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2006 Journal

 

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Saturday, 17 June 2006

 

We left Auckland on the evening of Sunday 11 June, flew via Los Angeles and London Heathrow to Charles de Gaulle.  We have almost got over jet lag, and most things are operational.

 

The flight was OK; started almost 3 hours late, making the transfer at Los Angeles a bit of a hurry, plenty of time at LHR to change terminals, but make sure we didn't’t make the mistake of 2003 and miss the flight, and had a smooth flight to CDG, where we found that BA are still able to lose a suitcase.  Well not lose it, as it was already listed as found at LHR.  Yes they would deliver it to Lois’ ASP.  Certainly tomorrow.  And they did, about 2pm.  We had a pleasant night, slept like logs, but were frustrated to have to hang around waiting for the suitcase.  It was a pleasant, 4½ hour drive to St Jean de Losne.  The boat was in excellent condition.  The covers were intact and there was little dust inside.

 

We had some trouble getting the water pump to work properly (the non-return valve was sticking).  After a quick drive to Casino Supermarket for initial stocks, bread and cheese for tea, we were in bed about 9pm.

 

On Tuesday we went to the larger Intermarché to fill the car with petrol, and 4x20 litre cans with diesel, replace the empty CNG cylinder and stock up the larder.  The rest of the day was tidying up.  Ian returned the car to Dijon Station on Wednesday, and we continued working on the boat.  Ian also started action for the steel pipe needed to complete the davit for lifting the Power bike.  They have ordered a 6m length as cut-length service is not available.  However a smaller size was delivered, and after consultation about how it will be attached, a replacement was ordered and will come on Tuesday.

 

We spent a pleasant evening with Bill and Joy, who’s boat is having its bottom shone and painted, in their little apartment that Blanquart’s have for clients.  We still hope to leave mid next week.  It will be half time at Eden Park just now.  But we will get the results quite quickly as we are using Blanquart’s wireless network.  It’s free and quite fast.

 

Monday, 19 June 2006

 

We called Cuck’unda (Frederick and Janice (from Bundaberg, Aus about 47 years ago) who own an ex Prince like Erewhon) after the 9.30 network and called to see them in the afternoon.  Not in, but later they called on us.  We planned our attendance at Sunday’s Pardonne (Blessing of the boats) and swapped news.  About 9pm we walked up to the quay and watched the kids enjoying typical fun-fair rides etc, the final selection of Miss Losne and then a great fireworks display across the Saone.

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Yesterday we started the boat (by jumping the domestic and starter batteries), and joined dozens of other peniches and boats for a day of fun.  Plenty of sun, good food and conversation with Bill and Joy and also

 

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But the boat wouldn't’t start to come home, and ignominiously, we were towed back by Cuck’unda.  The electrician checked us out today, found one of the house batteries was still OK and we switched them around so it is now starter and the poor three should be OK as house battery.  The boat certainly starts OK now.

 

So this afternoon Ian is working on the fittings to support the derrick which we hope to fit tomorrow.  The temperature in the shade is only 32.6?

 

Thursday, 22 June 2006

 

Ian persevered with the derrick, and it looked good, but when we trialed it this morning, the steel tube was too light and bent.  So we will need a heavier gauge pipe. In the meantime the bike will sit on the tail and only be available from pontoons and low moorings.

 

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This morning we farewelled them all, and have come 3 hours up the Saone. to Auxonne, where we have moored on a wall.  Pontoons are available, but we don’t need the bike.  I am going to try and send off emails including the first section of our journal.

 

Friday, 23 June 2006

 

I am cross with myself.  I haven’t loaded IPASS since I we bought the new computer.  So I can’t send emails using Outlook Express.  When I next find a wireless connection I will fix that.

 

We explored the Auxonne market this morning, bought a rotisserie chicken and had a mid-day dinner.  Then, this afternoon we made the 2 hour trip to Pontaillier sur Saone.  Unfortunately our house batteries appear to be nearly stuffed – they can’t run the spin-drier even while the engine is running, so we will nurse them until we can find new ones at a fair price.

 

But it’s a beautiful evening and we are back to reading again.

 

Saturday, 24 June 2006

 

What a lovely day.  We left Pontaillier about 9, felt embarrassed when, an instant after lifting the blue lever to the last river lock, we saw a boat approaching.  Too late; once you start you go!

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But the Canal de Marne à Saone. has been lovely as we leisurely made our way up 8 locks and 18 km to moor for the night in the shade of some large trees, a km from a village we hope will sell bread tomorrow.  In the middle of the day we spent 3 hours in similar shade, eating, reading and finally doing some cleaning.

