Turkey
Email from Istanbul ...
..
Email from Seltuk ...
..
PHOTOS
PHOTOS
Merhaba! Well here I am �n Istanbul. F�rst Impress�ons ... I'm sick to death of be�ng hassled. We can't go anywhere w�thout be�ng stopped. Other than that, people are very friendly, and the food is fantastic! Arr�ved around 4pm yesterday and caught the bus and tram to our hostel after be�ng g�ven a few wrong d�rect�ons. Hostel �s excellent although I got b�tten �n the n�ght and have had an allerg�c react�on and so have b�g puffy eyes and refuse to be �n any photos today. Last n�ght we dropped of our bags at the hostel and then went for a wander. Intended on tak�ng a photo of the blue mosque at dusk but after be�ng stopped so many t�mes on the way we m�ssed the opportun�ty. Had only just left our hostel and was approached my 'Mar�o' - very sexy Turk�sh man play�ng Backgammon on the street and greated us w�th a K�a Ora. Was very much a sweet talker and thought we had done well to get r�d of h�m but later on he d�scovered us aga�n at the Mosque. Emma your gold r�ng has pa�d off! He was very qu�ck on not�c�ng �t, qu�ckly we had to �nvent stor�es regard�ng our wedd�ng ceromon�es and husbands. St�ll very pers�stent we let h�m take us out for d�nner. I have never l�ed so much �n my l�fe. To cut the story short, he tr�ed to w�n us over w�th h�s good looks and colgate sm�le for a shag; to sell us a carpet from h�s fathers store,an�tques from h�s cous�ns store, a package tour from h�s fr�end. He got noth�ng we got a great meal and some �ns�de knowledge! Today we went to the Blue Mosque and took a lot of p�cs. We also tr�ed to sort out a fake student card to get �nto attract�ons and for cheap hostels wh�ch we were recommended to do. Wh�st gett�ng my passport photo tak�ng (swollen eyes and all!) I was told of a k�w� travel agent to go and see who would help me out. Hayden from Maugawha� (up north somewhere) was bloody helpful and w�ll go and see h�m later to get our cards. So today we've been do�ng all the free stuff, went to the sp�ce market wh�ch �s great so �'ve taken lots of photos of food and sp�ces today. Wh�le we were hav�ng a dr�nk we where approached by some men sell�ng perfume (black market). All very dodgey but after lots of argu�ng I now have a bottle of Angel and Guch� Rush. All very dodgey and I probably could of got �t even cheaper but they smell �dent�cal to the real th�ng. Another one that tr�ed to sell me more and was offer�ng f�ve for the same pr�ce (damn) and would not take no for an answer so I had to run off and he st�ll bloody followed me. I'm not do�ng too well to get r�d of people. Ok t�me �s about to run out ... keyboard �s d�fferent so excuse the d�fferent characters. Send me updates of what's happen�ng �n your world Allaha �smarlad�k Dana PS - Everyone tends to speak Engl�sh here, thank goodness!
H� Everyone. ... well w�th l�ttle sleep after tak�ng the n�ght bus from Canakkale to Seluk here we are. Arr�ved at 5am and those that arr�ved at odd hours slept �n the enterta�nment room here at ANZAC house wh�ch �s lovely - full of beaut�ful cush�ons and carpets. We're wa�t�ng on our room so that we can shower so thought I would pop on l�ne and send you all an ema�l. Our last day �n Istanbul was so hect�c. We're real�sed that we've m�ssed such a lot so �t w�ll be a mad dash to do th�ngs before I fly out on the 21st. After muck�ng around try�ng to get our ISIC student cards we f�nally went and d�d a few tour�stee th�ngs. F�rstly the St Soph�a wh�ch was beaut�ful but �t was a p�ty that there was a whole lot of scafold�ng �n the centre for restorat�on. Made our w�sh �n the weep�ng column. We also went to Topkap� Palace later �n the afternoon. Unfortuanately parts of �t were closed for the day (we have s�nce learnt not to trust what travel agents and the Loney Planet wh�ch say otherw�se!). Here we d�scovered where the