Journal: Korea, 12 June 2002 I fell into a deep slumber soon after boarding the 6.15am bullet train to Hakata. I awoke at around lunch time as we approached Hakata and made my way to the ferry terminal. At the ferry terminal, I joined a number of other Irish supporters who were also travelling on their own to follow the Irish team in Korea. Most of the people taking the ferry had also spent the previous night partying on the streets Roppongi before getting the first train to Hakata this morning. Conor (from Dublin), John (from Mayo who now lives in Seoul), and I quickly formed a little travelling troupe. The three-hour hydrofoil journey was passed watching England scrape their way into the next round of the World Cup. After arriving in Busan, we sorted out an inexpensive hotel room, got a quick bite to eat, watched the evening soccer match, and recharged the batteries by enjoying an early night. Korea, 13 June 2002 I got up early and took the first express train to Seoul. My first impressions of Korea are that it is as easy to travel around as Japan, but much less expensive. Another couple of things that struck me were the availability of internet access points and the multitude of large plasma screens in public places. Free internet access abounds in Korea. There are terminals in train stations, banks, guesthouses, and office buildings. And you cannot go anywhere without seeing football on large plasma screens. There are screens on subway platforms, in shopping malls, and on many street corners. Already, there appears to be a better World Cup atmosphere in Korea than there was in Japan. On arrival in Seoul, I took care of a few errands... I got my next match ticket from the FIFA ticketing center, spent time in the tourist information center getting information about Korea (as a little experiment, I have decided to visit Korea without a guidebook), and researched my onward journey to China. While at the tourist information center, I bumped into Gary Spain (an old friend from my days at Digital). We had a nice time reminicing about the 'good old days' in Galway. A stroll around Seoul revealed a mix of old and new at every juncture. Asian-style markets selling anything and everything are interspersed among futuristic-looking office buildings and large shopping malls. Peasants carrying produce share the sidewalks with professionals carrying all sorts of electronic gadgetry. It's almost as if Korea is bridging the gap between Japan and the Asian mainland. In Korea, the streets are clean in a 'normal' kind of way. The markings on the sidewalks and streets show some fading, there are occasional instances of chewing gum walked into the surfaces, and everything is generally clean. In Japan, on the other hand, the streets are clean in an uncomfortably sterile, anal-retentive kind of way. All markings on sidewalks and streets look as if they are new and perish the thought of there being any chewing gum on the sidewalk. Korea, 14 June 2002 I am staying in Guesthouse Korea, one of the best hostels that I have stayed in over the duration of my entire trip. Of the 35 beds in the hostel, 20 are being occupied by Irish people. So, as you can imagine, the craic is mighty. Dave (from Dublin), Dave Og (from Dublin), Paul (from England), Marty (from Derry), and I have formed a little clique. We spent most of today floating around the Irish team hotel, which is a 15-minute walk away in the center of Seoul. We did a little hob-nobbing with the gobshites (I mean officials) of the Football Association of Ireland, mixed with some of the other Irish supporters, and were interviewed and photographed by the Star newspaper. In the evening, we went to a local bar to watch the match between Korea and Portugal. Of course, we lent our support to the underdogs (Korea). The locals, appreciating our support, took turns sending over free rounds of beer to our table. Naturally, with each free round of beer, our support for the Koreans became even more vociferous. The fact that Korea, against all the odds, ended up winning the game only added to the festivities. After a great night of joking around with the locals, we decided to make our way to City Hall Plaza - the center of the post-match celebrations. Of all the fantastic experiences on this trip, probably the most memorable (so far at least) is the time spent with the hundreds of thousands of celebrating Koreans. The wide boulevard that leads to the plaza was a scene of wild and wonderfully good-natured celebrations. It seemed as if every one of the hundreds of thousands of Koreans present wanted to high-five, hug, sing, and dance with us. And to add to the atmosphere, a constant stream of fireworks was exploding overhead. It did not take us long to learn the Korean soccer chants, and it took even less time for us to scale some heights and lead the ecstatic Koreans in those chants. The locals responded to our gestures with chants of "Irelando, Irelando, Irelando". The highlight of the evening occurred when Dave Og, Marty, and I worked hundreds of Koreans into a frenzy with a rendition of "Shirts off for the boys in Green". Weary and hoarse, we eventually stumbled back to the hostel in the early hours of the morning. But on our way back, we mustered enough energy to pop our heads into