week.
Charles Bond at H2O said that 5 days must be a record for a Prince to travel from St Gilles to St Jean de Losne!
Sunday, 1 August
After our early starts, today was a sleep in. Ian was up at 7 and off on the bike for baguettes. Gee they were lovely after several days without them. We had them with salads for lunch. The extra hands make light work, and Lorna has been driving in and out of the locks. It will be much easier for us to work the future locks this way when there are only two of us. We are going up 2.6 metres about each ½ hour, and should get almost to Dijon where we will spend some time tomorrow before starting on the canal proper.
Later. We stopped at a mooring only two locks from Dijon, talked with our neighbours, a Dutch family who have been canalling for generations. It had been an enjoyable day gaining experience of these new locks. (30 locks)
Monday, 2 August
Ian was up at 7, on his bike to look at the port and buy some bread. He found some off-cuts to use for packing up the shower. Scraps of timber aren’t common. We left about 9am for Dijon, moored about 10.30 and we spent about 3 hours sightseeing. Dijon tiles have a bright enamel finish and some of the buildings had beautiful designs on their roofs. A bonus. Ian found a Telecom sales office and sent off some more free emails. None inward.
We left Dijon after 2pm. No diesel at Dijon; a bit of a worry. We were told that it was four locks up the canal. We dipped the tank – 80 litres. But there would be 1 – 2 hours’ delay to fill, so we decided to fill later from a garage. The supermarket only stocked white plastic jerry cans, which was a worry. In the end Ian got 5 litres from a service station. But we wished we had filled at the barge on St Jean de Losne. That will be the last until Pouilley.
The scenery became lovely woods. Some of the lock keepers had made a special effort to beautify their grounds. You never knew what to expect as you rose on the water. The stream and canal climbed steadily with a 2.6 metre lock roughly at 1500 metre intervals. We stopped about 7pm at Creux Suzon well ready for a beer after the 35-degree heat. Stacey’s saucisse dish was much appreciated. (13 locks)
Tuesday, 3 August 
Tuesday was similar to the later parts of Monday. The sun shone brightly, we got tanned and the locks passed by. We kept looking unsuccessfully for diesel and dipping the tank. In the end we stopped worrying. At the lower speeds, (6 kph) we were hardly using any, and we still showed 80 litres. We saw an old abbey in lovely grounds and found a van and a small shop for a few essential needs. But all day long we talked about the meal ashore we would have that night at Pont d’Ouche. But it was all disappointment. A cycle around town showed the only restaurant in town was shut (open weekends). So another meal on board. Not that they aren’t satisfying. And a bottle of FF16 red Bordeaux after a small bottle of beer went down a treat. (23 locks)
Wednesday, 4 August
We left Pont d’Ouche about 9am feeling quite lazy and looking for bread, veggies and diesel. We got the first two in Crugey, about 10am but diesel was not something used in this area. But dipping the tank showed we were using very little and Ian was sure there would be enough to Pouilly en Auxois. So we continued up the series of locks (averaging more than 1 per km) to a bridge on a road leading to the Chateau and village of Chateauneuf. This is an old fortified chateau, started in the 12th century on the top of a hill 3 km away. Out with the bikes, Stacey and Lorna had their seats adjusted and we cycled over half the way and walked up the rest on a hot sunny still lunch time. The village was lovely and the exterior of the chateau was impressive, but we were disappointed in the tour through the chateau. Our lack of French and their lack of a good written summary meant we didn’t get full value. Then we had lunch. We had a full meal to compensate for the previous night. Steak (blue!) and chips with beans and chicken in wine and a bottle of wine after the beer to quench the thirst. Then the exhilarating free wheel back to the boat. One more lock and then we were supposed to work our own. We worked out a system, and a lock keeper on a moped helped as Ian rode ahead and emptied the locks while the others ran the boat through. with Lorna at the wheel. We moored two locks from the top on a beautiful evening and sat at the stern for a light dinner and drinks. We saw a wild deer poke its head out and back into the forest.(19 locks)
Thursday, 5 August
The tunnel is 3.33 km long. We locked up at 8.30 and arrived at the top pound at about 9.15, but had to wait for other boats until after 11am. The eclusier held our card until it was time, and we followed a tourist boat with day-trippers who merely came through the tunnel, locked down one and then turned and returned. There was about a km lead in a canal as wide as the locks and then into the tunnel. A perfect semi-circle we kept our speed up at 8.5 kph following the other boat. Our light was a trouble lamp with a 100 watt spot bulb. It was sufficient, but I may do something about a better light for the future. There were tiny stalagmites hanging from the roof and some bats flying in the dark. It took about an hour and finished as it began and in a pool at Pouilley.
We found the supermarket and stocked up with food and wine as well as 20 litres of diesel. This was more than we had used from Dijon, so we will leave the full refill until the pump is nearer. The tank holds 200 litres. After a good lunch it was on to the flight of 12 locks in about 7 km down. We had one eclusier who followed the boat down and we helped him. Ian rode ahead on a bike and opened the locks while Lorna drove the boat and Les and Stacey worked the ropes. How much easier and quicker this is. And many of the locks are electric powered to open and close valves and doors. Later we walked up a road to Eguilly Chateau. A couple aged 50 – 70 had bought this as abandoned and were slowly remedying the damage of years. We found this more interesting than Chateauneuf. Then another lock and 5km to tonight’s resting place at St. Thibault.(16 locks + the tunnel)
Friday, 6 August
Les and Ian worked on the runners for the sliding roof and got it fixed to a stage where it just needed a hacksaw to trim the nylon rollers, which were just over-sized. Ian had bought the rollers for the "washing machine" and they have found a good use. Then it off to the end of this flat bief (pond) for a couple of drinks at a pub. Ian and Lorna tried Pastis. Three more 1 mile biefs and then it was into the start of a flight of 36 locks in only 12 miles, all of which were manual. We sent someone ahead to fill and open the locks so the boat didn’t have to wait. It was hard work but fun and we were all pleased to stop for the night at Marigny-le-Cahouet. The temperature had risen to over 40 degrees, but although it was hot, it didn’t seem that hot! After a few drinks and dinner French style with salad preceding the main course, we had a couple of drinks at another bar. Lorna tried a Dubonnet which she hadn’t had for years and Ian a Marc ( a very strong brandy) (13 locks)
Saturday, 7 August
Ian started with a run and came "home" with the baguettes. We had spoken often to some Americans who were cruising in a Swedish yacht, and planning to enter the Mediterranean in late summer and cruise around the coasts to Greece. We decided to come down the rest of the flight together, a great success as it shared the load of adjusting the locks. We had the same eclusier as the previous day, and were happy to give him a bottle of cheap wine when he finished his stretch. We did 30 locks today as the temperature only rose to 34.
