While
the traditional costume of a country is usually given a lot of
prominence today, the case with Ireland is a little different. It
wouldn't be wrong to say that not much is known about the exact
traditional clothing in Ireland. We can trace a little here and there,
but what we eventually find isn't conclusive. However, there are a few
links to the attire worn by the Irish, and some facts supporting the
same. For example, it is known that the variations in clothing
determined one's social ranking, specially in terms of color and
material. Wool was used extensively to make clothes, and so was animal
skin. The Celts have hardly left any record on the type of clothing
prevalent during the Greek and Roman eras. What the world knows today,
as traditional Irish clothing is an assimilation of the clothes worn by
the Irish from the 13th to late 18th century. In the sections below,
we'll look at a few of these clothing elements that were worn by the
Irish.
Irish Brat and Ionar
Ionar The
ionar was an Irish jacket, barely reaching the waist, with open
sleeves. While some open sleeves had buttons throughout them to tie the
léine, others had thongs attached at the end, which were used to tie
these open sleeves at the wrist. The ionar was also made from wool or
leather but was also embroidered. It was worn by mostly the men, unlike
the brat, which was worn by both men and women.
Irish Leine Léine The
léine (or leine) was a tunic, usually worn under the brat. It was
broader at the bottom and narrow towards the waist. Around the upper
arm, the léine was tighter and broadened after the elbows. The léine
usually extended till below the knees; women wore longer léines than
men. It is said that the length of one's léine, represented his/her
rank in society; shorter the length, lesser the social ranking.
Sometimes, the léine was worn just like a shirt (as pictured below).
Sometimes, the men wore just the léine, whereas, the women covered it
with an opened-sleeved dress. The léine was mostly made of linen, but
sometimes also from wool. It was tied at the waist by all men, and
either at the chest or the waist by the women, by a belt (crios) made
of woven wool, leather, or horsehair. The léine was pulled over the
belt to hide it.
Irish Trews
Trews The
trews/truis were trousers used by the Irish as clothing instead of the
longer léines. These fit tightly from the foot till the thigh, and then
were loose near the upper legs and the ankles. Sometimes, a different
material was used to stitch the upper, loose part of the trousers. In
warmer months, the trews were worn with shorter leines, while in
winters, they were worn together with the longer léines for warmth.
Though this pattern appears very strange, the trews were a very
important part of traditional Irish clothing.
These four
elements are considered Irish as per noted historian Henry Foster
McClintock, in his book Handbook on the Traditional Old Irish Dress. In
this book, he explains how these four are authentically Irish, whereas,
other clothing styles may or may not be. Also the Aran jumpers, the
wool tweed cap, and the Brogue shoe are all Irish, but not traditional.
As
we have seen, traditional Irish clothing can be understood from these
elements. However, unlike other nations, clothing in Ireland doesn't
have a complete history. All we can do is wait for historians to search
for more records that enable us to learn more about this great country.
Trews