each bar and restaurant and lead the well-oiled patrons in "one last" patriotic Korean soccer chant. In fashion-conscious Japan, the World Cup is currently in vogue. People are interested in the World Cup mainly because it is fashionable. Many Japanese people support other more "attractive" countries rather than their own nation. They even go so far as to purchase all of the regalia for that team, costing them quiet a bit of money in this relatively expensive country. This has created a very good atmosphere, with Japanese people joining the ranks of other nation's supporters. In Korea, it is very different. Every Korean is passionately supporting their own nation. They are extremely friendly towards any other nation's supporters, but they reserve all of their energies for the support their own team. This has created an even better atmosphere. Korea, 15 June 2002 After an appropriate amount of rest, we arose and entertained ourselves by recalling the incredible events of the previous evening. We then made our way to Itaewon - the center of nighlife in Seoul. There, we watched the hugely disappointing England versus Denmark soccer match and enjoyed a few sociable drinks. I had the fortune of again bumping into John (one of the guys from the ferry crossing) and Gary Spain (my old buddy from my days in Galway). Korea, 16 June 2002 Today was another day of destiny for the Irish soccer team as they played Spain in the second round of the World Cup. As Irish supporters, we felt much more comfortable in our familiar role as underdogs. The gang of five (Dave, Dave Og, Paul, Marty, and I) hung around the team hotel in the morning, mingling with the other supporters who had assembled to offer the team good wishes as they boarded the bus to the stadium. As we waited around the hotel lobby, our collective nervous tension ensured that we could not stand still. Armed with a few cans of beer to calm those nerves, we took the subway to Suwon earlier than planned and enjoyed the prematch atmosphere. Sporting a set of home-made Adios to Espana signs, we proved to be a very popular subject for photographers and television camera crews alike. In the hours leading up to the match, we sang and danced for those camera crews, posed for photographs with bemused locals, and mixed with the other supporters. I bumped into Conor (from the ferry ride a couple of days previously) who joined our ranks for the pre- and post-match shenanigans. I was surprised to see my neighbours from the previous matches beside me once again. For all four games in this World Cup, I have been sitting beside the same people on both sides of me. Each time we meet, we exchange warm greetings and enjoy great conversation throughout the games. I am embarassed to say that, even though they know and constantly use my name, I did not remember theirs. And now that we get along so famously, I cannot bring myself to telling them that I don't recall their names. The match itself began in a terrible manner for the Irish, with Spain looking sharp and netting an early lead. At this stage, most of us were fearful that we might end up exiting the tournament in a disappointing manner (losing by two or three goals). However, once again, the Irish team dug deep and clawed their way back into the game. Just like in the game against Germany, the substitute appearance of Niall Quinn proved to be a significant factor in yet another last-gasp comeback. It was he who was fouled, practically having his shirt pulled off him by the Spanish defender, setting up a last-minute penalty. Up stepped Robbie Keane to score the equalizing goal, sending the Irish support into rapturous celebrations. From this moment onwards, the Irish dominated the game, with Damien Duff tormenting the poor Spanish defenders. However, we could not make the breakthrough in extra-time and the match went to a penalty shoot-out. I watched through the gaps between my fingers as the Spanish held their nerve and converted more penalties to knock the Irish team out. Even though we were defeated, we all agreed that it was a great way to exit from the tournament - with the team giving us yet another great comeback and outplaying a supposedly better team. After singing their hearts out for the entire match, the enormous Irish support remained in the stadium for at least a half-hour after the match to continue to sing the praises of their fallen heros. And the players took the time to slowly circle the playing surface, acknowledging the wonderful support. Favourite football chant of the day:
