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-------- 

DARK BOX 

--------



By: Cablecast 0perator





------------ 

Introduction 

------------



The Dark Box is the newest device  to  enter  the  "colored  box"

market and is guaranteed to rerevoloutionize the art of  telecom-

munications fraud. The device's inventor, Cablecast 0perator, be-

came quite bored with the old forms of phreaking, having to worry

about codes  dying, or being traced. The unit you  are  about  to

build was spawned by  the need  for a more versitle, safe and in-

teresting way to  phreak.  You don't  need any special  tones  or

attack  dialers,  just  your  good  old every-day DTMF pushbutton

phone.



The  box's  basic design allows you to call anywhere   on   earth

(or  elsewhere   for all we care) without fear of being billed or

traced. But it's uses do not stop there! When hooked up properly,

it  can   be  used  to emulate multi-line bridges, loop lines and

direct in-dials.



It's  really  quite  simple. The device  is  plugged   into   two

phone  lines,  other  than your own, or one end into a phone line

and  the other  into another box. When there is an incoming call,

the  device senses this and picks up the phone. Your call is then

transferred to the other line or onto the loop. When you hang up,

the  device  senses  this, too, and it hangs up also, waiting for

the next caller.



To  illustrate this, whip out your good  old  analog   multimeter

and hook  it  up  to your phone line. See that nice,  juicy  vol-

tage  on there? Now call it on your other line. The voltage  will

jump  and the polarity  will  go all to hell. This version of the

Dark  Box  uses an alternating current detector to  tell  if  the

phone  is   ringing because sensing voltage is unreliable and not

entirely universal. Now pick  up your second line. There is a mo-

mentary  blackout  on  it  and then the voltage becomes constant.

Now hang up the phone you  called in  on. There will  be  another

blackout on your other line  ans  then the  voltage will pop back

up again. On the box, hangup is  detected  by  the  line  current

passing  through an optoisolator that is  holding the relay open.

When it is cut off for the split second the blackout occurs,  the

relay is cut off and the phone hangs up.



NOTE: With the rapid expansion of digital ESS's, the little phone

company  quirks  that  are  essential  for the device's operation

might not be available in your area. Check your line with the me-

ter as directed to be sure!







------------------- 

Trip To Radio Snack 

-------------------



On your next trip out to your friendly neighborhood Radio  Shack,

get yourself these:



1:1 Audio Isolation Transformer

555 IC Timer

Optoisolator (Transistor Output)

(2) NPN Transistors (2N3904 or 6 Will Do Nicely)

(2) 100k 1/4w Resistors

(2) Normal Diodes

1k 1/4w Resistor

10mF Electrolytic Capacitor

Disc Capacitor (.01mF)

DPST Relay

9v Battery or Likewise AC Adapter and Timer





It'll  run you about five or six bucks, unless of course you  get

a  five  finger  discount...It can be mounted on a small IC perf-

board, or whatever you like depending on how small you want it.



If you can't display the schematic that  goes  along  with  this,

we'll do it like connect the dots, it'll be fun!!



 

                                         +     O     P     Q

    _________         ________        ___|_____|_____|_____|___

A -|o        |- H I -|o       |- N   |   C                     |

B -|   555   |- G J -| OptoIs |- M   |   O     DPDT/DPST       |

C -| ICTimer |- F K -|________|- L   |   I       Relay         |

D -|_________|- E                    |___L_____________________|

                                         |     |     |     |

                                         -     R     S     T





This is the wiring diagram for X1, the 1:1 Audio Transformer:





     RED --(white)--------O||O--------------(red)-- YEL

                          O||O

     GRN --(black)--------O||O-----------(yellow)-- BLK





They  don't have to be paired exactly like  that,  just  remember

that white goes with black, and red goes with yellow.



Text  coding  of  the schematic is very simple.   If   you   have

ever  assembled  one  of those 1,000,000,000,000-in-1 electronics

kits  from Shack,  you can do this... I will guide  you  with  TO

and THRU.  There is a difference:



   A ----*---- B         A ----- R1 ----- B

         |

         R1



   "A TO R1 TO B"          "A THRU R1 TO B"

  Parallel Circuit          Series Circuit







--------------------------------

Abbreviations for the components

--------------------------------



RED, GRN, YEL, BLK  =  Phone line red and green respectively

Dx(Anode/Cathode)           =  The Diodes Where x={1,2}

Qx(Emitter/Base/Collector)  =  Transistors   x={1,2}

C1(+/-)  =  Electrolytic Capacitor  (observe polarity!)

C2       =  Disc Capacitor

R1       =  1k Resistor

Rx       =  100k Resistor  x={2,3}





Ya  dig it, mon? If this is too complex for you, try and view the

schematic  through  Generic  Software's CADD, or try to draw your

own out from the directions below. Sometimes it helps to do  this

in visual terms!



Ok, let's go to it...



