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STEPS TO JOIN THE STRUGGLE IN BAGHDAD
Imad Mortada
First of all, one has to understand that coming here, though vital to the well being of the Iraqi people and the anti-war anti-capitalist movement, bears a lot of personal risks. Yet do not take everything the imperial powers try to put in your mind about the savageness of Arabs or their hostility to Americans. IT is like any other country with good people and few bad ones� it is only in a time of war, STILL!
Safety in Iraq and Baghdad is not optimum. One is always under the threat of the haphazard bombings all over the city, let alone the looting and armed robberies extending all over the country. The soldiers of the coalition forces pose another threat as they are most likely to shoot at any unexpected move of any civilian, without checking on the nationality or the nature of work of that civilian. (This is not to discriminate against anyone but rather to clear a point for westerners wanting to visit Iraq
Second all the info here are based on a personal experience at the time of visit (November 2003) noting that laws change frequently under the current occupation, thus it is much better to check with someone currently in Iraq!
PACKING
Clothing, make sure to carry some jumpers and sweatshirts as Baghdad can get cold at night. The weather during the day is rather hot, yet shorts and sleeveless tops are neither welcomed nor common in Baghdad (for men and women). T-shirts and short-sleeved shirts are worn by Iraqis and have been fine so far, jeans pants as well.
Medicines are not commonly available, let alone the scarcity of some and the deterioration of the pharmaceutical industry in the country due to the past sanctions. So carry all necessary medications you might need with you (some multi-vitamins won�t do you harm as well)
You would worship yourself for carrying snacks for the road and for the first few days in Baghdad (though keep in mind you will be carrying all these stuff on your back for some time - so pack concisely). Also the cab will have many stops to refill gas, food or for toilet-breaks. The route will take around 13-14 hours (4 from Amman to the borders, heaven knows how much time on the borders, and around 9 to Baghdad). Noting that the stops are not that tempting when it comes to food or the toilets. (Keep in mind that the toilet you see in Amman might be your last decent one before you get to Baghdad. So make good use of it).
GETTING THERE
I have crossed through the Jordanian borders thus my information will be based upon that.
You can access Iraq through Turkey, Saudi Arabia, Iran, Kuwait, Jordan or Syria. Though Syria and Jordan are the most common starting points. Recently flights started taking off from Amman International Airport and cost (again in November 2003) around $350. The other choice is a cab which one can share with other people or take the ride alone. There are two choices for a cab, ONE is a GMC vehicle costs $150 for the whole car (this means you pay the whole amount if you want a private ride or you divided it among the passengers if you are sharing) make sure to always negotiate the price, and ask more than one driver and company. TWO Chevrolet cars (or what is commonly known as Dolphin) costs $100 for the whole thing, Again BARGAIN the price, making sure to note where do you want to get off in Baghdad or Iraq EXACTLY! Cabs usually take off at night in order to get to the Iraqi borders at the dawn and thus cross the distance from the borders to Baghdad in day light for moderate safety measures. Make sure to meet your driver (and try to get an Iraqi one, much better as he would know the situation more than others and would share with you stories that will enrich your experience and understanding of the culture) eventually you will spending the next 14 hours of your life with this man � and that is not a bit under the current situation.
During the war people entering Iraq needed a permit. This permit was obtained through the press office in the Intercontinental Hotel in Amman (address in the list of contacts, at the bottom of the page). The office closes on Fridays and sometimes on Saturdays as well. So make sure to plan your trip well if you do not intend to spend the night in Amman. Now-a-days people do not need to do so, as the only credentials you will be asked for at the borders is your passport � thus sometimes Europeans and north Americans are asked to register their names at the press office in Amman for whatever reason!
I took a Dolphin cab from Amman alone - though not by choice, the ride was comfortable as I enjoyed the back seat for myself which gave me space to sleep when I needed to. At the Jordanian borders I had to pay 5 JD as a departure fee (depends on your nationality) p.s. make sure to carry some Jordanian Dinars (JD) cause sometimes they do not take dollars on the borders or rip you off with the exchange rate.
Sometimes your luggage will be strictly checked and sometimes you will get by with no one touching your stuff. But in both cases keep your eyes wide open on your luggage on the borders and around the soldiers.
