Packing List For Back Packing Trips    - C. Peter Zuroff    started: 4 / 2005   revision: 01 / 11 / 2009

                                               

Back-Packing

  I got into the hobby of backpacking a few years ago.  I sort of stumbled into it.  My interest originated from my favorite activity - motorcycle touring/camping.  I’ve visited so many beautiful parks and forests that people have asked me if I hiked particular trails in those fantastic places.  I never hiked any trails on those trips.  As one documentary stated; “Motorcyclists like to be part of nature, but they want to experience it FAST!”  After these questions, riding up and down Skyline Drive and the Blue Ridge Parkway, and reading Bill Bryson’s book, “A Walk in the Woods”; the desire to hike the Appalachian Trail started to wriggle into my mind.  I’ve always thought about doing it.  The desire was notched up.  Since then I have backpacked 1600 miles of the Appalachian Trail and I’ve learned a lot about myself and hiking.

  Starting out on this new hobby, I already had a large amount of camping experience.  I probably have close to a thousand miles of canoeing/camping distance/time logged in.  I camp out on most of my motorcycle trips.  I put in my years as a youth with the Boy Scouts. And enough time had passed where I thought that my gear was of a high enough quality and lightness where I could use much of it in the pursuit of the hobby of backpacking.  I went out and bought a large pack, hiking boots and started backpacking.  I avoided many of the obvious novice pitfalls { breaking in feet and boots before a hike, wore good wool socks, brought the right gear for rain protection, water proofed my boots, stuffed things that needed to stay dry in water-proof sacks, avoided cotton, selected clothing that could be worn in layers, and didn’t bring the million useless things sold in camping stores }.

  So on my first hike I didn’t overpack - well, at least I thought that I didn’t.  I was pretty well prepared for the winter weather.  But I quickly discovered that weight is an extremely important issue when backpacking.  The years since hiking as a boy scout mellowed my memories of a heavy pack.  I was spoiled by my recent years of canoeing and motorcycling.  The weight of my gear was supported by either a canoe or a motorcycle.  I learned very quickly that my gear needed to be lighter.

  I started changing my gear to lighten up the load.  First thing was to eliminate unnecessary items.  Then start replacing items with lighter ones.  But there’s always a cost factor.  Light weight gear is not cheap.  But I kept thinking that grams add up to ounces and ounces add up to pounds; how much was I willing to pay to avoid lugging up an additional pound up a mountain?  That shines a whole different light on each ounce or even grams.  Later on I learned that water management is a major issue.  Water weighs two pounds per liter.

  As I gain more experience I make changes in my gear to sacrifice one comfort to gain another.  On each hike I learn a little more about myself and what sacrifices I’m willing to make to save weight.  When a reduction in weight is obtained, a different comfort is gained by carrying less weight.  I keep upgrading individual items to ones that weigh less or are more effective in what they do, or better yet: are dual purpose items.  As these changes in gear are made, then that effects other gear decisions.  Occasionally I decide the opposite: to carry more weight to gain another kind of comfort.  For example; I’m packing a much larger and heavier camera now.  I want to take better pictures.  So it is difficult to give a person a list of what to pack.  It’s more of a growth experience.  An example: I’ve had the questionable joy of waking up in a rain puddle on many camp-outs.  So I made sleeping in a tent with a cot a priority.  I came up with a way to pack a one-man dome tent and a cot with the least amount of weight.  Cots are heavy, but it sure was nice to sleep ABOVE a puddle or the tree roots.  I made walking poles that became the cot frame.  That saved a tremendous amount of weight.  I adapted my equipment to be able to use a cot so that I could sleep in comfort.

  But later on I decided that the cot and tent were still too heavy and the hiking poles that I made were very noisy when I struck rocks.  Over time I decided to switch to using a hammock and a light weight tarp.  That gave me the option to either sleep up off of the ground, or to set it up like a tent and sleep on the ground.  My hammock weighed 24 oz and my tarp weighed 13 oz compared to my tent that was over three pounds ( plus the cot ).  I could go even lighter and use a large poncho in place of the tarp.  But the poncho/tarp would not fully cover my hammock and once my sleeping/camping arrangement was set up, then running to the privy would be without rain protection.  After my big summer hike I decided to replace my tarp with one that weighed 6 oz more to gain some more rain protection and to have some more freedom ( time ) in how I set up my tarp and hammock.  With the old tarp, the measurements of the tarp were critical, so everything had to be set up perfectly.  For 6 ounces, I have two more feet vertically and horizontally to play with.  That changes everything.

  At the same time my gear for cooking was, and still is, extremely light and Spartan.  All of my cooking equipment, pot, stove, windscreen, utensils all total to less than a pound.  The important point is that when I made the switch to the hammock/tarp, then I was able to go down in pack size.  The new pack weighed 3 pounds less than the old one. When I went down in pack size, then I could switch to a lighter pair of boots.  See, it all compounds.  My list below includes some information next to each item, so that a reader can get a feel for what goes with what and why I selected each item to pack.  I think the best summary to explain gear selection is that each backpacker makes the decision to either be comfortable camping or to be comfortable hiking.

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  The main theme to my packing list is to be prepared for the weather, to be able to sleep well, and to have those comforts at a reasonable level of weight.  My base pack weight ( no food, fuel, water ) was at 18 – 22 pounds.  That included clothes, water filter system, cooking gear, sleeping gear, and a pair of sandals.  I made sure that the water containers are extremely light in weight and collapsible so that I can carry as much water as I think I will need ( up to 10 liters ).  I added sandals to my pack.  Other hikers use Crocs because they weigh so little.  But Crocs aren’t good for hiking.  Just for walking around camp.  I’ve experimented with wearing my sandals while hiking to give my feet some variety.  I replaced my heavy sleeping bag with a much lighter sleeping bag that doubles as a long vest.  That switch alone brought dropped my base pack weight by three pounds.  My gut has been a mess since my first big summer hike.  I filtered my water all summer.  When the water looked more questionable, or when I was in lower elevations, I filtered and chemically treated the water.  Although I’ve twice tested negative for parasites, I’m convinced that I picked up something from the water.  I’ve had the same intestinal problems for two years now.  Someday I will find a doctor that can figure this thing out.  For a little while I tried to use a small and then later a large size Kelly Kettle to boil water - which added two pounds to my pack.  For the past year I’ve been filtering and UV (Steripen ) disinfecting my water.  I replaced my light-weight digital camera with a heavier one that takes better quality pictures.  See, the fine-tuning never ends...

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I heard a saying on the trail that sums this all up:  You either carry stuff to be able to camp in comfort or pack less stuff so that you can hike in comfort.  Everyone has their own interpretation as to what level of stuff that they are willing to carry which will impact the level comfort/pain that they are going to endure while walking.  Each person has to make their own decision as to what to carry and what to leave at home.

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  So far I’ve done nine/ten hikes ( not counting my days in the boy-scouts ) depending how you count them.  The first hike was in the NJ Pine Barrens.  I carried a fully loaded pack for a day to see how I’d handle the weight.  The second was a three day section hike from the Delaware Water Gap up to Culver Lake, NJ in November 2005.  It was a chilly and a very successful hike.  On my next hike, in August 2006, I had my son drop me off where I left off on Rt. 206 at Culver Lake and headed north.  I was carrying way too much water.  I carried 7 liters because I ran out of water during my previous hike.  My left knee hurt like heck.  I hobbled 8 to 9 miles a day, in the rain, for two days.  I had my son pick me up at High Point so that I could re-equip.  I was annoyed that I left my camera at home.  I couldn’t even take pictures of the escarpments that I struggled to climb over.  I very much needed to lighten up my load.  During three zero-days, I shelved the cot, tent, and my large pack.  I switched to a hammock - with mosquito netting and a large light-weight tarp and a much lighter pack.  Those changes saved me around 9 pounds.  Yet I retained the ability to sleep up off of the ground with decent bug and rain protection.  My son brought me back to High Point at night and I started hobbling north again for four more days.  I did around 10 miles per day.  Yeah, the knee was still a mess, but I had an excellent time.  I hiked through tropical storm Ernesto on the last day.  Not the brightest idea, but I learned some more about my gear.  That tallied to 76.3 miles on the Appalachian Trail, plus some other miles hiking.    I hiked in 0 – 10F degree weather for two days in the Smoky Mountains.  ( I was supposed to meet up with a thru-hiker but he dropped off the trail without notifying me. )  I was able to verify that my sleeping bag, self-inflating pad, down jacket, and polartec thermal garmets worked perfectly.

  My longest hike June 30, 2007 to August 19, 2007 was without any doubt my most serious and coolest hike that I’ve done.  I hiked the approach trail to Springer Mountain, Georgia and followed the Appalachian Trail north to Pearisburg, Virginia.  In 51 days I covered over 622 miles and had some amazing experiences.  I got to meet some wonderful people and learn a lot more about myself and hiking.  I learned a lot more about my water usage requirements and how to hike in hot / drought conditions.  I got to hike with some truly fantastic people, but the trail was pretty empty of people because of the time of year and the adverse conditions:  It was a very hot summer with drought conditions.

  My Nov. 8, 2007Nov. 11, 2007 fall hike was a fun hike.  I got to hike with Donna & Jim Miller.  I hiked with this wonderful couple down in Georgia and North Carolina on my summer hike.  It was nice to hike with them again.  We drove down to Pearisburg, VA and got shuttled up 41.2 miles north of there, and we hiked back ( SOBO ).  It was fun to hike in the cold weather again.  Food for thought:  My feet ( especially my toes ) took a beating on this hike.  I replaced my boots with Danner Radical GTX 420 boots.  They are up from a size 11 to a size 12 EE.  My Spenco backpacker insoles fit perfectly in these boots.  I went on another Spring hike with Donna & Jim.  We picked up from where we left off and hiked north for another 80.3 miles.  We hiked from April 19, 2008 to April 26th.  It was a more social hike.  We got to meet quite a few thru-hikers.

  This past summer I did another 51 day hike ( with some zero days – not included in the total ).  I bounced around in sections, but overall completed from Jennings Creek, VA to Bennington, VT.  I skipped over NJ because I had already hiked that section.  So I did another 767.9 miles of the Appalachian Trail.  Once again, this was a more social hike because I was once again hiking with more thru-hikers.  There was also more drinking water on the trail this summer compared to the drought last summer.  Unlike last summer, I purchased a new tent ( with a higher proportion of mosquito netting ) to use in place of the hammock and tarp to deal with the increased number of mosquitoes that I experienced in New York and Connecticut.  I assumed that I would be staying in shelters alone in Virginia, like last year.  My plan was to set this very small tent up in the shelters to have complete mosquito protection.  But only on the first night in Virginia was I alone in a shelter.  My sil-nylon poncho lost its water repellent properties.  I switched to my old tent (because it has more floor space and the summer was ending and getting cooler at night.  I altered my old reliable (and heavier) poncho to double as a rain-fly for the tent.  So I could minimize the pack weight by leaving the rain-fly at home.  It worked out very well.

  As I hike more and more, my gear is being fine tuned; and overall it has gotten lighter although my latest tuning has raised the weight a little bit.  My winter pack base weight ( no food, water ) was down to 22 pounds.  My summer base weight is a little lower.  And these are safe and comfortable weights.  No ultra-light extreme low weights that put myself and others at risk.  You’ll quickly notice that I buy most of my gear from Campmor.  The explanation is simple.  I live very close to their store in Paramus, NJ.

 

Section 1:  Clothing/Equipment that I wear or use everyday:

 

Shorts/Bathing Suit PantsColumbia.  ( Mt. Rodgers Outfitter, Damascus, VA )  I bought these shorts during my last hike because I wanted to wear something lighter in weight that also had a lot of air flow.  I was really looking for a kilt, but this was the best that I could find.  They have an interior mesh liner for underwear, like a bathing suit.  They are fairly light in weight.  The waist cord is a bit of a problem.  It takes a concerted effort to place the pants in the right position so that the waist belt from the pack doesn’t grind the waist cord into my hips.  I’m still looking for a kilt, but every one that I have researched actually weighs more than these shorts.

 

Convertible Pant / Shorts – Columbia Omni-Dry Venture II Convertible Pants 34” * 34” ( Campmor # 40473SAG34, $42.99 less 10% )  These long legged pants are very light in weight and they have removable lower legs so that they can easily become shorts.  They’re an olive green color.  I wanted off-white, but this was available on-sale.  They fit, and that’s what matters.  The shorts portion weighs 364 grams, the leg extensions weigh a total 169 grams.  These are terrific pants.  They can be used all of the time.  Shorts for hiking and then zip on the lower legs to keep back the mosquitoes when cooking dinner.  Towards the end of my long summer hike I decided to use another pair of shorts ( see above ) as my primary clothing and use these pants only in the evenings and in town.  I used the lower legs portions to fold under the waist belt for my pack to cushion my hips.  I lost 9 pounds during the last hike and my hips needed some padding because the thin waist belt on the Gregory Z-pack was grinding into my hips.  These have worked out very well while hiking in chilly weather.  I’d start out with the lower legs attached and then open/close the zippers for the legs to control the airflow.  And of course the lower legs could be removed once I warmed up.  The pair of shorts (described above) work better than these shorts because they fit more loosely and provide much more air-flow.  My mother bought me another pair of pants similar to these from REI.

