Buyer's Checklist to a quality Honda
Buyer's checklist:
1. Check service records for evidence of
frequent preferably, 3000-mile oil changes. CRX engines are
exceptionally smooth easy revving engines, in part because of light duty piston
rings that are easily damaged by contaminated oil. On 1984 thru 1987 cars with
infrequent oil changes, the number one cam bearing is prone to seizing,
which in turn causes the camshaft to break in half. But well maintained
CRX engines are good for 150,000 plus miles without major repair.
2. Inspect the undercarriage for evidence of collision damage. Look for
wrinkles in the frame rails, for welds in the rocker panels and for
wrinkles in the front crossmembers. Run a tape measure from the edge of
the front wheel rim to the edge of the rear wheel rim on
one side of the car. Do the same on the other side. The two sides should match exactly.
3. Check the horn for operation. An inoperative horn is often an omen of
collision damage usually because the body shop forgot to
hook it back up after repairs. The same goes for the windshield washer jets, though
they could just be clogged with wax.
4. Check the air conditioner for proper operation. Major a/c system
repairs are costly. Honda has yet to supply 134 A retrofit kits
for the CRX.
5. Check operation of the parking brake. If the brake lever rises too
far the system is self adjusting' it's an indication of
brake system problems.
6. Be sure all exterior lights come on bright and clear. Dim lights
usually mean bad grounds often because they haven't been
properly grounded after collision repair or because they're grounded to body
filler.
7. Look for rust in the radiator. Several valves in the
emissions control system are controlled by coolant temperature; if the valve
passages clog with rust, the engine won't idle properly. Proper coolant
mixture is also critical for any aluminum engine's long life. It's also
vital for the life of the CRX's water pump. The engine's timing belt is
driven off the water pump, and if the pump fails, the timing belt can
break. When the timing belt breaks, it will usually bend valves,
necessitating a cylinder head rebuild.
8. Check service records for evidence of timing belt change every 60,000
miles. See Number 7 above.
9. Check service records for evidence of transmission fluid changes.
Manual transmissions should be filled only with regular motor oil, not
90 weight gear oil. Manual transmission synchros are strong, but
bearings frequently fail on transmissions that don't receive regular oil
changes.
10. Inspect for battery acid caused corrosion around the battery
tray. An air conditioner high-pressure switch, as well as other
electrical system wiring, is located under the tray. Excessive corrosion can cause
a/c and electrical problems, and eat through the chassis too.
11. On carbureted cars only, check that the air cleaner is an
original equipment part with a metal frame. After market air cleaners usually
don't have the metal frame; plastic frames don't seal well in the CRX's
air cleaner box, which allows dirt to be sucked into the engine,
which in turn, damages the piston rings.
12. On carbureted cars only, check to see if the car starts and dies
when cold. It may need a new carburetor base plate as they are prone to
deteriorate.
13. Look for oil leaks from the oil drain plug. The plug threads are apt
to strip, which usually means a new oil pan is required.
14. Inspect the CV joint boots to see that they are intact. There
are two on each front wheel. If the boots are not intact or if they're stiff
they'll throw off their grease, leading to damage of the joints.
Replacing the joints is expensive.
15. Check service records for evidence of strut/shock absorber
replacement. OEM units are good for little more than 12,000 miles.
16. Inspect exhaust system for rust/deterioration. CRXs collect a lot of
moisture; stainless steel systems are a good investment.