Simplicity's Ballgown pattern 5724

THE PATTERN: As mentioned on the first page I used Simplicity 5724 as the base for my bodice pattern. I used a size 18, I didn't even bother looking at the measurements on the back of the envelope as everyone who has used this pattern has commented on the fact that it is too large, instead I used the finished garment measurements as printed on the pattern itself.  The pattern pieces were all traced onto cheap nonwoven interfacing so I would always have an uncut version of the pattern to refer back to if I ever changed size.

Once I had my underwear completed I could begin on the gown itself so the first step was to cut a mockup and try it on.

THE FITTING: On my first fitting I found that the pattern was designed for someone with a much bigger difference between the bust and waist than I had, even with my corset, so that was the first modification I needed to make. As the side seam was sloping forwards instead of forming a vertical line beneath my arm, I added all the extra that I needed onto the side front panel. In order to keep the notches and other marks in the right place I slit the pattern near the edge leaving it attached by a narrow strip near the top and pivoted the bottom of the side piece out, you can see the line that I slashed in the photo to the right although I taped it back together just in case I needed to use the original pattern again the line of tape follows the line of the slash.

Once I had replaced the side front panel and I could close the bodice at the back I found that there was not quite enough room at my shoulderblades so I added just under 1 inch to the back panel. At that point I was fairly happy with the way my mockup fitted and I had marked the changes on my pattern I moved on to the real thing. 

Side front bodice pattern before (left) and after (right)