 

Underwear & t-shirt - 2 setsà I pack one set and wear one set.

 

BriefsTerramar Boxer Briefs ( Campmor #77867, Medium Grey, $12.95, 82 grams )

These are my favorite briefs for hiking in hot weather.  They are light weight, dry quickly, and are not overly warm.  They are 100% Polyester.  I settled into the habit of wearing and “washing” ( rinsing out in a stream ) the same set all of the time and saving the packed set for town.  The shorts listed above have a bathing suit mesh liner.  So I don’t wear the briefs when I’m wearing those shorts.

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Duofold Duo Dri Boxer Brief Campmor #18726 $9.97 ( 104.5 grams each, 95% Polyester. 5% Spandex )  These are more comfortable for winter hiking or as the packed pair for wearing while sleeping at night.

 

Short Sleeve Tee Shirt - Duofold HydroDuct Tee - Campmor #84651 $4.97  161 grams each

They wick away moisture and dry very quickly.  Same story as described above.  I wear one and pack the other.

 

Socks - I tend to wear two pairs at a time regardless of weather conditions.  One pair of Injini toe socks and a normal pair of Thorlo socks.  I pack a matching paired set of socks – bring the total up to four pairs of socks.  Maybe an additional pair of toe socks as well.  I try to avoid using one complete set of socks so that I can wear them when I do laundry in town.  Also, it is comforting to know that there is a clean dry pair of socks available at the end of a day of hiking.

 

Injini Tetratsok Crew Socks ( Large, REI #728375, $14 per pair ) – wear one pair, pack one or two pairs.  These do not dry as quickly as the Thorlo socks – which is why I tend to pack two pairs.  I really like these socks.  They lessen the number and frequency of blisters that I get between my toes.

 

Thorlo Socks Light Blue 83 grams per pair, Thorlo Dark Blue 107.5 grams per pair

As stated above, I tend to wear one pair over my toe socks and pair another pair.  I have found that since I wear these socks as an outer layer they tend to not need to be washed as often.  I’ve also noticed that small sticks, rocks, other debris are less troublesome to my feet when I wear the toe and Thorlo socks together.

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It may seem like over-packing, but you can never be too nice to your feet when hiking.  Switching to dry socks on a regular basis ( a couple of times a day, especially during the first couple hundred miles of a hike ) make for happy feet.  Multiple socks are necessary when breaking in new boots.  It takes walking in a rain storm for several days to really work-in a pair of leather boots.  Extra padding ( socks ) is needed when breaking in boots.  The other reason that I pack so many socks is that it is important to wash and dry out socks frequently to prevent blisters.  Nothing will create blisters faster than wet/dirty socks.  Well, that’s not entirely true.  Cotton socks will destroy your feet faster.  I pack heavy wool socks for winter hiking.

 

Hiking boots – This is a growth topic.  Time and experience has made me change what boots that I wear.

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I started hiking in traditional leather “bird boots.”  These are the type of boots that I hiked in as a teenager.  The tall ankle region saved me from many twisted ankles on my hikes.  I remembered to wear two pairs of socks when I bought my first two pairs of boots.  But I neglected to put heavier / thicker insoles into the boots when I tried them on.  Consequently, my first two pairs of boots fitted me pretty well, but as my feet enlarged with more hiking experience, the boots became too small for my feet.  My feet started out as 10 ½ C and they are now sizes 11 ½ E and 12 E.  ( My left foot is the smaller foot. )

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My first pair of boots were a 10” tall pair from Cabela’s $129.95, each boot weighs approx. 740 grams after two applications of sealant, many days in the rain, and a little over a hundred miles on them and thicker insoles added.  These boots worked out very well when I hiked New Jersey.  They repelled five days worth of rain before they started to soak through in the toe area.  Bird boots have folded seams around the top perimeter of the toe area.  In the rain, water pools in that region and will eventually soak through even with my applications of sealant.  Five days of repelling water is very good performance.  These boots were comfortable.  I came close to selecting them for my long distance summer hike, but I went instead with a shorter / lighter pair.  After my first long distance summer hike, I hiked forty miles in SW Virginia with these boots and I was surprised to find that the ankle portion wasn’t tight enough to prevent my feet from sliding forward on declines.  So as a result, I crunched my toes pretty badly.  I lost two toe-nails on that hike and my joints on my toes sometimes smart since then.  To deal with it at the time, I went to wearing only one pair of socks and trimmed my toe nails as short as I could.  That alleviated much of pain, but not all.  These boots are very comfortable for day to day use.  But I will not hike in them anymore.

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My second pair of 7“ boots was an experiment to see if I could get the same performance ( before my toe crunching hike ) as the 10” pair for less weight.  I bought them at Cabela’s for $169.95.  Each boot weighed 546 grams after sealing them.  They initially fit better ( tighter ) than the 10” pair.  Hindsight says that I should have bought a larger pair.  They are similar to the 10" pair, listed above, just more expensive, prettier, lighter, and initially more comfortable.  The leather on these boots was thinner and the break-in process was shorter and less traumatic.   They have preformed plastic inside the area surrounding the heel and a soft-plastic cushioned region around the top of the boot.  I semi-broken them in and water sealed them with Nikwax before my 630 mile summer hike.  Leather boots never fully break-in until after they have been used in some heavy rains.  This pair hadn’t seen that type of weather before the big hike.  I stuffed a bunch of wet balled up newspaper into the toe area of each boot overnight a few times to expand the toe area.  Then I tried stuffing tennis balls to stretch the leather.  The left boot was a perfect fit.  The right boot needed some more expansion.  They are now fully broken in after all of those miles and rainstorms.  But I am a bit disappointed in these boots.  They have a goretex lining and even after many Nikiwax applications, they still leak in the toe area.  When I got to Hot Springs, I made skirts to put over the boots out of duct tape.  I made grommet holes near the bottom boot lacings so that an additional shoe lace could hold the boot skirts in place - sort of a raincoat for the boots.  They were awkward to use, but I think that they helped keep my toes dry.  After all of those miles they fit me very well.  The bottom of the boots were thin, so the balls of my feet took a pounding, especially in SW Virginia.  I found my old Spenco Backpacker insoles and tried to use them in the 7” boots, but there’s not enough room for my feet.

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Both sets of boots are made from kangaroo leather and are pretty light considering what they are.  They are far lighter compared to similar boots made a few years ago.  When I hiked this summer, I left the 10” boots with my mother in a  labeled shipping box to be mailed to one of the mail-drops on the AT if I need a replacement.  The idea is to have a set ready to go and not have to break-in a pair in the middle of the hike.

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3/15/2008 – bought a pair of Danner Radical 452 GTX Hikers ( size 12 EE, $139.95, 45 oz, Cabelas )

Although I like my leather boots, my feet got bigger after the summer hike.  I started out with 10 ½ size feet, and I wore size 11 boots.  My left foot is now a size 11 ½ E and my right foot is now a 12E.  I took my time picking out these boots.  I made sure that I wore two pairs of socks and put the Spenco backpacker insoles into the boots and tried them out on the showroom floor.  I took advantage of the simulated incline, complete with rocks, in the shoe sales dept.  These are my first pair of hiking “boots” that are not traditional leather.  They basically look like taller and heavier running shoes.  After hiking in them all summer I can attest that they provided more protection for the balls of my feet on the rocks of Pennsylvania and that my toes no longer get crunched on the down-hills.  They have a goretex lining, but I’m less interested in water-proofing - which is a good thing because they are not in any sense water-proof.

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Shoes – New Balance 907 – I was given the advice from “EZ-DOES-IT” ( Michael ) to buy these shoes.  His advice was sound and sincere.  I am seriously considering it.

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Bandana – I carry four or five of these on my hikes.  I wear one on my head or sometimes I wear a baseball cap to keep my bald head from getting sun-burnt and to keep the deer flies off of my head.  I fold two of them and place one under each shoulder strap/pad (from the pack) for added padding and to keep my sweat from soaking the shoulder pads resulting in stinky shoulder straps/pads.  Bandanas are easy to wash.  The shoulder strap/pads are not.  I also tie one to the left side of my pants to use as a hand-wipe or to put between my butt and whatever I was going to sit on ( to lessen the seat-mark on my pants ).  I used the standard 31 gram cotton bandanas that you can buy just about anywhere.  My favorite ones are red, green, blue, and hunter-orange.  They are much lighter than a baseball hat and the bandana keeps the sweat from dripping into my eyes.  They make decent pot holders when handling hot pots.  And they make a decent rag to wash myself with.  They are the only items in my complete gear list that are made out of cotton.  I experimented with larger ones that my wife stitched for me.  I added the letters “HIKER TO TOWN” and “HIKER TO TRAIL” in 3” letters on each.  The ink ran, and they burned easily when handling hot pots, so I threw them out.  The shoulder straps to my Kelty pack are wider and more comfortable than the straps to my Gregory Z-Pack.  So if I use the Kelty pack, then I only need a couple of bandanas.  I like to put one bandana around my alcohol burner so it doesn’t rattle in the pot that I keep it in.  One important thing that I learned on my summer hike was to keep one specific bandana separate to wash my feet with.  Feet need to be washed, but the odor on the bandana never goes away.  Use it, wash / rinse it and tie it to the outside of the pack and certainly do not use it for a head covering!  I bought an ugly purple and another pink bandana for this use.  If I could find one with hazardous waste symbols on it, I’d buy it too.

 

Equipment ( kept on outside of pack ):

Hiking Poles ( 1 or 2 ) – I replaced the two bamboo poles with Swissgear poles from Walmart, $11 each.  Prices vary from store to store.  I’ve seen them as cheap as $9.89 each and $14.85 a pair.   I didn’t want to use aluminum poles.  I like my homemade bamboo poles.  But I decided to use these because they are collapsible and cheap.  That worked out better for transport to Georgia and for short rides I got from day hikers.  I retired the aluminum ( cot frame ) poles that I was using because I gave up on trying to use a cot ( too heavy ) and the poles clanked so loudly against rocks that my already ringing ears were screaming.  Poles are very useful for steadying oneself.  They saved me from many stumbles and twisted ankles when walking among the rocks of northern NJ.  And they saved me from many falls when walking downhill with worn boots ( very little tread ) in SW Virginia.  Walmart started selling them with cork handles instead of solid plastic ones, but they switched back to the solid black plastic handles.  This is a good thing since the cork handles fell apart quickly.  I wore out my first pair after 1000 miles.  So I have another pair now.

 

Sandals - to walk in water and around camp after hiking.  351 grams each, 12.4 oz   I’ve left these at home in the past to cut down on weight.  But they are absolutely necessary if you need to ford a river ( to avoid the pain of rocks and the danger of fish hooks and broken glass ).  I learned this from my canoeing days. Old sneakers are a good substitute, but in backpacking every ounce counts.  My dog ate my new expensive Columbia brand pair.  I replaced them.  Yeah, the dog should have been replaced too.  No, not really; she’s a keeper.  It’s easy to get blisters from having damp feet.  I used the sandals on my big summer hike to give my feet a breather once in a while.  The longest hike in them was 10.5 miles.  I sent them home after a few hundred miles because my food load on that pickup was pretty large; something had to go.  I met a couple of hikers that hiked exclusively in sandals.  That’s something to think about.  There are a bit weighty to pack, but it’s real nice to wear sandals after hiking all day.  MANY hikers have a pair of Crocs tied to the outside of their packs.  They wear them around camp at the end of each day.  They are much lighter than sandals.

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I walked with a thru-hiker together through the “Roller-Coaster” in Virginia and most of Pennsylvania.  He was wearing a pair of Chaco sandals for all of his thru-hike.  So after I reached the Delaware Water Gap, I ordered a pair and tried using them for my hike through northern CT, MA and into VT.  They didn’t work out so well because my feet were not conditioned for them.  I quickly developed a huge blister just forward of my left heel.  I had them along with my boots.  I didn’t want to rely solely on an untried pair of sandals.  Consequently, they were a burden.  They are too heavy to carry as a second pair of footwear.  So I sent them home.

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Section 2:  Alternate Clothing ( normally packed )

Gaiters – I’ve tried three different versions, all from Outdoor Research.

I started wearing gaiters in an attempt to cut down on ticks and wet feet.  I never experienced so many ticks as when I walked a hike in the NJ Pine Barrens.  Unfortunately, one got through, so I spent three weeks on antibiotics.  Wonderful... 

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Outdoor Research Celestial Gaiters #12360 BLK XL ( 10 – 13 ) 6.1 oz. - $24.97

This pair is my favorite.  They are a good balance between function and weight.  They are as tall as the Crocodiles, but made of lighter material.

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Note:  In rainstorms I tie a nylon rope to the top of one gaiter, snake the rope up one leg of my shorts, then through the belt loops and then down the other leg and tie the rope to the top of the other gaiter to hold the gaiters up while I hike in the rain.  This system looks stupid but works very well.  The rain from the poncho drips onto the gaiters instead of onto my leg above the gaiter – and then running down the leg into the boots.

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Outdoor Research Crocodiles Gore-Tex Campmor #17267 XL ( 10 - 13 ) 10 oz - $46.99

These gaiters were my first pair and the most successful.  I’ve used these on many trips on the motorcycle in the rain and on my three, six, and the later part of my 51 day hikes.  I applied Deet to them for the hikes.  No water, no ticks.  I used them during many days of rain.  I was wearing a poncho and shorts.  The gaiters kept the rain that was dripping down from the poncho from getting into my boots from above.  I tried using a shorter pair, but they proved to be ineffective.  I have since replaced this pair with a pair that is of similar size, but lighter. Although these gaiters are heavy, I’m keeping them.