 

Monday, 26 June 2006

 

We didn’t get bread for breakfast, as it opened at 9.00.  However Ian returned at 9.00 for a baguette for lunch and we were off.  It was pleasantly warm and later in the day turned to thunderstorms.  We stopped under a bridge for lunch, and continued up a mix of manual locks operated by uni students on holiday jobs and automatic locks with radar sensors to start the sequence.  We moored for the night as rain threatened, about 5.30.

 

Today we continued from 9.00 this morning, with all automatic locks to the top.  Twice we tried local villages for bread for lunch, both times to find “C’est lundi, c’est fermé”.  The last locks were over 5 metres deep, with a second, and on some, a third bollard to shift to as we rose.  Then, without waiting we were granted approval to pass through the 5 km tunnel – lit by fluorescents.  TunneiSaoneaMarne.jpg (828125 bytes)

 

Exciting at first, but all tunnels become boring after a while.  40 minutes later we emerged and passed down 2 locks to Langres.  We are moored with free water and electricity.  We plan to stay and explore as well as do a few jobs for 2 days.  The batteries have been ok for lighting and water pumping, but don’t like driving the inverter for the washing!  Still no wireless so Ian can download the IPASS programme.

 

Tuesday, 27 June 2006

 

We’ve spent the day at Langres and four pleasure boats have arrived going south and a commercial boat has gone north.  It seems typical of the traffic on the canal.  We used the electricity to help with a load of washing, sorted out the water hose fittings, took Daisy off the boat and used it for a shopping excursion to a Champion Supermarket, and later to explore the walled city on the hilltop.  While there, we read our incoming emails and were pleased to read that Frank is recovering well from his op.  Several told us of the terrible weather NZ is having. We also started planting our small herb garden and Lorna had a few rides on Daisy.  It’s a beautiful place and we will stay a day or two more.

 

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Wednesday, 28 June 2006

 

A quiet day, some cloud keeping it cooler.  We have done a few jobs, including tidying up the stern shelter fittings, mending a Briscoes chair, and chatting with the boaties in port.  7 peniches are programmed to pass tomorrow morning, going south.  We have booked to leave after lunch, going north.

 

Thursday, 29 June 2006

 

Two boats, going south, left port at 8am to lead a peniche loaded with iron through the tunnel.  After breakfast we did a load of washing (2 Dutch boats were also using similar spin driers) and used Daisy to go to an Intermarché to stock up.  In addition to groceries, we bought a parsley plant to add to our garden!  After lunch we continued 3 hours on our way and, to keep out of the sun are now moored 2 km north of the port at Rolampont, satisfied by leeks with barbequed chicken legs.  We are not sure if our phone account or connection is ok.  We are probably out of area, but will check in Chaumont tomorrow or Saturday.

 

Saturday, 01 July 2006

 

I am off to a wifi site shortly, so will update.

 

Yesterday we met more peniches in a day than for a long time- seven. And this morning 2 more passed before we got up, and 3 since.

 

It was a warm 30 deg day, easy locks and we arrived about 4pm at Chaumont, the first paying port we have had since St Jean de Losne.  €8.60 incl electricity.  The Germans behind us were excited when their team won a semi-final berth in the World Cup!

 

This morning we took Daisy off with the gang-plank and explored the town at the top of the hill.  We checked at SFR and it appears the phone is all OK.  So we have bought a card for the last 2 months, which still will work in Belgium.

 

Tuesday, 04 July 2006

 

I was lucky with the wifi site.  It was free and I was able to download the IPASS programme as well as catch up on some news.

 

Later in the afternoon we moved 1 km up the canal and moored above the next lock, from where we did a good stock-up at Leclerc Supermarket. On Sunday we had lunch at Viéville, and stopped for the night at Froncle where we expected electricity and water, but found it is several months away and unlikely to be free when it happens!  It was hot in the sun, but we stayed two nights.  The second day we followed the shade as we enjoyed a rest day, including lunch at The Chateau Restaurant for only €12 each.  We were joined by Benny Jones on his boat ARCO from Wales who has a NZ partner who was back home for a visit.  We shared tea that night too, and enjoyed his company, as well as swapped books.  Then this morning we left at 9.00; it took 2 hours to get to this lovely port at Donjeux, with free water and electricity, and shade for the later part of the day.  We have done a load of washing, and spent much of the day reading and are now watching a developing and rather noisy thunderstorm.

 

Thursday, 06 July 2006

 

That storm didn’t come to much, but at Joinville the following night we had a beauty.  We got back to the boat from exploring the town just as the skies opened with noisy thunder overhead.

 

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We took 2 hours on a sunny morning to get to here, on a free mooring with 4 other boats.  We did a load of washing, a preliminary exploration of the town and last night, at a nearby pub, we watched France win the Football World Cup semi-final.  Today, the morning drizzled and we did a few little maintenance jobs.  This afternoon we visited the Chateau with the Grand Garden, a lovely 16th century combination.

