home | what's new? | bad things | tips | calendar | askCat | resources | contact | guestbook

 

Caring for Fabrics

 

Disclaimer: If you have the manufacturer's instructions, use them. Wash at home at your own risk. If an item is delicate, hand wash in cold water. If you are worried about shrinkage, always hang dry, or lay flat. Don't put in the dryer. If you are following these guidelines for garments you have made yourself, save a scrap of the fabric to test the washing process on first.

Acetate:

Acetate is a dry clean only fabric. Most are ok to hand wash in gentle soap like Woolite. But definately, if you hand wash, hang dry. Do not put in a dryer.

Acrylic:

Acrylics can be machine washed or dry cleaned. They can also be put in the dryer. With any fabrics, if a delicate item, go ahead and handwash anyway.

Cotton:

Cotton can be washed any way you like. It is a very strong fabric. The higher the cotton content, the greater the risk of shrinkage, so take that into consideration with higher temperatures. Bleach is fine on whites, but make sure if you are washing colors, you use color safe bleach. Cotton wrinkles easily, so remove from the dryer immediately. Starching allowable.

Down Insulated Products:

Avoid frequent washings. Hang to store. Never dry clean. Use a gentle cycle and cold water when washing. Tumble dry on a low temperature. Never use an iron.

Dry Cleaning:

A process using solvents and no water (or very little), and heat. Remove bags immediately after cleanings and let garments air out.

Fleece:

Fleece is machine washable and ok for the dryer. It may shrink if dryed in high temperatures too often. Fleece has a lot of lint, so make sure you clean your traps.

Linen:

Linen is both dry clean only and washable at home. It all depends on the item. Most become softer the more they are cleaned. Linen is another fabric which wrinkles easily.

Lyocell:

This fabric also goes both ways. When washed at home, it should be dryed in a low temperature.

Microfibers:

Acrylic, polyester, and nylon microfibers are all machine washable.

Nylon:

Most nylons can be machine washed. Use a low temperature in the dryer. Nylon tends to carry static.

Olefin:

See: Polyolefin

Polar Fleece:

Should be cleaned after every use. Machine wash inside out. Do not dry clean or use bleach. Hang dry or tumble at low temperatures. Do not use fabric softeners.

Polyester:

Polyester is machine washable and hard to wrinkle. That's why it was the miracle fabric of the 70's. It should be dryed at a low temperature. Starching is allowable.

Polyolefin (aka Olefin):

Can be washed or dry cleaned. Use luke warm water to prewash stains out. Hang dry items, or tumble without heat. Do not iron.

Rayon:

This is a dry clean fabric, but most items can be hand washed and hung to dry. Do not wring. Lay stretchable items flat to dry.

Silk:

Prewashed silk is washable, otherwise dry clean. Handwashing is usually alright. Silk doesn't shrink easily unless it is losely woven, and retains its shape. Never use bleach. Do not ring. Shampoo works well in cleaning silk, as well as using hair conditioner in the rinse.

Spandex:

Totally washable, hanging to dry is preferred.

Terrycloth:

Totally machine washable and dryable.

Triacetate:

Triacetates can be machine washed unless pleated. Those items should be hand washed, or dry cleaned. Not vulnerable to high temperatures.

Velvet:

Velvet is dry clean only. It shrinks. Sometimes you can hand wash, but definately drip dry.

Velveteen:

This can go in the washer, but should be hung to avoid shrinkage. It can go in the dryer under low temperatures.

Wool:

Air out between wearings. Wool tends to release wrinkles. Refresh wool by running hot water in the shower, and hanging near the steam. When wet, hang dry at room temperature. Wool attracts moths. Dry clean once in a while.

U.S. Federal Trade Commission's Care Labeling Rule, as amended in 1983, requires manufacturers and importers to attach care labels giving full instructions for at least one satisfactory method of care necessary for ordinary use of a garment. The rule also requires that the manufacturer or importer possess, prior to sale, a reasonable basis for care instructions.

A burn test can be used to identify unknown fabrics. This should be done with great caution. Keep water nearby and use a non-plastic tub. This test will identify whether the fabric is a natural fiber, man made fiber, or a blend of natural and man made fibers. All fibers burn, so be very careful!! Remove a small piece of the fabric and use tweezers to hold it. Burn over a metal dish with baking soda in the bowl. Some fabrics will melt and this will cause serious burns so use caution and keep away from your skin. Cotton burns with a steady flame and smells like burning leaves. Linen is similar, but takes longer to ignite. Both are easily blown out. Silk smells like burning hair and is hard to extinguish. Wool takes longer than silk to ignite, but also smells like burning hair and is difficult to keep burning. Acetate flickers and smells like wood. Acrylic burns rapidly and smells bad because it is made up of chemicals. Nylon melts, but burns rapidly and smells like burnt plastic. Polyester burns and melts at the same time with a black smoke and sweet smell. Rayon burns rapidly but only leaves a bit of ash. It will also smell like burning leaves. It's hard to guess with a blend because the test should take on both qualities of burn at the same time.

Woolite is my favorite for handwashing. Follow this link and you can buy handy travel size packets! Magellan's Travel US:: Woolite Packets (10) (Cleaners & Stain Removers)


Click to subscribe to the Cat Smith DIYing Newsletter!!


home | what's new? | bad things | tips | calendar | askCat | resources | contact | guestbook


Cat Smith DIYing and its contents are ©2002
Contact the Web Mistress regarding any questions, comments or problems:
DIYgothicCatGrrl

 

Hosted by www.Geocities.ws

1