We spent the night at Les Laumes, a larger town. We were welcomed by a tremendous lightning display and half an hour of heavy rain, before we biked off to have dinner at a restaurant. Lorna had paté and steak. This time we asked for medium rather than bleu (rare). Ian had two elongated fish balls made from pike, which were very nice. Stacey had the snails as an entrée. Washed down with a local white wine and a little red, it was an enjoyable meal. (30 locks)
Sunday, 8 August
We left about 9 in tandem with the Americans (Gary, Karen, Ivan and Jean Sack, and Louis and Karen Ash, all associated with mining Elko, Nevada) in their boat Steam Packet. We had a nice steady run into Montbard which we reached about 4 pm. We were moored just in time to enjoy the spectacle of another French thunderstorm. A leisurely tidy up, a lovely "poor man’s beef Wellington" prepared by Stacey followed by apple crumble, to celebrate a fun week and a walk around Buffon Park and the town before an early night. (9 locks)
Monday, 9 August
We hung around Montbard to see Les and Stacey off at 6.15 pm. During the day, Lorna and the Warnocks took a taxi to Fontenay Abbey, founded in 1118. They were the most impressive buildings Lorna has seen so far. Ian finished off raising the shower floor which he had help from Les in starting a couple of days before. In 3 days, when the sealant has hardened properly, we will have a shower with much better drainage. This job, along with the improved sliding roof will improve life on Erewhon considerably. In the afternoon we locked back up to the section of canal close to the supermarket, and for 1½ hours Ian ferried diesel 130 litres 200 metres to the boat in a supermarket trolley, while Lorna restocked the larder. Then we returned through the lock for the night. (2 locks)
Tuesday, 10 August
Baguettes and off about 9.30; just the two of us. We worked out a process for handling these locks that are somewhat different from those on the Rhone and Saone. Lorna now is quite competent on the wheel, so she drove and Ian did the ropes. It worked well, and we enjoyed just having the two of us again. The lock keepers seem to have been told to lower them ready for boats coming up the canal, so we had to wait for nearly all of them to be filled, even when we had only recently seen a boat coming up. But most of them were helpful. The weather was a little cooler, which we enjoyed. We even had the occasional shower. We stayed the night at Chassignelles, a small village with about 30 houses, a restaurant and a baker. We think the farmers have their houses and sheds in these towns, as there were some large yards of equipment behind some larger houses. (26 km and 16 locks)
Wednesday, 11 August
We slept in and got away about 10am. The weather was overcast and we had several showers, a couple enough to make Ian put on a raincoat. This was especially disappointing since today was the day of the eclipse in the middle of the day. It did get darkish after 11am but suddenly at 12.10 pm Lorna looked up and through a lighter layer of cloud we could clearly see the skinny crescent of the sun. This far south it wasn’t to be a full eclipse so we probably got as good as we could, and the cloud cover allowed us to look at it. We got a photo to prove it! The rest of the day was much as yesterday and we stopped at Tanlay about 4.30. This seems to be a free port and we may use the power later as well. The prices range up to FF90, with many about FF60. (about the same as a caravan park, but we are self sufficient, so don’t stay in town if we have to pay) Ian tried to send off a fax, but Tanlay La Poste doesn’t have such a facility, but she said Tonnerre would have it so we will get away sharp tomorrow and send it before mid-day. You have to remember the 2 hour mid-day closure here. Lorna is writing to Liz and we are enjoying a relaxed and pleasantly sunny evening. The sun sets after 8 pm. (23 km and 10 locks)
A couple of lock keepers are worth a mention. Well they weren’t lockkeepers, but people leasing the cottages. The first was a Swiss guy about 70. He was a retired railway worker who after 35 years had a pension that made him one of the wealthiest in his area. He loved the lifestyle. The second were a couple from Holland. When you arrive at this automatic lock and old fellow, 82 years old stands by the controls and helps you through the mysteries of it. Then his wife comes out and he tells her your language and she proceeds to offer you a freshly baked cake for 20 francs. It is really a loaf, but is lovely. We reckon that they have several ready and she pops them into the microwave as you arrive. But anyway it’s a nice little business and well put across.
Thursday, 12 August
We were disturbed during the night by teenagers having a party beside the boats. One tried to grab a bike and we didn’t get to sleep until after 2am.
We left Tanlay early (about 9am) and reached Tonnerre about 11.15 am. Ian biked off to the post and sent off a fax advising of the mistake in addresses on his list. Then we shopped at the supermarket just by the port as the town was shut from 12 to 2pm. We had our lunch and cycled to see the sights. There was an old lavery (a developed area where the women did the washing) which was a lovely setting. We have seen a number of these in Bourgogne. Also a magnificent view from the old church and the old hospital, constructed 1293, with a vast sickroom. A bit like a large church without the tower etc. Then it was on to a riverside stop near the village of Percey (for bread in the morning). (14 locks)
Friday, 13 August
It didn’t seem to be black Friday. We left our mooring about 9 and leisurely made our way. Apart from a lunchtime break, we didn’t stop until we got to Migennes. The locks got deeper today. From about 2.5 or so up to 5 metres. And we saw more commercial large boats loading grain etc. These large peniches completely fill the lock.
Anyway we used our phone to locate the ‘Chantier Fluvial de Migennes’ a boatyard operated by a pom whose lady friend is John Todd’s (from IT at MIT) sister. I had spoken to Joe Parfitt for the best part of an hour on the phone when he was in NZ last January/February. We arrived about 5.30 after helping a poor woman struggling to operate a 5-metre lock by hand as the electrical workings had failed. It took nearly an hour. Any way, after a cup of tea, Joe listened to the fast speaking French voice on our phone and informed us we had nearly 2 hours of talk available until 7 Nov. That was a relief. He also advised on a number of technical things and offered us a 20 litre jerry can (an old plastic oil drum) to speed up refilling from supermarket bowsers, let Ian check our email (none) and send one to Owen Benson as promised. We moored for the night there, and when it rained the next day we stayed another night. We finished with dinner and met the four poms from Essex we had locked down with two days earlier.
Saturday, 14 August
Our first miserable day since we arrived, but we enjoyed reading and Lorna renewed the toilet window screening. Ian pumped some more air into the water reservoir, so that the pump didn’t turn on and off immediately the taps were operated. It was generally a very relaxing day, which was just what we needed. But we did notice the battery struggling a little that evening and turned off the fridge.
,
We slept in and Ian went for bread. After breakfast, we both wrote cards to send off. We were filling in time because we wanted to make sure no faxes arrived and Margaret and Joe were out. Anyway, after posting them and getting a lettuce and baguette, they arrived – no faxes but if they come they will forward them to Lois’. After lunch (which wasn’t baguettes, but croissants) we set off for Villeneuve sur Yonne (for a new town this one has been around a while – since 1173. We are now on the Yonne River, which has barrages about every 4 - 8 km with a lock beside. It is hugely wide after the canals, as are the locks. But the trees make it a beautiful ‘road’. We found a nice mooring on the side of the canal. This town no longer has a wall, but the two main entrances to the town still pass through the old gates. (27 km, 5 locks)
Monday, 16 August
We slept in and had a leisurely breakfast. Then it was non-stop to Sens. Well it was meant to be, but these river canals are so big they don’t like to lower the locks with only one boat and we had to wait a couple of times. Once three large peniches came out; we had difficulty seeing how they could fit in. There were a few mutinous discussions as well this morning, but that has been settled by a pleasant surprise at finding Sens a gem of a town. Lovely modern shopping in an old environment. The best since we got to France. And a market as well. We spent time with our neighbour, a retired timber merchant from Shoreham, UK. They are cruising for a year, wintering in the south. We got two films processed and looked through one of the best cathedrals we have seen. Early gothic. (4 locks, 17 km)
Tuesday, 17 August
I am writing this the following Sunday, so it is in hindsight.