 

Sunday, 09 July 2006

 

Vitry le Francois;  We left Joinville at 9.00; a pleasant day for travelling, passed our 2002 lunch mooring about 12 md and continued for over a hour further using automatic locks to our 2002 night spot.  After an hour for lunch and 2 heavy showers, we continued to St Dizier where we moored above the lock in the middle of town.  The main shopping area, 2-3 streets NW of the canal, was attractive and late in the day was quite busy.

 

But teenagers gathering in the evening encouraged us to shift 300 metres back from our original spot where we were twice asked to rescue a soccer ball.  But after that we had a quiet night and left as usual at 9.00 for a pleasant cruise to Vitry la Francois.  Ian likes this port, free with water and electricity and well shaded.  It is close to a modern small town (modern, because it has been nearly obliterated 3 times in the last 130 years!) and has 2 supermarkets, reasonably handy.

 

Ian started a few small jobs, including trying to stop leaks from rain, around the windows.  We did a load of washing and are now preparing to connect to the email tomorrow, using IPASS at the port information office nearby.

 

We are two days cruising from Reims, where we leave the boat to drive to Paula’s wedding in Sweden.  And we have two weeks to get there!

 

Tuesday, 11 July 2006

 

Great news.  We got IPASS to work after several tries. 

1                    The connecting plug wasn’t connecting, so no dial tone.

2                    Included xtra.co.nz in login.

3                    Didn’t remove dial up as only option.

 

So now we have all the in-mail on file and the Journal to date has gone to all those who requested it.  We also got Martin and Jacqui’s phone number.

 

Glorious sunny weather; if anything, too hot, so we have created as much shade as possible.

 

But we watched France get beaten by Italy in the World Cup Final.  So disappointing for us and the others in the bar.

 

Ian has attempted to repair the leaks we found last week, by removing screws and pumping sealant into the hole before replacing the screws.

 

Saturday, 15 July 2006

 

We left Vitry on Thursday (the locks were closed on Friday for Bastille Day) and stopped for two nights on the wall at Chalon en Champagne.  The port was never much and is now occupied by live-aboard residents.  But this is a lovely site and on Thursday night was a great place to watch the ½ hour plus fireworks display, the usual way French cities celebrate the birth of the Republic following the storming of the Bastille.  One of the most artistic we have seen.  Most of the Dutch who were at Vitry were also here.

 

On Friday, we explored the town admiring the civic square with a brass band playing to honour the day,  There are lovely parks, use of streams and precious old buildings, including a number of half timbered from the C18.  The cathedral was interesting to see the stages of its building over the centuries, starting at the C11.

 

This morning, after a small shopping at ATAC in the city centre, we continued to a small town, Mareuil sur Ay and are making use of the free electricity for a couple of days, during which we will explore Epernay etc around the champagne country with the help of Daisy.

 

Thursday, 20 July 2006

 

The mooring wasn’t free - €9 a day or €25 for 3 nights.  But a great place to stop.

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Since last Saturday we have had a relaxing, though very warm week.  There is talk of a heat wave developing, so we are grateful we leave here on Saturday in a rental car, travelling via Germany, Denmark to Seffle in Sweden for Paula’s wedding, returning through Holland 3 weeks later.

 

We enjoyed using Daisy to take us around the vineyards in the Epernay region.  What a sight, especially from high lookout points over miles and miles of grapes.

 

On Tuesday we left at 8am, returned 11 km and 3 locks to Condé, then up 8 to the tunnel and down 3 to Sillery.  We have had to write to the Mairie for permission to moor for more than 15 days, while we are in Germany and Scandinavia, but the capitaine says it will be OK.

 

There are a lot of boats here including Deése, owned by the O’Driscolls.  Last night we sat under a tree and shared supper and wine with them, and crews each from Britain, Canada (on LINQUENDA, who we first met at Castet en Dorthe), and Swiss.

 

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Ian rode Daisy into Reims to confirm the rental and check the route and transport in on Saturday to collect the car.  It looks like we’ll need a taxi; all’s well with the booking.

 

The heat continues, and Roly and Val left this morning.

 

In the meantime I tried wireless and got lucky with a free connection (my first), so have checked our email.

 

Saturday, 22 July 2006

 

The heat continued, with a party ashore on Thur and Fri.  We packed, put Daisy back on the tail-board and turned the boat around.  The Mairie OK-ed the extended mooring, so we paid 2x €52 for 30 days.  Most of the boats left the day we did.

 

At 9.30 we took a taxi to Reims, collected our rental car which we took back to the boat to load.  Then off to our friends on Medidinger nearby for lunch before setting out on 21 days of European exploration by car.

 

 

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To Sweden and back via Germany and Denmark

 

After a returning 80km to collect missing clothes, we cruised East, north of Nancy on the A4 into Germany, where we decided to stop for the night in HetfenLeidelheim?  A good choice, sleeping in a guesthouse and Italian food at a restaurant that had helped us find it!

