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Rescue Measures And Care For Precocial Chicks

 

(ducks, geese, quail, pheasants, plovers, killdeer, small shore birds, etc)

While not in the general scope of this web site, many visitors come here for information on these species. Having done a few searches on the web myself for such information, I was disappointed by the results. I thought it might be a good idea to offer what little I do know about these birds to help those in need. Please realize that more research will be necessary on your part if you are forced to care for a Precocial chick.

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1- Basic Habits

The first thing to be aware of is that Precocial chicks hatch with the ability to walk and feed themselves, and they will follow their mothers to the best feeding areas or safety zones. Once all the chicks have hatched, the nest is usually abandoned, and the whole family roams their environment.

Parents will often leave the young while they search out more distant areas for food. Many chicks are left separately (all alone) to decrease the risk of predation on the whole clutch. This is generally not true for "common" duck species, which often bring together several clutches, to which the mothers of those young take turns babysitting. But sometimes even ducklings are temporarily left alone, or become separated from the group by accident.

 

2- Re-acquainting A Lost Chick With its Parent

This brings us to the first point, which is that Precocial chicks should not be immediately rescued if spotted alone or without a parent. To determine whether a chick actually needs rescuing, it (they) must be observed from as great a distance as possible. Using binoculars is recommended. Constant surveillance is required for at least 2-3 hours. No breaks should be permitted while watching the chick, since the mother may return and leave again while you are not watching. If you can see or hear the mother, but she does not make any attempts to return to the chick, you may be standing too close for her comfort. Often, Precocial chicks do not chirp (peep) for their mothers, but wait silently for their mothers to call them. She will not do this unless she feels the coast is clear.

If after 2-3 hours or so the mother has truly not returned, the next stage would be for you to find her. Sometimes the whole family has wandered so far off that the original location of any lost chick is out of the mother's range. If a potential mother or family is located some distance from the original spot, there are 2 ways to try to reacquaint them.

The preferred method is to carefully 'coral' the mother toward the chick. Simply walk to a position that leaves the mother between you and the lost chick, and slowly walk in such a fashion that she retreats in a direction toward the chick. Once they are in visual contact, back off slowly. Observe to see whether the mother accepts the chick or not.

The second method would be to bring the chick closer to the mother. Some corralling will still be necessary, since the mother will not permit you to come too close.

A few points about such family re-introductions.

 

3- Rescuing A Truly Abandoned Chick

If after all this, you simply cannot find a parent for the chick, then a rescue may be attempted. Check the hyperlink at the bottom of this page for a professional rehabilitator in your area.

If you are forced to care for the bird for any amount of time, know that in some ways, they can be more difficult to raise than songbirds. Though they are mobile and self-feeding, other factors such as imprinting, heat, lighting and an appropriate diet are vital concerns.

 

4- Imprinting

This group is much more prone to imprinting than songbirds appear to be. Every attempt must be made to locate a same-species mother because of this (preferably its own mother of course). If you find that you have no choice but to raise a Precocial chick yourself, using a 'dummy' mother (a puppet fashioned to resemble an adult) should be tried. This 'dummy' mother should be used to feed or tend the chick, keeping yourself as much as possible out of view. Do not talk or make any vocalizations while using the puppet. The puppet should be used until the bird is released. It should also be left with the bird at night.

Chicks that are raised with siblings or others of their own kind are somewhat less likely to be imprinted. The use of the 'dummy' mother is still recommended however.

For a slightly more detailed explanation of imprinting, please check out the first few paragraphs of my "Imprinting" essay.

 

5- Diet, Lighting, And Water

I can make no specific recommendations about recipes for any of these species, but generally speaking whatever the adults eat, the chicks will eat. Food should be sprinkled on the floor of their area, but not in the area where they sleep. Food should be left no longer than half a day before being cleaned up and replaced.

 

Suggested Diets

Ducklings and goslings can be fed diced vegetables, and some aquatic vegetation such as duckweed and bladderworts. Foods that float in water may be added to their water bowl to stimulate 'dabbling'. Clean the water bowl 2-3 times a day. (see notes on water right below this table)
 
Quail and pheasant will eat seed, small insects, and grubs. 'Scratch' feed, obtainable from agricultural supply stores may be used, but since it is not designed for their nutritional requirements, it should be heavily supplemented with more natural foods.
 
Plovers, killdeer, and other small shore birds eat small insects, larvae, and crustaceans. This group can be the most difficult to find alternative foods for. Freeze dried insects and larvae can be used. (check the pet store) The crustacean component of the diet should also be supplied. Freshwater crustaceans such as crayfish may be used, but must be chopped, shell and all, to very tiny pieces, and then strained through a tiny sieve, to make sure the bird can't choke on them. A blender can be used. Fresh or freeze dried Daphnia or Gammarus can also be used. Snails are not recommended because of their high disease transmission risk. The crustacean component should fill about 1/3 of the regular diet.