Ian was able to send off some email from France Telecom but we I have since heard that the attachment didn’t get through. So you will have had to wait for this now extended production. Anyway we had a restful morning (Lorna took the opportunity to go through the cathedral museum and treasury which she found magnificent). After lunch we were off from Sens, a town we highly recommend, and a non-stop cruise to our evening destination on a diversion below a lock near Villeneuf. . (23 km, 4 locks)
Wednesday, 18 August
Lunch in Montereau, a town with not a lot to recommend it, except it is where we enter the Seine River. Lots of commercial boats, a statue of Napoleon on his horse, and a small floating pontoon for us. So off about 2.00, and on to the Seine. The locks on the Seine are almost as long and wide as on the Rhone, but less height (about 3 – 5 metres) and less efficient, so they often took ½ an hour to drop in. We are now cruising at about 9 kph. We arrived at St Mammes about 4 pm. It is full of commercial boats waiting for work and working on their boats while doing so. We found a mooring tucked into an obsolete lock amongst all the large ones. Ian sounded out he town (a tiny shopping centre in spite of all the boats. It turns out that most locals shop up the road at Moret sur Loing. Apart from some drunken, lost sailor passing noisily at 3 am it was a good night.
Thursday, 19 August
The next day we fossicked through a boat shop operated by yet another Englishman, bought a couple of old paper back, a couple of fenders, disagreed about the need for a cheap road map and then biked to look at Moret. We were entranced by it. It had been one of the towns last century which painters had congregated at, very picturesque, and historic. In addition it had a supermarket with cheap diesel, so we motored up one lock and parked. We used our jerry cans to load 110 litres and nearly filled the boat. A young Frenchman gave us a lift with one load, we invited him for a drink, but he was late. But as we were preparing tea, he (Dave), his wife (Sondra) and baby son (Bryan) passed on a walk. This time they did have time for drinks and we tidied up our trial bottle of Beaujolais. It wasn’t a great wine, but we loved the talk. She commutes to Paris each day (70 km, and the low fares make it economical – all part of Frances desire to keep the rural towns alive), he produces for a Brazilian band and Bryan is 2.
Friday, 20 August
The Pougnets will leave New Zealand tonight. Anyway, a relaxed start to the day, ready to set off and moor at Semoir to view Fontainebleau Palace. The engine started well but was as though it wasn’t in gear. Inspection showed the communications were OK and that it must be in the gearbox. The cell-phone was helpful as we rang the contacts we had been given or had met. There is an English network and they refer you to each other. But all were busy. We sought help from John at St Mammes and in addition to selling us the old map book at ½ price, he rang around his contacts, and then advised how best to proceed ourselves. It was the general consensus it must be the drive plate and the box would have to be removed from the engine. After a lot of time, using some borrowed Allen keys, and Ian succeeded the next day (Saturday) in time to ring Joe Parfitt at Migennes who ordered the part and hopes to come on Monday before lunch to refit it all.
At some time during the day, a boat went passed flying an NZ flag. We called, they stopped and talked and anchored (as they had planned) just down the lock David and Genevieve Collins from Chch (live in Governors Bay, PO Box 25103; Ph 03 329 9790 wk 388 9871). We had dinner with them at a Creperrie. In Moret. Their boat is FACET.
Saturday, 21 August
The morning was spent working on the engine, but once that was organised, we lazed around and then popped down to FACET and had a couple of drinks when a women who lived in Moret and who had heard that NZers were in town called with her two small children. She was Helen Peacock from Wellington, and is now Helen, wife of Philippe Chaveau, mother of Pauline and Kevin (address: 1 Ave des d’Antan, 77250 Moret sur Loing; ph 01 64 70 62 42). Then the Collins’ came for a quick meal on EREWHON before they went to their paid seats at a son et lumiere performance and we sneaked around the edges for an hour before calling it a day. We had enjoyed the company. We also had a call from Joanne who had the exciting news of a new job. It was great to hear from her. It is annoying that we can’t call from here.
Sunday, 22 August
Since the day was free and we were not going to have time to visit later, we took the train to Fontainebleau, with our bicycles and went to the palace. It was magnificent. A beautiful day and we had lunch in the sun after two hours in the palace. A must if you are this way. But we also got a call while we were there from Philippe and Lois who had just got back from NZ. We look forward to seeing them later in the week. So now I am sitting at 6.30, typing this the temperature is 30 degrees and I have shorts and no shirt on. This is what we had dreamed of. A salad for tea and an early night. We do hope the boat is OK tomorrow.
Monday, 23 August
We couldn’t do a lot as firstly we were waiting for the mechanic, and after he rang at mid-day to say the parts hadn’t arrived, there wasn’t time so we read most of the day.
Tuesday, 24 August
We had a ring from Catherine Gow and Peter Kendall who we were to meet in Paris today or tomorrow. As a result, they are travelling down to Moret today and will leave their car here for the week. Joe came at 11.30 and we fixed the boat. He pointed out a couple of fuel leaks, but didn’t have time to fix them. He explained what I would need to do reasonably soon. Cost FF2300 (about $700). Catherine and Peter arrived about 5, and after tea we discussed our plans. It was agreed that they should see Fontainebleau the next morning while we got fuel, water and parts for the leak.
Wednesday, 25 August
As planned Catherine and Peter headed for Fontainebleau and we down the canal to the fuel depot at St Mammes. They didn’t have all the parts but we did get another mooring rope and a hand pump for removing the engine bilge. After picking Catherine and Peter up (they had had a little trouble finding a good parking spot) we headed down the Seine at 3.00. After following the main stream on the left through Melum, we rounded back up the smaller branch and moored to a lovely spot by a nice lawn and trees. About 15 minutes later we were politely asked by a prison officer to move (across the stream), as otherwise they would have to call the police! We had duplicated Hugh McKnight’s exercise some years earlier! It was a good night, but a little investigation the next morning didn’t excite enthusiasm for exploring. (29 km, 2 locks)
Thursday, 26 August
We left Melum at 9.30 and after waiting for a peniche at the first lock decided to try to keep up with it so we would have a good run through the rest of them. With the engine revs about 2000 that was close to 10 kph and it wasn’t too far ahead at the next two locks. Unfortunately we lost a cushion overboard, and the 10 minute recovering it was enough to miss the 2nd last lock. But it was a good days travel, the traffic got heavier, but not a problem. We called the harbourmaster of the Port de Paris Arsenal on the VHF and locked in here about 6.30. It is about 4 metres above the Seine, has stern or bow moorings down both sides and seems about 400 metres long. The tariff is FF164 per day and includes access to toilets, shower and laundry. Adjacent to the Bastille it is very central, especially for restaurants. We had dinner in a Chinese restaurant, and Cath went off looking for nightlife with music.
Friday 27, August
Sightseeing etc; Lorna and Ian took the metro to get filters for the boat. Then Lois, Philippe and Frank came for dinner with Champers. We all had an enjoyable meal and finished by wandering off to Isle St Louis for a crepe for sweet.
Saturday, 28 August
All Blacks didn’t play Australia! We went to a pub and watched the game at mid-day (a bit late getting there!) What a disappointment! We walked back along the river and looked in on Notre Dame with more appreciation than when either of us had been before. Then Ian changed the fuel filter, sealed the leaks. No trouble for a first timer. Ian did tea – a fry up of potato leftovers, saucisse, bread and beans.
Sunday, 29 August
We are still here by mutual agreement. Lorna and Ian went to a market at Place de l’Aligne, near here – nothing of interest except the usual vegetables and fruit. We came home for lunch and after a good rest took the metro to Montmartre and Sacre Coeur. It was a beautiful day.