sultrans of four centr�es res�ded. The place �s huge - lots of photo opportunat�es. Beaut�ful mos�acs and gardens. For our last n�ght �n Instanbul I met up w�th my fr�end Kerry's w�fe Gorkem (I'm sure I told a lot of you that they were marr�ed a month ago and I was so d�sappo�nted to have m�ssed the wedd�ng). Anyway ... �t was so n�ce to f�nally met her, Kerry �s so lucky. We looked through the wedd�ng photos over a couple of beers. There were a few people that I regon�sed such as Stefan who was a w�tness and also Danny. M�chelle - your cous�n Burke was also there! We went to a pretty cheesy restaurant after that enjoy�ng the enterta�nment etc. One th�ng that we �nstanly not�ced was that we were not hassaled nearly as much as they recogn�sed that Gorkem was Turk�sh and she qu�ckly sorted them out when and �f they d�d try. Oh yeah - one th�ng that we fell �n love w�th, was the smell of the water p�pes that people smoked at d�nner t�me. It took us a wh�le to cl�ck what �t rem�nded us of but they honestly smell l�ke Strawberry and Cream Chubba Chubba Chubbs. We ment�oned �t to some people the other n�ght who agreed. Umm .. the food �s great ... no upset tummys as yet. But have been warned that everyone gets s�ck �n Olympus. Ok ... after Istanbul we caught the bus to from Istabul to Ecabet. Well I have never seen so many busses and term�nals �n my l�fe. Th�s whole c�ty was ded�cated to buses �t seems. There were about 150+ bus term�nals. And the serv�ce on the buses .... �t put Br�t�sh A�rways to shame! Stayed �n Ecabet at a place called TJs. The guy �s Turk�sh but he marr�ed an Austral�an. Had too many beers and then went down to the Boomerang pub down the road expec�ally to see the photo of B�lly (guy who we stayed w�th �n Ed�nburgh) taken on Anzac Day on the wall Ange. And there he was - so I asked them to turn all the l�ghts on the pub so I could take a photo of the photos just for you Ange even though you'll see �t next ANZAC day. Went back to the hostel and sat up on the roof w�th all the comfy cush�ons etc. Met loads of Ozz�es and beg�nn�ng to met up w�th the same people aga�n who are follow�ng s�m�lar routes. Yesterday we had a late start as our ANZAC tour d�dnit start t�ll 12.30. Had a qu�ck look at the markets and p�cked up a couple of s�nglets for 1,5 m�ll�on each. So cheap! There was about 32 of us on the tour - ma�nly Austral�ans unforunately. It was so good and mov�ng that I have to h�ghly reccomend �t. V�s�ted the var�ous cemetr�es, monuments, trenches etc. Had a small serv�ce on the beach at ANZAC cove that was extremely emot�onal. It was a pretty busy day and we d�dn't get back to the hostel unt�l 7 pm. Everyone was �n a mad dash to catch busses and ferrys etc. Met up w�th a couple of Austral�an g�rls and a K�w� guy. So thats about �t really - �ts warm and about 30 degrees. Am st�ll yet to get a tan - just have lots of �nsect b�tes and managed to sl�ce my f�nger n�cely yesterday so �ts pretty hard to type w�th a b�g fat banda�d on my f�nger! Not sure what the plan of attack �s today beyond hav�ng a shower - w�ll go and check out some ru�ns I �mag�ne. We're changed our plans a lot to try and f�t �n the four day Gulet cru�se that everyone has h�ghly recommended. Hopefully all goes to plan and we're sa�l from Feth�ye to Ol�mpus. So we scrapped Pamukkale s�nce apparently the calc�um pools don't look l�ke what the photos �n the books dep�ct (they were taken �n the 70s). Thats me for now. Thanks for the ema�ls - sorry �f I haven't repl�ed yet as I've had some pretty slow �nternet connect�ons over the last few days. Hope everyth�ng �s f�nd and dandy �n NZ and those of you who are sk�ers have been hav�ng some fun! Take Care and I m�ss you all heaps Lots of love ME PS - Haruko - on you recommendat�on I had an omlete th�s morn�ng ... dev�ne! Second attempt to send th?s now - hope ?t gets through!
