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�EAST COAST |
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Home |
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Perennials |
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Landscaping and Nursery |
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Shrubs |
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Trees |
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2558 Highway Route 20, Carlisle, New York |
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518 234-0917 |
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Tree Injections |
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(1500 ft. West of Corbin Hill/Lykers Road; one mile East of Crommie Rd./Carlisle Firehouse (blinking light)) |
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�For All Your Landscaping Needs |
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E-mail us for a printable version. |
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RECOMMENDATIONS FOR PLANTING YOUR TREE OR SHRUB |
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Dig your hole only as deep as the root ball of the plant (slightly less deep if you want the plant "mounded"; although level with the surrounding area is recommended.� Be sure the root flare (where the trunk widens at the base) is just above ground level.� Many nursery trees require removing soil/mulch from this area! |
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Dig a hole that is 2 - 3 times the width of the root ball (no less than 1 ft. around for trees, 6 in. around for shrubs). |
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Remove the sod for three feet or more in all directions from the center of the planting hole.� Turf grass is the biggest competitor for water and nutrients that your plant will have.� Removing sod in this way around a young, newly planted tree has proven to increase growth up to 3 times what it would otherwise be.� This ring also protects the plant from mowing, trimming and other lawn equipment. |
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Be sure the sides of your planting hole and the root ball are rough - if sheared from digging, these sides will prevent root penetration. |
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Pruning is recommended in only two cases: when there are damaged branches or when the root ball is too small for the tree.� Even then, pruning should be done sparingly. |
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Center your plant in the planting hole and position it with "its best face forward." That is, face the side with the best shape/look toward the area from which the plant will most be viewed - a driveway, front porch, patio, etc.� |
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Do not add soil amendments UNLESS your soil is very different from the root ball.� In these instances, you will need a "buffer zone" to assist root development.� Generally, you do not want to use any sand - over time this may develop a water barrier.� Mixing organic matter (e.g. peat moss) with some of the soil excavated from your planting hole is best.� In most cases, you should simply use the soil you dug from the whole to refill it. |
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After you have filled the planting hole halfway, tamp it lightly and soak it with water.� This will settle the soil.� If your plant is balled and burlapped, you will now want to cut the top of any wire basket on it (do not remove baskets, ropes and burlap before placing in your planting hole as the root ball may not be solid).� Fold back the wire around the top edge so that it will all be several inches below ground level.� Cut as much of the rope and burlap away as is visible.� BE SURE NOT TO HAVE ANY BURLAP LEFT EXPOSED ABOVE THE GROUND - this acts as a wick and will steal all the water from your plant!� Finish filling the hole and resoak. |
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Do not fertilize! If you feel you must, provide only bonemeal or other phosphorous product for root development. |
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Mulch 3-4" across the entire area where sod was removed. Mulching keeps weeds down, decomposes into nutrients, retains water, and prevents heaving.� DO NOT PLACE MULCH AGAINST THE TRUNK.� This will damage your plant (potentially killing it), and will increase the risk of insects and disease entering the plant. |
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Staking is generally unnecessary unless you are in an extremely high wind area, the root ball is weak and/or the plant is top heavy.� Staking actually weakens your plant and, in many cases, causes direct damage to trunk and/or limbs. |
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Watering: In the first few weeks your plant is in the ground, it is essential to provide water generously as the root tips that bring water into the plant are reestablishing themselves. This is most important for balled and burlapped plants - roots of container plants have not been damaged.� Water every two to three days when dry until established, more often in times of very high temperatures.� If the leaves on your tree are limp or your shrub is drooping, it is time to water again! |
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