 

Neos Overboots – These are new items that I’ve only field tested in light rain.  ( They’re not worth using in light rain. )  The goal is to be able to walk with dry feet in the pouring rain.  I purchased two pairs from Barre Army-Navy store in Vermont.  They were 40% off, so I bought two different heights.  One pair for hiking, the other for riding my motorcycle.  The size XXL fit my 12EE boots perfectly.

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Neos Voyager – Size XXL, 16.9 oz. each, approx $40.  These are the shorted ones.  I’d have to wear gaiters over these for them to be effective.  This raises their weight to the point where they will stay home.

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Neos Adventurer – Size XXL, 17.6 oz. each, approx $40.  These are as tall as both of my sets of gaiters.  The upper material is a little bit stiffer than my gaiters, so maybe I can use these without adding the garter style ropes that I use on my gaiters to keep them held up and more importantly – I can leave the gaiters at home.

 

Poncho (3) – I use one at a time - one for each pack size and another that is lighter

Ponchos are great in terms of weight and airflow.  Rain jackets are terrific in heavy downpours, but will soak you in sweat when you are hiking.  Ponchos are a great compromise - IF - you bother to add some grommets to tie it up better in windy weather.  If you don’t, you’ll be sorry.  Ponchos will blow around in the wind, especially if you use one that is too big.  That’s why I have several sizes; one for each pack and my latest light-weight one.  They can also be used as a tarp.  Camping out under a tarp in a light rain is a pleasant experience.

 

Campmor #20275 ( 58” * 104”, 8.5 oz )  Sil-Nylon, very light weight.  I added some grommets around the perimeter of all of my ponchos.  This light-weight one let some water through in heavy rain, not much.  I sealed the seams and that eliminated 99.9% of the water.  Some surface water got on my pack – it amounted to almost nothing.  I also used it to extend the length of my tarp ( over my hammock ).  It worked perfectly.

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After 800 or so miles, this poncho lost its water repellent properties.  I have replaced it with the shorter model.

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Campmor Cascade II, #94339BLU ( Storm Long Backpacker Poncho Style # 9031, Red Ledge )

52” * 118”  This poncho worked out very well with the large Shasta pack.  But it blew around too much when I used it with the much smaller Z-Pack.  I added some snaps to the edges to cut down on this problem.  But this was a learning experience.  The poncho has to be a reasonable size when compared to the backpack.  I have since sewed on straps to it to make it serve a dual role of a rain-fly on my Eureka backcountry-1 tent.  It has worked out very well as both a poncho and a rain-fly.  It’s a keeper.

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Campmor #90027 ( discontinued model, blue, long, approx 49” * 104”, weighs 370.4 grams ) – This is my favorite, oldest, and smallest poncho.  I use it when I use the Gregory Z-Pack.  I added grommets around the edges at 12” intervals which gives me the option of tying it up during windy weather or using it as a second tarp over a tent.  I used it for two nights as a windbreak over my tent in cold and windy weather.  It worked out very well.  All in all, this poncho has proved itself to be one of the most useful things that I bring with me hiking or on my motorcycle trips.  * I have replaced this poncho with a sil-nylon one that weighs half as much ( see above ).

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Stuff Sack #1 - Blue - Outdoor Research #2, waterproof, 7"*13", 500 cu. in., 2.3 oz

Long Sleeve Shirt – “Dickies” gray or brown workshirt.  I got them on sale at Walmart.  They are a polyester / cotton blend.  They are very comfortable and dry quickly.  I used to pack a quilted flannel shirt.  I’m packing this instead and added a polyester pullover for warmth.  375 grams.  It’s heavy enough to provide a layer of warmth.  Light enough to be worn in hot weather, and is presentable to wear in town.  And most important, it’s a layer to keep the bugs off of me in the evening.

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Pant legs from convertible pants – Columbia Omni-Dry Venture II Convertible Pants legs.

I now tend to wear the shorts and pant legs only at night (for bug protection) or in town.  I try to avoid wearing and soiling these on the trail.  Towards the end of my last hike, I lost some weight and the waist belt from the pack started to hurt my hips.  I used these to pad the hip area.  It worked out very well.

 

Underwear & t-shirt - 2 setsà pack one set and wear one set..

Briefs – see description – clothes that I wear everyday.

Short Sleeve Tee Shirt - see description – clothes that I wear everyday.

 

Red Ledge Reverse Layer Microfleece Zip-Tee Campmor #56480, Medium, $29.99, 297grams

I bought this to replace the Polyester Pullover, or to use as an additional layer.  It’s lighter and tighter fitting.

 

Marmot Polartec Powerstretch pants – ( Campmor #12572-BLK-L, $29.97,  234 grams)

These are very warm long underwear and feel very light.  These are excellent to wear while sleeping on cold nights.

 

Manzella Polypropylene Fleece Gloves – ( Campmor #92853, Black, $8.99,  46 grams per pair)

I used wool socks as gloves on my last cold weather hike to save weight.  I picked up these gloves after that.

 

Socks – Refer to description in what I wear listed above.

Injini Tetratsok Crew Socks ( Large, REI #728375 ) – wear one pair, pack one pair

Thorlo Light Blue 83 grams per pair – wear one pair, pack one pair

Thorlo Dark Blue 107.5 grams per pair – I haven’t decided if I’m packing these.  The decision has more to do with the condition of my boots/footwear when I start out on a hike.

 

thick wool socks - 2 pairs ( having cold feet is not fun )

 

Warm hat – I always pack a light weight balaclava which I wear mostly while sleeping.  Sometimes I use a hunter-blaze-orange hat too.  Odds are if I need a warm hat, I’ll probably be hiking in hunting season.  My grey hat weighs 100.5g  My red hat weighs 98.3 grams.  I wore two thinner hats on my last winter hike.  I liked the ability to wear none, one, or two according to my body temperature.

 

Big Items ( Pack, Sleeping Gear ):

Backpack – Kelty Trekker 3950 External Frame Pack - Campmor #60681 3950 cu. in.  5 lbs, 3 oz, $109.99.

  I appreciate this pack design more and more as time goes on.  I used external frame packs when I was a kid, totally gave up on packs as a canoeist.  When I started hiking in my forties I started out with internal frames.  Internal frame packs dominate the market.  After two internal frame packs, I tried out this external frame design as an experiment.  Initially, I wasn’t thrilled with the pack design.  The bag is heavy for its size.  It took me a hundred and fifty miles or so to adjust the frame to my torso and to figure out how to distribute the weight in the pack and on the frame properly.  By the time I figured out how to use the pack properly, I became frustrated with it and reverted back to my internal frame Gregory Z-pack on my first long summer hike.  But after lots of miles of experimentation, I’ve concluded that the Kelty Trekker is the most comfortable pack that I’ve used.  It’s not the lightest, but it’s the most comfortable to wear.  The ultra-light crowd will disagree, but it’s worth the extra weight to be comfortable.

  It’s funny, people ( including me ) will buy a pack first and then buy the rest of their gear.  The pack is the most prominent gear item, but it’s the one that is most affected by other gear selections.  So as my gear list gets trimmed, so has my needed pack size.  So over time, I have a collection of packs.  In the order that I purchased them, I have:  Gregory Shasta ( large model – 5500 cu. in., 6 lbs. 5 oz. ); Gregory Z-pack ( older style, large -  39950 cu. in., 3 lbs. 5 oz. ) and the Kelty Trekker ( 3950 cu. in., 5 lbs., 3 oz. )  You’ll notice the large size to start off with.  The smallest/lightest one was a desperate effort to reduce weight.  The Trekker - same size, but increased in weight to be more comfortable.

  I decided to try out this external frame pack on my previous, long summer hike.  The idea was to strap my food bag to the frame, outside of my pack.  I noticed on previous hikes that although my food was sealed up and in a stuff sack, my internal frame pack wreaked of food.  That meant that hanging up my food bag at night and keeping my pack near me was pointless, from a safety point of view.  The experiment was a good learning experience.  The open frame region below the pack where I tied down the food bag is meant for light weight items.  Attaching heavy items to that region hurt my back.  After 100 miles, I decided that although I liked the frame, straps, and belts; I really didn’t like the pack.  I bought four O.R. stuff sacks and strapped them to the frame and sent the pack home.  That allowed me to place the weight exactly where I wanted it to go.  I tied a small rectangular fishnet back to the center of the frame to hold the water.  I was satisfied with the comfort and weight distribution, but not the time required to strap everything in place.  I switched to my Z-Pack and spent the remaining 500 miles of my long summer hike enduring the thinner straps of the Z-Pack grinding into my body and thinking about how to stitch my own pack using the excellent Kelty frame and using the model of how I strapped the stuff sacks in place earlier.  Many miles passed with these thoughts bouncing through my mind.

  On all of my subsequent hikes I’ve used the Kelty.  On some hikes I moved the pack down on the frame, on others I moved it back up again.  I strapped the heavy items { tent and food bag } to the frame above the pack and strapped the lightest / bulky item – the blue foam pad to the frame below the pack.  It worked out perfectly.

 

Hip-belt for Kelty Trekker 3950 External Frame Pack Kelty, $52

I ordered a 28” hip belt ( size #2 ) to replace the 34” ( size #3 ) that came with the backpack.  Like the Z-Pack, the standard ( 34” ) hip belt fits fine now, but it becomes a problem as I drop weight on a long hike.  $52 is a bit steep when you consider that the pack only cost $109.99.  It’s extremely important to have a pack fit correctly.

 

Sleeping Bag – I have three different sleeping bags.  Two are approximately the same weight, 35 oz.  The lightest -laFuma 600, whicch weighs 23 ounces.  My warmest sleeping bag is a Feathered Friends Winter Wren ( 20F, Long, 35 oz, $360 ).  It has a short center zipper, a draw string opening at the foot and two short zippers at the side for arms to pass through - allowing it to double as a jacket.  It was without any doubt the best and most expensive gear purchase that I’ve made.  I’ve slept in it in 0 – 10 F temperatures in the Mollies Ridge Shelter in the Smoky Mountains.  I wore my Marmot insulated pants, shirt, and down jacket, and I was warm, even with my self-inflating pad ( not inflated ).  This bag was perfect at 5000+ feet this summer.  It was a bit too warm at lower elevations.  It lost some of its loft during the summer hike, but after washing it; I think that it has regained all of its loft.  On my last hike this past fall, it kept me toasty warm on some very chilly nights.

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To deal with its excessive warmth that summer, I started researching materials to make a quilt.  After a lot of searching, I found that the Speer Hammocks FrogSac was pretty close to what I wanted to make, so I ordered one.  It weighs 30 oz and is a bit larger than what I think that I need.  It had the synthetic insulation that I wanted and I thought that it had the temperature rating ( 45F ) that I was looking for.  It arrived with a 50F label.  I tested it out in my living room and it wasn’t quite warm enough.  So I ordered 6 oz of 900+ down from Speer Hammocks.  I cut arm holes into the bag and I stuffed 5 oz of down into the exterior portion of the bag.  The idea is to keep the synthetic insulation near my body in case the bag gets wet.  I stitched in zippers into the arm holes that I made.  This duplicates the function of the Winter Wren bag described above, but it’s not as warm.

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This past summer I carried the FrogSac for much of the hike and eventually mailed it home because I rarely used it.  Big mistake!  As soon as I mailed it home, the temperature dropped.  Of course!  I hiked on for a couple of days in the cold and in desperation I bought a very light weight down sleeping bag.  A laFuma 600.  It weighs a little less than a pound and a half – which is it’s best feature.  It kept me warm, but the nylon material doesn’t breathe as well as the other two bags.  Not so badly that it caused me to sweat like the cheap Eddie Bauer bag that I bought a couple of years ago – which I promptly threw out.  So this bag it what I will start out with next summer.  I’ll switch to one of the other two as I head north and into higher elevations.

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I retired the Marmot Trestles bag ( 15F ).  It’s heavy and I wasn’t warm enough in it.  It’s loft was questionable when I bought it and the loft vanished in a very short time period ( without laundering or compressing it ).  I will never buy another Marmot bag. 

 

Sleeping Bag Liner - Cocoon 100% Silk Mummy Liner ( Campmor #45914 ) .  4.7oz.  It is advertised to add 9.5F to the temperature rating of the sleeping bag.  I like using liners because I can then unzip my sleeping bag and still have a barrier between me and the mosquitoes.  Plus they save me from getting the sleeping bag dirty from the inside.  A mouse ate through the foot area.  It was easy to stitch it closed.  After 1000 miles it lost its silky feel, but it’s still functional.

 

Therm-a-Rest Pro-lite 4 Short Pad – ( #47735, $75.97, 20”*47”*1.5”, 17 oz  )

Although I liked and used the Pro-lite 3 Short pad for all of the previous summer, I switched to the Pro-lite 4 for the added comfort – thickness.  The extra 4 ounces for the additional padding between my hips and whatever I am sleeping on is worth it.  I stuck with the short pad size because even though I am 6’ 3” tall, I have no need for a full length pad.

