Dave,

Here is the schematic for the relay, along with a brief explanation of where
the various leads go.  It's not necessarily a pretty diagram, but the relay
does work.

M1 and M2 are the motor leads, and the ground leads are obvious.  You'll
probably have to play with this a bit to figure out which relay lead goes to
which motor lead.  The good news is that at most, you'll only be wrong once.

The battery lead is also pretty obvious, except that you want to make sure
it goes to a lead that is always hot, otherwise the tailgate switch won't
work without the ignition switched on (or on acc).

The "safety" lead is the wire which grounds when the tailgate is unlocked.

The "up" lead is the wire which grounds when "up" switch is pushed.  You've
got two switches - one on the console and one on the tailgate.  I wired the
two of them together to make things easier (see below for caveat).

The "down" lead is the wire which grounds when the "down" switch is pushed.
Same story.

One interesting thing to note - by hooking together both "up" leads and both
"down" leads, the window can now be operated from the center console without
having the key in the ignition.  I like this, as having to put the key in
always irked me.  Unfortunately, it also means that things can be stolen
from the back just by breaking one of the front windows.  But I figure
anyone that knows anything about 4-Runners knows that they have to have the
key to use that switch.

Total for parts should be no more than $30.  That's for the three relays (2
SPST and 1 DPST), a diode, a small PC board to mount it all on, a small box
to put it all in, and a few short pieces of wire.

I've no problem with you posting this on your web site - actually, thanks
for doing so.  You can credit me for the original idea, but if you can make
the schematic prettier / easier to understand, take some credit yourself.

Let me know if you have any questions.  By the way, the wire colors and
relay package pinout numbers are for a '91 with the rear-window wiper.

Don Tong

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