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Welcome To Our Household Tips Page
This page contains tips on several household topics. You can click on the categories below to see tips on that category. Click on top to come back to this list from the tips.
Cleaning
Cooking
Decorating
Food Handling
House Plants
Sewing
Cleaning
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Ballpoint Ink Removal
Head to your medicine cabinet (or wherever you store your beauty products) and pull out the rubbing and denatured alcohol. Rubbing alcohol can be used to take out ballpoint ink from a fabric (test first in an inconspicuous place). Use the denatured alcohol on a fusible-bond disaster. Dab a bit onto the fusible bond to take the glue out of the fabric. Again, test it to make sure it doesn't harm the fabric.
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Cooking
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Lighter Batter
You can achieve a lighter batter when preparing foods by using liquids with carbonation instead of the water or milk in many recipes. Beer is great for full-flavored foods because it also adds a little flavor of its own. Use it in batters for fish and onion rings. Foods like vegetable fritters are best when club soda replaces some of liquids in the batter.
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Decorating
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Make that lovely bouquet last longer
Once you have that lovely bouquet in your hands, don't be tempted to plop the entire thing in a vase and run off after more romantic pursuits! Take a couple of minutes to do it right. If your roses arrived in a box (not in water), remove all the foliage that would be below water level in the vase (usually the lower third). Cut about one inch from the ends while holding the stems under warm water (100 degrees F), using pruning shears or a sharp knife. Cutting the stems under water ensures that water, not air, will enter the stem.
Leave the cut ends of the stems in the water until you are ready to arrange them, to prevent them from drying out. Use a floral preservative in the water to lengthen the life of the flowers. Some good ones are Bloomlife, Everbloom, Floralife, Petalife, and Roselife. (Note: Repeated scientific testing has shown that aspirin in the water does NOT prolong the life of cut flowers. In fact, the life of most kinds of flowers is actually shortened by aspirin.) If you are using floral foam (oasis) in your arrangement, be sure to soak it in a water-preservative solution before use. Place flowers and finished arrangements in a cool place, out of direct sunlight, and away from heat and drafts.
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Drapery Tiebacks
Don't forget to use your creative abilities when designing curtain tiebacks. You don't have to be limited to metal or ropes when you came make your own. Consider a large zigzag shape, braiding three pieces of stuffed tubing, or any shape that can be drawn and sewn together. You could make plain drapes and a variety of seasonal tiebacks. Also, glue dried silk flowers onto the front-side of a tieback to match the floral motif of a room.
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Curtains: Optical Illusions
There are several "tricks" to curtain placement on a window to make the window look different from what it actually is. Consider these things before you measure for the drapes you plan to make.
To make a window look:
- Wider - Increase the amount of drapery stacking space on each side of the window.
- Taller - Install the rods up higher than normal.
- Narrower - Make curtains that join at the center top and then pull them back with tiebacks.
- Lower - Make a deep valance or swag.
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Food Handling
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Raw Sprouts
Eating raw sprouts, such as alfalfa or clover, can lead to food-derived illness as sprouts often come into contact with Salmonella or E. coli from the feces of animals. In addition, even though pre-treating or soaking the sprouts in a chlorine solution can reduce the chance of contamination, it does not completely eliminate it, according to a study published in the December 1, 2001 issue of the American Journal of Epidemiology. For the study, researchers analyzed data from 20 of 112 people involved in an outbreak of Salmonella in Colorado in 1999. Nearly half of those with Salmonella poisoning studied had consumed raw sprouts prior to the outbreak. The US Food and Drug Administration recommends that people cook sprouts thoroughly before consuming them. This is especially important for those who are at risk for serious complications from a bacterial infection, such as the elderly, young children, and those with a weakened immune system. The study authors also reminded readers to use caution when dining out, as many restaurants include raw sprouts in salads and sandwiches.
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How To Prevent A Grain Moth Invasion
Have you ever had a problem with little bugs in your flour or other whole foods? If you buy food from the health food store, then there is a good chance that you have encountered them at one time or another. One tip for preventing these critters from becoming a problem is to put your food into jars or other containers with tight-fitting lids as soon as you bring them home. Then put the jars in the freezer for a few days. This will kill any larva that might be in the food. By keeping the foods that seem to be most at risk--like grain and flour--in jars, the food is less likely to get invaded by any moths that manage to sneak past you!
