Hend

My life in India, 2005-2006

 

2/12/2006

 

What wise man first said that time flies? Whoever he was, he was right, at least partly. Time also waits for no one. It heals all wounds. It’s just an amazing thing, this time. And somehow, it goes faster when you’re having fun. I always wondered how that was possible, that time could go faster at one point and slower at another. I think I get it now, though. When you’re having fun you don’t have the time or the desire to stop and think, wow, this is fun. But when you’re waiting in line at the post office and there are twenty people in front of you, then there’s really nothing to do except think, and perhaps pray for your boredom to be mercifully ended by such things as the chance to buy stamps, spontaneous public nudity, or a tornado.

 

What if you’re not really bored but you still have lots of opportunities to stop and think? Then time is especially slow, but not necessarily in a bad way. If not tainted with a few dash of homesickness, the past six months (almost) would have felt like a never ending lazy a summer afternoon. I don’t think I’ve ever done so much thinking, although I might have been close when I was a kid, when my awareness was at an all-time high. Back then I watched cartoons on the weekends and wondered what the Cocoa Puffs people meant by “collect ‘em all”. Did I have to? What if I didn’t like Cocoa Puffs? What if I only had enough money to collect half? Am I still expected to collect ‘em all? I mean, they told me to… what a dilemma. Of course, like everyone else I grew up to automatically zone out and stop thinking while watching breakfast cereal commercials, opening up junk mail, or listening to campaign speeches.

 

Not all the thinking I do is philosophical these days. These are the top thoughts I have these days, with the percentage of brain power I normally spend each day on each:

 

Holy cow, I live in India (42%)

Is this guy cheating me? (15%)

Uh! I almost got hit by a bus (12%)

Is that person speaking Hindi, Kannada, Telugu, Tamil, Malayalam… or English?(11%)

I wonder if I’ll get sick if I eat this… what the hell (11%)

I wish I had NBA TV right now (8%)

Assorted deep philosophical thoughts (1%)

 

Now, that 1% is huge, just because of the sheer volume of total thinking going on (which give you rough idea of how often the I live in India thing hits me during a normal day). For the first time in a long time, I have a tremendous amount of time to do all that reading and thinking I’ve wanted to do for years. Not having NBA TV, or just a TV for that matter, really helps.

 

I’m working in the development field, more specifically what’s called governance, which is new to me. This is my first development job, although when I was in college it took up a big portion of what I studied and wondered about. Last year, I was in a cozy cubicle in a 32 story building, analyzing housing rent data in New England. Now I am sitting in not-that-cozy half cubicle, in a 3 story building, analyzing corruption in the developing world. The job isn’t that different on the outside, but in a certain way everything has changed.

 

Like Groucho Marx, I wouldn’t want to belong to any group that would have me as a member. I don’t think I’ll ever stop cringing when I think that my industry, so to speak, is development, even though it clearly is, and even though it probably will be for at least a big chunk of my career. In a similar way, I hate to say yes to people who ask if I’m religious, just because I don’t want to be linked to the religious people I see on the news on TV, or the ones handing out pamphlets on the subway.

 

You see, I’m growing more skeptical about how much the entire development industry is really accomplishing. So much paper, electricity, and oxygen is wasted in bureaucracy, corruption, and ideological nonsense. I still write letters to a high school friend who’s out in Niger as a Peace Corps volunteer, and he understands this and articulates it much more clearly than I do. In the little village he was assigned to, the women had been taught to read and write several times by several different groups passing by, and yet they’ve forgotten each time. My dad has a similar story from his days as a newly minted doctor from the big city, serving in a remote village in Iran in the late early 70s. There the most basic lesson of sanitation – keep human waste away from where crops are grown – took an inordinate amount of time and energy to get across.

 

People in the developing world aren’t stupid. And there are a thousand development success stories that show that a lot of these little projects are making a big difference to big groups of people. But in the even bigger scheme of things, these projects are drops in a limitless ocean. It is like building grass huts on the beach when a tidal wave is coming. This tidal wave is different things to different people – economic growth, globalization, industrialization, the spread of technology – but fundamentally it is one phenomenon. At one point, sooner or later, it is going to level the remaining cultures and societies that it still hasn’t reached.