Merhaba - after many attempts at trying to send this off I hope this gets though! Well it seems like it's been a wee while since I did the big fat email thing even though it has only been a week. So here it goes .... It was stinking hot in Selcuk. On our first day after have three hours sleep we went out to Ephesus to look at the ruins. There were tour buses for Africa and was quite frustrating trying to take photos. The ruins were quite amazing - especially the theatre and the library. Got picked up by our hostels minimus and went and relaxed at the pancake house near the grotto of the seven sleepers. Pretty amazing food and setting and it was brilliant laxing out in the shade in the huge cushions. Went back to our hostel in Selcuk (which was fantastic) and had a look around our neighbourhood which consisted of being given a tour of a carpet place where I was once again mistaken as being Turkish; the local mosque; and St Johns Palace (which we came across by accident). People were so friendly around this area - we were fascinated by people cleaining/shampooing their carpet on the street. Back at the hostel we were treated to the best BBQ - the hostel was full so it was pretty cool. Met some girls from Christchurch and also a couple of guys from Australia who we had met in Gallipoli and stayed up drinking with them. Went to the markets the next morning after saying goodbye to the girls who had massive hangovers - Tamsin brought some Fake Nike Pants (fake stuff is everywhere and is so cheap) - think they were about 7 million TL which is about $8.40 NZ. I had some old lady grab my hand insisting I needed an anklet - had a bloody tight grip on her! Later on we met up with with Trent and Justin (boys from Oz) and went to Virgin Marys House. It is very cute church but I got pretty annoyed by some arrogant tourists who took photos inside the church even though it specifically said not to. Grrrrrr. Needless to say I was pretty tempted to be a pain in the arse and stand in their way! At the tourist shops (there are shops for everything!) I met a Turkish guy whose brother must pretty much own every Turkish Restaurant in Wellington! When I said I was from Wellington he said "where do you live? Cuba or Dixon St?". Ummm went to the Museum later that afternoon but I was pretty sick of looking at broken stuff, i.e. ruins and with the lack of air conditioning I was happy to escape to the shade of the pub accross the run and downed an ice-cream and had a seista on the cushions whist Tamsin caught up on her journal. Mucked around the hostel for the rest of the evening - watched a vid, had dinner (another fab meal) and tried to stay awake for our 11pm bus to Fethiye. We were suppose to get in at 6pm but the bus driver must of beeing hooning because we got in 4 am. Thanks to Tamsin haven't the hostels business card on her we managed to get to our hostel on yet another mini bus. There were bats flying around - first time I've seen them. Woke up the hostel and were given a temporart room where we could catch up on sleep and there where two of the most uglyiest slugs I had ever seen! They don't look like NZ slugs - more like Mr Hanky (or what ever that Poo is called in South Park). I was pretty grossed out so I got the guy to remove them - reminded me of the Ferguson Street flat Sam, Stef and Michelle! Caught a mini bus out to Olundinaz and caught some rays for the first time. Full of English tourists here and you boys would of loved the view of all the bare breasted women on the beach! Tamsin fell asleep in the sun and got pretty burnt, I'm blistering at the momment and pretty annoyed about that! That night I realised that a pair of my trousers hadn't been returned in my laudry so it was a mission trying to organise how to get them - thankfully a guest staying at the last hostel was able to bring them down the next day. That evening we met went out for dinner with just about everyone from the hostel that was on a tour. Was the most expensive meal that we've had in Turkey thus far - 13 million - usually it is about six so that should give you an idea on how cheap it is here. Was a bit of a small world - the tour guide was from the Bay and is going out with a guy I know from St Peters. The next day (have lost track of actual days of the week) the plan for the day was to do the Sukulent Gorge with Marade (a girl from the hostel). We hoped on yet another mini bus that said 'Suklulent' and 20 minutes down the track we found ourselve at a bus stop being told that we were on a tour. The first stop was some caves (Something to do with Alexander the great from memory) - we then sat around eating grapes