So, you want to learn how to climb. You want to prepare to do the classic, traditional free climbs. Many books have been written about technique, anchors, placing protection, etc.. But obviously you aren't going to learn to climb by only reading about it. You are going to have to get out there and do some climbs. But what climbs? Well, the ratings help some. But if you really want to learn you are going to have to choose the right climbs, the ones that will help you learn.
Inspired by an idea in Dan Duane's recent book El Capitan, I decided to put together a list of what I am calling "educational climbs." These are climbs on which I think one can learn technique, anchors, protection, etc. in practice. They are not necessarily great climbs, though there are some great climbs among them. And all of them I think are good climbs. These are the climbs I think one should do to get ready for the classics. So, for example, I did not include Royal Arches, though it is certainly both classic and educational. My thinking is that if you can put it together to do Corrugation Corner, you'll have the skills necessary to be confident on the Arches.
Also I chose not to include those climbs that probably are educational in some sense, but to my mind are really horror shows. Those are the climbs that kick climbers' butts without helping them to get better. Moby Dick might be an example. Nor did I include those horrors that are poorly protected, like the Dike Route. Though a classic, you don't learn from the Dike Route. You do the Dike Route after you have acquired the skills and confidence to risk it. In that sense, it is more like a final exam, one you don't want to fail.
The idea is if you lead these educational climbs, in good style, you will be well on your way to the next level in climbing. Mind you, you should probably be doing other climbs as well, just to solidify your skills. There are lots of other good climbs to use these skills on. And you will probably be following harder things when preparing to lead these. But don't make the mistake of thinking that following a climb teaches you as much as leading it, especially at the 5.6-5.9 level. Obviously on the long routes, you will probably swing leads, but you have to hold up your end. And, with the exception of your very first leads, also don't make the mistake of preparing to lead a climb by wiring it on top-rope. I think it is fine to follow something before you are ready to lead it, and to come back to lead it when you are ready. That is very different than rehearsing it. You have to be able to lead these in traditional good style. And that means facing the difficulties head on.
This article is the first in a two-part series. Below are my choices of educational climbs in the 5.6-5.8 range in Yosemite Valley, Tuolumne Meadows, Donner Summit and Lover's Leap. (I could create a whole separate list for Joshua Tree.) I have arranged them somewhat in order, with the easier climbs at each level being listed first, the harder ones later. And I have made a few brief notes of some of the features of each climb. As you consider these climbs, let me know if you think I have included any that just aren't that educational, or if I have left out any that you have done that should be included.
5.6
Grack Center, Glacier Point Apron, Yosemite
Great low angle jamming , thin face, mainly good pro
Composure, Snowshed Wall, Donner Summit
Great jamming, some steep
Northwest Books, Lembert Dome, Tuolumne
Liebacking , face climbing, route finding
After Six, Manure Pile Buttress, Yosemite
Corner climbing, face, crack, some route finding
Deception, Hogsback, Lover's Leap
Corner climbing, liebacking, route finding,
Church Bowl Chimney, Church Bowl, Yosemite
Hard chimneying
East Wall Route, East Wall, Lover's Leap
Steep 3-dimensional climbing, dike hiking, route finding
5.7
Pop Bottle (now harder than 5.6), East Wall, Lover's Leap
Corner climbing, crack climbing, good pro
Golfer's Route, Low Profile Dome, Tuolumne
Face climbing, some runouut
Bear's Reach, East Wall, Lover's Leap
Liebacking, corner climbing
West Country, Stately Pleasure Dome, Tuolumne
Low angle delicate liebacking and face climbing, thin (but good) pro. Exposed descent (Style counts here as well!)
Surrealistic Pillar, Lower Buttress, Lover's Leap
Steep crack climbing, runout dike hiking
Chouinard Crack, 1st pitch, Monday Morning Slab, Yosemite
Thin crack climbing, some runout
Jamcrack,1st pitch, Sunnyside Bench, Yosemite
Steep, slick jamming
Bookmark, East Wall Right, Lover's Leap
Steep face and crack climbing, off width
Devaluation, Snowshed Wall, Donner Summit
Steep corner and crack climbing, tricky(but good) pro
Corrugation Corner, Main Wall, Lover's Leap
Put it all together, crack, arete chimney, corner, routefinding
5.8
Alimony Cracks, Daff Dome, Tuolumne
Short but great jamming and liebacking, good pro
Harry Daley, Monday Morning Slab, Yosemite
Boulder start, roof, great jamming
Churchbowl Lieback, Churchbowl, Yosemite
Delicate liebacking, delicate pro
East Crack, East Wall, Lover's Leap
Steep corner & crack climbing
After Seven, Manure Pile Buttress, Yosemite
Steep crack & face climbing
Bishop's Terrace, Church Bowl, Yosemite
Crack, wide crack, steep double hand cracks
Haystack Crack, East Wall, Lover's Leap
Crack climbing, roof
Jelly Roll Arch, Grouse Slab, Donner Summit
Liebacking, tricky (but good) pro
Trial By Fire, Royal Arches Area
Flared off-width
Braille Book, Higher Cathedral Rock, Yosemite
Big approach/descent, tough climbing, chimneying, off-width
South Crack, Stately Pleasure Dome
Put it all together, crack climbing, thin cracks, runout face, route finding
If you are trying to get better, get out there and climb. I propose the above list as climbs you should try. Of course, as in all climbing, you will have to exercise judgment in considering these climbs. If you don't have the skills, either in technique or in placing pro, to do these with confidence, they too could be horror shows. But if your skills are coming along on these and if you are solidifying them on the many other climbs at each level, you should be able to progress with confidence.
In the next installment, Climbing School, Part 2, I will propose a similar list of education climbs to move to the next level, 5.9-5.10. Many climbers climb quite happily for years and never lead harder than 5.8. However, if you wish to move to the next level, stay tuned. I have the climbs for you.
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