Monday, 30 August
This morning we had a ring from Karen and Arthur who gave us some idea of proposed redundancies in the MIT Business School. I never seem to be able to get my timing right We were also pleased to here news of the blonde Nigel and Sarah and Bill and Marjorie.
Our last day in Paris. Lorna and Ian first went to the terrace on the top of the Samaritaines store with its panoramic views over the city. Its free and the best view apart from the Eiffel Tour. The smog was noticeable for the first time. Then Ian went to Les Invalides and looked through the Military Museum while Lorna tried unsuccessfully to spend some money on clothes. That evening we went with Catherine to Chez Paul restaurant. The Bastille is an ideal location for staying at. It is so convenient.
Tuesday, 31 August
Catherine and Peter headed for the Gare de Lyon and Moret to reconnect with their car and after using the washing machine; we locked out on to the Seine. Frank was with us for the next week, to compensate for missing out on the Rhone. It is one way down past the islands 35 to 55 minutes after the hour. There were quite a few large passenger boats about as well as a couple of barges waiting, but no problem, and the views were spectacular. Eventually we passed the area where Di was killed and headed south into more industrial areas. But the Seine wanders north, again, then south and again north and we spent the night moored above the second lock at Bougival, where we had visitors for dinner. All of the Pougnets and also Philippe’s cousin Chantal and Alain. Without that modern miracle the cell phone, none of them would have found us! Lois brought a stew and Chantal the sweet.
Wednesday, 1 September
On down the Seine until we turned into the l’Oise at St Honorine and the river narrowed, emphasised by all of the peniches double-parked for about a kilometre. The current is slow (probably less than ½ km/hr. We found a mooring at Vaureal with shallow water on the outside of a bend. The result was heavy wash from passing traffic, but by mooring on slack ropes we coped OK. Ian and Frank biked up to the Pougnets and Ian used the email. When Lois came home she went down for Lorna. We had a pleasant meal, planned the weekend and spent the night on the boat. We were somewhat disturbed by a teenage problem solving session which lasted till after 3 am.
Thursday, 2 September
Departed after saying farewell to two elderly Brits in a stubby yacht Nordland, who had been cruising for 6 summers. We swapped paperbacks and info. The locks were large (could hold 4 peniches) and rose about 2.5 to 3 metres. We had lunch at a resort town called L’Isle Adam, which has a man-made beach and fancy pools. Very pretty. We got to Creil at about 6 pm. Frank and Ian found an Auchan for shopping the next morning. The mooring below he bridge was somewhat exposed to wash, but the traffic was light in the evening and early morning. A game of cards with Frank before bed.
Friday, 3 September
Supermarket shopping till 11.30, then on to Compiegne with a lunch break after a couple of hours at Pont St Maxence. Compiegne was the third most favourite chateau after Versaille and Fountaineblueu, but in the evening all we could see was the formal hotel-like chateau front and the start of the long access to the hunting forests. When we arrived back from our walk, Philippe and Lois had arrived much to Ian’s surprise! So late drinks etc.
Saturday, 4 September
First we used the Pougnets car to drive to the Armistice Carriage, where the negotiations to cease battle in WW I took place. One of the most moving museums I have ever been in. The horror of it was displayed in a number of 3-D machines with black and white photos. Nearly a million French alone lost their lives in this area.
Then it was back to the boat and Philippe and Lois took the car to Chauny and returned to Ribecourt by rail where we met them. 2 km above Compiegne the Aisne joined the Oise and so the river was now smaller and soon changed to a lateral canal. The locks were smaller (1 peniche after Pont l’Eveque when the Canal de Nord branched left) and thus faster, but the straight lines of a canal become somewhat boring. But there was no shortage of helms-people. Of course, a beautiful sunny day and we arrived at Chauny at about 5.30. We stayed at a port de plaisance pontoon mooring, which cost FF40 including electricity. We bought an adapter for our cable. Our cable was fitted with the standard French domestic plug, but most of the moorings have the International standard blue plug as in NZ.
We moored bow in so we had a semi-private deck space for our last meal with the Pougnets. It proved also to be more stable than lateral mooring as boats went passed. Ian was offered lots of advice as he fastened the lines!
Sunday, 5 September
A sleep in till after 8, then breakfast with meusli and stale baguettes. It is amazing how much less that is eaten when the baguettes are not fresh! Lorna is putting a load of washing through the machine (over 2 hours!), the Pougnets have driven south and we are ready for a week of locks. (127 km and 45 locks)
7 km to Tergnierg where we branched right into the Sambre a l’Oise Canal. At the last lock before the junction we were given a hand-held control which we press before entry and again in the lock, when ready to rise. It was very quick and effective. The locks are smaller and there is no sign of other traffic. We only met 1 boat as we progressed to Ribemont where we moored for the night in a roomy basin with the fishermen. Ian checked the town out and found the boulangerie for the morning. That evening we watched another of those thunderstorms we have become accustomed to. It was all around us but we only had a little rain.
Monday, 6 September
Off in the morning for the bread only to find the boulangerie doesn’t open on Mondays! There is a small supermarket, but it opens in the afternoons on Mondays!!
After meusli and toast we continued the automatic system to Origne where we returned our button and filled with water. The locks are smaller and all is less well maintained, but the investment, which is occurring, seems to indicate it is planned to keep the canal going. We only saw one boat going down and were told a pleasure boat was rising behind us. Too big for both of us to share. From here the lock keepers stayed with us in their little cars for a sequence of about half a dozen locks before passing us on. The rise accelerated near to Etreux, which was the first of an sequential automatic system. The opening of the last lock automatically prepared the next for entry. When ready in this we activated the filling by raising a blue pipe on the lock wall. It worked well, though we found that since the locks filled fast, it was best to take a bollard as far from the exit as possible. This made activating the system difficult as the blue rod was in the middle. But we persevered and found it worked well.
We stayed the night in Etreux port after telling the eclusier we would be ready between 9 and 9.30 am. Ian enquired around and eventually was given three rondelle cuivre (copper washers) for the fuel system. He fitted them that night and was hopeful. He then pumped 5 litres of oil and fuel out of the bilge into an empty wine cask. We enjoyed an evening of reading.
Tuesday, 7 September, 1999
We enjoyed fresh bread and were ready at 9, but the lock keeper started us at 9.30 to finish the climb. A feature of this section was the duckweed. It was bank to bank and I will need to check the cooling water filter tomorrow. Also, because of the negligible flow and light traffic, the water was stagnant and stank.
Lorna talks of keeping the boat on the silver road. With trees along both banks the reflection of the sky gives that effect. A 7 km pond followed the top of the flight of locks and associated reservoirs to maintain the levels and flow, before we reached the first down lock and were given another button for the automatic locks to the Belgian border. The eclusier drove 4 km to Catillon sur Sambre to raise the canal bridge and there was a queue of about 10 cars on each side. But it doesn’t happen a lot of times a day if our experience is typical! It was hard to distinguish when we switched from a canal to a river at Landrecies, but the river had kept its natural bends, with the occasional huge loops that take 5 km to cover only 1 km. We moored for the night at a lovely halt, flood-lit at the bottom of a number of gardens in a town called Berlaiment. The owner of one told us of a Pizza restaurant, we dressed up a bit and walked to it, only to find it was closed. So then we walked towards the twin town on the other side of the river, but gave up and returned to the boat for sausage (English style) and potatoes. A bit of a disappointment.