 

Therm-a-Rest Pro-lite 3 Short Pad – ( #47719, $69.95, 20”*47”*1”, 13 oz  )

I replaced my foam pad with this very expensive pad to save packing space.  I like this pad, but it takes a very long time to self-inflate in cold weather.  I opted for the short length pad to save weight.  The extra weight and thickness of a full-length #4 pad seemed extravagant.  I found that using this in my hammock during the summer worked perfectly.  Just the right size and there were some chilly nights where the insulation to my back was appreciated.  I also used the pad in conjunction with a traditional blue foam pad during my last cold weather hike.  I was toasty warm all night during the three nights out.

 

Stuff SackTherm-a-Rest Prolite 3 Short Stuff Sack ( #47743, $12.95, 0.7 oz )

This stuff sack works well with either the #3 or the #4 models.

 

Hammock - Mosquito Free Hammock Bliss ( Campmor #67888 ) - 24 oz, $49.95 - Campmor # 67888

When I decided to retire my tent and cot, I switched to using this and a large rectangular tarp.  I had to cut down on the weight.  This decision saved at least 2 pounds.  My only complaint is that the mosquito netting is a bit tight causing it to rip and then one of the two zippers became impossible to use.  It’s still functional.

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I have since alternated between using tents and the hammock and tarp.  I have also replaced this hammock with the No-See-Um model.  The mosquito netting was fine.  I only upgraded because of the broken zipper.

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Tarp10’ * 12’Campmor #20070 ( Equinox # UBG310 ) – 18.8 oz. $84.99,  actual measurements are an inch or so less in each dimension.  I bought this tarp to make up for the minor deficiencies of my previous tarp.  I’ve tested it out and the dimensions are perfect.  Unfortunately, the weight is a little high.  My other tarp was a little short in length and width.  I had to hang my poncho or my rain-kilt over one end of the tarp to augment it to a length long enough to fully cover the hammock.  It’s width ( or height ) was adequate, but if I hung the hammock with less tension, then the tarp would be slightly short.  By increasing the dimensions by two feet by both the length and width, it allows me more freedom in how I hang my hammock in the future.  The nice thing about tarps is that they are very light in weight and you have a tremendous amount of freedom in how you use it.  You can make some interesting tent designs out of a tarp.

 

Tree Straps - Hammock Bliss Tree Straps ( Campmor #67903 ) ( 2 pairs ) 2.5 oz / 82.2 grams per pair $5.99 per pair.  I pack two pairs; one for the tarp, the other for the hammock.  Hanging the hammock with these is a snap, and it lessens damage to the trees.  No slipping and sets up real fast; definitely the way to go.  I’m going to make another pair of tree straps that are thinner, but twice as long so that I can tie them around larger trees.  I left a pair of tree straps at the campground in Hot Springs, NC.  So I used compression straps instead for the rest of my hike.  I was a little leery at first, because the buckles were small and made out of plastic.  But they worked very well.  Maybe this is the way to go.  Use the straps for compression during the day and to hang my hammock at night – dual use.  I went to Walmart and bought some ¾” long polysomething strap material.  I made extra long ones ( 9 feet ).  These tie better around large trees and still weigh comparable to the other tree straps.

 

Tent - Eureka “Backcountry 1" Campmor #23890 - 3 lbs. 14 oz., $98

I use this tent when the temperature dips and I decide to leave the hammock and tarp at home.  It’s a good solid three-season tent.  It has a good balance of thick flooring and sides, a smallish rain fly, and an adequate amount of mosquito netting and ventilation.  It’s a little longer than I need ( 8’ 3” ), but it just fits me ( 6’ 3” ) and my pack at my feet.  I’ve set it up in shelters in cold weather.  It’s narrow enough so that others are not offended if I set it up in a shelter, but a little too long, so it hangs a little bit beyond the edge of most sleeping platforms.  I have altered one of my ponchos to use in place of the rain-fly to make this tent “lighter.”  The system is a winner.

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MSR Hubba Tent – 2008 ( Campmor # 27369, 2 lbs, 12 oz., $229.97 )

I used this tent for NY, CT, and the top of VA, and the rest of Pa this summer.

I purchased it because of its light weight and the massive amount of mosquito netting area.  I was looking for a tent that I wouldn’t roast in and be able to be protected from the mosquitoes.  I was also looking for something small enough to fit in a shelter.  It met those needs.  Although it kept me dry in some pretty heavy rain-storms, I am not at all pleased with the rain-fly and pole design.  The single pole design makes for very little breathing at the top.  Consequently, I would wake up n the morning soaked from my own snores.  I quickly learned to unzip the very top of the rain-fly and poke an open thru-hiker’s guide to prop it open at the top.  This eliminated the worst of the condensation.  The other problem with this tent is that it is too small to store your pack in at night.  If I was younger and didn’t suffer from leg-cramps at night, then I could sleep around my pack in the tent.  But that’s not my reality.  If anyone wants to buy this tent, it’s theirs.  I went back to using the Backcountry-1 tent.  It’s a much better design, and cheaper too.  Note: staking out the rain-fly on this tent made no improvement on my condensation issue.

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I own several Eureka dome Tents.  A two-man version that was on sale at Campmor ( I don’t remember the model ), two large 4-man tents ( I misplaced one, replaced it, and then found the missing tent. )  I’ve used the two-man tent on a cross country motorcycle trip.  The 4-man tents on canoe trips with my daughter.  It’s nice to be able to stand up in the 4-man tents.  I’ve settled into using the Backcountry-1 and my hammock for almost all events.  Both pack very small.  On my motorcycle trips I pack both.  I found the hammock to be lighter and more useful.  You can hang a hammock over rocks, on hillsides, and above potential water puddles.  All you need is two trees.  I use the tent on motorcycle trips.  I pack the hammock too because some rest stops out west had signs that said “no camping.”  Maybe if I sleep in a hammock it’ll be a gray enough distinction to avoid a ticket.  If I travel to a motorcycle rally they are often held at county fairgrounds.  So there are no trees to hang a hammock.  And if I go to one of these events, then I might want the additional space in my tent.  So I’ll use any of my tents depending upon my mood when I pack.

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I decided to add straps / clip fasteners to the corners of my poncho to use it in place of the rain fly on my Backcountry-1 tent.  I should be able to save a pound by using the poncho in place of the rain-fly.

 

Stakes MSR 7.5” Groundhog Stakes ( Campmor # 31203, 8-pack, $19.95 )  Each stake weighs 0.6 oz each.  I I pack one of them.  I switched to this item because I can use one to dig a cat-hole instead of packing a shovel. I haven’t staked down a dome tent in YEARS.  So I’m not used to packing stakes.  I found that I never staked my tarp during my hike.  Instead I tied it down to branches, rocks, logs, etc.

 

Stakes Campmor aluminum tent stakes 6” ( Campmor # 28881, 4-pack, $2.99 )  Each stake weighs 0.5 oz.  I pack two of these.  They are round, so they don’t hold the tarp in place as well as the stakes listed above.  But I use them as grates for my windscreen to hold my pot up while cooking and if needed, for the tarp.

 

Stuff Sack #5 - Blue - Outdoor Research #2, waterproof, 7"*13", 500 cu. in., 2.3 oz

Light weight down jacket – This is an excellent match up with my Winter Wren sleeping bag.  I bought this down jacket because it packs very small, it is light in weight and was on sale at Cabela’s.  It weighs approx 680 grams and it is very warm.  I used it for one day of hiking in very cold weather.  And I used it as a layer in my sleeping bag in 0 – 10F temperatures.  The system worked perfectly.  I was packing nylon shell / fleece jackets.  They can take a lot of punishment.  First I was using my All Bergen Appliance jacket, then switched to my new Newton Braves jacket ( approx 950 grams ).  I no longer use these jackets for hiking because the down jacket is such a better option for hiking and sleeping.  Note; the light weight down jacket is very susceptible to fire damage.  While tending a wood fire a spark must have landed on the jacket and it burned a substantial hole in it.  I patched it up with some silicone sealant.

 

Cooking Gear:

 

Alcohol Stoves - ( look at the deleted items at the end of this document for other stoves that I’ve used )

 

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In short, I pack the Trangia burner and sometimes in cold weather one Pepsi-Can Stove.

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These alcohol stoves are not as fancy as the white gas stoves that I used to use.  There is no pressurized fuel container or control valves, so you can’t adjust the flame size much ( see Trangia burner below ).  They pretty much are either on or off.  You can only extinguish the flame by either waiting for the fuel to be used up or to cover it up with a metal object to smother the flame.  But these things are nearly weightless and they need no maintenance.  They are so light, it would be silly not to try one of these out.  If the fuel is cold then they are a pain to light.  So I’ve slept with the fuel bottle in my sleeping bag at night to keep the fuel warm.  All alcohol stoves require a wind break and are not as hot as the white gas stoves that I have used.  They all burn 70% ethyl alcohol well.  Ethyl alcohol burns clean.  70% isopropyl alcohol burns a little sooty with a tolerable odor with less heat than Ethyl alcohol, but the odor will drive off a significant proportion of neighboring mosquitoes.  Don’t use the orange or green scented alcohols, they stink!!!  91% isopropyl alcohol burns with a huge yellow flame and will be very sooty, but you can water it down.  Fuel is easy to obtain since both ethyl and isopropyl alcohol are available just about everywhere.  They often come in handy small recyclable plastic containers.  An added bonus is the lack of smell.  These stoves burn cleanly and if you accidentally spill the fuel, it evaporates and you don’t smell any worse than you did before the spill.  The fuel itself doubles as a disinfectant.  Methanol burns very hot, maybe comparable to white-gas stoves.  It’s available in hardware or auto parts stores as a gas-line anti-freeze in a yellow container under the brand name of “HEET.”  ( Don’t buy the red container version. )

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I have used three types of these stoves.  The commercially made Trangia, the homemade Pepsi-Can Stove, and the homemade Penny-Stove ( see semi-retired items listed towards the end of this document ).  I favor the Trangia, because of its ease of use.  It’s the only one that stores its own fuel.  Just unscrew the cap and light it up.  The simmer lid works, but the burner is heavy compared to the others ( 111grams ).  The others weigh 15 or less grams.  The Pepsi-Can stove burns the hottest and the Penny Stove takes the longest to warm up and get going.  Otherwise the penny stove heats up just fine.  I pack the Trangia and a Pepsi-Can Stove since the homemade stove weigh almost nothing and that gives me the option of two heat levels. Read about all of these stoves below.

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Trangia Spirit Stove - This is a brass burner that has the ability to store fuel in it. Between the brass and the extra mass to store fuel, this is obviously going to be heavier than the homemade soda can stoves.  But this stove works so well that I continue to use it.  It’s fairly light-weight, non-pressurized, very fuel efficient alcohol stove.  It burns 70% ethyl really well.  The fuel has to be warm.  So in cold weather I sleep with the sealed up burner in my sleeping bag, or tuck it into my pants pocket during the day.  Otherwise in cold weather it is next to impossible to light.  I bought the “Spirit model” which is the basic stove burner with a steel base.  Throw the base out.  It’s heavy ( 190 grams, 6.7 oz ) and worthless.  But the burner is fine ( 111 grams, 3.5 oz - 87.7 grams without the simmer ring ).  It is not available in Campmor or EMS.   The company I purchased it from is not longer in business.  They used to sell just the burner for $12 ( I should have bought that ).  Compared to the Pepsi-Can stoves or the Penny-Stove it is very heavy.  But it does have a decent simmer cap and a sealing cap so you can store fuel in it.  If you look really hard on the internet it is possible to find dealers that will sell only the burner, but most will list that as being out of stock.  If I had to do it all over again I would buy the Mini-Trangia ( Trangia 28 ).  It comes with a wind screen ( essential ) and a couple of pots.  I made my own windscreen and I have already tested out various titanium pots, so I’m already past that purchase.  * I found that using HEET ( an additive for gasoline ) provides a very hot flame, but it shrank the o-ring in the burner cap.

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Pepsi-Can Stove - I’ve made eight Pepsi-Can Stoves. The first on was 15.2 grams.   They are lighter, simpler versions of the Trangia stove.  You can make one out of the bottom halves of two Pepsi Cans.  All you need is a pair of scissors, a push-pin or a 1/16" drill, utility knife, one sheet of paper, ruler, JB Weld - an epoxy that you can get in any hardware or auto supply store.

  I used the directions that I found at http://www.pcthiker.com/pages/gear/pepsistove.shtml, but I noticed on March 9, 2008 that the site is down.  This is unfortunate because the directions were very good, with lots of pictures.  I neglected to make a copy of the website to a pdf file.  That was a mistake.  So I lost the directions.  But I did find “my stove factory” - all of the stoves in various stages of construction, including the three critical strips of paper that I would wrap around a can to cut it to length properly.  The top piece with the large center hole and 16 – 24 one sixteenth inch jets is 7/8” tall.  The center wall, which is a rectangular overlapping strip of aluminum is 1-3/8” tall.  The bottom is 1-1/8” tall.  It is best to make the stoves out of Pepsi products because the lip at the bottom-most portion to the can is more pronounced than other cans.  A Guinness Draught 14.9 oz can has a slightly smaller diameter than a Pepsi product can, so it is easier to insert the top and bottom portions together if one portion is made from a Pepsi product and the other from a Guiness Stout can.