Iraqi borders are just a chaotic place especially at dawn when most of the soldiers and officers would be sleeping, sleepy or just woke up. So do not count on much understanding or attention (though you might get lucky). The blood test whether it is HIV or any other one is no longer obligatory it is just a way to get some money from you. Just look upset about it, and stall a bit until you are asked to pay a fee under the excuse that you can do it in Baghdad in a period reaching up to three months. Agree to that, after all you do not want a needle to be inserted in your body in that shabby everything-but-hygienic room. The fee (bribe) would range from 5 JD to 10 (depends on how rich do you look, and this another call to carry some JD on you � You do not want to negotiate the exchange rate with that sleepy soldier who get paid $ 50 a month).
Route to Baghdad
Welcome to the twilight zone! A country long exploited by dictatorship, then torn to pieces by economic sanctions, later burnt down by war and currently under occupation! So you can imagine the state. Yet as in each country, there are the good and the bad. Except that here that good are REALY the good Samaritans, and the bad are � well, I would not be writing this if I ran into them. Stick to what your driver tells you, and stay in his company.
Do not worry, you will be stuck in traffic in Baghdad before you notice it. Just kick back, enjoy the desert scenery, start a conversation with your cab driver and learn about local stories under sanctions and war, eat your SNACKS, and sleep a bit. All this will help kill time.
In Baghdad
Amazing city, stunning culture, and exclusive agony. None of those I know, left Baghdad without missing it. The food is � well� worse than you can expect, though some restaurants now-a-days started serving relatively good food especially after the end of sanctions (by the testimony of those who lived here during and after the sanctions). This might be the first country you visit where so far there are absolutely NO international chains. There are few recommendations of restaurants in the list of contacts, but you will always have fun discovering new places. Bread comes in various yummy forms (make sure to try it all) and is called �Samoun�. Most of the dishes are meat based or contain meat broth so if you are vegetarian make sure to make it CLEAR that NO MEAT in any form is added to your dish; if you are vegan, then dwell on crunching vegetables at home!
Drink ONLY bottled water, and try to avoid courteously to drink tap water or cold water which will be offered to you as an honored guest wherever you go (of course unless it is bottled). Tea and hot drinks have not caused me any problems, yet always drink moderately at first to test the waters! Alcohol is available at liqueur stores and at very few restaurants, though choice is restricted in most of the cases to Arak and beer. Arak is a traditional drink made of grapes or dates and is rather strong with a percentage of alcohol up to 40 � 45 %. It is usually consumed after adding some water and ice to it (one third Arak, two thirds water) which will change its transparent colorlessness (water like) to translucent white.
Places to stay are wide spread, from hotels to furnished apartments. You might find places starting from $5 a night. I would recommend avoiding large hotels first of all for the security reasons as they are more likely to be targeted by bombs, second for high rates. It is much better to establish contact before you arrive through any of the locals or NGOs or the group you are coming to volunteer with. AND NO IT IS NOT A SMART IDEA TO COME HERE THEN FIGURE OUT WHAT TO DO, WHERE TO STAY AND ESTABLISH CONTACTS.
Cabs are wide spread all over, and not necessarily colored yellow or have a red plate. Most of the cars in Baghdad operate as cabs. Just make sure to tell him exactly where do you want to go, and ask how much would he charge. The longest ride in a cab would be 3,000 Iraqi Dinars (approximately $ 1.5)
Internet is hysterically spread now-a-days and the connection speed is rather fast in most places. An hour costs from $1 to $4 ($4 in hotels usually) depending on the location you are at.
No landline phones are available so far in Baghdad, yet communication takes place through Thuraya phones. A clone of mobile phones though are huge in size and antenna and recharged through prepaid cards. No your mobile will not work even if it roaming. Mobile phones are restricted to governmental officials, international organizations and NGOs through a company called MCI, calls from one are free of charge, yet you can not all Thuraya phones. Calling Thuraya can be from one of many calling centers in town (sometimes it is very expensive going up to $4/min and that is not a rip off)
Always carry your identifications and/or your press card (it is very easy to make one yourself even if you are just an independent media activist). Always carry enough money on you, but not everything you have. Always eat well, stay warm, and keep in mind that getting sick in a place like Baghdad is not a pleasant experience.