 

Sunday, 23 July 2006

 

Going to stay 2 nights, it’s so lovely and also restful.  Explored the town on foot during the day.  Magnificent 7-800 year old houses etc – very tidy and prosperous looking.  Were somewhat disappointed by an advertised changing fountain and local orchestra.

 

Tuesday, 25 July 2006

 

We stopped at old church in Creglingen, with amazing wood carved alters from end of 15th Century.  Then we continued on to Rothenberg; we booked into a zimmer (roomy and tidy), then had an initial exploration of the Northern section of this walled town from the 1100.  At one time it was one of the ten largest towns in Europe.  With its walls and beautiful houses and turreted schloss it’s not to be missed.  About 3pm we returned for a rest, and in the evening returned to explore the southern section of the city and enjoy a German meal.  We finished with another Italian Ice Cream dish.

 

Wednesday, 26 July 2006

 

A 5 hour drive to Dresden, where we called at the visitor’s centre, quickly explored some of the centre and found accommodation in the suburbs.

 

Friday, 28 July 2006

 

The Zimmer was fine.  €52 including breakfast.  We had a Greek dinner.  On Thursday we took an €18 explorer coach excursion (great value) and also the explored the inner circle by foot.  What huge reconstruction has been achieved.  The town (250.000) looks almost back to its old self after the terrible nights bombing in Feb 1945.  Again it was hot both days and we welcomed cool showers when we got to our room.

 

We left Dresden after breakfast and drove a boring 2½ hours to Potsdam in the morning.  We found a zimmer, had salad lunches, and explored on another sightseeing bus.  This is a double ticket including tomorrow’s exploration of central Berlin.  This town was spectacular, and it still has highlights, but the rebuilding hasn’t happened as in Dresden.  It will, though it will take a couple of decades.  It was interesting to go over Glienicke Bridge, between Free Berlin and Soviet Germany, where spies were exchanged during the cold war.  Also to drive past ex KGB houses, and then to see the magnificent Sanssouci Park with its new chateau, now used by the university.  The old City schloss was destroyed in WW2 and the site cleared, but there are still plans to replace it!!  But the remnants of soviet construction stand out terribly all around.

 

Sunday, 30 July 2006

 

What a lovely day we had yesterday.  We took tram and train to Berlin Zoo Station, and used our Double Decker ticket to see the Berlin highlights in 2 hours.  The memorable features include:

 

The remnants of the church, with modern replacements for the missing section

Potsdamer Place, including the marking of the Berlin Wall

The remnants of the wall, which was surprisingly thin.  Only about 100 mm of reinforced concrete often painted (graffiti) on the west side.

The space where the old Emperor’s (Kaiser Wilhelm was the last in WW1, with Bismarck as Chancellor) Castle had stood (to be rebuilt)

The river/canal and original Berlin across it.

Brandenburg Gate

Reichstag (Parliament Buildings) with the new Glass dome

Tiergarten with small trees because the old ones were used as fuel in 1945.

 

We returned after 5pm and the tram route through Potsdam was blocked by a street party.  So, after cleaning up, we joined in for a good pork steak with potato salad and red cab-sab, eaten accompanied by great music from the 50-60’s.

 

Today we took it easy.  Shortly before lunch we explored Sans Souci (No Worries!), a beautiful terraced garden with gallery and fountains.  Then we drove through Babelsburg to look at the Schloss that reminds us of our friends, the babblers!  A great castle, but more for show than defence.  Later, Lorna had a swim on the edge of a lake, and we crossed the Glienicke Bridge again and took a photo of an old soviet petrol station, now a Harley Davidson Club!  The roads are terrible!  Soviet conditions. Paid our €132 for the accommodation for 3 nights and had a rest.  Tomorrow we sleep on a car ferry, between Rostok (Germany) and Trelleorg (Sweden).

 

Wednesday, 02 August 2006

 

The drive to Rostok was OK, with an hour hold-up at the start of the Hanover motorway.  Didn’t find a reason!  Rostok was a huge barren port, but it did possess one of the largest liquor stores and wine range we have seen.  So we stocked up to beat Swedish prices.  Then we had an awful meal at the port bistro, before boarding at 10 pm for an 11pm start.  OK bunks, but it was hard to get up when called at 5am for 6am arrival!  It was a lovely morning for the 6 hour drive to Stockholm, with a couple of ½ hour breaks.  We got lost entering Stockholm – we shouldn’t have, as all we had to do was follow the motorway signs, but with a 15 min loss we parked by the water and found our bearings.  Ian got SEK2000 and we eventually found an IBIS hotel in the suburbs, back down the road we came in on.  Then we got lost finding it!  ½ an hour later it was just by the off-ramp!