Wednesday, 8 September
We slept in. We had plans to stop in either Hautmont (where we did have lunch at a nice halt in an industrial city, and where the town clock chimed a tune on the hour) or Mauberge. This is a large industrial city, and somewhat threatening. We were welcomed by some children as we entered town, but suddenly from nowhere a stone at speed hit the boat, and 20 seconds later, again. An elderly couple waving and smiling responded to our miming the attack, by miming a catapult, and the old fellow took off looking for the perpetrator. Fortunately no damage was done, but it would have broken a window. Our attitude was confirmed when arriving in the centre of town the concrete port was overlooked by the largest market we had seen. We had a quick look at the town (mostly post war since it was attacked by incendiary bombs in 1940 and totally destroyed) Then we embarked and stopped at a lovely halt under lights at Bousois, about 7 km further. We liked this spot so well, we stayed two nights. After a walk around we had dinner at a hotel-restaurant. Not high class, but we enjoyed the meal and service. We learned that celery made a lovely herb with fillet mignon. Later we tried the NZ Telecom card. It worked, though only using the operator, which took some minutes of attempts to establish. We then talked to Margaret for a few minutes and were pleased every one and every thing is as well as hoped for. The problem with the card is that the French dial tones are non-standard.
Thursday, 9 September
We stayed the day and caught up on letter writing and reading. In the afternoon Ian mixed up the two pot polyester a little at a time and filled holes in the surface. The ones in the grey areas will need to be painted, but the surface is now protected. Ian rang Joanne who called back and Michael who was out on some ones expense account for dinner.
Friday, 10 September
Off at 9.30, handed our lock operating button in at Jeumont, and then across the border into Belgium. Immediately is a halt with a filling station. In Belgium we can use tax free diesel so we filled up. 200 litres at BF12 = FF 2 compared with FF4.80 or so in France. We have to keep the invoice to explain the red colour in our tank when we re-enter (before which we will top up) Then our first lock in Belgium where we gave our planned route and paid FF10 (we didn’t have the Belgian BF35) for our documentation. Not a lot of change, but today, like yesterday we have seen more peniches. Four a day. The first locks are peniche size and mostly less than 2 metres, and we see about one an hour. At the third lock we were told to get the Belgian navigation flag (red with a small white square in the centre). It apparently indicates you are navigating, not resting, but most boats leave it up night and day. Anyway we bought one from the lady next to the next lock who makes them for pin money. (About $18). We had lunch in Thuin, developed a film and bought a cheap tarpaulin for covering the windshield at night and keeping it dry as well a giving some protection from cold and sightseers. A pretty and prosperous little town. Then on to the Abbe d’Aulne where we stayed above the ecluse for the night. A peniche going down was somewhat impatient and squeezed us as he entered the lock, but caused no damage except filling the galley shelf with water as he accelerated! Our only negative action from these busy people. He was an older man, so may be that explains it! The abbey itself was just a shell, but had obviously been very large. Its ruins were sufficient to justify a village composed almost entirely of eight or so bars/restaurants and a hotel. Its proximity to Charleroi may have helped that.
Saturday, 11 September
We didn’t get away as early as we had planned, but washed down the outside of the boat and windows. Then on to Charleroi. The lock as we entered should have warned us. It was huge. Probably 200 metres by 12. And it dropped us about 6 metres. From then on the river banks are concrete with steps about every 100 metres. They must have cleared the floating rubbish at the lock, but the water was like oil mixed with coal dust. The town from the canal is the heaviest engineering I have seen. Mostly scrap metal recovery, with much of the raw material coming in by barge and the coal from the area. The result is dust, noise and visual ugliness, but fascinating to see. Charleroi lasts about a couple of hours including two locks. It gradually improves as you move east, but at 20 km from town we are regularly seeing big factories and slag heaps. It must be hugely prosperous for someone.
We had a little worry and excitement. Ian ran over what he thought was a plastic bag, and suddenly we lost power with vibrations. Reversing nearly stalled the motor. Clearly something on the propeller, so we moored (with difficulty) and Ian removed the prop access cover, reached down into the unknown and felt fabric wound into a rope, but with some manoeuvring removed what turned out to be a woman’s jacket in a plastic fabric. We have just passed through our last lock for the day and are looking for a site.
We found one on a vertical wall at a town called Floreffe, which boasts a large seminary on the top of the hill overlooking the river. It has a beautiful set of Carillon bells, which unfortunately are not very loud. And there is a great view over the Sambre Valley. In spite of the vertical wall, the wash of passing boats lasted for several minutes as it reflected along the concrete walls.
Sunday, 12 September
We liked the town, and although initially stayed because we thought the canal was closed on Sundays, didn’t change our mind when we found it was open to pleasure craft (which meant less wash from big boats). As a bonus, we arrived back from our meal in the old mill brasserie, to find Tollie and Jasmine, an Australian couple with their Dutch built "Calando" parking behind us. Ian also did some painting of the deck, which has freshened the appearance,
Monday’ 13 September
On to Namur. There were only two locks and we reached the confluence town with the dominant fortifications between the rivers. We stayed at the port about 1 km up the Meuse. How much cleaner this river was, though the peniches still rocked the boat it didn’t last as long. We explored the local shops and Lorna looked at clothes but didn’t buy.
Tuesday, 14 September
We put the clothes through a Laundromat and got Ian’s film developed and returned to the boat to find our Aussie friends had arrived. In the afternoon Lorna went to the Namur shops which she reports as lovely, but nothing caught her Eye or credit card. Ian joined the others on a bike ride through the citadel (the fortifications on the hill). They had been in continual development since about 500 AD and it was almost impregnable. Tolley sprayed Ian with perfume and it wasn’t until we were in bed that evening that it was noticed and questions asked, as Tolley had intended!. We barbecued a chicken in their stainless steel barby and enjoyed a good chat. An Essex couple, Wendy and Les Hughes from Burnham on Crouch, boat Galvia also joined us.
Wednesday, 15 September
We left Namur and our new friends and headed south again. Unfortunately it was drizzling much of the day – our first such day in Europe since 25 June. The Meuse is beautiful. A series of six locks and large beautiful houses all up the river’s edge kept us excited. Eventually we moored at Dinant with its huge church in front of the cliff surmounted by another citadel. This time Lorna did buy an outfit in the shops – a lovely trouser and blouse set. We ate and read and the drizzle continued.
Thursday, 16 September
Condensation on the windows, but outside a little mist and a nearly clear sky. The Meuse from here was even more beautiful. The houses were obviously owned by the well off, and large. A mixture of old and newer in the traditional style. The Meuse turned back on itself for a couple of km before heading straight into France. We got another 80 litres of diesel before the border, locked into France and then 3 km to Givet. Ian and Lorna biked around to find their bearings including the railway station to meet Ray and Ann the next day. Then Ian went to a bricolage while Lorna returned to the boat. When Ian found the boat key in his pocket, he expected trouble, but arrived back to find Lorna enjoying a beer at the bar by the boat with the comment that she had made up her mind. This was the life and we were coming back next year. Ian replied that he was pleased, but hadn’t yet decided! We had a message on the phone advising us of their arrival at 10.55 am when we returned into the SFR signal area.
Friday, 17 September
Drizzle was back. We met Ray and Anne as planned and walked back with the cases on the bikes about a km. Shopping at SHOPPI and lunch then on to Fumet. 25 km and 7 locks and a 200 m tunnel. With the clouds starting to clear it became more pleasant. Ian and Ray went for a walk to get a 5 litre vin de pays and a lettuce, Lorna located a washing machine in the Capitainerie for use in the morning. There wasn’t a mooring fee at this lovely port, but separate charges for power, laundry and showers. We had roast chicken for dinner and a comparatively early night after Ray and Anne’s early start.