  These stoves light easier and burn hotter than the Trangia stove.  So in cold weather they worked out to be a better option.  Since they weigh next to nothing, I packed both the Trangia and a Pepsi-Can stove.  The prettier stoves that I made were made out of Mountain Dew 12 oz cans ( for the top half ) and Guinness Draught 14.9 oz cans ( for the bottom half ).  The ones that I made entirely from Mountain Dew cans were just as effective, just not as pretty.  I made one with aluminum flashing for a heavy center wall.  It didn’t work any better.  All were made in the same dimensions.  I used a 1/16" drill to make the burner holes (16 - 24).  More or less holes made the stove less effective.  I made one stove from Dr. Thunder cans that didn’t work at all.  The shape of the bottom of the can made it line up in a way that made the final dimensions all wrong.  I found that when using isopropyl alcohol the Pepsi-Can stoves were much easier to light than the Trangia stove.  The Trangia stove burns with a much smaller almost solid blue flame.  The soda can stoves have a much larger and more yellow flame.  So I use the Pepsi-Can stove when I want to heat up something large or to heat something quickly.

  I think the extended sides of the penny-stove ( the sides extend a little bit above the burner holes ) make the stove burn more effectively when it is cold.  So I experimented by assembling a couple of Pepsi can stoves with a bottom cut to 1 3/8” instead of 1 1/8”.  This created a ridge that is approximately 1/16” higher than the rest of the can.  I made a simmer ring that looks like a big letter “O” that can be tossed onto the top of the stove.  The ridge keeps it in place.  It heats up to efficient burn ( all burner jets working ) 30 seconds faster than a normal Pepsi-Can Stove.  It used fuel at the same rate.  Instead of using a Guinness Draught can with a Pepsi can for a nice fit, I expanded the lower section by fitting it onto a full Pepsi can and rotating it until it expanded.  It took me a year to think of this.  I like this design.  It weighs 17 grams compared to 111 grams of my Trangia burner.

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Ethyl or Isopropyl alcohol - 70% work fine.  The bottle that it comes in is a perfect storage container.  Just make sure that its packed right side up in case it leaks.  Been there, done that.  Don’t buy the green or orange scented versions of alcohol.  They reek when lit!  Ethyl burns much hotter and cleaner than isopropyl alcohol.  91% isopropyl alcohol burns with huge yellow flames – unpractical but it can be watered down.  Isopropyl doesn’t burn as cleanly as the other two alcohols listed.  A slight soot residue will be left behind on a cooking pot.  But isopropyl alcohol does chase away the mosquitoes a bit.  So that’s a plus.

 

HEET – This is 100% methanol, sold in small yellow containers in auto parts stores.  It burns very hot and evaporates very quickly.  It turns a low calorie output alcohol stove into a fire breathing dragon.  I’ve scorced pots using this stuff in place of my normal 70% ethyl alcohol.  I haven’t used this stuff in the winter, but I will pack it in cold weather camping.  The major drawback to using this stuff is that it will shrink the cap seal on my brass trangia burner.  So I will only use this with my pepsi-can stove.  Avoid buying HEET in the red bottles.  I’ve been told that that version has additives that are not conducive to cooking.

 

Windscreen ( for the stove ) - Is a must with these alcohol stoves.  If you don’t have a windscreen, you are going to eat cold food.  It’s that simple.  I made a third windscreen ( 49 grams ).  This one uses what I’ve learned from the previous two windscreens.  It’s a endless cylinder - like the first version.  But it’s not riveted together into a permanent right cylinder like the first version.  It’s in two pieces, sort of like the second version.  I added two sets of snaps to the ends of the bottom half so that it can be snapped together to form a right cylinder shape.  The other half rolls inside the bottom half - like the second version.  I made holes so that using two tent pegs I can fashion the two halves together and have supports for the pot.  It’s larger, but lighter than the second version.  It’s a solid design.  It held up all summer.  This version fits right in the cooking pot.  It’s tight and won’t get beat-up in my pack.

 

Pot & Pan - Snow Peak Trek 1400 Titanium Cookset #65165 – 5.6 oz. - capacity 32+oz - $40

Pot ( 103.7 grams ) and the Frying Pan/Cover ( 55.8 grams ) weigh a total of 159.5 grams, 5.6 oz.

The pan doubles as a frying pan and a cover for the pot.  I’ve decided to pull this out of retirement and use it on my big hike.  It’s larger and hopefully I’ll make larger and more varied meals to make up for the weigh loss that I experienced on my last hike.  I have found the size is perfect for reconstituting powdered milk ( 32 oz ).  I left the frying pan portion at home to save weight, see “aluminum cover” listed below.

 

Aluminum Cover - I made an aluminum cover for my cooking pot out of aluminum flashing.  ( ?? grams ).  I keep it in the outside center pouch of my pack.  I punched a hole in the center and attached a brass rivet.  I use it as an anti-mice device for when I hang up my pack at night.  Not a single mouse got past it on my 51 day summer hike.  On a few nights I didn’t use it.  One night I watched a mouse get past a small tuna fish can on the hanging rope.  I beat on the pack until the mouse had enough and sent it sailing with an in-field hit with my hiking pole.  After that I went back to using the aluminum pot cover.  It continued to be a perfect mouse stopper.  And it makes a great pot cover too.

 

Spoon and Fork Set - Snow Peak Titanium #65126 - 1.4 oz - $8.95 total 37.4 grams { cable 1.6, fork 15, spoon 20.5 }  I was using a spork, which is lighter, but it’s nice to be able to fully scoop up everything in the bottom of the pot, so I’ve semi-retired the spork.  Plastic utensils are out because I use them to cook.

 

Can Opener – G. I. Can opener “P-38”, #23107, $1.80 for a pack of two.  Each weighs 8 grams.  I don’t pack canned food, but you never know what you might find out on the trail.

 

Misc. Stuff:

 

Thru-Hiker’s Guide 2008 – ISBN: 0-9707916-2-7

Thru-Hiker’s Guide 2007 – ISBN: 0-9707916-9-0

Thru-Hiker’s Guide 2006 – ISBN: ?, weighs 196.0 grams

 

* Photocopy the relevant pages and carry only those pages.  On my next hike I will photocopy the same page to the upper left corner of an 8.5” * 11” piece of paper.  That will leave me approximately the right amount of space for my notes and written thoughts.

 

Whistle - ? grams, “Fox40 Classic”, very light weight.  I bought this whistle to use in school for when I’m on lunch duty.  It’s great on the trail too.  Very, very loud; no moving parts.

 

Papermate Pen - 5.4 grams  Something is need to write with for the journal and postcards.

 

Bug Mesh - for covering my head, especially at night.  Works great.  Campmor #81276 $.99, 61.5 grams

This item is less important if I am using my hammock with the mosquito netting or my Eureka Backcountry-1 tent ( which also has good bug netting ).  I’ve never needed to use a head net while walking.  But then again I haven’t hiked in black-fly season.  I have camped in that season in upstate New York.  Under those conditions, then this item is a must-have.

 

Toilet Paper – duh!  Pack extra and keep a small roll with you at night for emergencies and hang the rest up with your food.  The mice love to take toilet paper for nest building.  My latest way of storing this item is to place a mostly used up roll in a large size peanut butter jar along with a tube of benadryl.  That permits me to keep it with me at night and the container is virtually mouse-proof.  I listened to a mouse knaw on the jar threw much of the night – no marks on the jar at all.

 

Rope – Used to tie up the food bag at night and some extra for tying down odds and ends.  Use white nylon rope.  I was using black nylon rope, but the rope was a hassle to see in the dark.  I cut pieces to use with my tarp.  A long piece for the center to hang the tarp over my hammock, end pieces for tying corners down, and short pieces for drip lines.  Both my tarp and poncho have extra grommets added to them so I can stitch them closed in poor weather conditions.  I have many short pieces of rope for doing this.  I haven’t found any light weight clip that works out better than the short pieces of rope yet.

 

Duct Tape – Wrap some around a water bottle or hiking pole.  I made a wallet and over-shoes ( rain covers ) for my boots while re-supplying in town during my last hike.

 

Notebook, Writing Paper, Envelopes, Stamps - I have trouble remembering what I did ten minutes ago.  I need to keep some record of each hike.  And of course it’s nice to write home.

 

NY/NJ Appalachian Trail Guide - 205.1 grams ( only used when hiking section hikes in NY/NJ )

I’ll be carrying a guidebook and maps on my next hike because I’m meeting a hiker in the middle of the Smokies.  I gotta be able to find him.

 

I like the local trail guides and map sets.  Especially before and after a hike.  They help me make sense of my journal entrees.  During my last hike I relied heavily on the Thru-Hikers Guide.  But Wingfoot is no longer producing it.  I decided that I will enter all of the data points and info from the AT Databook and the 2007 Thru-Hikers Guide and pack the pages that I need from the Thru-Hikers Companion on my next hike.

 

 

Peanut Butter Jar 1 ( small, red cap ):

I started using peanut butter jars to store small items to be able to have these close at hand and yet protect the contents from water and mice.  They work exceedingly well.  Everything stayed perfectly dry and I listened to a mouse scratch and chew for a very long time, trying to get into one.  Not a mark on the jar – truly amazing.

 

Allergy Pills - I have allergies ( pollen ).

Nail Clipper - a very small one.  21.9 grams  Foot care is extremely important.  Once trimmed my nails too short ( without using clippers ) and almost ended a hike before it started from an in-grown toe nail.

* I need to drill some holes in this to cut down on weight.

Tweezers - For tick removal 12 grams.  Lighter pair 5.4 grams.

Cigarette Lighter - ( Bic ) to light stove, burn up ticks, seal ends of nylon rope.  I carry two because I’ve had lighters break on me in the past.  ( 22 grams each )

Knife/Multi-tool - Leatherman Squirt P4 ( 2 oz, 55.1 grams, $30 ).  Pliers, Knife, etc  I like the pliers feature in the Leatherman tools for fixing things and pulling apart stubborn rope knots.

Sewing Kit - just a spool of black thread and some sewing needles.  It is inevitable that some buttons will need to be sewn back on, things to mend.  23 grams.

Toothbrush & toothpaste - I like to talk to people, not make them run away.  Yeah, I cut half of the handle off to save weight.  I use a sample size tube of toothpaste.  Toothbrush weighs 9 grams.

Shaver - I carry one disposable shaver to look civilized, at least once in a while.

 

Peanut Butter Jar 2 ( small, green cap ):

Bandaids - You never know if you’ll do something stupid and cut or burn yourself and of course...blisters.

Neosporene Ointment - Great for cuts and scrapes.  It also very good to use on blisters and any rashes.

Vitamins and Aspirin Pills - Hikers tend to eat high calorie items.  We are not likely to eat well balanced meals.  My doctor put me on high doses of B12.  So I take a huge B multi-vitamin.  This last trip the mosquitoes barely touched me and I was wearing shorts and a t-shirt, even in the swamps.  I remember reading somewhere about high doses of B-12 driving off mosquitoes.  Something to think about.  I’m going to pack calcium pills on my next trip.  The food that I was eating didn’t contain much calcium.  Gotta think more about what food to pack next trip.

 

Peanut Butter Jar 3 ( large ):

Benadryl Ointment - Great for butt itch, insect bites.

Toilet paper -

Glasses – I put my glasses at night in this container so that I know where to find them.  I know where they are, that they are safe from being lost, stepped on, rolled on, or mice doing whatever to them.  I put my glasses inside the toilet paper inner cardboard tube.

 

Blue Ditti Bag: - ( not waterproof ) 7.5 grams

 

Holds the cooking items mentioned above:  Fork & Spoon, tent stakes, and my headlamp.

 

Compass - Doesn’t need batteries and it always works.  ( 23.7 grams )  It’s surprising how many people don’t know how to use a map and compass.  Learned that stuff back in my old Boy Scout days.  Come to think of it, my compass is from back then too.  ( It finally fell apart 3/6/08, I have to replace it. )

 

Headlamps (2) – Energizer LED headlight with 6 leds.  47.4grams each plus 36.2 grams for all three AAA batteries.  This headlamp has a total of 6 leds each.  Each has a push-button switch with 5 settings; two white spots, two white floods, all four white leds, two red floods, and off. I like this light because it is brighter than my previous headlamps and I can pack these lights away without worrying about the things turning themselves on while I’m hiking because the switch is a push button switch instead a slide-type.

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I am now packing another Energizer headlamp which uses the same batteries, but has one single focused 1-watt white led, two flood white leds and two red leds.  It is heavier but much brighter than the other headlamp that I use.  I now pack two because if you have ever run your batteries down on a night hike, well then you’ll appreciate having a second headlamp ready to go.

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I use the six led headlamp the most often because the batteries last the longest with that headlamp.  It also is just bright enough for most uses.  But the larger headlamp is really bright for hiking at night.

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I added a strip of duct tape to the top of the six-led headlamp to give some additional support to the push-button switch cover and an additional thin strip to the bottom of the clear face to prevent the light generated from refracting into my glasses.  That’s a real distraction when hiking in the fog at night.  The larger headlamp doesn’t have this light refraction problem, but is does have a problem with the larger and heavier lamp body.  It folds down from the bouncing of hiking.  So I’ve had to use rubber bands to hold it up in place.