 

Today we parked (at SEK225 (about NZ$55)) in a central car-park and took a bus tour then a boat tour.  What a beautiful city. We can understand why Michael and Heather had raved about it when he was here.  Tonight we had a café style meal at Lyran Café with a lovely view looking towards the city.  It was a bit cold outside - only 18 deg.

 

We rang Jo to confirm her arrival and Mike to check all was OK; now off to bed.  By the way, this hotel has WIFI available through a pay system called homerun.

 

Tuesday, 08 August 2006

 

What a lot has happened since the last entry.

 

On Thursday we called at Karolinski Hospital and visited the intensive care ward where Mike had been successfully treated 10 years ago for Guyaume Barré syndrome to thank the present nurses!  Then we explored Rune Stones at Sigtuna, near the Airport where we collected Joanne.  Then we made a 4 hour trip to Seffle.  I had expected mountains, but the hills are quite low, with a number of lakes carved from the granite.  We found our cabin – it is basic but satisfactory.

 

Others arrived on Friday, including Mike and Sorella with Elliot who was his usual impish self.  There was a picnic meal in the evening by the huge lake as the sun set about 9.30.  Lois, Philippe, Frank and Dominique arrived after mid-night and joined us for Sat breakfast.  Mike, Sorella and Elliot had lunch with us and we were all ready for the 4pm outside wedding at the Manor House; 20 minutes and we were left to drink NZ wines while the Bridal group had photos.  Paula looked lovely, attendants in blue and boys with matching ties.  A gorgeous day just under 30 Degrees C.

 

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Dinner with excellent speeches and fun followed about 6 and dancing was still just starting when Lorna and Ian headed back to bed about 2pm.

 

On Sunday, after family breakfast, with Joanne, we left for Gotebourg, and stopped at Copenhagen after the exciting trip over the Baltic Straits on the spectacular 4 km bridge and a similar tunnel, connected by 3km Bleak Island.  Ian minded the car, illegally parked outside Tivoli Gardens, while the girls found lodgings in the Island Hotel, just opened a month ago.

 

We took the 1.5 hour open-top bus trip around the town, and Lorna was impressed by the picturesque buildings.  Ian felt they were a bit flat after Stockholm.  We agreed the water made the difference.  Then, after dropping Jo off at the Airport to fly home, we headed for Germany again.  We hadn’t expected the two huge bridges which connect the various parts of Denmark.  The first was high enough for ocean cruisers, and 11 km long, the second not so high, but also long.  After 3 hours we crossed the border into Germany, and 30 km down the road we stopped for the night at an ancient town, very charming Schleswig.  We found accommodation in a pub and ate a lovely fish meal in an old fishing village which was beautifully maintained.

 

We had planned to stop at Groningen, near the Dutch border, but decided to continue on to Sneek, a town surrounded by water.  It was Sneek-week and crowded with people.  We found the Crown-Blue base from where we had considered buying a boat in 1998, when we bought Erewhon.  Accommodation was short, but we got a lovely new listed tourist flat about 6 km from town, and were provided with supper and breakfast.

 

The next morning, Wednesday, we decided to drive back home to the boat.  It drizzled a bit, then rained heavily as we crossed Belgium.  We turned off the motorway near Ghent and stopped in Oudenaarde to look at our potential winter mooring.  We decided not to confirm at present, but to keep our eyes open for a place out of the water as we cruise.  It was a slower trip down the N-road, and after we returned to French motorways, Ian went half to sleep and missed a motor-way junction which cost us an extra 37km.  So we arrived home about 8 pm, rather tired.  Erewhon was just as we left it, and only had one small leak into a basin.

 

We returned the car today, Friday and we had done 5045 km in 12 days!  We had to pay an extra €28 for a small dent on a wheel cover!  We also used it to stock up the boat.

We Continue on Erewhon

 

Monday, 14 August 2006

 

On Saturday we had some discussion on how long we would continue this boating in France, and agreed we would work towards returning the boat next year to St Jean de Losne for sale.

 

We also had a welcome visit from Martin, Jacqui, Sue and David, whose boat is giving trouble with its hydraulic transmission.  We had a great talk.

 

The weather has been cold and unsettled since we returned to Erewhon, and on Sunday it had poured all night and continued as we set out to continue to Belgium.  A peniche allowed us through on a long stretch after Reims, and we stopped, with the rain still falling at Berry au Bac.  We had to continually empty the rain-water from the canvas shelter, but it did make life more pleasant for the crew!

 

Today we continued down the l’Aisne to Bourg au Comin, where we plugged into electricity to do a load of washing, since the sun was now out.  Then, flying our ‘flags’, we continued on to the Oise a l’Aisne Canal, through a 2.4 km tunnel and we are now moored at Tuilerie.  (It had electricity, but 2 large peniches with permanent live-aboards have taken both outlets.  It is also now drizzling.