Saturday, 18 September
The rain had passed, but there was scattered cloud. Lorna did the laundry and Ian scrubbed the starboard side of the boat, removing most of the signs of bad lock entries. There are a lot of times we are grateful for having an ex hire boat. The French part of the Ardennes is as picturesque as the Belgian, but with fewer towns. The river wound through wooded hills, just starting to turn their autumn colours on. A few more days like this. It drizzled from time to time and we hurried off the deck after each lock. We moored on a comfortable wall for the night in Montherme, the centre of hunting and tramping in the Ardennes.
Sunday, 19 September
The last day in this wooded section of the Ardennes. The sun was out most of the day and we had a 4 hour cruise into Charleville-Meziers. Here, two large sweeps of the Meuse enclose the separate towns, which have been merged in the 1960’s. The canal cuts off these two loops, with a port de Plaisance 1km back up one loop, near the town centre. We investigated the town and were fascinated by a marionette clock, which displayed a new part of a story each hour, We dined out that night at a Pizzeria/restaurant and had a lovely meal. Jo rang this evening and updated us on her life. Ray and Anne have been up-dating us on the changes in NZ since we left too. No Tree Hill, eh!?
Monday, 20 September
We had a leisurely start and left about 11, only to get held up by a faulty door at the first lock for 1½ hours. The result was we had to allow a peniche to overtake us. No problem, except that it was heavy laden and travelling slowly, so we were impeded. We learned a lesson. Instead of travelling slowly we should have tail-gated it, because when we caught up after a very slow bit, he allowed us passed. The peniche pilots are usually courteous. We passed a couple of war memorials and saw a number of old bunkers. We arrived at Sedan about 5 pm, and cycled to Leclerc supermarket. These are huge. Anyway we stocked for the next few days and had Paté de croute for dinner.
Tuesday, 21 September
Th equinox. Not a very nice morning weatherwise, so it really is Autumn. About 13 overnight and up to 25 yesterday. This morning, Ian cycled off to see an Artisan carpet factory. It made NZ Axminster look 21st century. The newest machine was 125 years old. A huge old factory, belt run, only a couple of machines are still used, but they emphasise the craft and French angles and encourage tourists.
Then we all looked at the local citadel – the biggest in Europe. It is huge and served its part in the 1st WW, both in initially holding the Germans back, and then as a prison for French partisans. Thousands were imprisoned and died in it!
We left Sedan about mid-day for Mouzin. The sun was trying to shine but there were also occasional showers. I have been surprised at how open this country is. The hill-tops are roughly level and this valley winds leisurely through it. There are a lot of woods or forests. On the river flats are cattle and cows and on the slopes are huge agricultural farms.
We didn’t stop in Mouzin, but tied to a couple of trees, by a horse paddock. The horses were so tame we could pat them. During the night our sleep was broken by the flapping of our tarpaulin in the wind and rain.
Wednesday, 22 September
It was a colder day with scattered showers. It seemed to rain each time we got to a lock. We stopped in Stenay for lunch and overnighted at a nice port at Dun-sur Meuse. It has an old church on the hill, which we went up to. This area was heavily shelled in WWI as it was about 20 km on the German side of the battle front and was eventually liberated by the Americans. That night we had heavy thunder, but the next day dawned clearing.
Thursday, 23 September
As the day progressed, the clouds cleared into a lovely autumn day. Back to driving without a shirt, on the cabin top. We were into WWI country, though little sign of it except for the guide books, and several towns with all 20th century houses. We had lunch at one of these, Consenvoye, and arrived at Verdun before 6pm. After dinner we had a look around the river area. The pleasure port has been temporarily shifted across the river to enable re-landscaping of the river frontage. It looks as if we will have free parking and power for the two or three days we stay. We ate our dinner tonight on the stern deck.
Friday, 24 September
Awoken by bleeping from the construction work across the river, after breakfast Ian and Raymond biked up to the main battlefield of WWI. It is a thought provoking sight. Especially the huge memorial for the allied dead. Again Ian was impressed with the flatness of the landscape looking north from the hill forts. It was a beautiful sunny day for cycling. We are going to stay a day longer and do some painting of the boat if the weather holds. The low quay is ideal, and the free power is enticing. We were shouted a lovely meal that evening at The Forum.
Saturday, 25 September
We ran the engine for ½ an hour to get warm water for the showers, and saw Raymond and Anne off at the station at 10. Then we stocked up at Leclerc supermarket. In the afternoon Ian scrubbed the hull in preparation for painting the strakes (or whatever those protective wooden strips, capped with steel along the side of the boat are called) which showed signs of rust stains where they joined the fibreglass. They looked good in spite of the threatening showers.
Sunday,26 September
After breakfast we had a walk around the ton and inspected the sub-terrainean citadel (which was a hospital and reserve barracks in 1914-18. The cathedral was impressive with its lovely tracery and crypt. It had suffered major damage in WWI and some in WWII. In the afternoon Ian painted aluminium paint on the steel protection to finish the job. That’s when we met Rene van der Reek who helped Ian to repair some damage to the front section of the upper fender which we had damaged in our second lock on the Rhone when we were still learning to moor. We used long screws through the polypropylene and fibreglass into a block of wood Ian managed to insert through the anchor opening on the deck, though with some concern he wouldn’t get his elbow back through the hole. We ended up sharing meals with Rene and Goeske on their 90 year old boat Overijssel, somewhat modified over the years. By coincidence we both made beef stews of types. Theirs had an Indonesian influence and ours had kidneys etc.
Monday, 27 September
Under way again. We left with Overijssel in tandem and after 5 hours and as many locks moored at Lacrois sur Meuse for the night. Just a small town with not much more than an epissiere (small grocer) with bread for the morning. Ian was grizzling about an ulcer on his tongue and a sore throat, which ruined a lovely meal.
Tuesday, 28 September
Today was a short 2 hour cruise to St Mihiel. A lovely town that was overtaken by the Germans during WWI. with a nice port at the best price. We were now getting rain most mornings that clears in the afternoon. Tonight we entertained Rene and Goeske for lunch and in the evening they invited us to share their meal. Sauerkraut, Dutch sausage and a potato based dish.
Wednesday, 29 September
Lorna and Ian decided to stay for a do-nothing-much-day and farewelled R & G as they proceeded towards a winter on the Midi. So herl we are. Lorna walked in the rain to the village, Ian played with the computer trying to get the hang of windows 95 and is now writing this entry for the last five days! It looks like rain all day, but we are head of schedule, tomorrow is forecast better, and I am getting prepared to watch rugby at 4pm on Sunday. I now know all matches will be broadcast live on Canal-A so am quite hopeful we will find a bar or shop to watch at. L’Equipe has a special section for the Coupe de Monde de Rugby with all information. I have just told a man from the VNF that we will be at the lock tomorrow at 10am. What great service. Later in the day we walked around the village and admired the 16th c houses and the sculptures by the town’s 16th c artist in a couple of old churches. An amazing full scale piece of the placing of Christ’s body in the tomb.
