| ~ ABC Dog School ~ |
| Aggression ~ Tough Choices |
| Copyright 2005 Carole J Sulser |
| Fear Agression: Dogs generally have one of three choices when they feel threatened. Remember that in the wild, it is a matter of survival. An active defense response means that the dog bites first and asks questions later. A passive defense response is to freeze like a deer in the headlights, or run like heck. However, a dog is not limited to only one response. A cornered dog who otherwise may have left the scene, may resort to defending himself with his teeth. A dog who freezes may do the same. None of these responses would be considered aggression. A dog who bites in self-defense is not necessarily an aggressive dog. If a dog bites a child who has pulled his tail, or tripped over him when he was asleep, it is wise to counsel the child on proper behavior around the dog, or to keep child and dog apart. But, if a dog is truly aggressive, he should never be in a situation where there are children. A fear-biter is one who bites in self-defense, but he is not necessarily dangerous. He may do some damage, but he is not usually given to mauling people to death. His fear may be a result of bad breeding, bad experiences in puppyhood, or both. It is never the result of faulty moral reasoning. Dogs are not criminals. Aggression is dangerous behavior when motivated by irrational fear. The dangerous dog takes aggression to a higher level. He doesn't just snap at someone who approaches him...he takes the offensive. He lunges, he attacks, he goes after the target. He may do this with everyone he isn't familiar with, or even with those he is. He may react to certain people and not to others regardless of familiarity. He may act immediately or wait a bit and then suddenly decide something needs to be done. In short, he is not to be trusted with anyone at all. Once it has been determined whether the dog is dangerous or not, the next question is what to do with him. If he truly is dangerous...if he is likely to seriously maim someone...a tough choice must be made. One could simply do away with him. Or he could be locked up in a covered chain-link pen, and muzzled when taken anywhere. Or one could try obedience training, and I'm not talking about treats, clickers, and tennis balls. I mean the real deal. But, even at that, there must be a realistic evaluation of the results. He may be a candidate for rehab, or he may not. I like to think that most are. |
| In order to make choices about how to handle your aggressive dog, it helps to know what type of aggression it is, and what level. |
| Dominance Aggression: We have learned much about the dynamics of social order in wolves, and from that, we have learned a lot about dog behavior. Because we have seen how wolves sort themselves out in the pecking order, we can understand why our dogs do the things they do, and how to get the message across as to who is in charge of this pack. In any group, the most dominant member will be on the throne, whether his dominance level is high or not. It just needs to be the highest of that group. The most submissive dog will happily ascend if his owner doesn't. Aggression doesn't need to be present, and even among wolves, there is less of it than you might think. Here, I am dealing with dominance aggression as it is directed toward the dog's human companions. Even a strongly dominant dog will submit to his owner's leadership if he is convinced that his owner does indeed rule the roost. It's only natural. But when a dog challenges authority with his teeth, there's a serious problem. Sometimes it's only a matter of the dog being in the hands of the wrong person. He knows he can do it and get away with it. Sometimes this type of dog can be re-homed and do just fine. But there are always the really bad cases where it would be a big mistake to foist the dog off on someone else who may get hurt. What's an owner to do when he's facing this level of aggression? That's where professional trainers come in. And again I say, it must be the real deal, the kind of training that establishes the pecking order. It's serious business. A choice must be made. Put the dog down, or pen him up, or get help. I must say at this point, that the size and breed of the dog are considerations. For instance, the most aggressive dog I've ever met is my 12-pound Miniature Pinscher, and if he were a larger dog, I would have no choice but to put him down. He can bite me all he wants, but my life is hardly in danger, and I could easily drop-kick him into the next county if it were necessary. If it were only dominance aggression, I could deal effectively with that, and have to some extent, but it's his fear aggression that may never be resolved. It should also be noted that prey and chase instincts that lead to mauling due to the size of the dog in comparison to the size of the "prey," should not be confused with dominance or fear aggression. Any large dog can be dangerous under certain circumstances, simply because he is a carnivore, and retains in his genetic makeup, instincts that once made it possible to survive in the wild. Without a chase instinct, there would be no more fun with tennis balls. Without a prey instinct, no more need for furry little chew toys. |
| Methods of Dealing With Fear Aggression |
| The problem with fear aggression is convincing the dog that he doesn't need to feel threatened. When I tried to use a flea comb on J.D., he attacked the comb with a vengeance. Trying to brush him produced the same results. Nail clippers...same thing. And this is what I mean by fear aggression. When he sees anyone but me, he's instantly in attack mode. If he were a larger dog, he'd be very dangerous. Even at his small size, he can inflict some damage. If you have a dog this aggressive, you need more help than I can give you here. Please see my book page for information on a book called Final Hope. There you will find complete instructions for dealing with aggression. The two methods generally used on fearful dogs are desensitization and flooding. One introduces the dog gradually to that which he is afraid of, and the other involves exposure in large doses. Along with either method, your dog needs obedience training that will bring him under your control. It's very hard for a dog doing a reliable sit- or down-stay to attack someone. Please be aware that your dog picks up on your own fears, too. If you are a person who is mistrustful of others, or feels threatened by anyone who knocks on your door, you are going to have a hard time convincing your dog that he has nothing to fear. |
| Methods of Dealing With Dominance Aggression |
| There could be any number of reasons why your dog is challenging your authority. The problem at hand now is how to get it back without endangering yourself. If you can get a training collar on him, begin working him on a 15 foot leash, as described in William Koehler's book, and elsewhere in this website. Until you have him under control, avoid any situation that might trigger aggression. Restrict his freedoms. That means, he sleeps in a crate at night, never in your bed or on the furniture. If he refuses to go into his crate, it's okay to use a treat in order to avoid getting bitten. He gets fed only at mealtimes...no constant supply of food available. If he isn't neutered, get it done. Lowering his testosterone level will help. Aggressively dominant dogs are not breeding stock. Producing dangerous dogs is not acceptable. Exercise him. If you aren't up to jogging, throw something for him to chase. If he won't let you have it back, use two somethings. If his mouth is big enough for two, use three! Trying to take one away from him could get you bitten. If you are afraid of your dog, you are either done with him, or you can turn him over to a pro, or get the kind of help that will give you the confidence and tools you need. Again, I refer you to the book mentioned above. It may be your dog's final hope. Please, don't put yourself in danger. Only you can judge your chances. |
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