 

Thursday, 17 August 2006

 

The next day cleared and we rode Daisy along the Route des Dames, looking at a couple of WW I memorials and cemeteries, then cut across country to the hilltop city of Laon.  Its cathedral (built in 1155) stands out from miles away.  We enjoyed a restaurant lunch and explored the town for 2-3 hours before returning to the boat. 

 

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We negotiated with the owner of one of the large boats for an electricity supply and did a double load of washing before continuing to Guny, topping up the larder at a supermarket at Pinon.  A Brit boat Maranoa with a US family shared the mooring.  We had more light rain during both nights, but fine during the day.

 

We crossed the Oise today and are two hours short of St Quentin.  Over the last 3 days Ian has done a few jobs including refixing the shower floor, fixing the windscreen wiper, and sealing a couple of the ventilators.

 

Sunday, 20 August 2006

 

The daily pattern of scattered showers continues.  On Friday we continued into St Quentin with its tall cathedral dominating the view.  At €16, it was the dearest port so far, so the next morning, after a load of washing and topping with water we left the port and moored above the railway station so we could walk to town and watch the All Blacks beat Aus in a very close game.  A British couple have suggested Armentières as a port for winter; very secure and a good price.

 

After 5.30 we continued north to the second lock, where discovered Marianne with Ann on board and Alan in hospital.  Also there on their boat KOTUKU were Raewyn and Gary Robinson from Gisborne.  We stayed the night after a long sharing of info.

 

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Tuesday, 22 August 2006

 

We stayed with the NZ'ers till Monday morning, and then about 10am we continued to the Riqueval entry to the tunnel, where we lined up with a Dutch launch, Pingu, owned by a Belgian family who were very helpful helping us plan our stay in Belgium, especially moorings in Ghent and Brugges; and a Brit couple John and Di on Sweety.  John contributes to PBO on making a fibreglass boat.

 

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We were lucky to be the lightest boat and were the last boat.  As usual, we used a long rope between us and the lead boat.  They suffered no damage, but it wasn’t easy for the other two.  We all moored 3 locks down and shared a few glasses of wine on EREWHON.

 

Ian biked 8 km looking for bread, but only got needed exercise and a look at a Worcestershire Regt memorial cemetery.  Then we have continued down an easy sequence into Cambrai where we got little for €10, except for 2 hours on a power point tomorrow to do 3 loads of washing!  Cambrai is a somewhat disappointing town, all rebuilt after WW I.  But we did get free internet access from a Jeunesse Office,

 

Wednesday, 23 August 2006

 

We did 3 loads of washing using the electricity and left at 12 noon.  We stopped for lunch on the canal-side at 1.30, explored the Bassin Ronde where there could be a winterising place if we need it, and continued down two large locks, shared with a modern peniche with ease.  We moor with the stern against the last sliding bollard and the mid rope transferred down bollards as we fall.  We are moored up a small side mooring behind an unloading peniche, and are OK till he leaves about 10am tomorrow.

 

Thursday, 24 August 2006

 

Ian walked for bread about 8.30, and we left about 9.30.  It drizzled much of the later part of the day, so we didn’t stop for lunch.  We led a large freighter into the first lock, and cruised just ahead of it, with the wind behind and deeper and wider water, at about 10 kph!  We checked out of France and into Belgium and are now comfy in Péronnes Yacht Club harbour.  €9.00 per night incl. showers and electricity.  And I have heard of good wintering across the harbour at a Chantier Fluvial.  And I will check their batteries too.  Our cell-phone seems to be working by roaming!

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Sunday, 27 August 2006

 

We have had a quiet weekend with some drizzle.  The club has a good value restaurant and has been busy each night till late.   Ian ordered a new 12V 180-250 amp-hour battery for €180, which they will be installing tomorrow about mid-day.  We also will be leaving the boat here for winter; in a shed, at €40 per month and only €60 to lift it in and out of the water!  We have been on a couple of walks and Ian rode Daisy into Antoine and checked the fuel barge and a small sheltered port.

 

Monday, 28 August 2006

 

We hung around all morning as the tail end of another storm swept over, and Marjorie Roelins delivered the battery, filling it with acid using a beaker and a funnel and her bare hands!  By the time we had tidied up, and paid by credit card, it was a late start at 4.45, quite quickly down the lock and up 3 km to Antoine where we filled with 120 litres of red Belgian Diesel at 72c/l and moored in the small port sheltered from the waves of the large boats.

 

Wednesday, 30 August 2006

 

We bought some veggies at the market, and left Antoine about 9.30am.  There is a narrow stretch in Tournai and we had to wait for a green light when two huge boats came through.  Later we had a hold-up at a lock which took 3 hours to clear.  A gas bottle must have fallen off a boat and was fished out from between the lock gate and its sill.  We tested the new battery by doing a wash and using the inverter to drive the spin-drier.  No problem.