Thursday, 30 September
The last day in September! It is getting cooler, though not cold. Bit of a problem this morning. As we ate our meusli Ian found a lump in is mouthful which turned out to be the lower half of his upper left, 2nd incisor tooth. Lorna reckoned he looked better with it so we searched St Mihiel; for a dentist. The problem was "ferme Jeudi" – closed Thursday, a bit like the old NZ doctors Wed afternoon!. So we decided to go on to Commercy where after arriving at 1.30, an immediate search of the town located the one dentist who wasn’t ‘fermé jeudi’. He had time to apply a very natural temporary cap to get me home, and for cash it was only FF100 instead of a fully documented FF300! The town was OK, and we were comfortably moored so we stayed the night. We helped a couple of late arriving hire boats to moor, and the Israeli families aboard thanked us by giving us a plate of 7 falafel cakes, perfectly spherical. They also gave us their address in case we are ever in Israel! (Note in Jan 2001- the family migrated to NZ in Sept 2000).
Friday, 1 October
Having booked a 10 am start we set out in the usual morning drizzle. We locked all 5½ hours with a party of Swiss on a hire boat. We only saw two commercial craft, and about 5 hire boats all day as we climbed with 5 locks to the edge of the Meuse Valley, by now a very wide expanse, joined with the Ardennes Canal, passed through the 750m Foug tunnel, and the down 12 locks to Toul. These last ones were automated. Your exit from one lock prepared the next for entry, you raised a pipe switch to advise you were ready and the gates shut, the water ran out and the exit gates opened to repeat the cycle. Toul is a larger town, dominated by a huge but simple citadel. This comprises an earthen wall, faced with stone and surrounded by a moat, completely enclosing the old town. It repulsed the German invasion in 1870 and again in WWI.
We caught up again with Overijssel and also met Pam and Bruce from Freemantle, Aust with their boat Cygnet Noir. Ian walked around the Ville Centre looking for a bar which would be showing the All Blacks v Tonga on Sunday evening and had success and a celebratory Pastis at the Les Sports Brasserie. So we are all set.
Saturday, 2 October
We were so relaxed we stayed in bed until after 9, and the whole day was late. No problem. Then at the laundry, the machine wouldn’t stop and we had to go through the whole cycle again. I rang Joanne to wish her a happy birthday and later while at Cygnet Noir had a call from Michael. Both were well and in good spirits. So lunch was at three and we got to have a drink with Pam and Bruce about 4pm. We swapped events, ideas and stories until about 7. Very pleasant. They have a similar boat to the other one we looked at last October and with the extras they had put in, it were very comfortable.
Sunday, 3 October
Ron’s birthday today. And the All Black’s won. Ian managed to paint the scratches on the green area above the waterline in a paint that may age to the same shade! But we couldn’t find a restaurant for dinner so we went back to the boat. It is getting cooler now and we go to bed and read.
Monday, 4 October.
We had intended going as far as the start of the Canal de lEste South Branch, but we stopped at Connoiseur Boats and bought second-hand fridge to up-grade our old one. He checked the batteries, and confirmed our opinion that they needed replacing. Then on to the Moselle, through a peniche sized lock before turning along side a road and filling up with diesel from the supermarket across the road. We also filled the containers as it was so convenient. Then on again, but we had lost so much time that we only made Maron, a charming little forest resort town not very far from Nancy. On the way, and again at our first lock the next day we went up in a huge lock over 7 metres. These were the last of similar locks up the Moselle from the Rhine.
Tuesday, 5 October
We plan to get to Charmes today and are now passing under a tunnel of trees on one of the most picturesque areas we have been in. Fortunately this morning’s rain has stopped, though it is still chilly. We have just crossed the Moselle on a canal-bridge and have a lock-keeper travelling in his car with us for 10 locks. We will stop for lunch together at the next lock. The canal here was beautiful, with the trees completely bridging the canal to create a tunnel
Well, it is now the 11th and I am writing this in arrears. We did get to Charmes as it started to drizzle. We met Overijssel again and learnt Fleur was having trouble with her back. After a little shopping and an unsuccessful attempt to find a restaurant we had an early night. It helps you keep warm!! We haven’t yet got the gas heater going and think we will get an electric heater.
Wednesday, 6 October
We left for Epinal and had to wait for two other boats to exit the first lock. At the next one we made up a threesome, which would have continued all day, except that one of the boats had a fault with its starter. We went ahead as the other boat gave it a tow for some reason, and then they went aground. When I returned to see what was happening, the captain of the boat in trouble was swimming for the shore with a rope on a fender for buoyancy. It was freezing – well not quite, but still cold. Anyway the spare eclusier took charge of this boat and the other (Sirius with Klauss, Lilo, and Angela from Koln) joined us to continue. But it was still a slow trip with the eclusier having to set the locks for emptying before moving on in his car to open the next one. Inevitably, we either dawdled between locks or waited. In the end we decided to give Epinal a miss, have an early evening (the sun was now shining) and we had dinner at a pizza restaurant. Both of us chose the river fish dish and found it ok – but maybe a pizza would have been tastier!
Thursday, 7 October.
We had moored at the foot of a flight of 15 locks. At 9.00 we started up with two eclusiers on scooters, and by 11.30 we were at the top. We let the other boat continue along the top pond and went to Leclerc’s to buy a heater. They only had one in stock and wouldn’t sell it as it was the demo! Anyway, with our pack of food we returned to the boat and rejoined the others at the top of the first of the downward locks we would have all the way to St Jean de Losne. By 4.30 we were 8 locks down and parked for the night. That evening Ian decided to attempt again to get the gas heater going. Hurrah. The problem was that we didn’t realise it was black heat and had turned it off when the red glow at start-up started to disappear. So now we were warm in the cabin in the evenings.
Friday, 8 October
We were aiming for Fontenoy le Chateau as we thought it might be big enough to have a bar etc with a TV. Today was one of the nicest lengths of canal we had seen, though unfortunately the sun wasn’t shining to give its real benefit. There were all shades of green and red. Initially it was quite open country but closed into a shallow valley. All the way down were small villages, possibly associated with farms behind, but also isolated factories. Fontenoy; all disappointment – no mail, no TV, quite expensive port facilities for its location and cold. We stopped the night on the free side of the canal, turned our heater on and decided to continue the next day to Corre that appeared slightly bigger on the map.
Saturday, 9 October.
We checked again for mail, then rang Marjorie and Bill who were out, but Margaret and Gerald were home and we got news from NZ. Then on to Corre. An nice port, reasonably priced, and a very helpful lady capitaine who was very helpful ringing around the bar and restaurant for the TV but the had only TV France, not canal+. Sadly we checked the town out, and as a last chance Ian sought assistance from the local TV firm who invited us to watch the game there in their workshop. So at 5.30 we were back with a bottle of wine for them and watched the All Blacks do the Poms. In between, both of us had much needed haircuts. All in all it had been a good decision to come to Corre.
Sunday, 10 October
We stayed the day at Corre, Ian fitted the fridge to the 230 volts as we were having trouble with the battery charger blowing fuses. In the afternoon we had a bike ride and enjoyed reading for the rest of the day.
Monday, 11 October.
We wanted to do a load of washing before starting so while it worked we
walked to the lock and talked with an American couple on Clair de Lune, a peniche
on which they live and about 8 weeks a year take paying Americans which covers their
annual costs. In addition to giving us a plate of cheeses that they would have to replace
as they were getting new guests, they recommended we don’t stay at H2O but rather at
Bourgogne Marine. However we will need to get there by Thursday evening as the lock into
the yard will be closed for three weeks after that. So today, a beautiful sunny day we
cruised into and down a very small Saone River. The country is a wide flat valley with
dairy and beef cows. What a difference the sum makes. Ian was back on the cabin top
steering with his feet. And lunch was delightful. As we ate the new cheeses. 