from the wine thinking this was all very weird and where the hell are we going. Further along we stopped again and ate figs off a tree. Still thinking what a strange tour this with and then it started getting better as we stopped as some ruins for an hour and then had lunch at a great trout spot - it was so cool - there were trout swimming along the bar - had to see it to beleive it! Finally at three o'clock we got to the gorge - hired some spunky shoes and crossed the river - it was absolutely freezing and up to my butt. Sam, I think I caught you clutzy disease and fell over in the current but avoided getting camera wet thank goodness. I have never been so cold! At first the walk was easy - but then two young kids were following us who we are so grateful to now. They showed us the right paths and pulled us up ledges and helped us down water falls - it was quite a mission and we were in fits of laughter as we got stuck in tight gaps and Tamsin landed on the poor boys a couple of times and so she tipped them nicely at the end. Poor Tamsin got a sting - wasp floated into her shoe - but the upside on that was that a gorgeous English man pulled the sting out for her! The walk took us a couple of hours - Tamsin and Marade got massive blisters - and on our travels we can tell who has done the walk - they have the trademark blisters on the heels and ankles! Arrived back at the hostel about 10 pm after a mission to retrieve my lost trousers and found everyone was still up and drinking. Jem (Turkish man who worked at hostel) had a guy coming around to cut his hair and the two guys runnning the hostel got theirs done too so I decided to get a trim as well. It was the oddest haircut I ever had! More guess work then anything and he was a bit dodgey too but I won't go into specifics but yet another yukky Turkish man. Well thats what you get for 5000,000 TL I suppose - although my hair is pretty short and the colour resembles a tortise shell cat at the moment due to what the sun has done to my streaks. Don't really care as now one knows me but I'll be coming to see you as soon as get to London Ange King so that you can dye it! Ok - realising I'm writing too much - I'll keep the next bit short - spent Tuesday till Friday aboard a Gulet and sailed from Fethiye to Olimpus. Five kiwi and five ozzies on the boat - two of the guys actually went to Massey the same years I did but I didn't know them although one used to flat with Sam Willis. It was pretty tough - doing nothing but sunbathing, reading, swiming, eating and drinking. On our second night we docked in Kas which is a beautiful little village. The girls went crazy here and brought some lovely jewellery - I had left my Visa Card on the boat - just as well! Went to the local Disco and stayed for the free drinks but it wasn't really going off and so we went back to the boat. On the last night we met up with the other two boats doing the the same thing and had a pirate disco - everyone got pretty drunk as the beer here is quite potent and gives the worst hangovers (and so does the wine and it tastes terrible). Was a bit of a mission catching the water taxi back to the boats - thankfully Claire knew the name of the boats but one of the other guys spent about an hour trying to find our boat and the driver got pretty pissed off with him! We were all pretty sad yesterday to be back on land and go our separate ways. Last night in Olimpus we went and looked at the Eternal Flames which is natural gas coming out of the earth which ignites. Was a pretty exhausting walk up the hill as it was so humid. Spent the night in a tree house and as we still had sea legs in felt like it was swaying - very weird. Today we went to the beach and had a look at more ruins. Moving on tonight to Goreme and I've just relised that the bus leaves in 20 minutes so I better get off, settle the bill and finish packing. Sorry about the huge email. Ok - thanks for the emails everyone - gradually getting throught to them all. Are you alive Mum and Dad? I haven't heard from you for three weeks? Have I got any mail about my Uk bank account or anything else? Ok really got to go know. Post cards will be on their way - just have to wait for post office to open so I can get some stamps! Arohanui Dana PS haven't got time to proof read sorry GB - will expect and obnoxious email from you about my bad grammer and spelling. PPS - For those people in London - has anyone got room for me to doss when I get back on Saturday 21st September, around 11 am I think I get in. PPS - Happy belated 25th birthday for the 12th Cherie - was thinking of you but didn't have access to a computer for while.