N.B.- due to other interests of mine, I am able to offer tips to those willing to do some extra work finding the appropriate live foods for plovers and other shore birds. Send an emailfor details.)

 

An often unknown fact is that Precocial young need bright full-spectrum light to stimulate them to eat. This can easily be furnished by placing the birds in a very sunny room. In a pinch, bright artificial lighting can be used, but these generally lack the spectrum and brightness necessary for the chicks. In any case, make sure that the chicks are able to escape the brightness and heat when necessary by providing a shelter or unlit area they can wander to.

Unlike nestling songbirds, Precocial chicks do require access to drinking water. Every care must be taken that the birds cannot walk into the water, since this will wet their down and disturb its insulating properties. Even slight wetting can be fatal, and this goes for ducklings and goslings as well as the others. (ducklings and goslings are kept dry and buoyant by their mother's preening) Probably the best method for providing drinking water is to place a shallow bowl on a book high enough to prevent them from stepping up into the bowl. Make sure the bowl and book are stable, and cannot be spilled onto the chick or floor.

 

6- Housing

A double box system would seem the best setup in my mind. Use a cardboard box with dimensions of about 1' long x 1 1/2' wide x 1 1/2' high, placed on its side within another box at least double the size. A heating pad should be placed under the smaller box, set to its lowest setting. (Set to medium if chick seems cold) The floor of the smaller box should be covered first with a folded towel, and then with a thick layer of old t-shirts or paper towels. Make sure the chick cannot step directly onto the heating pad. This whole box should be covered with a thick towel, leaving only the smallest opening at one end so the chick can enter and exit easily.

The remaining flooring of the second bigger box should also be softened with flattened t-shirts or paper towels, but the chick should be able to walk on this surface. This area can be used for feeding if cleaned daily. If the bird is fed elsewhere, the smaller box must follow so that the bird always has access to it.

During the night it is a good idea to cover the whole 2-box setup with a light cloth, to prevent drafts. Leave at least an inch open on one of the long sides of the top to provide ventilation.

 

7- Heat

This is where it gets real complicated. Some Precocial species require contact heat to remain in good health. In nature, this is furnished by the mother directly when sitting on the brood, or by the other chicks when she is not around. Without this supplemental contact heat, many chicks are unable to keep themselves warm when resting, and eventually die from resultant complications.

I am sure that quail and pheasants require contact heat. I believe (but I'm not positive) that plovers, killdeer and other small shore birds also require contact heat. I have no clue whether or not ducklings and goslings need it.

Chicks raised with siblings or others of their own kind, are usually safe in this respect.

I do not know exact methods of providing contact heat safely, nor do I know the exact temperatures needed by these species. I only know that they do need it. I can offer one strategy though, but it is not a perfect one. Inside the small 'sleeping' box (as described in 'Housing' above) hang a feather duster so that it just reaches the bottom. This will create a heat sink that the bird can enter and exit when necessary. It must be feathers, not wool or whatever. This is another reason that the sleeping box should always be available to the chick.

 

8- Release

Once the Precocial chick has fully fledged, then standard release rules apply. (see the 'Release' page for details) The fledgling should be kept for at least 2-4 weeks before being released into a suitable habitat. Using or building a makeshift enclosure is recommended. A small kiddy pool may be introduced for ducks and geese. Drinking water should be freely available. Food should also be offered frequently. Some species roost in depressions in the ground, while a few prefer an elevated shelf. Some very few may even prefer some kind of box to sleep in.

Ducks, geese, and I think quail can be released into areas known to already contain others of their own kind. If lucky, they may join a local group. Other species tend to be more solitary, but the presence of others of their species assures you that the habitat can sustain them. You should return daily to verify that the bird is coping well, eating, etc. Return the bird to his pen only if he is having an unusually hard time adapting to the wild. Allow him to recuperate for a couple of days, and try again. If you are fortunate enough to live immediately beside the appropriate habitat (i.e. you live on a lakeside and are raising a duckling) feel free to allow the bird to return to his pen at night until you are sure that he is capable of surviving on his own.

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This is all the information I can offer at this time. I will update the page if I find out more. Any insights gladly welcomed.

 

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This website is not intended to replace the expert care that is only available by professional rehabilitators. The use of this website is only intended for those where the option of bringing an orphaned bird to a rehabilitator is not possible. By raising a wild bird yourself, you greatly diminish it's chances for survival. Please check this link for a rehabilitation center in your community: http://www.tc.umn.edu/~devo0028/contact.htm. If none are listed near you, call a local animal shelter, veterinarian, or wildlife office/agent for information on local rescue centers. Thank you.

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