Basics Betta splendens, also known as the Siamese fighting fish, is but one the twenty-eight known species of bettas and by far the most popular. Bettas on average grow to a body length of 2-3 inches depending on sex and come in a varity of colors and fin types. Bettas are solitary fish but require plenty of room to live a long and peaceful life and thrive on human attention.
The Tank
Anything over 2.5 gallons is going to be perfect for a single betta. Ideally, 5-6 gallons and yes, a 10 gallon would be great. Bettas require a steady water tempature as well as filtration. Some 2.5 gallon takes are long designed in a way that you can fit both a filter and heater in the tank but anything under 5 gallons, as a rule, is hard to safely heat. Also, when it comes right down to it, its easier to clear a larger tank than one you can hardly get into. Some of the most popular tanks for bettas are listed below. They all include a tightly fitted lid with light and filtration.
* Please note some bettas do have a hard time in these types of tanks due to relfection. Some get over it within a few hours to days while others stress themselves out needlessly and often end up ill. The tank itself isn't bad but it does depend on the personality of the betta.
The Heater
The perfect tempature is somewhere between 78F-82F. The higher the less lighly the betta will suffer fungul diseases sich as ick and fin rot but at the same time cooler water will hold onto oxygen better. Always make sure you have a thermometer in the tank and do check it daily.
The Filter
Most tanks the ideal size for a betta already include a filter in the aquarium tank. The main thing to remember is that bettas fins are incrediblly frail, often getting sucked into the filter intake. To help prevent that, many people simply cover the intake with a piece of filter sponge which also helps the filtration process. The filter flow is also an important thing to look at, over time a betta can adapt to a stronger current and will often enjoy swimming into it but it is important to make sure the betta is not being thrown all over the tank.
Substrate
Bettas love dragging their fins along the bottom of the tank so ideally smooth is good. You're going to be looking about a 1" substrate depth, how much you'll need depends on the tank as well as the substrate of your choice. The flat marbles you can usually find in craftstores, are often found at dollar stores. As long as there isn't anything painted onto the glass they should be safe for aquarium use. Most pet stores sell small bags of gems for twice as much as you would for twice as many but if in doubt, go with something intended for aquarium useage. Color gravel is also popular due to the varity of colors, it may not look natural but as long as it doesn't burn the eyes it can be fun to set up the decor to match the betta's coloring. Stay away from sand or anything small enough to fit inside a betta's mouth. Bare bottom tanks are also an option but usually less attractive.
The Set Up
Once you have your aquarium, filter, heater and substrate set up the next thing to do is to cycle the tank. Depending on how you go about the cycle you can expect to beable to buy your betta as soon as the filter and heater have been running or end up waiting for up to a month for the cycle to complete. Without this step you put your betta, and any fish in danger. You can read more about the Nitrogen Cycle and how to go about starting it at FishLore.com. During the cycle is also a good time to figure out how you are going to decorate the aquarium. Live plants are nice but depending on lighting and substrate it can be a little overwhelming, not to say you can't. PlantGeek.net is a wonderful place for infomation. Regardless of how you decorate the tank, just make sure to avoid any sharp objects. Most fish wont have much of a problem but again, betta's fins are very frail and easily get caught. Also, make sure there is something tall enough so that the betta can rest just under the surface of the water.
Must Haves
While the tank is cycling now is a good time to start stocking up and planning ahead. First thing's first, API's Freshwater Master Test Kit. A bit costly but considering how much use you are going to get out of the kit, get it. Cheap testing papers are rarely accurate and most of the time you cannot trust your local pet store to give you a correct reading (they often use the test papers themselves). It is a very good idea to have the kit prior to setting up the tank so you can monitor the cycling process.
Next you will want to have some sort of water conditioner. Prime should be your number one pick. AquaSafe is another choice but in almost all cases you will want to go with prime. Never do a water change without mixing a water conditioner into the new water first.