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House Plants
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Propagating An African Violet Is Easy
Whether sharing a favorite variety with a friend or increasing your own collection, African violets (Saintpaulia genus) are easily propagated from a leaf of an existing plant. The following steps will get you on your way.
First, select a healthy leaf (no insects/blotches/dead areas) from the middle of the plant. The smaller new leaves are not mature enough to use, and the larger mature leaves have less vigor. Remove the leaf with sharp scissors, leaving at least one inch of the petiole (leaf stem) on the leaf. Re-cut the end of the petiole with a sharp razor at a 45-degree angle that tapers to a point.
Fill a small pot with moistened potting mixture (there is some made exclusively for African violets). Use a pencil, thin twig, etc. to poke a hole in the soil about 1 1/4 inches down. Insert the petiole (leaf stem) in the hole and firm the potting soil around it securely.
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African Violet Propagation: Continued
After selecting your stem and planting it in the pot, cover the pot with an inverted clear plastic cup, or a plastic wrap tent supported by Popsicle sticks. This keeps humidity high around the plant, and keeps the soil from drying out. Place the potted leaf in indirect, bright light. No direct sun should hit the container. Check soil moisture weekly--soil should be slightly damp.
Roots should form in 6-8 weeks; new plant leaves will follow several months later. You can speed up the process by cutting the original leaf (mother leaf) in half once roots have formed. When the new leaves do finally show themselves, fertilize the plants with a half strength water-soluble fertilizer. As the new plants progress, gradually remove the plastic covering. The tent should not be taken off all at once, but opened a little at a time over the course of a week. When the new plant has 4 leaves and is about 2 inches tall, cut away the mother leaf at the base of the stem. New roots will fill the pot. This is a good time to transplant to a slightly larger container.
You can also root a leaf in water. Use a dark-colored glass (minimal light should penetrate the container) or small vase and fill it to within an inch of the top. Cover the top of the glass with aluminum foil and poke a small hole in the foil. Your leaf petiole will slide in and be supported by the foil. The petiole should just be touching the water. Add water as necessary to maintain this level, and pot the leaf in growing medium when roots reach about a half-inch in length.
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Spider Mites On Houseplants
Spider mites, sometimes referred to as red spiders, are tiny, almost microscopic arachnids that thrive under typical winter (indoor) conditions. Mites can be green, yellow, orange, or brown and do their damage by sucking sap out of plant cells. Ivy is very susceptible to winter mite problems.
Spider mites can be detected by scouting leaves for an off-color appearance; where sap is removed, chlorophyll also is removed, leaving tiny pale dots. A plant that is heavily infested with mites will be covered in fine webbing. To me, a dusty, dirty looking leaf warrants closer attention. If you suspect mites, tap a leaf over a white piece of paper and look for moving dots the size of finely ground pepper. Check tomorrow's tip for how to deal with these little devils.
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Dealing With Spider Mites
The best way to deal with mites is to prevent their build up. Increased humidity around the plant, and proper watering (don't stress plants by too much or too little) will decrease feeding potential for mites. Check all new plants brought into your house. If mites are discovered, the best indoor solution is insecticidal soap. Thoroughly douse leaves with a commercial insecticidal soap, such as Safer's. Avoid mixing your own homemade concoction, which can be damaging to leaves. Repeat applications will probably be necessary. Refer to the product label.
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Fertilizing Winter Houseplants
Go easy on fertilizer. Although individual plants have different fertility needs, generally most plants need little fertilizer during the winter. Find a good houseplant reference like Taylor's Guide to Houseplants (Houghton Mifflin Company) to find specific fertilizer recommendations.
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Watering Winter Houseplants
Now that days are shorter, meaning there is less light, you need to water your plants less. They aren't doing as much (if any) growing, so their fertility and moisture needs decline. The number one killer of houseplants is overwatering! To determine if a plant needs water, check the soil at least two inches down with your finger. If it's dry, it's time to water. If you can, take your plant to a large sink or the bathtub where water can run freely through the soil and out. Water, wait 5-10 minutes, and then water again.
If your finger cannot penetrate the soil, your plant is probably root-bound. It is difficult to water a root-bound plant as the moisture is usually shed to the outside of the rootball. You may have to soak the pot in a shallow pan of water for half an hour or so. Repot your plant come springtime.