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Headlamps are great for searching yourself for ticks at night.  That frees up my hands to hold a couple of small mirrors to look in nooks and crannies.  Hiking with a headlamp also allows me to hike with one or two poles because my hands are freed up to hold onto the poles.  I found the option of spot/flood lamps to be very useful.  The spots are nice to use, but they made a huge white blur in front of me while hiking in the fog at night.  I added duct tape to the bottom of the lamps to keep the light from refracting into my glasses, which was very distracting.  Hiking on a clear night with the red leds on is pretty cool, because my night vision was unaffected by the red light.

  I’ve hiked in the dark with a smaller Energizer LED headlamp ( 47.7 grams + 36.3grams for the AAA batteries ).  It had two settings { two small white spot lights or two small spot red lights ).  Not too bright.  Just enough light to hike by on a clear full moon night.  ( I did this south of Culver Lake, NJ with two experienced hikers Sea Shell and Fuzzy ).  I stopped using this lamp on trips because I found that it turned itself on a couple of times in my backpack.  The slide-switch turned itself on while bouncing around in the backpack.

 

Radio  My mother bought me a Sony S2 Sports Walkman Armband AM/FM/Weather Radio ( digital tuner ) for Christmas.  It uses one AAA battery.  It weighs 102 grams without the armband.  The armband weighs 29 grams.  I have never listened to a radio or mp3 player while hiking. But wished that I did on one of my hikes.  I relied on a weather report from two different people.  Both told me that tropical storm Ernesto was veering off from our area.  They were wrong.  My wife told me, after the fact, that the local stations updated the prediction.  I wish I knew that before I got to the top of Wawayanda Mountain.  So from now on I will pack some kind of light weight radio and headphones.  My only technical requirement is that it must use AAA batteries that match what I’m using for all the other electronic items ).  I love listening to National Public Radio on Saturday nights.  Nothing beats ending a long day hiking and hearing the greeting song of Prairie Home Companion.   Many a time I’ve hiked the last couple of miles to a shelter, listening to that program.  It made those last couple of miles a real joy.  Better yet, if I’m done for the day, hearing about Lake Wobegon while hanging in my hammock after walking all week is wonderful.

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As much as I liked this radio, I did not bring it last summer on my second big summer hike.

 

Red Ditti Bag:

 

Red ditti bag - ( not waterproof ) 7.5 grams

 

Deodorant – If I use this, then I pack a  small size.  It’s nice to smell good, but after three days in the woods, then deodorant really doesn’t matter.  Advice - don’t change brands just to make pack weiight.  My son destroyed his armpits when he changed brands. 

 

Mirrors (2)  - To be able to search ALL of your body for ticks.  2 * $2.99, 21.7 grams each  Campmor

 

Insect Repellent - For the gaiters.  I hate wearing this stuff or even sun-block.  But after being nailed by a deer-tick, I heavily spray the leg-gaiters.

 

Carabiner - to hang backpack from when I sleep in the hammock.  Yes, using a rope that I already pack is lighter.  But it’s nice to be able to quickly hang a pack up on a tree.  23.5 grams.

 

Electronic Stuff:

 

Camera - I now use an Olympus SP-550UZ digital camera.  All of my cameras are made by Olympus.  I use these because I trust the brand, the operations on all of the cameras are similar, which lessens the learning curve each time that I purchase one.  I like that they all use AA batteries which are easily replaceable.  This is one of those times where I noticed that the crusade of minimizing weight minimized quality past the acceptable level.  I noticed although my last two compact/cheap digital cameras had large pixel counts ( 5 & 6 megapixels ) they produced lower quality pictures than my old heavy C-3000 ( 3.1 megapixels ).  Clearly the weight of quality optics is worth carrying.  And this new camera has quality optics!  The zoom range is amazing and image clarity just blows all of the other cameras away. 

  I started out on my 2007 summer hike with a light weight Olympus 5 meg pixel camera ( 200.1 grams + 58.4 grams for two NhLi AA batteries, 45.3 grams case, 1.1 grams memory card ).  I smashed the LCD display on the camera in the Smoky Mountains when I put down my pack to chat with some nice people.  I replaced it with an Olympus FE-170 ( 305 grams ).  It was a 6.0 megapixel model with a soft/flexible LCD screen.  It took similar quality pictures, but a button jammed on it during a short hike.  These light weight cameras are attractive.  They use only two AA batteries instead of 4.  I like to keep my cameras in a soft case attached to my hip belt.  This way they are accessable  and I can twist in an appropriate way when I fall to protect it.

 

Water:  This is an important topic heading!

 

Water Bag (4) – 2.5 Liter Platypus ( Campmor #12321, $9.95, 1.2 oz )

I decided to replace the plastic water bottles with these.  These are so light and convenient.  I purchased the water filter link ( Campmor #55338, $5.95 ).  It makes filtering water a snap.  Later on, I bought a Duck Bill Drinking Tube ( Campmor #1233, $12.95 )  This makes swapping out an empty bag a breeze.  I carry four of these bags because they are very light in weight and there are times when you need to carry a lot of water.  SW Virginia was downright dry this summer.

 

Large Water Bag – 6 Liter Platypus ( Campmor #62917, $17.95, 3 oz )

I decided to add this to my equipment list after my summer hike.  I’ve decided to filter water into this bag and then pour the water from this bag into my Kelly Kettle.  After the water has been both boiled and filtered, then I will store the water in the other Platypus bags.

 

O-Ring (2) – #66 size, Tanis Hardware, $0.49

I added an o-ring to the cap of each of the Platypus collapsible water bottles.  There’s a channel in each cap to accommodate an o-ring.  I figured, better safe than sorry.  The water sleeve in all of the backpacks are above the sleeping bag compartment.  It’s best to minimize the chance of leakage onto the sleeping bag.

 

Kelly Kettle – I am now using a large Kelly Kettle www.leevalley.com item #4517.85 $85 + shipping.  It weighs about two pounds and holds 48 ounces of water.  It’s bulky and weighs a bit, but it’s the fastest and lightest option that I know of to boil drinking water.  It’s a mini-fireplace with a water jacket around the fire chamber and chimney.

  It’s pretty easy to use.  Fill it up with water ( not quite full, otherwise when the water boils, some of the water will slosh out and then down into the tray that contains the coals ).  Then stuff the chimney section full of small sticks.  The sticks will naturally form a teepee shape, perfect for starting a fire.  Then light it.  It’s easy to light since the combustion chamber is enclosed.  Wind is not at all a problem.  It burns pretty smoky for the first minute.  After a minute or so it will have warmed up and the smoke will lessen.  If I have any difficulty lighting it, then a little vegetable oil ( which I always have some left over when I reach town ) added to the sticks will get it to light with little difficulty.  I found that simmering water can be a bit of a hassle because if I stock it full of fuel, it’s a torch and it boils like crazy.  So I made a cute little chimney cover out of aluminum flashing.

  The advantages of this stove is that it heats up water very quickly and you don’t have to carry any fuel.  The minuses are it smells like a wood burning stove (duh!) and you can’t heat anything in it other than water.  So your heated food menu is limited.  I now boil my water for drinking water instead of filtering.  This was perfect because I can boil as much as I wanted to without worrying about fuel usage.  I have concerns using this kettle.  There are signs on sections of the AT posted that state that only gas fired stoves are allowed.  The kettle is probably safer to use than a gas fired stove.  It certainly heats up water faster than any stove that I have used.  I found out about this item from reading a trail journal on-line.

  I tried using the smaller version of this item a couple of years ago and again on my summer hike.  The smaller unit was fussy to use.  When it boiled over it quickly put out the fire underneath.  Since the unit is so small, the fire had to be closely managed because its lack of size meant that the fire and coals were small.  The larger unit is much easier to work with.  The retired smaller unit is item # 45K17.80 $62.50 + shipping = $72.  It weighs 575 grams, 20.2 ounces and can heat up 26 oz of water in four minutes.  Its dimensions are: 5 5/8" diameter and 10.5" tall. 

 

Kelly Kettle Accessories:

I purchased a package that included a small aluminum pot and cover ( a frying pan ), grip-handle, a steel grate to place over the coals in the base pan, and an interesting pair of aluminum pieces that fit across/into each other to be placed on the exhaust of the Kelly Kettle to use as a pot stand.  Sort of an after-burner for the Kelly Kettle.

Very interesting stuff.  Only problem was with the lousy exchange rates of the US dollar to Ireland, it cost me $55.

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Pot Stand: ( both aluminum pieces ) 79 grams.

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Steel Grates ( both steel pieces ) 84 grams.

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Food:

Stuff Sack - Red - Outdoor Research #3, waterproof, 8"**15", 750 cu. in., 2.9 oz

I’ve always packed all of the food that I needed for my camping trips.  The longest trip has been six days.  I exchanged emails with several Appalachian-Thru-Hikers.  The basic consensus was to carry only what was needed ( duh! ).  They all seemed to limit their capacity to five days worth of food.  Some items were carried as just-in-case foods - a basic meal that they could count on, buut they were aware that they could tire of eating that same meal.  So below is a growing list of foods to bring and recipes.

 

There’s a basic trend.  Everything requires water to be added to save weight.  High calories.  Easy preparation.  Lots of snack like foods.

 

Breakfast:

 

Hot Meal ( cook / eat in the following order ):

Eggs – freeze dried ( Mountain House )

Oatmeal – the measure of 2 packages,

                 one flavored mixed with an equal amount of plain oatmeal,

                 each flavored package is 280 – 340 calories

Vegetable Oil – add to most meals for additional calories.

Hot Chocolate – 2 packages/cups

Breakfast bars

 

Lunch:

Cold Meal:

Powdered Milk – makes 1 qt per package, total of 320 calories

Instant Breakfast – Chocolate, one cup of milk per package, total of 130 calories

                               * Vanilla flavor is more frothy, added hot chocolate to get it to settle down.

Preserved Meat - beef jerky can be chewed or broken up into pieces and thrown into a dinner

Sandwich stuff – bread, peanut butter, jelly, cold cuts

Breakfast Bars

Peanut Butter

Crackers, Bread

Gorp

Often I eat the protein ( meat ) portion of dinner during lunch.

 

Dinner:

 

Hot Meal:

Noodle Mixes - Lipton makes lots of different kinds, 220 calories per package

Tuna Fish – in a plastic package

Hot Dogs, other meat – if available

Vegetable Oil - for cooking and for healthier fat calories, 120 calories per tablespoon.

Fresh vegetables if available.

Instant Pudding – makes two cups per package, each package 640 calories

 

Misc:

Candy - sugar!  energy!

Lots of Kool-Aid ( with sugar ) flavor mixes - to add to that sweet tasting puddle water that you have to drink

  I have found that I can walk up hills much faster with sugar added to my diet.  Seriously, it makes a ten mile              day into a fifteen mile day.

Powdered Milk & Instant Breakfast ( Chocolate )

Seasonings - There’s only so many ways to cook things that you boil.  Gotta spice things up!

Salt

Pepper

Dehydrated onions

 

Rope - to hang the food bag at night

 

Luxury Items:

Composition Notebook - Gotta keep a record of my trips.

Postcards - Gotta say hello to my loved ones.  Plus it’s cool to see the postmarks when you get home.

Pen - How are you supposed to write in the notebook or on the postcards without a pen, huh?

 

Bounce Box = a box to ship from post office to post office:

The idea is to mail ahead things that are needed for the future to avoid carrying them.

 

Guide Books -

Maps

Nikiwax – for resealing leather boots.

Large Toothpaste to refill sample size.

 

Wish-list Items = not purchased yet:

Maps - I have them.  I’ve looked them over before a hike, but I haven’t brought any with me so far.

 

Semi-Retired items:

These items are in the questionable pile, or listed here because they are seasonal items.

 

Tarp – 8 1/2' * 10' - Campmor #20069 ( Equinox # UBG-308 ) 13.9 oz   $64.99  actual measurements 94” * 118”  I used this tarp on my big summer hike.  It worked out pretty well.  It kept me dry during some pretty heavy downpours.  I had to extend its length by tying my poncho to one end for it to be effective.  It is a little too short.  I originally planned on using my poncho as a fly for the hammock, but it will only be of value in a light, straight downward rain.  I needed something of larger dimensions for worse weather.  So I tried out this tarp.  I added grommets to the edges to make it more versatile.  It can be an open arrangement over my hammock or closed up like a peanut shell.  I fastened a long nylon line up the middle to hang the tarp.  I added shock cords to one tie down point on the center line.  I added shock cord and thin nylon rope to each corner point for tie-downs.  All this was done to speed up the setup process.  A cool thing about this tarp and the extra tree straps is that I can hang this first, quickly, BEFORE I hang the hammock.  That’ll keep me and the hammock dry in the rain.  I’m not happy about packing 13oz for this item, but I’ve camped in the pouring rain.  If I can keep the poncho on and then hang this tarp, and then the hammock, then that’ll keep me and everything else dry.   That’s worth the weight.  I selected this over the 9' * 9' #22224 tarp that cost only $33.99 because that one weighed 23 ounces.  That’s 10 extra ounces.  The extra money spent to save the weight seemed to be worth it to me.  Note, the dimensions 94” * 118” which I thought were just right for the hammock if centered properly.  Most hammock manufacturers sell tarps but they are smaller and hung over the diagonal.  This doesn’t look like they will give adequate rain protection in nasty weather.  My tarp will be hung like a rectangle and looks like it will handle rougher weather.  * I found on my hike that the tarp needs to be about a foot longer.  I used either my poncho or the rain-kilt to supplement my tarp ( to make it longer ).  This worked out perfectly during some heavy downpours.

