Comments from Azuero

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I know it has been a while since I have gotten anything new up here. Thanks to everyone that has written making sure everything is all right. The last few weeks have been very busy. A lot to try and get done at work, but for some reason the old motivation seems to be sort of dragging. I think later today I will do an attitude adjustment and see if that helps out .

The last few days have been unusually cool for Azuero. Yesterday morning it was almost painful to take a shower. We don't have a water heater, and don't usually miss it, but yesterday morning was an exception. I guess that's one of the effects of the big freeze that's going on up north right now.

Azuero is now well into summer. The last rain out here was, well, a long time ago. Folks seem to think that this year the dry season will be stretching on for a while longer than normal. That's not even talking about the wind. The wind out here has been incredible. The sky during the daytime has a sort of hazy appearance from the dust in the air. But with the unusually cool mornings and the low puffy clouds that settle around the hills the sunrises have been magnificent. And the sunsets, as always, are beautiful.

Carnavales is coming up the first of March. That is a big deal here in Chitr� and Las Tablas. I usually take advantage of the time off to catch up on things that there isn't time for any other time of the year.

A couple of weeks ago I got the urge for one of those old foods from childhood. So, Sunday afternoon was spent reinventing an old recipe. This tastes a lot like swiss steak from the Midwest, but you will notice a few variations in the recipe. This is one of those classic re-done dishes. Here is the recipe if you want to try it.

Leo's Bistec Criollo (Steak Creole)

I started with a piece of beef a little over four pounds. I usually try and get pulpa negra, but this time I had to settle for babilla. This would be roughly equivalent to a boneless round roast. Here is a list of the ingredients:

Three to four pounds of beef.
Two medium to large onions, quartered.
One large green pepper or a handful of the smaller ones. Cut up in small pieces.
About two or three pounds of tomatoes, chopped (I use the pear type tomatoes since
they are fleshier).
About three stalks of celery, sliced in thin slices.
Flour
Oil
Garlic, smashed.
Culantro, finely chopped

First cut the meat into several large pieces about an inch to one-and-a-half inch thick. Then dredge it in flour seasoned with a little seasoning salt. (I use Bohio Adobo sin pimienta). After heating a little oil in the 'paila', brown the meat well, then remove from the pan. Add a little more flour to make a roux (equal parts oil and flour). Here it's a good idea to have everything close at hand. The cut up vegetables, a little water to add when the roux is finished and at least one extra beer. The reason to have everything ready is because once you start browning the flour for the roux you are only inviting disaster if you turn away for one second. The final amount of gravy and the thickness of the gravy will be determined by the amount of flour that you put in at this point. I usually prepare a fair amount of gravy so it's usually necessary to add a little more oil and then the flour. It should be fairly stiff but not separating in small sections as you stir it. Adjust the oil and flour accordingly. With the heat turned up keep stirring until this turns brown. I like it a little darker than peanut butter, but be careful not to burn it. At the slightest hint of scorching take it off the stove, feed it to the hogs and start over.

When the roux is approaching the right shade of brown, dump in the onions, garlic, culantro, celery and pepper, stir a few times, add the tomatoes and then enough water to stop the stuff from cooking for a minute so you can take a drink of beer. The next step is to put the meat back in, and add enough water to come up the sides of the meat, not really covered but almost. Cover the pan and cook for a long time, heck, I fire up the oven at this point and stick it in there so I don't have to keep messing with it. Be sure and stir it a few times while it is in the oven. Let it cook about an hour and then take the meat out cut it up and serve it with rice or mashed potatoes. A fresh salad with tomatoes and peppers and cucumbers goes really well with this too. Needless to say, put that wine up, this is beer food, and it should be served really cold.

Cooking up a storm in Azuero.

Leo

The year is coming to an end and out here in Azuero, it is a beautiful summer day. Soon the sun will set and the night will draw in. People will gather together, to say goodbye to the old year and welcome in the new. Not too different from anywhere else in the world. About the only difference I have noticed is the lack of that Robby Burns tune, Auld Lang Syne. Here it is a hug and handshake and "Felicidades" that welcomes in the new year.

These comments were started back in June and so if you want to know how my year has gone, you can at least read about the last half of it. There is no need here, and I have no desire to start reminiscing and going over the year's events. You all have been there too so there is no need to bore you. I have no desire to philosophize about the coming year, what comes will come.

