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ADVICE
TO COACHES
In selecting men to form a team, it should be borne in mind that Tug-of-War
is an exceedingly strenuous exercise and training for it can be very
monotonous. The men selected must, therefore, be definitely keen, hard
working and cheerful characters. Any man of surly disposition or given to
frequent grousing is much better left out of the team as he will have a very
bad effect on the others.
The men best suited to Tug-of War should have, or be able to develop, broad
shoulders, thick thighs and legs, and well developed arms, ideally they
should be nearly all the same size. Above all, they must have plenty of grit
and be prepared to put up with any amount of hard work.
If difficulty is experienced in selecting the heavyweight team, it should be
remembered that keenness, strength and stamina are more important than actual
weight, and it is better to have eight really good men a little under weight
rather than to put in a couple of substitute men to make up the weight.
Dress
During training, old boots may be worn provided they are comfortable and the
soles are reasonably good. The general condition of the boot does not matter.
For competitions work, however, really sound boots should be worn. They
should be "broken in" beforehand.
Boots must not be "faked" in anyway, i.e. the sole, heel and side
of heel must be perfectly flush.
Men should be encouraged to change into vests and shorts before doing any
rope work. After training, every man should have a good rub down. Always
remember that whilst doing training it is reasonable that the men's
appearance is of minor importance, providing it is comfortable and essential
to his exercise, but it is of major importance at all times during
competitions. The whole team must turn out clean and smart. This factor is
not only for the best interests of the sport, but also for the morale of the
team.
The Rope
The size of a tug-of-war rope is 35 yards (minimum) in length and four to
five inches in circumference. The length is immaterial as far as training is
concerned, but it is advisable to have a rope of the correct thickness. The
rope should be kept as clean as possible and all grit removed from it. Avoid
storing the rope near paraffin or acid of any kind. Hang the rope in a
reasonably well aired cool place when not in use, never leave it on any floor
which may become damp.
No knots or loops may he made in the rope, nor may it be locked across any
part of the body of any member of the team. Crossing the rope over itself
constitutes a loop. Any act, other than the ordinary grip, which prevents the
free movement of the rope, is a lock. The end or Anchor man may grip the rope
under the arm and pass it over one shoulder, the remaining slack therefrom
must be free.
Hoists and Pulleys
A derrick or gyn is useful during training. The "weight" should be
a box or tray filled with scrap iron, so that weight can easily be varied.
Wire should be used to connect the "weight" to the tug-of-war rope.
The wire should run around the pulley at the top of the derrick, and then
round a pulley at the base so that the loop to which the rope is attached is
at a height of not more than 18 inches above the ground. A strong, well sited
tree frequently makes a satisfactory derrick.
Training
Training for tug-of-war cannot be hurried and great harm can be done
physically and morally if the team is overworked at the start. Stamina must
be built up gradually, and the training in general should start easily and
get increasingly difficult as time goes on. It takes regular, well planned
training to get a team up to a reasonable standard. Many of the best teams
have had to be built up over the years. Avoid pressing a new group of
trainees beyond their abilities.
It is suggested that the training should he divided into two periods:-
First Period:
Teams should train together, if possible, on at least two occasions each week
and never less than once a week. The first month should be devoted to
strengthening exercises, roadwork, and mastering the technique of the rope as
far as the individual is concerned. The body should be strengthened
generally, and particular attention should be paid to developing the
abdominal, dorsal and heavy muscles.
Rope climbing, without the use of the legs is a good exercise for the grip
and for the heaving muscles. Roadwork will develop legs as well as getting
men generally fit. It should consist of walks at 4mph carried out in sweater,
trousers and boots - never let men in training get cold. Make a point of
walking over heavy ground, e.g. deep sand, ploughed, etc., and over a certain
amount of rough ground, in order to strengthen the ankles.
Slow jogging with very occasional short sprints may be included in roadwork.
It is also a good policy to give each man a sheet of newspaper to crumble in
each hand as he walks along. It is surprising how this will exercise the
fingers and develop the grip. A small rubber ball in each hand is also very
good for this valuable exercise.