 

Water Filter - Katadyn Hiker Pro Microfilter.  11oz $79.95  I bought this at Cabalas.  The price was a little high, but I had a $50 cash coupon to use up.  I received water from a hiker that used a unit just like this one.  It seemed to work fine then.  I used this through all of my 630 mile summer hike.  With care, I was able to nurse the filter cartridge for the entire hike.  I found that placing the inlet tube on top of a clean flat rock, followed by something heavy to hold the tube in place allowed me to filter water without churning up a bunch of silt.  It seemed to work well, but I am convinced that I picked up some kind of intestinal bug in spite of careful water management.  Two stool tests have come back negative for parasites, but I still have guardiasis symptoms months after my big hike.  I now no longer rely on filtering water.  I boil or chemically treat water instead.

 

Nylon T-Shirt – 121 grams.  This will be an experiment to try and reduce the rash marks from shoulder straps that I got on my last summer hike.

 

Rainpants - Campmor Cascade Full Zip Pants #82350 - 12 oz. - $29  I tested these out hiking and while riding my motorcycle in the pouring rain.  They did the job.  They are a great waterproof windbreak.  The full length zippers for each leg makes taking them on/off a breeze ( pun intended ).  The spaced velcro allows me to unzip them, but still have the legs together, which allows for some airflow.  But they will cause sweating while hiking.  I’d only use them in lower temperatures and in some serious downpours or around camp.  These are an optional item.  Sometimes I bring them, most of the time they stay at home.  I pack them mostly in case of a worst-case scenario – driving rain or a serious need for a windbreak.  I keep thinking about replacing them with Marmot Precip Pants.

 

Pants - a pair of long “Dickies” workpants ( gray ).  I wear these over the shorts ( listed above ) in cold weather, otherwise I pack them.  I wear them when I go to a respectable establishment.  I used to wear my light green ones, but my teenage son “borrowed” them.  They are comfortable and they dry quickly.  Green or gray are light colors and they hide dirt better than other light colors.  Not too hot in the sun, not too cold in the winter.  Wearing light colors is very important when you have to be concerned about tick infestation.  You need to be able to see the blasted things.  These pants are very durable, great for both cold and hot weather, and great for providing a layer between me and the bugs.

 

Shorts - “Dickies” work shorts ( dark blue ).  I wear these in hot to chilly weather.  They are comfortable.  Air flows well and they dry very quickly, even in damp conditions. They are long so privacy is maintained. 373.2g

* I will be adding zippers to each leg to be able to add the legs from a long pair of pants.  That will allow me to pack just the shorts and legs and not a second pair of long-legged pants.  I retired these in favor of Columbia Omni-Dry Venture II Convertible Pants 34” inseam Campmor # 40473SAG34 $42.99 less 10%.

 

Polyester ( Fleece ) Pullover Campmor Polartech 200 Fleece Pullover #36484 $19.94 15oz.  I used this to replace my sweatshirt.  It’s lighter and warmer.  It’s made of polyester fleece, so it will have some insulation value if wet.  It is an excellent thermal layer.  I replaced it with a spandex shirt that fits tighter and is lighter in weight.

 

Polyester woven pants - from Cabela’s,  very comfortable.  They are great for sleeping in cold weather.  Fairly easy to take on/off this layer.  580 grams.  These are way too heavy.  I replaced these with a pair of Marmot polyester fleece pants from Campmor.  I keep these on my motorcycle now.

 

Suspenders – I bought these because I’m used to wearing a belt at home and work.  But wearing a belt is heavy and was a problem with the waist belt on my pack.  I used rope as suspenders to hold up my pants on my first hike.  Then tried out the suspenders.  They worked great, but I decided to go back to rope because of the weight. They weigh 140 grams.

 

Backpack - Gregory ( Z-Pack ) - Large Campmor #99978 3950 cu. in.  3 lbs, 5 oz.

I like the size and the simplicity of packing this pack.  Heavy stuff in first, lightest stuff on top, water is stored up against my back.  The suspension straps are much smaller and thinner than my other packs.  So it’s not as comfortable to wear.  I’ve carried up to 8 days worth of food and supplies in this pack.  I really like this pack.  It’s my lightest pack, and the one I’ve used the most.  I think it has just the right balance in features.  It has one large compartment with access from the top and a long rain-sealed side zipper.  It has one pocket in an awkward cover for the top of the pack and a nice pocket on the back of the pack which forms a sleeve between the pocket and the pack.  My only complaint about this pack is the one size fits all approach.  The waist belt is too long for me.  It fits right at the beginning of a long hike.  But as I loose weight, the belt becomes too long for me.  I emailed Gregory about this and asked for some advice or the chance to purchase a damaged smaller pack, so I could sew in a smaller belt.  They never responded to my email.  My mother stitched the waist belt so that it’s a couple of inches smaller, so I can use this pack.  As I lost weight on my summer hike I had to pad the shoulder and hip straps.  The straps are much thinner on this pack compared to the Kelty.  And it is less comfortable to wear compared to the Kelty.  I think I will retire this pack.

 

Backpack - Gregory ( Shasta ) - Large - 5500 cu in. / 91 liters Campmor #68506, 6 lbs. 5 oz / 2.9 kg

I use this only for cold weather backpacking.  It’s huge, but simple.  I bought it at Campmor in Paramus, NJ.  They have an excellent sales staff!  They spent a lot of time fitting it to me.  I’m tall ( 6' 3" ) and thin ( 160 lbs. ).  I selected a large pack to fit my height; the waist straps and shoulder gear had to be medium sized to fit my thinness.  They took the time and effort to exchange the fittings to the correct sizes and to adjust them appropriately and they taught me how to adjust everything.  After that experience I can safely say - always buy a pack locally from a reputable dealer. It was on sale for $209, which was a bargain.  As Ultralite standards go - it’s clearly a heavy pack.  But it is a very comfortable pack.  All of the straps and hardware make carrying a pack as comfortable as possible.  The straps are way too long and need to be trimmed to save a little weight.  One thing about hiking with a large pack - everything fits in it.  I have nothing strapped outside my pack except the stinky Kelly Kettle Stove and hiking poles.

 

Poncho - Campmor #94339( discontinued model BLU Storm Long Backpacker Poncho $26.99 52” * 118” )

I use this larger one when I use the large Shasta backpack.  The poncho is extra long and is expanded in the back to accommodate the pack.  I spent two straight days in the rain with this poncho and the pack.  Not a drop on me or the pack.  I added some more closure snaps to the edges to allow it to snap up better.  I used this poncho with my smaller Z-Pack and it blew around too much causing things to get damp.  So I limit the use of this poncho to when I use the Shasta pack.

 

I like to wear ponchos instead of rain jackets because ponchos permit the free flow of air.  If I hike in a rain jacket I will become soaked in sweat in a very short period of time.  Besides, a poncho can be turned into a ground cover or a tarp with very little effort.  A rain jacket will always be a rain jacket.

 

Water Bottle – Ozark Trail MSR 20oz aluminum bottle.  Walmart $3.  I’m thinking about using this as the drinking bottle - refilled from the two large water bottles. This will give me the flexible option of being able to heat water and drink it or use the hot water bottle in my sleeping bag on an overly cold night.  And option that I read about on the trailplace.com forum.  Had I thought of this, it would have made my cold nights on the November, 2006 hike more comfortable.  99.4 grams.

 

Ring Saw - Campmor #22142, $2.99, 0.5 oz, 12.3 grams.  I don’t plan on ever using this, but it’s a super “what if” emergency item.  Look at the weight.  It’s worth carrying.

 

Mesh bag - to put Kelly Kettle in

 

Penny-Stove - I’ve only made one of these.  12.7 grams, plus simmer ring 2.2 grams.  If I had to pack only one stove it would be a hard choice between the Trangia and this stove.  The Penny-Stove holds less fuel and burns hotter and longer than the other alcohol stoves.  But it takes a very long time to get warmed up ( 8 ½ minutes ) when using isopropyl alcohol.  It takes less time to warm up when using ethyl alcohol.  But it’ll cruise along for 24 minutes before running out of fuel.  Once it gets going it’s all blue flames and pretty hot.  I found using a dime instead of a penny makes the flames smaller.  The first time I used a penny, it reacted with the aluminum and was almost sealed to the top of the stove.  I found that I had to fill it up a lot to get it to warm up.  After 8 or so minutes I could move the coin into place and the stove cranked right up.  The Penny Stove was much easier to make than a pepsi-can stove.  For direction for how to build this stove ( by - Mark Jurey ) go to http://www.csun.edu/~mjurey/penny.html  This stove design is a winner!  The simmer ring worked pretty well too.

 

Spork - Snow Peak Titanium #65121 - 0.6 oz.( 15.6 grams ) - $9   I keep switching from using this or the fork and spoon set.  Yeah, ever ounce saved counts.  But it’s nice to use a full sized fork and spoon.

 

Water Bottles (2) - I use old 64 oz cranberry juice bottles ( 78 grams each ).  They have a rectangular prism shape, so they pack tightly.  Old soda bottles work fine, but they have smaller caps.  Bottles are very light and are basically free.  If purification tables are used, they are most effective if the water is left alone for a long while.  So a place is needed to store the water while the bacteria is being killed off by the chemicals.  64 oz bottles are a nice size because they are the perfect size for using with “Hi-C” mixes.  Often flavoring is needed to be able to drink distasteful water ( iodine treated ).  I use flavored water in the old bottles and not my reservoir because whatever container you decide to use will have to be strung up with the food at night ( odor ).  I don’t want some bear tearing up my expensive water reservoir!  Some ultralight backpackers have commented on the quantity of water that I’ve been willing to carry.  Yes, water weighs a lot.  But dehydration is not fun.  Not fun at all!  But my last hike I carried even more water ( 7 liters ) and that did my knees in.  So I cut way down on pack weight - including water.  I recently bought a water filtration system so I can reduce the amount of water that I carry.  I’m still in the waffling/decision stage on how much water to carry.   I think 1 or 2 liters is a good number for me.  These are kept in the main compartment, listed below.  Each plastic water bottle is 78 grams.  I wrapped duct tape around one bottle.

 

Deleted / Retired items:

These items were eliminated because they didn’t work out or were too heavy.

 

Gaiters - Outdoor Research Low Gaiters #14235 4.5 oz. $19.99

I actually bought these for $26 in Mountain Crossings in Georgia on my way down to Atlanta before my big summer hike began.  I purchased them in an attempt to cut down on foot weight.  I used these for a hundred miles or so.  They provided no rain protection.  I tried wrapping bandanas under them to catch the rainwater before it could enter my boots.  I reached the point of having to literally take off my boots and pour the water out of them.  I gave these gaiters away.  The only practical value of these gaiters was that they cut down the amount of dirt that would hit my socks when I was hiking, but at a cost of more sweat.  I would not recommend this size gaiter.

 

Cot - Campmor # 41223 it’s heavy ( 5 lbs ), $36 but I’m not sleeping on the ground anymore.  That’s final!  I tried drilled holes in the frame to cut down on some of the weight, but that made the frame too weak.  I moved the hardware to two long tent poles so that I had two walking sticks that double for a cot frame.  It looked a little odd walking with two tent poles for walking sticks.  They also made a lot of noise.  But fashion is not a top concern when hiking.  Using the poles for both walking and for sleeping made more efficient use of the weight of the poles.  I’ve retired this item in favor of the weight saved by using a hammock and tarp.  I’m still using the cot that I cut in half and fitted with sleeves on my motorcycle trips.  It’s great for camping and in a pinch, I’ve shared a room in a hotel and slept on my cot on the floor.  I saved the hardware from one cot to attempt to add them to my pack frame so that the pack frame can become a significant portion of a cot.  I haven’t started this project yet.

 

Hiking Poles (2) - I was using two poles that I made from nine foot long collapsible tent poles from Campmor.  I used the inner sections.  That makes them around 4.5 feet long.  I adapted them to use as the frame for my cot.  I took a cot apart and moved the hardware over to the poles.  That way I could sleep off of the ground for very little additional weight.  The new pole is shorter than what is needed for the cot.  I cut the original cot frames to then match up with the hiking pole to create the original length.  I used the outside ( wider ) sections of the tent poles as sleeves to attach these pieces.  They drew some comments, but the dual use was a great idea.  I never used poles before, but they did save me from falling quite a few times.  But being metal - they were noisy!  Also, the hardware for the cot, that I had riveted in place, clinked and the poles themselves were painfully loud when hitting rocks.  I wasn’t going to use poles, but after reading hiking journals, there’s enough people out there that swear by hiking poles that I paid attention.  Later on I removed the hardware and put a layer of JB Weld on the hardware before I re-riveted them back in place.  That got rid of the clinking, but the poles were still painfully loud at times.  I retired these poles because I have decided to use a hammock in place of my tent and cot.  I made a pair of new ones out of bamboo.  The bamboo is lighter and quieter.

