It wasn't until I went to Latvia that I realised what a troubled history the country has. Latvia was occupied for most of the 20th century - first by the Russians, then by the Germans and then, after being "liberated" by the allies, it was given back to Stalin to form part of the Soviet Union. It was not until 1991 that the Latvians finally through off the mantel of oppression and declared full independence. After visiting Latvia you certainly get the feeling that Latvians revel in their relatively new found indepdence and are proud of all things Latvian.

Riga

Visited: August 2004
Riga is the biggest city in the Baltic and used by the West as a listening post to Russia. There is still a large Russian population today.

Arrive

We took a Eurolines bus from Tallinn, Estonia. The bus was very cheap and took about 2 1/2 hours.

Explore

Old Town - Wandering round Riga's old town is a relaxing way to spend a sunny afternoon. Pubs and cafes line the several town squares and it is easy to while away many hours sampling Latvian beers in shadow of the Dome Cathedral.

The Museum of the Occupation of Latvia - The Occupation Museum charts the troubling history of Latvia's occupation from 1940-1991. There is a wealth of information in the museum, which is translated into half a dozen languages. There are also some amazing pictures - particularly the shots of the Baltic independence demostration in which over 2 million residents of Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania to protest against Soviet occupation.

Latvian War Museum - Not much was in English but there were interesting photos of World War 2 - especially the photos of the 1945 Russian victory parade in Red Square.

Freedom Monument - After 51 years of occupation the Freedom Monument is a big deal. Make sure you visit on the hour to walk the goose-stepping soldiers perform the changing of the guard. A park with a canal running through it surrounds the Monument. The bridge over the canal is covered in locks put there by couples for good luck.

Rest

Elizabeth's Youth Hostel had just opened when we stayed there. It is a cute, clean place with really friendly helpful staff. The location is brilliant as it is only a short walk from the train/bus station and the Riga markets and right next to a modern shopping mall that includes a multiplex and two supermarkets.

Sigulda

Visited: August 2004
The town of Sigulda (supposedly a town of 10,000 people although when we were there it was difficult to count 10) is at the entrance to the Gauja National Park.

Arrive

Sigulda is a short 1 1/4 hour train ride from Riga. Trains seemed to run fairly regularly.

Explore

There is a cable car across the river into the heart of the park and there are several walking tracks that lead you to the Turaida Museum Reserve, which includes the red brick 13th century Turaida Castle.
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