Every year on June 3rd, 1000 Russian Orthodox worshippers of all ages set off on the longest and oldest religious procession in Russia. For 600 years, believers have undertaken a 6-day, 170 kilometer trip through the Russian wilderness to accompany the icon of St. Nikolai from its home at the Kafedralny cathedral in Kirov to the village of Vyelikoryetskaya and back.
In 1383 in the village of Vyelikoryetskaya, 960 kilometers northeast of Moscow, a peasant discovered an icon of St. Nikolai in a tree, surrounded by candles. The icon quickly became known across Russia for its powers of healing. The villagers of Vyelikoryetskaya agreed to let the icon be moved to the regional center of Vyatka (now Kirov) on the condition that the it be brought back each year on June 3rd for one day to place where it was found.
This "krestny khod" has continued virtually uninterrupted for 600 years. During czarist times, the pilgrims accompanying the icon numbered in the tens of thousands. And the tradition was continued even under Soviet rule. When the Kafedralny cathedral in Kirov was destroyed in 1937, and the icon disappeared, a copy was made. The krestny khod was effictively banned in 1961 for a number of years by Nikita Kruschev. In 1988, with perestroika, the krestny khod became more open. In 1992 it was publicly sanctioned by the Russian Orthodox church.
Father Genadii has lead the procession for five years now. The story goes that after his first procession, he couldn't get up from his arm chair for a week. And, in fact, the expedition is a physical and mental challenge. The procession sets off each morning at at 2:00 am and continues walking until approximately 10:00 pm. Everyone carries their own food and bedding they consider necessary for the trip. Some fast. There are periodic breaks during the day for rest, food and drink. The age of participants this year ranged from a 6-month old baby to "babushkas" in their 80's. Many are sick or crippled.
Russian Orthodoxy believes in redemption through deprivation. The more hardship one endures, the greater the spiritual power and healing. As one participant, Vladimir, a young man of 25, with the traditional long beard explained, "Only through suffering can you have a positive effect. During the procession you should concentrate your physical and mental attention on the organ which needs healing. In this way, the icon of St. Nikolai can best help you."
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