Make sure to ask one of the locals - who you will definitely befriend in Baghdad - to show you around in the city. And as a final note keep in mind that this will be an experience you will not forget as long as you live. These people have suffered more than any one can comprehend or imagine, and have been shut down from the whole world for such a long time. Adding to their suffering is the presence of the coalition forces and their incompetence to provide public safety � intentionally or not - have produced a lot of outlaws and chaos; yet the Iraqi people are eager to communicate, love and are stunningly generous. They will encompass you with their warmth. Enjoy your stay in Baghdad, and �Fi Aman Allah�
Contacts List
Intercontinental Amman
Jabal Amman, 3rd circle
Tel: +962 6 4641361
Fax:+962 6 4645217
CAB RENTAL COMPANIES
- Abou Yussef (owns a Taxi company in Amman and has a partner in Baghdad �drove me to Baghdad - My driver was an old Iraqi man called Haj Ismaeel Abou Yaser, and was such a fatherly sweet heart.) You can reach Abou Yussef on +962 79 5529072
- Abu Al Aref (recommended by one of my friends an ISM volunteer) He can be reached on +962 79 5638398
- Sattar Jihad (recommended by all the friends at Voices in the Wilderness) can be reached via Naseem in Al Monzer Hotel on +962 79 6812912
Places to stay:
In Amman there are loads of hotels and inns to stay in, but most are international chains, five star hotels or designed fro tourists and would charge you much per night. Al Monzer hotel have been recommended as the cheapest proper inn to stay in. It is relatively clean and the owners are very nice. They have been hosting activists and journalists since the sanctions. I did not stay there � yet I have been - but at a friend�s place, but the place have been recommended by practically everyone I know in Iraq. Thus as an emergency a place to stay in try Al Monzer Hotel (Located next to the bus garage in Abdol - or Abdali - and can be reached via Naseem on +962 79 6812912)
In Baghdad there are many hotels, though as an advice (mentioned above) avoid big ones. I have been to few and most of them have relatively clean and good services. You just ask for a hotel and see where the cab will take you. Once you are settled try to find some one to share you an apartment, is makes your experience here richer and will get you closer to the locals (add to it has been much safer than a hotel so far)
Places to Eat in Baghdad
- Venice (Bondokiah in Arabic) restaurant: a relatively good place to eat with a selection of pizzas and pasta dishes. Meal of salad, pizza and soft drink will cost you around $4. It is in Arasat Street and very famous just say Bondokiah at Arrasat Street.
- The Corner (Al Zawiyah) next to Venice Restaurant and has a selection of pizzas, pasta dishes, local Jordanian appetizers (salads and dips) and fresh juices. A meal of a salad, pizza or pasts dish, and fresh juice will cost you around $ 4-5
- Abou Nawas Street where you can find a lot of resturants serving the famous Iraqi Samak Mazkouf. Samak Mazkouf is grilled fish, where you pick your fish from a tank and they grill it for you adding a special taste to it rendering its taste GREAT and grill it on an open fire. One of the must-haves in Baghdad and relatively expensive to the locals. A meal will cost you around $ 7 �10 (some times more) depending on the fish you pick.
- Sherbat (is juice in Iraqi) loads of places serve it and it is yummy and safe in famous places (yet drink moderately at first to test the waters with your tummy). There are loads of choices from grenadine to milk and banana shakes.
- Falafel (My Recommendation) is a yummy sandwich and a great choice for vegetarians. Famous all over the Arab world, the Iraqi version of it is nonetheless superb. A sandwich costs around 10 cents and mostly it is safe to consume.It is made of fried pieces of chickpeas and some favabeans mixed with spices and served in close-to-pita bread with sour or chilly sauce and some vegetables (pickles added in some places). It is available all over the place; yet keep in mind that it has raw vegetables that might fail cleanliness standards in some places. Make sure to try it, and I am positive you will crave it.
- You will be tempted with the local ice cream, but I have not tried it for uncertainty about safety, and it is up to you to choose, but it is widely spread.
Enjoy your stay and keep safe! Just by breaking the occupation by being here you are contributing a lot to the Iraqi people who love talking to foreigners and listen to their stories about the outer world. Yet always be a good listener and spread the word to the rest of the world on what is happening here from cultural thefts by the occupation to violations of human rights and the people�s right to self determination.
Best of luck,
In solidarity,
I-Mad! [Imad Mortada] (feel free to email me with any further questions)
Few communication tools
Hello = �Asalamo Alaikoum� but the most common would be �Allah Bil Kheir� (if someone walks in your space)
Thank you = �Tislam� or �Shokran�
Good Bye = �fi aman allah�
Bread = �Samoun�
Rice = �timman�
Meat Sandwich = �Gus�
Juice = �sherbat