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| Estas são DICAS BÁSICAS para a construção
dessa réplica. Ela não possui nenhuma luz. As partes
utilizadas podem ser encontradas em lojas de materiais de construção. |
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| 1- |
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12"x 1.5" tubo de PVC
liso, sem junta. |
1- |
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Brass knurled knob for blade
adjustment. |
| 1- |
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6" x 1.25" slip-joint
extension tube. |
1- |
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Set of DANCO "Mobile
Home" sink knobs. |
| 1- |
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6" x 1.5" slip-joint
extension tube. |
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Model #88170 (What
I used) |
| 1- |
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Section of black 1"
ribbed tubing, at least 12" in length. |
1- |
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Approp. sized button for activation
switch |
| 4- |
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Small finishing washers. |
t |
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Lots of 2 Part Epoxy - "Plastic
Welder" |
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works best or high Strength. |
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| STEP 2 |
| Take a 6" section of 1.25" tubing, (Slip joint type)
and cut the flange (larger end) off of it. Next glue some filler,
(foam or cardboard, etc.) where the blue dots are so that when
you slip the cut off flanged end into the end of the Emitter
Shroud it is basically centered. Then carefully glue the section
in the emitter shroud. The piece does not go in very far so
be sure to use adequate amounts of glue. this is a tough step,
and afterwards you will have to paint the visible glue silver.
There is not much so don't worry! |
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| STEP 3 |
| Her you wil take a section of 1" black ribbed tubing
and cut the appropriate length sections from it. You must then
slice it down the middle from one end to the other. This tubing
must then be streched out a bit. Lay it under a book for the
night if you want. Next slide it in the grip tube you cut earlier.
Use some cardboard if neccessary to keep the tubing streched
out so it reaches the edges of the pipe. Apply tons of glue
and let it fully dry. |
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| STEP 4 |
| Next take the Emitter Shroud piece you glued together
with the 1.25" neck piece. Grab some more ribbed tubing and
cut two sections the length of the vent spaces. Next you will
have to do some custom measuring to figure out how much trimming
on each piece you will have to do in order to get it to slide
inside and go all the way around. |
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| STEP 5 |
| Now take a 6"x1.5" connector tube (slip joint type)
and cut off the larger flanged end, just as you did for the
smaller 1.25" neck piece. This end will then slide over the
main handle section. Carefully cover the end of the handle with
some glue prior to sliding it into the larger flanged piece. |
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| STEP 6 |
| Next take the Emitter Shroud with the 1.25" neck piece
already glued in. Glue some more filler (cardboard or foam)
in the blue spots on the left so that when you assmble the Emitter
Shroud and the Handle Body it will sit in the center. |
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| STEP 7 |
| Now take the clear plastic faucet knob and paint it
black. Then carefully glue it on the end of the saber as per
the illustration. (An alternate method of attaching it - glue
a washer or PVC plug in the base of the handle then screw the
knob on with a screw. That's what I did.) |
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| STEP 8 |
| Almost done! Now glue finishing washers at the base
of the vent holes on the Emitter Shroud. The glue a red activation
button on top and a brass knurled knob below it on the right
hand side of the saber. Then glue a belt attachment knob on
the botom of the saber at grip end. |
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| STEP 9 |
| That's about it! As per the illustration on the right
your saber should look correctly. One additional thing you can
do is cut appropriate sized pieces of chromed tape on the pommel
in certain places. This will depend on the exact type of sink
knob you use as the one I bought has raised nubs similiar to
the end of the movie saber. |
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These are basic instructions on constructing an Obi-Wan Kenobi
Episode I Lightsaber. There are many things you can do in a custom fashion
while building it. I DO NOT HAVE ANY OTHER PLANS THAN THESE. This is the
process I utilized when constructing mine. I am also working on constructing
a removable inner tube one of which will contain a faux emmiter nozzle
and add weight to the saber and another that has affized to it a blue
transclucent acrylic tube which is commonly used to cover flurescent light
tubes. Look for those instructions to come shortly!
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