 

This is a reason for both despair and celebration. Some of the structures and institutions washed away will be sorely missed, including thousands of languages, customs, and foods that will be preserved only in libraries and journals. This is not news. But what’s easily overlooked is the fact that some of these leveled structures and institutions will not be so sorely missed, or at least we’ll be better off without them. These include not-so-subtle examples like sati¸ the all-but-extinct practice among some rural communities in India whereby a widow is burned to death when her husband dies. There are also more subtle examples, like racial preconditions or preferences for marriage partners, practiced to varying degrees around the globe, but becoming increasingly ridiculous in a rapidly shrinking world.

 

Some people don’t want this to happen, because they believe the value of the lost structures will be greater than the value of the new ones. That is a fair and reasonable argument. But the thing is, there is no choice. We can pump millions of dollars into a project to teach rural women how to weave baskets, allowing them to remain in their villages, culturally untouched, still generally poor but no longer fighting away starvation. And then a few years later a textile factory will open up in a nearby city, and all those women will drop their baskets and flock to that city, hoping to quintuple their earnings by working 12-hour days in a damp warehouse.

 

That is the tidal wave. It is ugly and messy, but it’s the only way to get from A to B. Rural literacy programs and microfinance schemes and basket weaving training are fine and commendable, but at some point, every remote village will have to join the rest of the world. You can’t weave baskets forever.

 

I’m reading a couple of books that take a very optimistic stance on all these issues. The first one is The World is Flat by Thomas Friedman, the famously pro-globalization New York Times columnist. The other is The End of Poverty by Jeffrey Sachs, probably the world’s best known development economist. I should have read these before coming to India, especially The World is Flat, which tells a dozen stories about Bangalore. To a large extent, both of these are about the spread of ideas across borders, the often forgotten component of globalization. This is one passage from Sachs’s book that struck me:

 

The beauty of ideas is that they can be used over and over again, without ever being depleted. Economists call ideas nonrival in the sense that one person’s use of an idea does not diminish the ability of others to use it as well. This is why we can envision a world in which everybody achieves prosperity. The essence of the first Industrial Revolution was not the coal; it was how to use the coal. Even more generally, it was about how to use a new form of energy. The lessons of coal eventually became the basis for many other energy systems as well, from hydropower, oil and gas, and nuclear power to new forms of renewable energy such as wind and solar power converted to electricity. These lessons are available to all of humanity, not just for the first few individuals who discovered them (41-42).

 

So to me, the question is not if, but rather when the rest of the world will catch up to the world’s developed countries. You couldn’t stop it if you tried, because ideas and culture travel unwittingly on the crest of the tidal wave. Those ideas range from how to use coal for energy to encouraging little girls to study math and science. Ideas also seem to splash back in the opposite direction, which is why there are more people practicing yoga in California than in India, and why half the guys in the NBA now have Chinese characters tattooed on their arms. But that is a topic for another day.

 

If this is in fact inevitable, is it better to help the process along, or to try and make it less painful as it takes place? Teaching basket weaving I see as the latter, while funding literacy and education I see as the former. That’s a horribly oversimplified way of looking at things, I realize, and it’s also naïve to think that those two choices are mutually exclusive. There’s also a third choice: helping to lay a moral foundation to deal with the massive changes that are happening and will continue to happen in all corners of the earth. That might not sound important, but consider that as millions of young Indians move into cushy software jobs, they are also gradually shedding a moral system that goes back thousands of years and replacing it with …. the mall. This is the beauty of the Ruhi study circles that Baha’is in every country are putting their blood, sweat, and tears into, a project that I think will be remembered very favorably by history. And in a way, what I’m doing now is making a similar contribution, in that our group focuses on raising people’s awareness of certain civic issues, like corruption.

 

Yes, I actually think about these things. I do not have the answer, but according to my calculations, at this rate I should have it sometime by the year 2083. It may seem like a waste of time, but then again, I spend 8% of my time and energy thinking about how great it would be to have NBA TV.

 

 

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