 

Pack Cover - I purchased a pack cover from Gregory.  It looked like a big shower cap.  It looked highly questionable.  I brought it right back to the store.  I’ve used heavy duty garbage can liners in the past.  They did a fine job.  And were much cheaper!  My poncho does a pretty good job covering it as well.  Look at the description above for “Poncho”

 

Portable Aqua Pills ( in bottles ) - 61 grams for the two bottles

 

Big Zip II Hosers 2 – 2 liter / 70 oz – ( Campmor #67031, $26.95, 1.2 oz )

After replacing my Gregory 128 oz reservoir bag with this smaller bag, I gave away this bag.  My goal was to utilize the zip feature of this bag to place juice mixes in this bag.  The problem was that the bite-valve dripped and I got sugary water on me while hiking.  So I use an old gaitoraid bottle for the mixes.  A bite-valve / tubing added to the platypus water bags works better.  Faster to exchange water bags.

 

Water Reservoir - Gregory 128 oz ( 3.78 liters ) fits nicely in sleeve on the outside of both the Shasta and Z-Packs.  On my first hike I used two large soda bottles to refill one small bottle that I carried in a pocket.  I didn’t like having to stop so often to refill the small bottle.  So I used this reservoir for the next few hikes.  I’m not thrilled that I can only use purified/bacteria free water in this.  It’s not easy to clean and I don’t want to put Hi-C mix in this and have to hang it in a tree at night.  I’m going to use the old soda bottles and one of my old MSR 33oz aluminum fuel bottles.  This will make a nice drinking bottle that I can put hot water into and slip into my sleeping bag in a pinch.  I threw this item out.

 

Sleeping Bag - Marmot Trestles ( 15F, Right, Long, 3lbs, 11 oz ) - Campmor #46528 $79.00

I recently purchased a sleeping bag.  It’s not the lightest bag on the market, but the price was reasonable.  It’s comfortable, warm, and packs reasonably tight, for a synthetic bag.  It came with a decent compression stuff sack  It’s too heavy.

 

long underwear - wool mix - from Cabela’s.  Super important when sleeping in cold weather.

I’m using these in addition to the fleece liner for my sleeping bag.  I try not to wear these during the day because taking off this layer ( when I get warm ) is a real hassle.

 

Polyester woven pants - from Cabela’s,  very comfortable.  They are great for sleeping in cold weather.  Fairly easy to take on/off this layer.  580 grams.  These are way too heavy.  I replaced these with a pair of Marmot polyester fleece pants from Campmor.

 

Electronics that I will retire:

Cell Phone – ( 93 grams )  I carried this to make my wife happy.  To be able to call her each night to let her know that I’m still alive and to be able to use it to call for help.  I’ve read that most hikers use calling cards instead.  That certainly takes care of the worry about keeping the darn thing charged.  No phone, no worries about the condition of it’s batteries. I want to carry a phone card instead.

 

FRS Radio - I’ve carried this to make my wife happy.  To be able to call for help.  I left it at home on my last two hikes.

 

GPS - Garmin V, I’ve used this as a backup plan.  If I have doubts about which way to turn, I stop and mark the location on the gps unit so that if I get lost I can go back to where I was on the AT.  This is a very cool idea when hiking at night.  It’s comfortable to know that if I fall and break a leg, I can at least know exactly where I am so that if I have to call someone for help, I can tell them where I am.  This is of course assuming that I continue to pack either a cell phone or a FRS radio.  I downloaded a file that contains all of the gps locations of most of the shelters along the AT.  I’m converting the data into degrees & minutes for my gps unit.  The gps, without batteries weighs 171 grams.  I sent this home 30 miles into my 630 mile hike.

 

Solar Cell Battery Charger - Silva Techno 4 - ( 118.5 grams )  It charges AA and AAA batteries.  It came with four AAA to AA adapters.  So all of my batteries are now rechargeable and interchangeable.  This is a luxury item.  I could just spend more money on disposable batteries.  If I leave all the electronic stuff at home then this item is obviously ridiculous to bring.  I decided to leave this item at home on my big summer hike.

 

 

Retired White Gas Stoves:

Coleman Expo 550B - 21.6 oz - fuel capacity 10.3 oz. - $60

I really like this stove.  The base is the fuel tank.  Just pack it right side up and it’s breeze to use.  No separate bottles to play with.  Much less mess.  This stove can use white or unleaded gas or kerosene.  I have only used white gas in this stove.  It has a ring around the burner that directs the heat upward, which works very well.  After using it for many years, I have decided that it weighs too much compared with alcohol stoves.  But if you are thinking about using white-gas, this stove and the Coleman 400 1 are winners.  Sure, they weigh more than other white gas stoves.  But the setup time is instantaneous and they are totally self contained.  You’ll be done eating before someone else is done playing with their stoves.

 

Coleman 400 Peak 1 - It’s similar to the Expo 550b except it’s a little lighter, burns only white gas, and it doesn’t have the ring around the burner.  I used this one for many years.  It’s a winner.  I gave it to my father.

 

Coleman Apex II Duel-Fuel Exponent - 18.4 oz - fuel capacity 16 oz. - $60

I never liked this stove.  The separate bottle is a hassle and the blasted thing flared up since the day I bought it.

I never figured out why.  I should have returned it.

 

MSR Whisperlite Internationale Stove - 14 oz - $79.95

It worked, but I never liked it.  It flares up until it is warm.  You have to play with the separate bottle.  It smells.  It’s heavy for what it is.  Its biggest asset is that it packs small.  I retired it on my first motorcycle trip.  It was just too messy to play with.

 

Spare gas bottle ( one ) - MSR Campmor #80057, capacity: 33 oz. - $12

I have three of these and two smaller Coleman bottles.  If I use one of these white-gas stoves on a trip where I’m not concerned about weight, then I use these to store fuel.  Since I’m using alcohol burners, this is obsolete.

 

Funnel - I used to use this to pour white gas from the storage bottle into stove, but I don’t use white gas stoves anymore.

 

Coleman Propane Stove  - This was a single burner that screwed on top of a propane bottle.  Not one of those loud jet-sounding ultra-light models.  It was simple, very heavy for its size and it worked.  But propane was heavy and bulky even for canoe trips.  Prior to this stove I used the very bulky two-burner stove, which looked like a suitcase when it was folded up, on canoe trips.  I switched to the single burner stove to save packing space and then switched to the white gas stoves to save more packing space and weight.  There is no way that I would even think about bringing one of these hiking.

 

Retired Cookware:

Pot & Pan - Snow Peak Trek 1400 Titanium Cookset #65165 - 7.5 oz. - capacity 25oz - $40

The pan doubles as a frying pan and a cover for the pot.  I’ve decided to pull this out of retirement and use it on my big hike.  It’s larger and hopefully I’ll make larger meals to make up for the weigh loss that I experienced on my last hike.

 

Large Pot - Snow Peak Trek Titanium Cook N’ Save - Campmor #65170 - 8.6 oz $49.95

It holds two quarts.  I was planning on using it as a cooling down container for boiled water from the Kelly Kettle.  Just to cool the water in before storing it in plastic containers.  But the added weight made me just use this in the VW Westfalia camper.

 

Cookset - Snow Peak Titanium 3 piece { cup, pot, cover } #65128 -

The cup holds 10 oz, pot holds 28 oz.  It all together weighs 5.5 oz.  - $50

I bought this when I misplaced my other cook set ( listed above ).  I figured that I would buy something different in case I found the old set.  ( I did find the old set. )  This set is smaller, which might be a plus.  Nope, it’s now in the camper too.

 

Windscreen ( for the stove ) – My three retired screens are listed here:

Windscreen version 2:  This was made out of a 24 oz Dinty Moore Beef Stew can and a 3” wide strip of aluminum flashing.  I used two aluminum ground wires to support the pot with some breathing holes under them.  It almost looks like a smiley face.  I like it better than my first version because it packed tighter and was much more solid than my previous windscreen.  I made an additional-extended windscreen out of a 3” ribbon of aluminum flashing.  It was wrapped around the outside of the can and held in place by the two ground wires.  The holes matched up for holding up the pot and holding the extension in place.  It extends the height of the windscreen and leaves an opening where the pot handles can stick out. It worked well in theiry.  I never took it on any hikes.  It weighed 65 grams, plus the two aluminum ground wires used to hold the pot up weigh a total of 9 grams, plus the extended screen that I never got around to weighing.  It’s a little heavier than my first windscreen, but it’s more compact and sturdier.

 

Windscreen version 1:  This was made out of left over aluminum flashing ( 43.6 grams ). I drilled a bunch of breathing holes at one side of the base and six holes to put the three aluminum ground wires through it to hold the pot up.  It was permanently riveted/glued together with 1/8” rivets and JB Weld.  It was basically a cylinder with both ends open.  It worked very well, but since it had no closed ends, it got bent up in my pack.  And it was bulky.

 

Folding Windscreen - Campmor #23067 $9.99, 9 ounces, 257.1 grams. It just plain weighs too much.

My very first windscreen, we’ll call it windscreen version 0, was purchased from campmor.  It folded up nicely, but I realized right away that it was way too heavy for backpacking.  So it was retired immediately.

 

Small Pot with handles - SnowPeak Titanium 600 #65123 weighs 2.8 oz, 78.7 grams. - capacity 21.2 oz - $24.95  It’s big enough for Ramen Noodles, a little large for drinks, but it works fine.  I have tried a variety of sizes of pots.  I really liked this pot, but opted to use a larger one on my big summer hike.

 

Retired Clothing:

Baseball Hat - great for keeping my bald head from being sun burnt.  Pretty good in the rain too.  This is going into the retired pile.  All Bergen hat 86.5 grams.  I’ll use a bandana instead, saves weight.

 

Snowsuit - Cabela’s Original Trans-Alaska Suit - Tall $270 - 4.2 pounds

I was using the snowsuit as a sleeping bag.  It’s effective, especially when I wear other layers of clothing.  It sure makes getting up in the morning less chilly - I’m still in the sleeping bag!  I figured; why carry around an item that is only a single purpose item?  A sleeping bag is only good for sleeping in.  It’s of no value when walking.  But neither is this snowsuit.  It would be way too warm to walk in.  You must have good rain-gear and to use it.  If the snowsuit gets wet, then you’ll wish that you had a sleeping bag that night.  I decided to switch back to using a sleeping bag because the snowsuit is heavier and colder than a sleeping bag and once you get moving, there is little point to wearing a snowsuit, unless the temperature is really cold.  And I’m not hiking in weather that cold yet.

 

Retired Misc. Items:

Watch - A small, light weight “Timex Expedition.”  Another purchase from Campmor.  Once I fall into the groove, while hiking, I can look at my watch and a guidebook or map and figure how many miles I’m traveling per hour.  Then I can plan my ETA to the next shelter and adjust the hike accordingly.  I noticed that many thru-hikers don’t wear watches.  Many asked me for the time of day.  I threw out this watch on my last hike because the darn thing has reset itself several times and it is therefore unreliable.  Besides, the small radio that I carry displays the time. 

 

Flashlight - It’s a bit heavy.  It’s a 4/8 LED headlight made by Mountain-Green that I bought at Cabela’s.  It’s brighter ( and heavier ) than the Garrity LED lights that I was using.  What I like about this light is that it uses AA batteries.  Which I use in my FRS radios, digital camera, etc.  This commonality in power sources helps a lot with recharging and swapping batteries.  Real important on trips!  I retired this light from hiking because of it’s weight.  It’s still great in my tool-bag and on motorcycle trips.  I long ago retired the Garrity LED lights.  I use them for night reading at home.

 

Match Container - a cheap, waterproof, plastic container to store wax covered wood matches.  I use “strike anywhere” matches.  Can’t buy them in NJ.  Gotta go to PA to get them.  This is my backup in case the bic lighters fail.  $0.99 at Walmart, $1.99 at Campmor.  18 grams.

 

Flashlight Garrity ( 1 led ) - My first LED light.  88.4 grams

 

Mesh bag - to put wet clothing in - I use this only on motorcycle trips now.  I tie cloths down to the outside of the pack when hiking.

 

Knife - large Gerber folding knife at Wal-Mart.  I replaced it with a Leatherman Inferno C2 Tool ( 4.3 oz, 121.2 grams $50 ).

 

Multi-Tool - Craftsman - Combination Knife, Pliers, etc 284.1 g ( 255.5 g without case )

 

Multi-Tool - Leatherman Inferno C2 Tool 4.3 oz, 121.2 p, $50

 

Shovel - to deal with waste disposal issues ( 8" deep hole away from water source, mix waste with dirt. ) Campmor #86702 $1.99, 2 oz It was cheap and that’s why I retired this item.  I can trust it on short hikes, but not on an all summer hike.  I watched someone else with the same shovel walk off happily to do what they had to do and returned relived, but with a shovel in two pieces.

-

I replaced mine with a U-Dig-It Shovel.  Campmor #85350 $17.99, 6 oz.  It’s much heavier, but something that I can trust on a long hike.  I then retired the U-Dig-It shovel in favor of a 0.6 oz tent stake.  Every ounce counts.

 

Retired Luxury Items:

Book - As much as I like to read, I’m not bringing one.

 

Sunglasses - I leave these at home now.

 

Extra Items that I might use:

Stuff Sack #5 - Black - Outdoor Research #?, waterproof,

Stuff Sack #6 - Green - Outdoor Research #?, waterproof

 

Misc Info:

Penny - 2.4 grams

Dime - 2.3 grams

Nickel - 5.3 grams

Quarter - 5.8 grams

 

1 gram = 0.035273962 ounces

1 ounce = 28.349523125 grams

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