 

With the delays, we arrived at Oudenaarde at 6.30, ready for a rest.  For a change, we have had no rain!  Today we found a baker, read e-mails, checked the bank accounts, covered the two tyres which we use as extra fenders in ports with Duck tape, rang Marg and Gerald at home (we had trouble getting the Belgian cabin phones to accept the YABBA access 0800 number, but were helped out this time in the town’s Belgicon shop) and stocked the larder at a local ALDI who we won’t use again, as they didn’t take VISA. ( ps.  I have since found out that YABBA does not work from payphones in Belgium.)

 

Saturday, 02 September 2006

 

Thursday, we explored Oudenaarde, did a load of washing and read.  On Friday, we motored on to Merelbeke, just inside the Ringvaart Canal, which bypasses Ghent.  We took a vacant mooring, pleased at our economy.  But at 8pm a car called asking for €11.  No water or Electricity!

 

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This morning we continued on the same river/canal into the centre of Ghent and are moored 200 metres from the Centrum Poet, and 300metres from the heart of town, with nice neighbours.  We watched the Springboks beat the AB’s by a point in an Irish Bar!  Then we did a preliminary exploration of the old town.  We agreed that it has been worth the boring bits getting here.  Buildings other than churches from the 12th Century beautifully preserved.  All with the water setting, of which we are a part.

 

 

Thursday, 07 September 2006

 

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What a beautiful City!  Buildings from 11th C still used as restaurants, nestled around the rivers/canals.  Huge churches, all fitting together.  Our free mooring on a canal was great and convenient for exploring and shopping and the new battery lasted well.  We ran the engine for an hour for showers, laundry and recharging.  Sue and Paul arrived as planned on Monday and we explored together. 

  

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On Wednesday we moved on to Brugges where we have moored in the port (€9 + water and electricity about a Euro each extra a day).  If possible it is even more impressive and we are staying till Saturday morning, when S&P will return via Lille, Calais and Dover to England, while we go on to Ypres, Dunkirke, Lille and our winter mooring.  Our concern about large shipping has proved completely unfounded – sure some big boats, but few and far between.  No locks and slow bridges!

 

The weather has improved considerably, mostly sunny and warm to 32 degrees.

 

Sunday, 10 September 2006

 

All of the above happened, and in addition we were lucky to see the Trouping of the Colour by the Grenadier Guards and a Belgian Regt.  A great show in the beautiful town square.  We explored the waterways and windmills on foot, and continued to appreciate the 30 deg warmth. 

 

We left as planned on Saturday, the others to a 7am train, and we at 8.30, followed a large boat through the main canal thoroughfare to Oustende, when we branched off on to the Newport canal.  But we were held up for 2-3 hours by a body being found in a section of the canal ahead, and so we are a few hours behind.  Also, Ian tried to find why the speed control lever was stiff, and fount the gear-box/clutch was dry, so he took 2 hours on his bike in Newport on a Sunday to find more oil.

 

So we are an hour short of Ypres, moored in a lovely quiet spot below the second last lock.  At 6.30 it is still 28 Deg!

 

Monday, 11 September 2006

 

It took 3 hours to reach this port (free with water and electricity), and Ian quickly explored the city.  After lunch we went to the Museum which highlighted the war in the region.  The town was flattened, but has been fully rebuilt.  1 million dead!  Including a great uncle of mine.  But the town was never won by the Germans.

 

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We stocked up for 2 days and tonight we go to the Menin Gate to hear The Last Post.

 

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Tuesday, 12 September 2006

 

 Very moving, but NZ is the only British country not to have names on this memorial.  The NZ memorial is at Tyne Cott, near Paschendale, so none were listed in the Menin Gate, which is on another Vauban defensive structure. And possibly was a major reason for the successful defence of Ypres.

 

Today we left at 8.30am; the first lock was waiting; all the locks in Newport were ready and we moored tonight at a free port in Veurne, only 7km short of the French border and 14 more to Dunkirke.

 

Friday, 15 September 2006

 

We continued into France on Wednesday, but were delayed for 2 ½ hours by a bridge not being opened as they didn’t respond to a VHF call, and our telephone was still connected to the Belgian provider.  Eventually we passed and entered the Dunkirke to Aa canal, where we spent the night above the first lock.

 

Very quiet, and we were away about 9.30am on Thursday.  There were very few boats, and the lock was an easy 0.94 metres!  We stayed the night in the port at Arques (home of Crystal d’Arques) (€11/night, no water or electricity).

 

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This morning we left at 8.30 and went up first 3.94m then a 13.3m lock (the last adjacent to the old Fontinettes double bucket lock).  But we had to wait 2 hours for the lock-keeper at lunch time, when we turned into the Lys Canal.  We are moored tonight at St Venant, in a Halte Nautic (free with W&E) opposite a port (7€).