After the match, we assembled outside the stadium and took the subway back to the team hotel in the center of Seoul. We bought a few dozen cans of beer and drank them in the halls of the hotel while mingling with Mick McCarthy, Packy Bonner, Gary Breen, Mark Kinsella, Robbie Keane, Dean Keily, Steve Staunton, and Jason McAteer during their brief forays into our ranks. The craic was mighty, with a bagpiper leading a long line supporters on a merry dance through the halls of the hotel. After successfully playing a practical joke on one of the team minders, he confided in us that the team were all sneaking out to Buck Mulligans pub to let their hair down. We stumbled through the streets of Seoul, somehow managing to find our way to Buck Mulligans and the partying Irish team. Out of habit, we restocked and brought a few dozen cans of beer into the bar with us. We then had the gall to sit at the bar, drinking [far less expensive] beer that we had brought in from outside. I think the bar staff were too happy with the goings on to care. We even went so far as to offer cans of beer to any player who stumbled into our group. I had my photograph taken with the ever-friendly Niall Quinn, got a disconsolate Robbie Keane to sign my shirt, and had Gary Breen do both. All of the players, with the exception of the surly Steve Staunton and the reclusive Jason McAteer, got into the spirit of things and freely mingled with the supporters. It was a wonderful night that slowly turned into the following day. ** Check out what Liam Given had to say about this evening's proceedings on shay-given.com. Korea, 17 June 2002 The sun was shining brightly when we finally emerged from Buck Mulligans. Back at Guesthouse Korea, we made the other Irish supporters green with envy after recounting the evening's events. A Korean television camera crew were there to capture the occasion. After drinking through the night, I'm not sure if we were the best ambassadors for our country. But I'm fairly sure that we lived up to a stereotype or two. We eventually called it a night (or should I say day) at 2pm. Korea, 18 June 2002 I was radiant this morning after a mammoth 18 hours of beauty sleep. Andrew (a young Scottish man of the blue nose persuasion), Marty, and I siezed the occasion of our sobriety to do some sightseeing. We visited Changdeokung royal palace, Jongmyo royal shrine, and Changgyeonggung royal palace. These sights are all a short and worthwhile walk from Guesthouse Korea. I was supposed to take the ferry to China today. It runs twice a week on Tuesday and Friday. However, I am just having too much fun here and cannot bring myself to leave. Staying at the guesthouse is a-laugh-a-minute and, after our experience a couple of days ago, I don't want to miss the Korean soccer match this evening. We watched the big game on a huge screen at the guesthouse. Against all the odds, Korea had the temerity to shock their illustrious opponents. Afterwards, a large group of us went to City Hall Plaza to join in the wild celebrations. Because there were very few westerners in attendance, we drew a lot of attention from the celebrating masses. At one stage, people had formed a line that was almost 100 yards long to give us high-fives. Once again, we enjoyed a fantastic evening of hugging, singing, and dancing with the Koreans. Marty and I decided to perform an encore performance of "Shirts off for the Boys in Green" and were then mobbed by hundreds of screaming girls. Somehow, we managed to escape from the resulting scrum with some of our clothes still on. This little taste of what it must be like to be a rock star has left us both with a conviction to waste no time in learning a musical instrument. Once again, we visited each bar and restaurant on the way back to the guesthouse, leading the patrons in a patriotic Korean soccer chant or two. Our cheerleading efforts were met with delight all, with offers of free food and drinks being made at most stops. Although I must admit that there were one or two disgruntled Korean boyfriends, who did not appreciate the attention that we were garnering from their girlfriends. What can I say... ces't la vie! Korea, 19 June 2002 After spending most of the day recovering from the previous night's celebrations, I was planning on taking it easy tonight. But when I heard that it was Marty's birthday and felt compelled to celebrate the occasion. We went on a great pub crawl through the nightlife district of Itaewon. Along the way, we met John Barnes who claimed that the best goal he ever scored was against Shamrock Rovers! Keep in mind that he was in a pub when he made this outrageous claim. As night turned into day, we made our way to a place that is, for some unknown reason, called Hooker Hill. The main activities on Hooker Hill are actually drinking and sliding down the tarmac hill on a milk crate. Strangely enough, almost everybody that was on Hooker Hill was Irish. I think this is probably a relfection of the fact that we, along with England, were the only countries to have large groups of supporters at the World Cup. Korea, 20 June 2002 It seems as if I have adopted a nocturnal lifestyle these days, sleeping by day and partying by night. Today was another day spent getting some much needed sleep. It was my last full day in Korea. As a postscript to the World Cup, we were delighted to hear that the Japanese organizing committee have voted the Irish to be the "Best Supporters of the World Cup". And Sports Illustrated chimed in with the following commentary:
Everyone at the guesthouse agrees that this was a great World Cup. The hosting countries are fascinating travel destinations with absolutely lovely people. The stadiums were amazing and the supporting infrastructure top class. And, best of all, the atmosphere was incredible. My lasting impression of the World Cup will be of the honest, friendly, and helpful local people. Spending: $590 for 9 nights, including the following:
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