After many discussions with fellow aquarists, and reading many posts on NG's and discussion groups, I felt compelled to set the record straight on some of the issues and problems facing aquarists, and responding to both the good and bad advice I have seen.

QUICK FRESHWATER BATHS: An effective method, when done in a less stressful manner, for eradicating mainly ecto (visible) parasites, such as "black spot or black Ick" . Most commonly seen on Tangs. These are parasitic nematodes.

Its absolutely useless against 'white spot disease' (Cryptocaryon irritans) since the 'white spots' is a mucous secreted by the fish in response to the parasite invading the fish's tissues.

Also useful for Gill parasites, where the only symptom is an occasional scratching of the fish's gill cover. Another symptom is frequent or constant 'yawning'. Scratching and yawning are attempts by the fish to dislodge Gill parasites. Many of these parasites will multiply in your aquarium and infect other fish.

SUDDEN FW DIPS are highly stressful to many fish, especially to ones already diseased. The preferred method of treatment is to place the fish in a container, filled with water from the tank it came from, and while siphoning out the water, you simultaneously refill the container with FW, previously prepared, of the same temp and pH. A floating hydrometer is useful to determine hyposalinity levels. Depending upon the reaction of the fish (some fish go into shock very easily) the bath's duration can be from 5 to 15 minutes. Many aquarists routinely give newly acquired fish a FW dip. I find that it needlessly stresses an already stressed out fish. Why look for trouble when there isn't any!

QUARANTINE: Never has the old adage been more appropriate: "An Ounce of Prevention is Worth a Pound of Cure" In this case its worth even more!

QUARANTINE ALL NEWLY ACQUIRED FISH FOR A MINIMUM PERIOD OF THREE WEEKS!

There is simply no excuse for not having a Q tank. So much grief and despair is so easily avoided.

The Q tank should be set up as a mini FO tank. Its requirements are basically the same:

Biological Filtration
Water movement and gas exchange
Decorations (for comfort)
Substrate (optional)
Temperature control (Heater)
Lighting
Water from your main tank

CLEANERS

The issue of Cleaners, both fish and shrimp, has been widely discussed with some pretty 'eye brow raising' remarks, as to their value in disease and parasite control. Let it be known that no Cleaner eats parasitic protozoans, since for they most part, they are embedded in the fish's tissues, and its highly unlikely they can even be 'seen' by the cleaner. Cleaners are especially useful for control of ecto and gill parasites.

CLEANER WRASSE

The issues concerning the cleaner wrasse, has been widely discussed by Marine Biologists, as they perform an indispensable function in keeping down the population of ecto-parasites amongst wild fish. Observations have been made, that in areas of the coral reef where there has been an over-fishing of cleaners, fish populations are suffering greater losses due to parasitic infestations. They are a very important part of the ecological balance on the reef, and should be left in the ocean. Resist the temptation to get one, and as demand is reduced, fewer will be captured, and for the most part, be doomed to a very short life span. Studies have shown that, virtually less then 10% of these fish captured, actually make it into dealer's tanks!

CLEANER SHRIMPS

Cleaner shrimps can be an interesting addition to Reef aquarias, because they are not full time cleaners, and are also scavengers, and widely available. They are prone to predation, so care should be exercised in determining their tank mates. Many aquarists have reported the 'salutary' effects the presence of Cleaners have had in boosting their fish's ability to ward off disease and parasites. There is some truth in this aspect, however, do not expect these cleaners to do your job of careful selection and quarantine. As far as disease control is concerned, they are poor choices to make!

SCRATCHING

How many times have you seen fish scratch themselves? Well, scratching is not normal and is a sign that something is bothering the fish. DO NOT purchase a fish if it is scratching itself, unless you enjoy playing 'doctor' to your fish! If your LFS tells you: "Its perfectly normal for (choose your fish name here) to scratch, don't you believe it! �(Yeah sure, and Bears don't shit in the woods, either!) Now, if you insist on getting that fish, (He made me an offer I couldn't refuse!) better have that Q tank up and running, and be prepared to treat that fish for whatever it has!

WATER TESTING and TEST KITS

So much has been discussed about testing water, and finding the 'Ideal' of conditions, that has driven many (including myself) almost mad!

