I'll Try to keep them short sweet and simple. Hope this will Help
Remember this has only worked for me and in my County ONLY on Emissions If I can remember
problems from the past that can help I'll try to enter them in as I build the pages for the future. Send
me an email if you have better solutions or ideas on repair problems.
Leaks
One of the problems that most Chevys endure is the dreaded leaks that soak the carpet and or under matting Insulation that will eventually rust out the floor. Two that I found were the vents and windshield. It is best to check the floor after a good cleaning and or rain. The Vent solution calls for removing the inside vent and trim to get to a plastic deflector up inside the fender well. Water comes in threw the hinge recess outside under the hood and drains in between the inside and outside fender well. The deflector either breaks from age or bends down. Using a heat gun or hair dryer on high heat and bending it back up will save it for awhile. I found the best thing to do is buy some roofing coil at your local hardware and bend a new one then rivet it just above the vent opening between the fender wells. Use a good GE clear calk to seal the rivets and the vent when replacing it back.
On the Windshield I use clear calk inside and out under the rubber seal and I never have any more leaks. Sorry this couldn't be as long to discuss. .
So you have A.I.R., E.G.R. and other non computerized components to have to pass emission laws governed by your State or Local Laws? Well here are a few that work and still pass in my great state of North Carolina for my year model 1985. In our county they just have to look like their working but don't have to. As long as you adjust timing and Carb settings that emissions or exhaust isn't too strong.
A.I.R. can be resolved by unpluging the vacuum lines and placing a steel ball inside to stop the vacuum control on them. The air pump was dissassembled and valves taken out not to pump air but just run idle. On the lines to the exhaust manifolds, large steel balls or caulking used as a plug to keep the exhuast from sucking air through the diverters or you can weld them inside as long as they are working properly the caulk is cheaper and just as effecient. If they blow back you'll have to weld the insides. The steel balls of various sizes can be found in bearings from a local machine shop, motor shop or garage. Be carefull in breaking the bearings. I recommend cutting the outer race of the bearing in two places with a high speed cut off wheel. Please take extreme caution, a flying piece of steel can be dangerous to the eyes.
On the EGR and timing, Just reroute the vacuum lines so they are drawing vacuum on a timed delayed vacuum. One of the time delays is on the drivers side lower vacuum on a Rochester Quadrajet. I routed mine to a thermal vacuum switch delay off the thermostat housing so I don't draw any vacuum until the engine is completely warm. At any RPM my emissions are working properly and the Inspection passes just fine.
Carburetors which are of the Rochester Quadrajet type are bad about leaking fuel and flooding the engine or can cause hard start ups the next day. I've rebuilt mine and others for years. If you plan on trying the rebuild option, I recommend purchasing a good rebuild book and reading before doing. If not mentioned, there are casting plugs through out the carburetor that need to be epoxied so they won't leak any more. In the future I'll try to build a page that goes through the rebuilding process with lots of pictures.
Turn Signal switches can be a headache unless you have patience. Most turn signal switches I've come across in the pass have one problem with age. They become loose. I don't find many broken cancelation parts. The turn signal lever is just loose. On those that have the intermettent wiper switch though the collar has to be taken off. Haynes manual is very good on explaining how to remove the appropriate parts to get to the underneath to tighten a guide bolt that holds the lever. This guide bolt is where the wiper motor switch rod goes through and becomes loose. Don't buy parts until you find the problem is my moto. I use to buy then fix and found out I didn't need it in the first place.