We paused at Port sur Saone for cash and some meat and pressed on to Scet sur Saone where we moored at the side of a hire-boat port. Only a 1km bike ride for bread in the morning.
Tuesday, 12 October
On the way for the bread, Ian heard the strangly familiar sound of a milking plant. Driven by a tractor power take-off, the milk was sucked into a spherical reservoir on a trailer on the roadside from a two cow stand behind a door which the farmer kept closed! It was foggy at first with promise of a clear day, and by 11 the sun was out. We have had a good days travel, non-stop except for locks. The Saone is winds around and a lot of the bigger meanders have been cut off with canals in which the locks would be. A couple of times these involved tunnels about 6-700 metres long. The second was a bind as a large boat was in front and only went at about 2 km/h, making it hard to steer.
We had intended to do about 40 km, but our good start and reasonable run has allowed us to get to Gray, 26 km further. We are now very relaxed about reaching our destination by Thursday night.
At Gray the Saone is about 100 metres wide, with a lovely public quay close to a supermarket, but without diesel. We found a Cyberbar at 1FF a minute and as well as a drink we read our email – only one message. The old town is on a hill and a lovely shopping street along the bottom.
I must mention our realisation of the derivation of a common saying. We are again seeing moorhens and coots. They both react to disturbance much the same, but the coots are stupider. As silly as a coot!
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We left about 9.30, with only one lock for the day, above which we met the Marne a Saone Canal. There were still a number of hire boats, but only one commercial boat for the day. We ate our lunch as we travelled, and got to Auxonne about 3pm. We explored the town that still had lots of signs of the old citadel walls and an artillery manufacturing forge. We bought some gifts paint for the deck.
But the excitement of the day was a phone call from Bill and Marjorie who had tried several times earlier in the week when we were out of cellular range.
Thursday, 14 October
After a 9.30 start, we reached Bourgogne Marine at about 1130. Ian walked up the canal about 200 metres and met Roger Walsall who offered us a place moored against a boat owned by 4 New Zealanders, including Warren Shave who I worked with in my old UEB days. He is a computer analyst. They had just gone home. However we met another NZ couple, Ann and Alan Gawith from Masterton. Their boat, a 26 metre barge that needs a lot of work, is currently called Marianne but they may rename it after all the conversion , possibly to Hercules. Most importantly, he had been invited to another boat, Seabird owned by Brian and Maggie, to watch NZ play Italy. So armed with all of this we proceeded 4 km downstream to St Jean de Losne to fill the tank with diesel for wintering, and to call on Crown Blue to check on mail and send a fax to Vaughan at St Gilles. No mail yet, but a worthwhile discussion with Philippe the local manager.
Back to Bourgogne Marine, up the one lock, and moored alongside Dankbaarheid and rushed along to Seabird to watch all 101 points, though some of them were doubtful. But Jeff Wilson enjoyed his game. While watching we asked all sorts of questions, especially relating to shipboard TV and satellite reception. Dankbaarheid is owned by New Zealanders including Louise and Warren Shave (who was at UEB and later Cavalier when I was there)
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Roger came back to the boat later to discuss work to be done over the winter. I have to change the oil and filters, and they will assist in preparing the boat for the winter. It is FF118 per week for berthage and FF181 per hour for labour. We expect to be here for 35 weeks until next year.
We also will want to improve the drivers seat, perhaps install a car heater and/or a small 230v heater to heat up the water for showers when we are not running the boat. Another idea is a stern extension to transport the bikes without having to lift them on to an untidy heap on the roof.
Friday, 15 October
A foggy day all day to start on our tidy up. And damn. Bad enough for the f word! Ian was cleaning the roof and suddenly he folded in pain. The same pain as last week, which had practically gone and now worse than ever. Since 11 this morning he has been a pain in the neck! The broom is now a crutch to assist movement. Lorna is sorting rubbish from things to keep and we await Roger to test the batteries.
Saturday, 16 October
Not a lot more to report. Ian finished a book and continued to struggle on his ‘crutch" to the toilet. Lorna, in addition to waiting on him hand and foot, met the neighbours, cleaned etc. Roger tested the domestic batteries and they are stuffed. Lorna met the "Banette" bread lady who calls daily between 7.45 and 9.15. Door to door and it is still cheaper than most places we have been to.
Sunday, 17 October
The day dawned fine and clear. The cripple improves and does a bit of maintenance. Joanne rang and is ok to meet us on Friday. Lorna continues the clean up. We are now sleeping in the saloon as it is easier to roll out of bed and the bedroom is empty. So the bed is covered in clothes. Lorna is still concerned with a damp patch on the "carpet’" at the foot of our bed. Investigation shows dampness under the head of the bed and leads to the discovery of a removable headrest, which exposes the anchor chain store. Any rainwater coming through should run down the peak of the hull into the bilge. Unfortunately it meets 3 bags of cement which have been thrown in for ballast and which absorb the water becoming saturated and saturate the wood they come in contact with. Thus our damp problem. With Ian’s bad back he will have to fix it next summer, but in the meantime we will cover the bow to prevent water entering.
Monday, 18 October
A cold wind. The tidy-up continued. We also had a trip with Ann to St Jean de Losne, when we bought a fan heater for use when moored in ports with shore supply. She offered to take us to Dole to collect our rental car for driving to Charles de Gaulle Airport on Thursday. We had planned a two day hire, but it was FF650 for one day and FF1350 for two, so one day it is.
Tuesday, 19 October
Ian changed the oil and filter. He forgot to change the filter and had to drain the oil again before getting it right! The weather was cold and we were grateful for the heater. Ian biked to St Jean de Losne for a tarpaulin to cover the bow. We paid for our mooring until 31 Dec 99 and have arranged for Roger to winterise the boat, check the prop shaft seal and glow plugs as starting has been sluggish, and the fire extinguishers when his contractor calls.
Wednesday, 20 October, 1999
A miserable day for our final clean-up. By the end of the day the cases were packed, the bow covered, measurements made and we had had a lovely meal at Ann and Allan’ s.
Thursday, 21 October
We had our last baguettes and Ann and Allan took us to Dole (12 km away) where we loaded our clothes in to the laundry machines, walked to the Avis depot to arrange for the car, returned to the laundry to dry the clothes and took it all back to the railway station, where we picked up our car. Then back to the boat, where we closed our cases, and loaded the car in ½ an hour. So at 2.30 we headed for the motorway, via Dijon, Tours to Melun. Ian was driving and we stopped about once an hour to let his back unfold. It was a lovely day for driving and the French countryside was beautiful. The trees were in autumn colours, though as yet there haven’t been frosts. It is a huge fertile country. We were looking for a Formula 1 hotel and stumbled on one on the outskirts of town (FF119 per night). Then we had our last meal in a restaurant in the Market Square. It was the best restaurant meal we had had.
Friday, 22 October
After breakfast we headed up the very busy A104 around the eastern edge of Paris, in drizzling rain to Charles de Gaulle Airport. The car had only used FF96 of diesel, but the motorway toll from Dijon to Melun was FF109. We had to fill in from 10.45 to 2.50. but a piece of luggage left unattended created a diversion for about half an hour. We shared a pizza and a jug of wine, Lorna bought some perfume and we left for England where Joanne met us.