Hello! Prom�se th�s one w�ll be short and sweet. Back �n Istanbul, got �n at 6.30 am after a mare of an overn�ght bus trip. Baby scream�ng and an old man s�tt�ng beh�nd us who sounded l�ke he was on h�s death bed, cough�ng up h�s lungs - so d�scust�ng! So today we spent the rest of the mor�ng sleep�ng unt�l m�dday and then d�d the mammouth shop at the Great Bazaar. Went w�th the best of �ntent�ons of buy�ng small g�fts for fr�ends and fam�ly but too many places accepted cred�t card (a rare occurance on our travels) as I am down to my last 20 M�ll�on TL so have brought a fabulous s�lver and turqu�ose bangle and r�ng. Very happy w�th those after see�ng noth�ng that stood out for the last three weeks. Tams�n went mental and has so many table clothes, throws and scarfs that she could almost set up shop - sl�ght exaggerat�on but she d�d have trouble carry�ng th�ngs back to the hostel! Also brought some br�ll�ant Ital�an (and they are authent�c) orange sneaker/street shoes. Damn my eye always catches the expens�ve stuff. Have just gorged outselves on yet another del�ous meal of eggplant, tomatoes (wh�ch are to d�e for) and plenty of other tasty d�shes. Tomorrow we plan to do a boat tr�p up the Bodrum and then explore the as�an s�de for a wh�le and then probably do a mad dash to p�ck up some f�nal souv�ers. S�nce I last caught up w�th you all we've spent t�me �n Goreme (Capadoc�a). The f�rst day (after yet another m�ss�on of overn�ght buses) we went on a tour w�th Spot (the hostels dog) who �s a legend �n the v�llage for tak�ng guests for walks around Goreme. Unfortutanely Spot was not a very good gu�de the day we had h�m - he was more �nterested �n walk�ng �nto restaurants and mark�ng h�s terr�tory on trees! F�nally we made �t to the open A�r Museum (a collect�on of churches) where he walked �n w�th us and found a shady spot. Have got a b�t of a story about th�s place but �s hard to capture w�th out wr�t�ng a whole essay and us�ng a whole lot of swear words. It enta�led us scal�ng bolders, lots of swear�ng, me th�nk�ng that we were go�ng to get robbed and how I was go�ng to have to use the moves I had learnt at Combat (but there was noth�ng to be worr�ed about �n the end), more swear�ng and us f�nd�ng ourselves out of the museum. Anyway got back �n after f�nd�ng the road back and found that our trusty spot had buggered off. The next day we d�d a tour - had a look at the underground c�ty and saw about a m�ll�on fa�ry ch�mneys. The weather packed up for a wh�le and there was a mass�ve sand storm and then down pour wh�ch �n the end resulted �n brll�ant weather the follow�ng day for our 5.00 am start to go Hot A�r Balloon�ng. Had no �ntent�ons of do�ng th�s as �t was Tams�ns th�ng she wanted to do and had been talk�ng about for the last four months but the company that we went through was 200 bucks ( can't f?nd dollar s?gn on keyboard) cheaper than what we had budgeted for so I dec�ded to go. It was a fantast�c morn�ng - so calm and qu�et and we got to watch the sun r�se and �t looked amaz�ng! After our fl�ght we had breakfast wh�ch cons�sted of Beer (sponser of the balloon), cake, and melon p�cked from the f�elds. Got back to the hostel and dec�ded we had seen all that was to be seen so on a �mpluse we changed our plans and found ourselves on a bus to Safranbola on recommendat�on from some k�w�s we had met. Th�s proved to be one of the best dec�s�ons we made all hol�day. It �s a beaut�ful place wh�ch �s famous for �t's Ottoman houses. We had the cutest room (and the most expens�ve we've pa�d all hol�day). I cannot say enough good th�ngs about th�s place. The people are amaz�ng - we found ourselves wonder�ng through the v�llage tak�ng photos of houses and people. Found a school and took photos of the ch�ldren play�ng football. Cheeky characters ask?ng us to take photos of them- some had very good Engl�sh unl�ke the rest of the town (f�rst t�me the phrase book has had to come out really). Met up w?th some other k?w?s and had tea and shared a Nagal? (water p?pe) w?th them and then went and had lunch w?th them at a place we had d?nner at the n?ght before. Food was great and there was so much for about 3 NZ dollars - felt bad only pay?ng that much so they got a large t?p (?n the?r terms) and were very grateful. Haruko - I f?nally went for a Turk?sh Bath. It was fantast?c and I know you would love ?t F?ona! Took two hours for a Sauna, scub and massage. Unforntualey most of my tan has now been removed :-( After that we were pretty stuffed went to a local pub and had a bottle of w?ne and d?nner. Thought th?s comb?nat?on of th?ngs would enta?l a good sleep on the bus but alas no! So .... back ?n Istanbul (much eas?er to get around and not so many hassles although we encounted our old fr?end 'Mar?o' today ask?ng after our husbands) - off to London on Saturday. Stay?ng w?th Ange for a few days. Has anyone heard from Danny? Had he gone to the beer fest already? May have t?me to check ema?l tomorrow so ?f anyone has a f?nal orders for pashm?nas, carpets or turk?sh del?ght now is the t?me to place your last orders. Bye for now. Love Dana PS - Sammy hope to talk to you ?n the weekend :-)
