Doing the Seoul Bump

 

60% of the population of Korea lives in Seoul. That is a staggering statistic. Seoul is like a big black hole that sucks up all of the resources, material and cultural. All of the performers, theaters, live music houses, dance companies, art galleries, are in Seoul. The other cities will have perhaps one art gallery and that is it, while Seoul has perhaps 50. Comparing my city Taejon with Seoul is like comparing New York with Youngstown, Ohio. Sure you can have a nice life in Youngstown but your choices are certainly restricted. What really makes the difference between Taejon and Seoul is the subway. The subway is the lifeline of any city. It is the artery that pumps vitality into the asphalt and creates energy and excitement.

 I love the subway, and the Seoul subway is a good one. There are 10 lines and Seoul residents know the subway stations the way Americans know the ABC’s. The average ride is from 90 cents to a dollar. For that you can ride as far as you like, the longest ride lasting over an hour. You can pay with a paper ticket that you buy from a machine or from a man in a booth (always a man) or you can as most people do use a debit card that you just place on top of the turnstile. The cards and the readers are so sensitive that you don’t even have to take it out of your wallet or purse.

For me the subway is a place where I can meet people too. You can’t talk to people on the streets very naturally; they will think you are crazy. In that way Seoul is a little like New York or any big city. I remember walking down a crowded street in Seoul one time. Walking next to me was an attractive young woman. Since we were walking the same direction and about the same speed, I took a chance and said hello to her. Surprised, she looked over at me, then suddenly started running as fast as she could, high heels and all. I was amazed. What did she think I was going to do, rape her on the street while hundreds of other people walked by?

But in the subway it’s a different story. You stand and sit next to people. You have time to watch them and sometimes say hello to them. If you get a seat, you might look at them and smile or nod. If you are reading a book, they might glance over at you and take a peak at what it is a foreigner reads. If you are studying a Korean textbook, they might ask you in Korean if you are learning well. No matter how badly you mangle your answer, they are sure to say, “You speak Korean very well.”

          However there is a down side to the subway. That is the bumping that goes on. If you are unlucky enough to be walking down the stairs just after the train has arrived, you will be swarmed. Then you have to literally fight your way to safety. Something about Koreans, they don’t seem to mind bumping and getting bumped. There are a number of kinds of bumps. There is the near miss bump, where even though there is a lot of room on either side, someone coming the other way will walk so close to you that they brush your clothing. There is the come from behind, knock you in the back bump, a vicious one indeed as there is no defense for that. If you do it in an American football game that is a 15 yard penalty and first down, but in the Seoul subway, it’s all part of the experience. And then there is my personal favorite, the revenge bump or kick. This has to be done with an innocent face and a distracted air.

The worst bumpers are the old ladies, the ajummas. They seem to go out of their way to bump sometimes. Many of them are built like the proverbial brick shithouses. This comes from a lifetime of working hard. Something about Korean women, when the turn 40 they sprout massive shoulders and their arms grow to the size of linebackers’ arms. They will charge through a crowd leaving a trail of sore arms and shoulders 3 feet wide. If you are unlucky enough to be standing in a crowded subway, there is no escape and you are at their mercy. For some reason, many people are in the habit of walking through the crowded subway car to get to a car that will be closer to their exit. In order to do that, they walk through everyone in their way.  

          My first few weeks in Seoul I was getting bumped around pretty good and it didn’t take very long before I started getting angry and bumping back pretty good. Then one day I had a revelation. I was lucky enough to have a seat and I decided to watch how the Korean people handled the bumps. I was surprised to see that even though it was crowded and that  some ajummas were walking through the crowd, no bumping was going on. I watched closer and noticed that the people who were standing, were not really standing in one place, but they were slightly moving around, rocking back and forth, leaning this way and that, and they were avoiding getting bumped. One man was reading a book and holding onto a strap with the other hand. Somehow without looking up, he knew when someone was coming and he shifted his weight and the potential bumper passed harmlessly by. He did it even when someone approached from his backside. How he did that is beyond me. Are Seoul people endowed with a kind of radar?

         After that day everything changed. I realized that I was getting bumped because of my attitude. My attitude was, “This space I am in is my space. I was here first, don’t come into my space. If you do, you will bump me and I may bump you back.” The Seoul people seemed to have a different view of space altogether. They said with their actions. “I am in this space now but it belongs to everyone. This space I am just borrowing for awhile.”  I was firm and rock-like in my stance . They were dancing their way through space. The next time I was on the subway, I tried it and you know it really worked. I didn’t get bumped. In fact, I don’t get bumped much at all anymore. I am a moving target and they can’t hit me. I float like a butterfly, and now I can do it almost unconsciously. It’s fun, like being in a dream. I am good at it.  But every once in a while, an ajumma will blindside me and make me humble again; Rubbing my sore back I realize I still have a long way to go and lessons to learn. And sometimes, sometimes I still bump into someone. Just for the fun of it.

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