| Heroin chic. Fashion models always aimed to be thin, sometimes with such determination that they become anorexic or suffered other medical problems. In the mid 90s, this waif-like image became accentuated even more, with models appearing hung-over and with dark circles under glazed eyes. This look, which was thought by some in the fashion business to be attractive to young people, and which was typified by a notorious set of pictures in 1997 advertising Calvin Klein clothes, was dubbed heroin chic because the models appeared as if they were drug addicts. In fact, there were well-substatiated reports that heroin addiction was common among fashion photographers and models, so the look was not always simulated. In the US, where this fashion was more prevailent than in Britain, it drew many protests from anti-drug groups, culminating in a much publicised attack by President Clinton in May 1997 following the death from an overdose of the fashion photographer Davide Sorrenti. Reports of this speech promoted the first mention of the term in mainstream British newspapers, just at the time when pressure of public opinion was forcing designers, photographers and editors to reassess the value of the style. Thirteen British fashion designers were reported to have signed a statement in October 1997 condemning the heroin look, marking the formation of a group called Designers Against Addiction. Heroin chic fell out of fashion within the business. 1997 models, fucked by drugs/money, intravenous popularity, and their designer bosses. "Such a corrupt business", mumbled the world. America was furious. "Big is beautiful" they winged. Britain churned out its council-estate beauties with histories of anorexia. The make-up industry clapped. Worries turned to health; anorexia, bulimia. Our poor girls, our poor, poor girls. Our daughters starve themselves. Girl power/vulnerable girls. The factories went Clink-clink-clink. Greasy, robotic girls sat at home eating chocolate watching beautiful, powdery women on CBBC. She scores so well in chemistry tests, the boys copy her working-out, but she's troubled by a spot on her face that she just can't leave alone. Have you done your homework? No. No dinner for you, young lady. Invisible index. |