I am in total sympathy for those, who, through no fault of their own, lose livestock under the most perplexing and mysterious of conditions. This was essentially my earliest of experiences, in attempting to keep SW fish. I virtually lost a storefull of fish until I realized that, by and large, I was a victim (as so many others, I suspect) of circumstances beyond my control, plus the unscrupulous types of people who collect animals for this hobby. After all, they are paid in bulk and volume, and their animals are only in their care for just enough time to ship out, without regard to water conditions, etc. Much can be said about the LFS, who, in order to survive, in what is essentially a very competitive business, cannot possible devote the time and effort necessary to be knowledgable in guiding their customers, in a way which makes everyone happy. This does lead those, who either have a fierce determination to succeed, or who have spent a ton of money, to find their own way in achieving their goals, a beautiful aquarium with healthy thriving inhabitants.

First off, let me say, that because of the nature of the marketplace, its simply not that easy to get the kind of things we need, economically speaking, in making our aquariums work. Secondly, there is no consensus on the way to devise the test equipment, in terms of reliable and verifiable methodologies. Each manufacturer uses different chemical formulations for achieving the same and desired result. Whom are we to believe? Many of us do not wish to spend the kind of money that is really needed to equip a scientifically accurate laboratory, just to make some simple water tests.

I have and have had countless types and different test kits, and not too surprisingly, have as inconsistent results, as one can imagine. At this time and juncture, I have 9 test kits from 3 manufacturers, and no two agree with each other! I try to test each one against some standard, and they all check out. But, wait a minute! All the standards are a form of FRESH WATER! There is NO SUCH THING as a standard SALT WATER sample! Just check your hydrometer against a standard, and its FRESH WATER, isn't it?

Now I'm not saying that there aren't any standard samples, of whatever were supposed to be testing, but remember all testing is based on a standard that, we as aquarists have no access to, and have to, by and large accept, from the makers of the various test devices and kits. Whenever we suffer an unexpected loss, we run immediately to test our water! More often then not, the water tests tell us nothing. That's because, test kits made for the hobbyist, are, by and large, insensitive to what we are looking for, or wholly inaccurate! We have to look to the very basics of aquarium keeping, where many mistakes are made, because of inadequate preparation, bad advice on our set-ups, or our failures to do the reading and studying, so necessary in marine aquariology. In addition, the people we have trust in, the manufacturers of the test devices and equipment we use, and our LFS's do not really have the adequate knowledge, or scientific rigor, or just take liberties or shortcuts, where no-one is enforcing any standards. Much of the blame for our losses, simply has to be laid to the facts that, this is an imprecise artform where precision is wholly lacking, but so vitally needed. We can only hope we have laid the proper foundations of understanding and knowledge, did the research, and accept the consequences, of what can be and many times is, a frustrating and expensive lesson in futility.

GROUNDING PROBES

Recent correspondence with a fellow aquarist has prompted me to write about these. There are many strange and unexplained occurances in our aquariums, especially pertaining to fish behavior. One area recently explored involves so-called 'stray electrical currents' supposedly induced by submersed electrical devices in our aquariums. It has been theorized that our aquariums act as a large electrical capacitor, and because of the magnetic fields generated by motor driven devices, electrical currents are induced into the water. By 'grounding' the water, these electrical currents are then drawn out of the tank. It would seem to me that a continuous flow of electrical current should generate some heat, and be a source for warming up our water. As much as this 'theory' is appealing, and might explain some strange or weird behaviors of our fish, including causes for HLLE (Hole in the Head and Laterial Line disease) in some fish, no evidence has been shown to support such allegations. The real purpose of having a ground probe, is to protect the aquarium and its occupants from being 'cooked' by a large or substantial leakage from a FAULTY device, or the aquarist being electrocuted (fried) when he (or she) puts hands or arms in the water. What was told me, as to the purpose of the device, did not take into account that a ground probe needs to be hooked up to a GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interruptor) device, that cuts off electricity in the event a submersed device fails, or its casing is damaged, or your water heater breaks. The aquarist in question was never told of this need, essential to the true purpose of this 'safety' device. If your going to install a ground probe, or any form of grounding, you MUST also have a GFCI and all your devices that could be suspect, hooked up to it. Just having the probe in itself, really makes no sense, at least to me, because there is NO current flow until a path is provided for it to flow, AND if that flow poses a significant threat to the welfare of our animals or ourselves, then it should be hooked up in such a way that when excessive current does flow, electricity is shut off. At least one manufacturer did NOT explain this at all. I wonder if it could be held liable in case your house caught on fire? Electricity is quite dangerous around water, especially, and correct measures to insure one's safety MUST be specified, in no uncertain terms.

We can only hope that when we have reached a level of success, nothing will go wrong, and finally and VERY IMPORTANT, we will not be looking for trouble, when none exists! or as so often been said: IF IT AIN'T BROKE, DON'T FIX IT!