In a short while I will travel into Chitr� and pick up something special to fix tomorrow as we rest up from tonight's celebration. We will be at one of my brother's-in-laws houses this evening, this is normal and is how we have celebrated this holiday for the last eight years.

This year will be a little different since I am to go in to the radio station around midnight tonight. At the first moment of the new year they will be changing all of their promotional advances to the ones we have recorded over the last three months, after that I will be the official voice of Estereo Lasser, 93.3 FM. Sort of a remarkable turn of events for a middle aged fat guy from the heart of the states. They want to do a live interview a few minutes after midnight so I need to be on my toes. The idea is something funny, fast and very entertaining for their mostly under thirty listeners. This is my first time live on commercial radio, I suppose there is time yet for the nerves to set in, but I honestly don't feel too nervous at the moment. I will remember not to celebrate too much before going in there. I don't want to be all over the place, so to speak. It will be a little important to be able to concentrate. Besides, it would be very bad form to go in and throw up in their new studio.

With the end of December and the beginning of the new year there is always a lot of plans in the works. This coming year will hopefully see the completion of some big changes that have been in the works here at the old chemical plant. There is a lot to do, and it appears that we will actually be able to do a lot of the things we have been hoping for. But that also means a lot of work as well.

Well, since everyone has now left, I will be closing the place up for the last time this year. Sort of a short little comment this time, but I am like everyone else, ready to get out of here.

Y'all have a good and happy new year, and a great New Year's celebration.

Counting the minutes in Azuero.

Leo

Recedite, plebes! Gero rem imperialem! (Stand aside plebians! I am on imperial business.)

• Christmas is upon us, a time of family and friends and mostly; a time of memories. This is the time of year when the past seems to become clearer and closer. For some I suppose this carries its own burden, but I think it is a good time to reflect, and to revel a little in those memories.

• Last year I had the opportunity to perform a little special task. I was called on to assist Santa one day. It was about the first week of December and about two in the afternoon I received a phone call from my boss asking if I could be at Machetzo in Chitr� at three. Machetazo had contracted with Coca Cola for the Santa Claus that appears in their Latin American commercials to help with a benefit for the Teleton 20-30. The Teleton 20-30 is a fund raising telethon which benefits the 'Hospital del Ni�os' in Panama City. This Santa Claus was on advertising for Coke all over the country and was to travel to each of the Machetazo stores over a period of several days. There, with the purchase of twenty dollars in merchandise, and five dollars more one could sit on Santa's lap and make the usual requests, and have one's photo taken . The five dollars would go to the Teleton. The problem was that this Santa only spoke English and had been imported from the far northerly regions of the planet. My job was to translate, if necessary, and to watch over his general well being during his stay in Chitr�.

  I arrived at Matchetazo at the appointed hour and waited about forty-five minutes for Santa to make his appearance. When he arrived, I moved in quickly, introduced myself, and told him I would be there close for whatever he might need. I then took up a position to the side of the small stage on which he would perform his Santa duties and just watched over the proceedings.

  This Santa was really pretty spectacular, he was the most authentic looking old elf I had ever laid eyes on. Things started off with people watching and asking questions and finally laying out their money as their children moved up to the coveted 'lap of Santa' to make their requests and have their picture taken. Off to the side, I was sort of like a body guard for the old gent, and people would notice me there and come up and make comments and ask questions. I got to exercise a lot of tact and diplomacy as well as being prepared to 'take the bullet' if the need arose. From time to time I would ask him if everything was all right, or if there was anything he needed. But mostly I got to observe the people.

• One of the things I remember best was when a small family came in composed of a Grandmotherly type, a small girl (about six years old) and an older girl (early twenties). The little girl had on a Christmas, Santa type hat and a pair of dark glasses, she was just as cute as a little person can be. The older girl was, well-err, a knockout babe; and the grandmotherly type was, grandmotherly looking. They stood back and watched the proceedings for a long time, it seemed they were there for about twenty minutes just watching the other people. They finally wandered off and apparently went through the store making their purchases. When they returned they paid the five dollars and waited in line for their photo with Santa. When their turn arrived Santa signaled for one of the photographers to take a picture with his own camera. The three moved up onto the stage and the Grandmother took her position just behind the chair that Santa was seated in. Santa, with far more restraint than I would have had, seated the knockout older girl on the arm of the chair and the cute little girl took up her position on his lap (here I might have reversed this seating arrangement, but then that is why I am not Santa I suppose). The little girl seemed very shy at this point and hardly spoke to Santa while the pictures were being taken. The photo session ended and they all moved back out into the crowd where they spent a long time just watching the other people move up and have their time with Santa. Finally the older woman spoke and turned to leave. The other two started to follow when suddenly the little girl broke loose and raced for the stage. She jumped up on the stage and ran to the side of the chair with Santa and started whispering furiously in his ear. All I could hear from my position was the start of each sentence, "Yo quiero�.". She then turned and ran off the stage and taking the hand of the older girl they all left the store. This was one of the most enchanting things I have ever seen, and I hope that she got all of the things she asked for.