During this first period men should be taught the technique of the correct
positions on the rope, and tested three or four at a time on the derrick.
(see "Technique").
Throughout the whole of training it is important to weigh men once a week (in
the same kit) and keep a chart of their weights. Weight is likely to drop in
the first ten days, and may rise slightly afterwards or remain constant. Any
sudden drop in weight is a sure indication of "staleness", the bane
of every trainer. "Staleness", is best avoided by making the
training as varied and enjoyable as possible. Active games of a light-hearted
nature should be freely interspersed with more serious work, and training
should never be carried out as a fatigue.
Second Period
After the first month it should be possible to arrange the likely team in the
order in which they are going to pull on the rope, and from now on the rope
work should predominate and should be carried out as a team. Use should still
be made of the derrick, but from now on more and more work should be done against
live opposition. If necessary, divide your manpower into small teams and run
a competition with three or four men in each team.
The position of the team on the rope is usually the shortest man in front,
and the tallest and heaviest man as anchor. One can develop the best type of
balanced team if all pulling members operate from the same side of the rope;
the right side usually considered the best.
From now on the Coach should aim at perfecting the technique of his team. The
following section on Technique aims at giving Coaches an idea of the
recommended positions to be adopted by a team at various phases of a pull.
TECHNIQUE
'Take up the Rope" (rope on right side)
Pick up the rope and stand upright, well balanced on both feet, rope well
held under the right armpit with the right arm bent and the right hand under
the rope. The left arm should be extended with the left hand gripping the
rope from the top. The rope should be in a straight line and fairly taut from
front to rear, both hands as close together as possible, and the team should
not stiffen themselves in any way. A rigid stance uses up energy that will be
required later.
"Take the Strain"
This is the normal pulling position on the rope. Gripping the rope firmly
with both hands close together, allow the body to fall back to an angle of
about 45 degrees. The correct position here is of the utmost importance, so
it will be dealt with in detail.
a) The Feet
The sides of both must be well cut into the ground. It is impossible to push
with both feet flat on the ground - a common fault with novices. The feet
should not be directly one behind the other, but should be one on each side
of the rope and about twelve inches apart. This gives lateral control and
prevents swaying about. The feet should be separated about twelve inches from
front to rear.
b) The Legs
The leading leg must be perfectly straight. This leg acts as a prop, and the
more the opposing team heaves, the more they should pull this leg into the
ground, thus increasing its resistance. The rear leg is slightly bent and it
is from this leg that the driving power is mainly produced when the heave is
made.
c) The Body
The lower part of the body must be kept well up over the rope, and never
allowed to sag. The whole body should be in a straight line from the sole of
the leading foot on the top of the bead. If the body is allowed to sag in the
middle, not only is tremendous strain being placed on the back muscles, but
any drive from the legs will not be carried through the body and will merely
accentuate the sag.
The upper part of the body should be well over the rope, but in no way lying
on it. A man can exert his full force only through his centre of gravity, and
the idea is always to have the centre of gravity as close as possible to the
rope. The rope should be well up into the armpit. Care must be taken that the
leading shoulder is not allowed to fall way from the rope and thus prevent a
man pulling along the line of the rope.
d) The Hands and Arms
The hands should grip the rope close together with the palms of the hands
facing upwards so the leading shoulder can be more easily kept over the rope.
The leading arm must be perfectly straight, and the rear arm as straight as
possible, consistent with the position of the hand. If the arms are bent the
arm and shoulder muscles are cramped, and much energy is being unnecessarily
expended.
e) The Head
The head should be kept back in prolongation of the line of the body, and not
thrown forward. This gives extra weight on the rope and facilitates
breathing.
The Heave
Keeping the strain on the rope, lower the angle of the body to about 34
degrees with the ground and heave by a powerful stretch of the legs and body
towards the anchorman. Immediately take advantage of any ground gained by moving
the feet back, being careful to keep them close to the ground. There must be
no easing up either before or after the heave, as any relaxation will allow
the opponents to take the offensive.
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