 

Ian rode Daisy to Bethune to find a contact to press for an English translation of the Canal Driving Permit Test Questions.  He arrived disappointed he hadn’t met some who he would have liked, but hopeful that those he had met might support the case.  The discussion will continue by email.

 

Tuesday, 19 September 2006

 

Since Friday we have moved along.  St Venant was a lovely stop, also being free with water and electricity.  The next stop at Armentières was disappointing.  We didn’t moor in the quite expensive port (which an English couple had recommended for wintering, but on a good canal-side mooring opposite an ED Supermarket.  In spite of the song we didn’t find the town interesting.  The fact that Ian had a 24 hour fever may have influenced that impression.

 

On Sunday we continued up the Lys into the Deule, and stopped at Lille, around the Vauban Citadel near a closed lock.  The annual Fair was on for a month which created excitement; we enjoyed a brief walk around centre-ville, and had drinks with a Belgian couple who had toured NZ several times.  So enjoyable that we stayed an extra night!  In the afternoon we walked around the citadel grounds including an excellent zoo, and finishes with more socialising with our Belgian friends.  Ian checked out the rail and bus connections for Euroline Coach service.

 

They left to go north and we to go south to Douai, the start of the Scarpe to the Belgian border.  It was a calm trip and we arrived about 2.30 and rang to book a lock-keeper for tomorrow to be told the canal/river was closed!  So we will not have the gentle pleasure of a small wooded canalised river, but 2 ½ days on larger, boring canals to get back to Belgium!  The weather looks OK for 2 days, then rain for the third.  We are not happy chappies!

 

Wednesday, 20 September 2006

 

It was a beautiful sunny day, and we left Douai at 9.00.  We shared the first 3 locks up about 6 metres each with a small peniche, and continued our way, doing a load of washing as we went – the battery/inverter worked without complaint.  About 6 pm we called a halt at the last French lock, near Condé, with 63 km and 8 large locks behind us and only 3 hours to Belgium.   This is the same mooring we watched an early Bastille Day display in 2003.  So we are somewhat happier.

Thursday, 21 September 2006

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Got excited for a minute as I thought I had a wireless connection, but no!  What a beautiful day.  Our overnight mooring was lovely in the morning, and the sun shone till twilight.  Three potential problems all turned OK.  A rope jammed in the cleat as we went down in the only lock of the day, but a strong jerk freed it.  Ian, concerned at how many extra km we had been forced into checked the diesel level – practically zero, so we stopped for lunch at the very port we had intended to reach by the Scarpe, but had to wait 3 hours for the supermarket to open at 3pm for 13 litres of diesel to get us to Antoine.  Then as we waited an empty peniche sped past making a huge wake over the shallow mooring and was strong enough to break an old mooring rope (better that, than a cleat pulled out!).  We turned the boat to face later waves and had no further problems.

 

So here we are in the tiny Antoine mooring, loaded with 390 litres of low tax red diesel, ready for next season.  We always leave the tank full over winter to reduce condensation in the tank.

 

  Monday, 25 September 2006

 

On Friday we used the local laundrette to wash bedding etc, which we hung on the boat in brilliant sunshine, as we moved up here to the mooring at Tournai Yacht Club, where we are staying until Thursday or Friday, when we will be lifted out of the water.  It’s a bleak spot, but it does have water and electricity.  We have started on packing and some end of season work, but on Saturday, while we were trying to turn the top hatch over to replace its wheels, it fell on Lorna’s finger and we needed to go to Tournai  hospital for 8 stitches and a anti-tetanus jab. The €20 credit on our cell-phone has been very useful for calling taxis.

 

Today it is drizzling so we can’t do more washing, so are recording and packing.

 

Sunday, 01 October 2006

 

The summer on the canals is over.  We are now in London with family for a couple of weeks.

 

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The boat was lifted out of the water on Friday afternoon by a simple trolley lift.   The hull below the water (no antifouling) had a small number of tiny crustaceans which will be hosed off.  Then Majorie will prepare and paint the hull over the winter,   We were happy without the antifouling, but if we are to sell the boat, many buyers won’t be.

 

As mentioned on Aug 14, we are planning another season on Erewhon, after which we will sell the boat.  Ian is going to prepare a special web-page and we will try and sell it ourselves to avoid brokerage of between 3 – 8%.

 

Lorna has had a couple of visits to the surgery to clean her wound, but will need to have the stitches removed here in London.  The weather continues mild.

 

Majorie gave us a ride to the Antoine station, and the train took us to Lille, where we caught a Eurobus to central London.  Its a nice way to travel; cheap, but often an hour or two late.  We were lucky to have a few cents left on the phone to text arrival updates!  The ferry crossing was lovely.

EREWHON FOR SALE end of Sept 2007.  Click here.

 

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