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Sewing
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Pin-'Less' Sewing
Pinning seams takes more of your time than you think. Besides the time it takes to put in the pins, it slows you down while sewing, since you have to take out the pins as you reach them. Here's a suggestion: At the start of a seam, place your fabric under the presser foot and anchor it with the needle. Next arrange the next 6 - 10" and hold with your fingers. Sew that area and arrange the next 6". Continue until the end of the seam. Curves and intricate areas may only be able to be "finger" pinned 1 - 2" at a time.
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Stitch Check
Before you begin sewing, pick a good size scrap piece of your fashion fabric to check your stitching. Sew across the bias (as opposed to the straight of the grain) to check the tension, thread color and size, needle size, stitch length and stitch formation. If it all checks out across the bias, then it will look good when you are stitching with the grain.
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Balanced Tension Stitch Check
Sometimes you think you have a perfectly balance stitch (both the upper and lower tension are just right), but how do you really know? Here is the definitive test. Make a line of stitches on a test piece of fabric. Pick up the piece in both hands and hold the line of stitching with your thumbs and index fingers about 3" apart. Snap the stitching. If both threads break evenly, you do have a perfect stitch. If the top thread breaks, then the upper tension is too tight. If the lower thread breaks, then the upper tension is too loose. Adjust your machine accordingly.
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Stitching With Paper
Using paper between your fabric and the feed dogs can help eliminate puckered seams, skipped stitched, slipping fabrics, etc. Use heavier paper than tissue paper, wax paper or typing paper so that it will tear much easier and neater. Also, remember that paper of any type has a grain. If you stitch with the paper grain, the paper will tear away from the seam with more ease than stitching on the crosswise grain.
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Taking It Out
There is a right way and a wrong way to take a stitched piece out of your sewing machine. When you are finished stitching a seam, lift the presser foot and slide the piece away from you. If you pull the piece toward you, you run the risk of breaking the needle or upper thread.
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Gathering: Reducing Bulk
Sewing a gathered piece of fabric to a flat piece of fabric is challenging. Here's how: After you have gathered the piece, press the gathers flat in the seam allowance only. This will reduce the bulk under the presser foot. Sew with the gathered piece on top, so that you can keep the gathers straight as you sew. Sew just to the left of the gathering stitches on the seam line so that you can eliminate the gathering stitch itself from showing on the right side.
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Gathering: More Control
To make the most of your gathering, try the following: Loosen your needle tension slightly, use a long machine stitch length (or a basting stitch), and do two rows of stitching -- one on the seam line and one 1/2" from the raw edge. The key is to begin your second row of stitching exactly in line with the first stitch of the first row. This will ensure that your gathers will be straight.
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Polyester Vs. Rayon Thread
There are advantages to polyester or rayon thread when doing machine embroidery. Here's how to choose which one is right for your project:
- Polyester thread can be bleached and washed in higher temperature water and is stronger than rayon thread. It is great in children's clothes.
- Rayon thread has a better sheen and comes in a wider choice of colors. It's good for use in designs on items that aren't washed.
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Button Placement
You don't have to follow the pattern's placement for your buttonholes. Most of the time, you can place the buttonholes 3/4" from the finished edge of the garment. You may want to place the hole for a larger button further than 3/4". A rule to follow is to measure the button, then take half the diameter of the button plus 1/2". For a 1" button, start the buttonhole 1" from the edge.
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From The Bottom Up
It's everyone's natural inclination to start at the top of a project and work down, but this isn't a good idea when making buttonholes. Make your first buttonhole at the bottom of the garment, just in case you make a mistake. The last buttonhole is usually not noticeable, especially if located at the bottom of a shirt or skirt.
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When To Crease
You should always press a crease in the front of pants while constructing them, because fabric that is pressed along a fold tends to stretch. So if you wait until your pants are finished to put in the crease, the pants will not hang properly.
Here's how to get a distinct (and proper) curve along the crease line: Mark your crease line and shrink out the fullness along the line, while stretching the fabric along the seam line.
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Pant Crease
To properly crease a pair of pants, all you have to do is match the inner and outer leg seams. First, match them from the knee to the hem and press. Continue the crease from the knee, on grain line, to the waist. If your pants have a waist pleat (and it is a well-designed pattern), the pleat closest to the center front should line up with your crease.
