These are the general repairs that I have made to my 87 Mazda RX-7 Turbo Two. I don't not recommend that you undertake any of these without the proper tools or knowledge of what you are doing.
If you use the information on this page, I will not be held resposable for any damage done to your vehical.
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I just finished replacing my rear rotors and pads. Lots of fun to be had. I'll go over it really quick. There are two bolts, 14mm one on the top and one on the bottom, you can get a socket and rachet on the top one, but you'll need a wrench for the lower one. Depending on how bad you let your pads wear down you might want to get a screw driver to give you a little bit of leverage. Lift, or pry the calipar off of the rotor. Inspect the rotors, normally you would get them turned so that they are smooth for the new pads, however if you don't want to are they seem to be in good order you can leave them on, I suggest getting them turned. Ok, so to get them turned you have to take them off. There are two large philips head screws, these are all that are holding the rotor on, other than the rim, when the tires on. I suggest using an impact driver to remove the screws, as they are very easy to damage. If you don't have one, they aren' t hard to find, most parts stores carry them.  After you get the screws the rotor might be stuck on because of heat, or rust.. ect. Use a hammer to loosen it up by tapping on alternating sides of the rotor, by the lug nuts, not on the brakeing surface!!!!!!!!!
Ok,  now comes the fun part, you have to compress the calipars piston,  on the rear brakes you have to twist them in,  so you want turn them so that the piston goes in, to the right, or clockwise. This is done with a spiffy little cube that you must also buy if you don't have one. I've tried this without it, and I'm telling you that you want to do it with the cube. It looks like a cube, heheh, with circular proturtions on the face, ask the counter person, they should know. You need to turn the piston in until it is flush with the calipar body.
To re-install all the goods, just work in reveres. I hope to have pics of the special tools that I used, so as to better help you visualized what they are.
I replaced my spark plugs the other day. I don't remeber the factory plugs NGK #. But that doesn't matter, because I used the NGK racing gold plugs. The #s are NGK B8EGV and B9EGV, I pay 6.35 a plug, price may vary.  You will need to buy, or modify a spark plug socket that is thin walled, as the heat risers around the spark plugs won't let you tighten these shorter style plugs with out one. I made one with my bench grinder. I have broken one previously, but I ground it too thin, and I knew about it. Contact me for further information on this.
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