After climbing in from the front door, I used a screw gun
and removed the interior panels. I then spread a 2 by 4 across the
roll bar down-riggers and used a hydraulic jack to push the sheetmetal
of the damaged tailgate out. Then I was able to work the glass up and down,
as well as open the gate normally. Other than being uglier than hell, the
original was now restored to full function. I'd all ready spent the dinero,
so I put the wrong-color-but-straight replacement in anyway.
| Replacement of the tailgate was no big deal. The folding side supports
fasten to the body with two large phillips drive screws. I used a hand-held
hammer-driven impact driver to loosen them and eventually to retighten
them at the end. Leave them loose but in place, then on the right and left
hinges, remove the three bolts that go into the tailgate. This frees
it from the hinges. Supporting the tailgate, remove the two folding supports
and slide it horizontally rearward away from the body. The spring torsion
bar loop in the center may feel like its hanging up but it will pull free.
When reassembling, that same loop goes under the tail end, then push the tailgate horizontally back to where is rests beneath the disconnected hinges. The torsion spring loop just slides over an arc of plastic and didn't give me any trouble with hanging up. There is a bit of resistance but nothing insurmountable. |
Once I installed the replacement and hooked up the
electrical connections, I found my work was not done. The motor gear seemed
to be missing some teeth, as the window moved 2-3 inches about every third
rev of the motor. But it did work. As it turned out the teeth weren't broken
off, but had a V-shaped notch worn or broken in the center contact area
of the tooth. I am told Toyota only sells the motor and gears as an assembly.
The motor I removed seemed functional, but that gear was surely on its
last leg (or teeth)
The wiring harness was in better shape than my original,
since my exterior switch worked without the supplemental wiring I did last
year. (see web page ) I am glad I just paralleled the existing wiring last
year, rather than cut and splice. My original chassis plug went right to
the new gate's plug and the window worked right off the bat.(such as it
is).
To my chagrin the new window has a defroster, which
I'd rather not have, and seven randomly placed stickers (some inside, some
out). social, policitical, recreational, whatever.....
NOTE:one sticker in your window makes a statement. If you have seven, you are definitely a loser.
How much more hassle would it br to swap this funky window for my clear one? The motor swap I hoped would be fairly straightforward!
The new gate still has a little binding as
it opens...but it closes up smoothly. The old one worked smoothly after
the damage and straightening, so I don't think my side panels are warped.
I just bolted in the replacement. I don't know if there any adjustment
or alignment I need to know about. Could it be in the latches on the side?
( I am still wondering.)
It was pretty well dark by the time I wrapped up....it
was definitely the end of a long day. I didn't scrutinize the whole
assembly as it opened and closed.
FIVE DAYS LATER
| Removal of the regulator is easy. First disconnect two cables to the right and left latches, then the two hard control linkages. On the one for the door handle, removing the two large phillips screws that secures the handle and taking the whole simple assembly out is easiest. Otherwise the rod doesn't have good clearance. Then unplug the two electrical connections at the latch and the one for the motor itself. For the motors connecting plug, squeeze the tip of the plastic mounting clip so it will move back into the cavity of the tailgate. This frees the connector so it just barely becomes accessible to be umplugged. From there, pull the four bolts which are very obvious, move the regulator into the tailgate cavity and then work it side to side to free the Lift rollers from the track at the bottom of the window. Putting it back in is a simple reverse of the above sequence. |
The trickiest part was getting the replacement glass
from my original 'gate into the old. Basically, I learned by dismantling
my original first...there I learned to pivot the window as far as the width
of window and its track would allow; then moving the glass and working
it so the track section on the bottom comes out at the edge of the tailgate's
slot, more or less between the plastic clips that hold the rubber in place.
I did end up breaking the outermost clip on the new 'gate getting the dud
glass out, but the rubber is in place and seems to seal up well.
| The electric motor is mounted to the regulator with three screws so removal is easy. I was forwarned but the one arm that is springloaded definitely took a swift swipe at me when the motor came loose. I was afraid that spring was going to make reassembly a three handed job, but once the two arms are realigned, with their mutual gear teeth engaged, a hole in one arm lines up with a hole in the regulator frame. stuffing a screwdriver through helped keep things in check. From there, screwing on the replacement motor is simple. |
I did lube the whole regulator as well as I could
without taking the arms off. The replacement 'gate and its interior parts
had more rust built up than my original but because of the one roller
being toast on my regulator I had to go with the rougher one. As the grease
worked its magic, the whole thing worked more smoothly each time I cycled
it up and down, so I guess it's ok. ( that window now is smoother, faster,
quieter than ever.)
I even changed out the black plastic Toyota medallion/emblem/nameplate/faceplate
(whatever it is) so now my original key works at the back end again.
I started to see about changing over only the lock assembly, then realized
it was just a two bolt operation to swap over the whole medallion. I scavenged
one bulb from the unit I took off to make both license lamps work.
Once everything was back functioning mechanically,
I reassembled the tailgate with my original interior pieces so at least
the inside is the right color...if only it were that easy to get
the exterior color right. There may be rattle cans in my future.
I wouldn't have done all this if not for the
past education from the guys at off road.com. They helped me out again,
as with many times in the past. This time in particular it was Nick
Fylstra in New Jersey who gave me the insights and encouragement
to get it done to my satisfaction.
Thanks a bunch, Nick.
Epilogue...my
account on the off-road bbs helped out another guy, who I eventually shipped
my discarded regulator to. If you readers fix something unusual on your
rig, go to the BBS and try to share what you learned.