<-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=->

 1: GRN thru R3 to Q1(Emitter) to GND

 2: RED thru D1(Anaode) to Q1(Base)

 3: Q1(Collector) to B

 4: +V thru R1 to B

 5: +V to M to D to H to Q2(Collector)

 6: H thru R2 to G to F thru C1(+) to GND

 7: E thru C2 to A to GND

 8: C thru D2(Anode) to Q2(Base) to L

 9: Q2(Emitter) thru COIL to GND

10: RED to I

11: J thru X1 to T

12: GRN to R

13: BLK thru X1 to Q

14: YEL to O

<-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=->





There.  That wasn't too hard now, was it? Now let's  test  it.  A

word to the wise: Do not substitute batteries or other power sup-

plies  in place  of the telephone line. If you do, then you  risk

blowing  the transformer and the optoisolator.







------- 

Testing

-------



Now that you have it built, double check and make sure everything

is OK before you apply  power to it.  If  everything  you have is

right, there  might be some wierd, uncaught error in the file, or

you have bad parts. Contact us or try again ( a voltmeter & logic 

probe can come in handy here...)



Connect  the battery, but not the  phone  line  yet.  Your  relay

should  not   throw. If it does, check the 555 and the transistor

triggering it.



If that's ok, short out the emitter and collector  on  Q1  momen-

tarily.  The  relay  should  throw for about two or three seconds

then shut off. If not, check that trigger circuit again.



Now plug in RED and GRN. If your relay trips, you might have  the

RED and GRN reversed, or Q1 is not wired properly.



If  you're ok, call it on your other line. It should  ring   once

and  then   pick up. If it's busy, perhaps D1 is not right. If it

doesn't answer the phone, check Q1 to make sure all contacts  are

right.





*Ok, FINAL TEST! *



Connect YEL and BLK and call the line that RED and  GRN  are  on. 

It should pick up and you should hear a  steady dial tone and  be  

able to dial DTMF on it, etc etc etc.  There are several problems   

that could arise here. 



    1) No dial tone means it's either not hooked up right, or the

       transformer is bad.  



    2) If you only get it for about three seconds before it hangs 

       up on you, you are not getting complete isolation from the  

       other line. Check the transformer. 



    3) If  the  dial  tone  you hear is "bobbled" then you have a 

       major voltage spillover,  isolate the second line from the 

       rest of the circuit.







If everything checks out, you have just built a  DARK  BOX!!  Now

let's have fun with it...









--------------------------- 

Applications And Operations  

---------------------------



You  already  have  the basic unit constructed. This is  sort  of

a  Pseudo-Extender  or Pseudo-Diverter. Place it on any two phone

lines (other  than your own) and be sure you know the number  for

the RED-GREEN pair.  Now  when you call the line that's hooked up

to RED and GREEN, you get the dial tone from  the  YEL/BLK  pair,

and  it's  just like you  were at that person's house using THEIR

phone! But you're  not, you  could  be in  Tahiti  if  you  want!

This is, basically, how  you avoid billing of calls.



If you want to use this box from long distance without having  to

pay for it yourself, you could wire a black box resistor onto the 

RED/GRN pair. It's not your phone line, what do you care?



For loop lines and cheese boxes, wire two Dark Boxes back to back

on any two phone lines.



For a multiple line bridge, you need as many boxes  as  you  want

dial- ins. Loop all the YEL's and BLK's together respectively and

plug the RED/GRN's  into  a hunt group (You know,  call  555-0000

and if it's  busy, you'll be  transferred  to 555-0001, etc etc),

this  way, hackers  can  drop  in   and  out  at   will.   Didn't

Cap'n  Crunch  do something like this?



If you want to make credit card calls instead of dialing  direct,

attach  the  box  to  two  payphones that are next to each other.

That way, you don't have to freeze your ass off to  avoid  having

your  phone number put on the guy's card bill. Make sure the pay-

phones will accept incoming calls!



Patch YEL/BLK into an audio amplifier and into the paging  system

at  someplace like K-Mart. Imagine the riot you can start by pag-

ing "INS! Stay where you are!" The xfrmer should push out a  line

level  audio, so interfacing to most sound applications should be

a snap.



A word about Caller ID. CI has been introduced scince the  inven-

tion  of  the box. The box can bypass CI to an extent, being that

if the box calls someone who caller ID's  you,  they'll  get  the

second  phone line of the box, and not you. However, if the indi-

aling line for the box has CI and you call directly into  it  and

someone  happens  to  be there to get it, you could be in serious

trouble. A soloution to this would be to use the box  on  a  pay-

phone that will accept incoming calls.  Scince noone gives a fuck

who calls a pay phone, chances are it won't CI'd. You could  also

place  the  box in an area that doesn't have CI, whereas in order

for CI to work, both the caller and the callee must be in service

areas.





Don't  be limited by only these suggestions! Be creative and  let

us know how you use it! Make a DID for your school's PABX, or get

your VICModem   to    autoanswer!   There   HUNDREDS   of    uses

for   this revoloutionary device waiting to be discovered!







-------------- 

One Final Word 

--------------



The  staff  of Dark Side  Research  would  like  to   thank   our

friend,  Rebecca,  who has encouraged us to press on in the Box's

development even during times when it seemed hopeless.



Enjoy your new toy....





+++EOF