• A short time later a second incident took place which stands out clearly in my mind. A lady with a couple of little kids came up and asked how much it was to have photos taken with Santa. Here I have to explain that the lady could best be described as sort of 'plain' looking, which is to say that I am sure she very carefully counted every cent she had (i.e.: this was not one of the upper crust of society but just a regular person that has to struggle from day to day).

  I explained how the photo thing worked and she remarked that it seemed a little expensive. But as I have to speak Spanish a little slowly, I was just arriving at the part where I was explaining that it was to raise money for the teleton. When I mentioned that it was for the teleton she said, "oh, I see".

  Probably about an hour or more had passed, and I noticed that she had returned and stood watching for a long time. She then asked again what she had to do to have the photo taken and I explained again, and a short time later she returned with her receipt, and went and bought the ticket to take the photo. I had the impression that there were two things going on, one was that her kids really wanted the photo taken with Santa, but I also had the distinct impression that she was swayed by the fact that the proceeds went to that one charity. I will never know, but still, I had one of those hair raising along the spine sort of feelings and it gave me a little to think about. I have the feeling that this lady sort of carries her own blessings inside her, I hope things have gone well.

• Well, That's my Christmas story for now. I hope that the season finds everyone and that everyone finds the season. Merry Christmas to all.

  Celebrating in Azuero.

  Leo

• [From Piae Cantiones (Finland, 1582)]

  Gaudete! gaudete! Christus est natus ex Maria Virgine: Gaudete!

  Tempus adest gratiae, Hoc quod optabamus;
  Carmina laeticiae Devote redamus.

  Gaudete! gaudete! Christus est natus ex Maria Virgine: Gaudete!

  Deus homo factus est, Natura mirante;
  Mundus renovatus est, A Christo regnante.

  Gaudete! gaudete! Christus est natus ex Maria Virgine: Gaudete!

  Ezechiellis porta Clausa pertransitur;
  Unde lux est orta, Salus invenitur.

  Gaudete! gaudete! Christus est natus ex Maria Virgine: Gaudete!

  Ergo nostra concito Psallat iam in lustro;
  Benedicat Domino: Salus Regi nostro.

  Gaudete! gaudete! Christus est natus ex Maria Virgine: Gaudete!

  [Translation]

  Rejoice! Rejoice!
  Christ is born of the Virgin Mary; rejoice!

  The time of grace has come for which we have prayed
  Let us devoutly sing songs of joy.

  God is made man, while nature wonders
  The world is renewed by Christ the King.

  The closed gate of Ezekiel has been passed through
  From where the light has risen [the East], salvation is found.

  Therefore let our assembly sing praises now at this time of purification
  Let it bless the Lord: greetings to our King.)

• Christmas is now just a few days away. Lights are up everywhere and the center of Chitr� is a mass of humanity. There are even shoddy Christmas songs blasted over loudspeakers in addition to the usual 'musica tipica' and reggae in front of the stores in 'el central'.

  Chitr� is not a very large city but is the 'cabezal' of Herrera and the largest , most industrialized city on the Azuero peninsula. In the central part the streets tend to be narrow and the buildings and storefronts crowd the streets. Many merchants move merchandise out onto the narrow sidewalks and put people out front to attract attention in an attempt to increase their sales. The net result is that for about a six block radius, the street takes on a sort of medieval appearance with people crowded off the sidewalks, people yelling trying to sell things, and traffic moving at a snails pace weaving in and out between groups of people crowded out into the street. Very little of it has to do with the nativity of Christ, but everything to do with trying to make a little more money to add to the 'anual ingresos' before the end of the year and the descent of the holy auditors. In a way it's sort of disgusting but in a way it also has an odd sort of beauty. I like it. But I don't like having to go down through all that looking for some hidden treasure. It's too much like the opening scene from the move 'Gremlins'.. I find it beautiful but a little creepy.

