If you get a chance to visit Potosi, it is possible to take a guided excursion inside the heart of the Cerro Rico. It is a grueling two hour expedition, and should not be taken lightly, given that you would be at well over 4000 meters, and over 6 million individuals have died in this mountain. The bulge in the minerīs cheek is where he is chewing coca to relieve the pain of the work.

I crossed from northern Argentina into Bolivia. The border town at which one arrives is called Villazon. It is a bleak place, but a good introduction to Bolivia. The Indians are friendly, and offer traditional maize drinks, whilst not paying too much attention to the traveler as can happen in other places.

Outside of La Paz is the spectacular remains of a volcano called the Devilīs Tooth. The walk up the tooth is interesting in itself as you pass through an aptly named valley of the moon, before making your assault on the rock. From the top one gains a superb view of La Paz, the surrounding mountains (up to 6000m) and the Altiplano.

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