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The Proper Pants Length
If you have trouble with determining the proper pants length, try this standard alteration room method. Take off your shoes, put on your pants, and mark where the pants stop at the floor. Cut the pants off at this point. Now, sew a 1 1/2" hem allowance and they will look like they were professionally altered. If you wear flats, use a 2" hem; and if you wear heels, use a 1" hem.
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Too Full Pants
Many women wear their pants legs too full, making them look shorter than they really are. If you have a favorite pattern but the legs are too full, taper them. When tapering, you must adjust both inner and outer seams or the legs will twist. On the outside, start the taper below the fullest part of the knees and go to the hem. On the inside of the leg, start at the knee.
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Pants: Horizontal Wrinkles
Are the wrinkling in your pants smiling or frowning at you? When your pants are not fitting properly, the horizontal wrinkles in the crotch and upper thigh area can tell you what is wrong. If they curve upward in the front, than the pant legs are too tight in the thigh area. If they curve down in the back, that means you don't have enough fabric through the seat of the pants.
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Piping A Garment
Piping can add to any garment -- as long as it doesn't make the edges curl outward. If you pull the piping while sewing it onto the garment, it will be shorter than the area it has to cover, causing it to curl. Put piping in with plenty of ease and do not pull it taut.
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Piping And Seams
When you use piping, cut out the filler in the seam and hem allowances of the garment. This allows the garment to be completely corded and your seam allowances to be flat and flexible. Just pull back the cording cover and cut out the filler as close to the seam as you can.
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Laying Out Lace
Laying out your lace for a garment is one of the most important steps to a successful looking outfit. Place the lace on a dark background so that the motif is easy to see. Slide around the pattern piece until you are satisfied with the placement. The larger the motif, the more crucial the placement. If you are working with a bodice piece, you will want to avoid a "bulls-eye" effect at the bust line.
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Lace Cut-Away
For a striking effect on sleeves, consider doing a lace cut-away. A lace cut-away is when you cut away the fashion fabric behind the lace for a see-through effect. Here's how: Place your lace motif on the sleeve, zigzag it in place, and, using small, sharp scissors, cut away the fabric behind the lace. If you are lucky enough to own applique scissors, use them in this process.
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Applying Lace To A Curved Edge
When you are applying lace to a curved edge, it will be easier if the lace has a lot of pattern detail to camouflage the curves. Using a steam iron, shape the lace to the curve. If the curve is too great for the iron to curve the lace, then you will need to cut it periodically. When you do cut it, cut around a motif (as opposed to through one) and overlap the motif to follow the curve.
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No Bind Clipping
Just because the pattern tells you to clip curves, don't just start cutting! Once a seam is cut, you will not be able to make any type of alteration. If you must clip a seam, do so after you have tried on the garment. First, steam the seam into a curved shape before trying on the garment to help the seam lay flat without clipping.
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No Iron Velvet
Can you imagine making a whole garment without ever using an iron? Well, if you are using silk, rayon, or acetate velvet, then you may not have to touch an iron to your garment during construction. These types of velvet can be finger pressed throughout the construction process. Finger pressing will not work with velveteen (which is made from cotton).
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Take It Off The Bottom
Plastic zippers cut easily (if you have ever accidentally cut one, you know this!), so it's a snap to shorten one. Measure the length you need from the top of the closed zipper, mark this length, and sew back and forth at that point with your sewing machine. Your line of stitches will easily stop the zipper pull. Cut off the excess zipper about 1/2" from your stitched stop.
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Measuring Long Drapes
It is important to have your drapery rods hung at the window before measuring for curtain length. To get the finished length of long drapes, measure from the top of the track or pole to the floor. Once the hooks are attached to the drapes, they will raise the drapes 1/2" - 3/4" off of the floor -- just enough to allow them to be opened and closed without dragging on the floor. Once you have the finished length, add the proper seam/hem allowances.
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Getting The Blood Out
If you are hand sewing a garment that can't stand any water and get a "pin prick" bloodstain, try this method to get the blood out. Thread a double strand of white cotton thread. Run the thread across your tongue. Push the needle and thread through the spot until the blood comes out. The enzyme in your saliva will dissolve the blood.
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