• Chitr� is decorated, the city put up their decorations right at the beginning of December. The decorations were up before the annual Christmas parade which took place on the sixth of December. This is always held in the early evening, and is usually over in about forty five minutes. It is probably the only parade in this part of the country that has any similarity to a parade in the states. Even that similarity is an illusion though.

  A lot of people decorate like crazy, their houses look like jewel boxes. Lights and decorations are arranged carefully and at night look incredibly beautiful. Others put up a string of lights and that's it. Still, for the most part, their decorations are inside. There is not much of that competitiveness that is seen in other parts of the world; each neighbor trying to outdo the other. What is more obvious is a sort of Latin, "Well, I like it this way", attitude. Some houses are decorated in a really fantastic manner, that anywhere else would be considered tacky. Here people stop to admire the creativity of working in a lighted Santa into a nativity scene. Tackiness is king and I say that with all due respect, it is done with a style and 'panache' that would be impossible for any politically correct cynic. I admire that.

• One of my brothers-in-law always sells Christmas trees at the first of December. He sets up on the main street into Chitr� in front of his house and sells them until they are sold out. These are imported Douglas firs, and he sells them under everyone else's prices. The super market Masisa also sells trees and I heard an interesting story involving these Christmas trees. West of Chitr� is a low mountain range, and one of the towns at the base of the road up to the Montuoso Forestal Reserve is Las Minas. Las Minas has enough elevation to have a cooler temperature than the rest of the peninsula of Azuero and one of the notable effects of this is the large number of pine trees that grow in the area.

  A few days ago I heard that a lady was at Masisa looking over the trees. When she commented on the price one of the fellows selling the trees made the remark that yes these trees were a little more expensive than the ones selling down the street (my brother-in-law) but that all these trees were imported from Canada. The lady looked up and asked him what he was talking about and he replied that the trees down the street were cheaper because they were from Las Minas.

  I like this story, it kind of demonstrates the imagination that some of these folks have. My brother-in-law heard it and thought it was pretty funny, and I told the story to the manager that oversees operations for the owners of Masisa and he doubled over. (If I didn't appreciate the common sense of humor here I might think that it actually originated with him).

• La Arena is decorated as well and preparing for it's annual 'festival patronal' 'Las Mercedes', this lasts for about five days before Christmas and involves the whole pueblo. A large corral has been put up close to the center of town where the rodeo and bull fights will take place. One of the streets I normally drive down has been blocked off with the placement of a large awning to shield spectators from the sun. That means I have to take a different turn to get back to the main road and I have to keep my wits about me as I navigate. The street I now have to use has been decorated with arches placed every few feet covered with light bulbs. This is very pretty at night, but since the height of the truck I drive is higher than the ends of the arches, I have to remember and line up with the center line or start taking out the decorations as I drive. That would be very bad for public relations and I will be kind of glad when those decorations come down.

• Pes� too has gotten its decorations up. The 'parque central' beside the church has been decorated with lots of lights and is really pretty. The town, every year, sets up a sort of little Christmas park with figures from the nativity as well as a bunch of secular type figures culled from all the lousy holiday specials that the whole world is familiar with. In previous years this has been set up in the central park and the streets blocked off every night as children play around them. This year it was moved to a vacant lot above the center of town a little. It has been set up on the same land and up the same little hill that is used as Golgotha in the towns annual Easter passion on Good Friday. I am sort of glad of this change. A few years ago I unknowingly started down the street past the central park as they were getting ready to block it off. I was behind a small line of cars and I watched as the one in front of me drove on through the park and as I started forward a scrawny male about twenty years old stepped out and signaled for me to stop. When I stopped he proceeded to set up a barricade across the street. I leaned out and asked him to please let me pass through before blocking the street. He just looked at me funny and kept on with his work. I saw the Mayor a short distance away and left the truck to ask him to please let me through. I pointed out that the car in front of me had been allowed through and that if I had to back up this five ton truck, in the dark, on this crowded street that I was liable to run over someone. He considered this for a moment then told the street blocker offer to let me through. The kid didn't much like this and his resentment was obvious as he yanked the barricade down. As I drove through he shouted to the crowd of people watching, "Mira, esa gringo es loco." Still, better that than a horrible accident because of his stubborn pride. Just to show the speed with which this kind of information travels, I returned to the house not five minutes later to find my wife waiting at the front door asking exactly what took place at the park.

  Almost Christmas in Azuero.

  Leo

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