

(Pictures coming soon!)
Okay, you are interested in quilting. That is great! Let's
start at the beginning by learning a few quilting terms
for those who may not be that familiar with this
beautiful craft.
- Applique
- a cut fabric shape stitched to another piece of fabric
- Backing
- bottom layer of quilt
- Bias
- the diagonal of a piece of fabric
- Batting
- middle layer; provides loft and warmth
- Block
- a square unit, usually made of pieces of fabric sewn together in a design
- Borders
- strips of fabric forming a frame around quilt top
- Loft
- thickness and springiness of the batting; there are many different lofts
- Piecing
- stitching together pieces of fabric to create a larger unit
- Quilt
- a bedcover or wall hanging made by stitching together a top fabric, batting, and a backing fabric
- Sashing
- strips of fabric that divide the blocks in a quilt
- Template
- pattern used to trace cutting or stitching lines onto fabric
- Tied quilt
- quilt held together with ribbon or yarn instead of stitches

Now that you know some quilting words, let's move on.
Quilts come in any shape, color, or size. It's all
up to you. You can make a quilt as simple
or as complex as you would like it. Personally,
I am still a beginner, so I like to keep
things pretty simple.
These instructions are for machine quilting.
The first thing you need to do is to decide
what size you would like your finished quilt to be.
The easiest way to do this is to get some
graph paper and different colored pencils. Use the different colors
for each color you would like in your quilt. Then,
color in the squares to match what you want your
quilt to look like. (I recommend buying a good quilting
book, it helps a lot if you have never done
this before). Now, calculate your fabric yardage for each color
.
Don't forget that you must include your seam allowances in
the amount of fabric that you need to buy. For
example, if you were making a quilt that is only
made up of individual squares, and you want each square
to be 3" after your quilt is done, the amount of
fabric needed for each square when calculating fabric yardage,
would be 3 1/2", because you need 1/4" on each side
for the seam. Don't forget seam allowances for your borders
either. It never hurts to buy extra fabric, just in case.
More is always better than less. You also need a
fabric for the back of your quilt, usually the back
is all one fabric, and usually has to be seamed
together because the top of the quilt is usually too
big to use all one piece for the back. Also,
you need to include an extra 2"-4" in your backing
fabric to allow for shrinkage when quilting. If you buy
really thick batting, then you should add another 1" or 2"
to your backing fabric. Generally speaking, you should buy 100%
cotton fabric for a quilt.
After you have purchased your fabric, it is a good
idea to always pre-wash any fabric you buy. This allows
the fabric to shrink, if it is going to, and
also gets rid of any excess dye. Sometimes, a fabric
will "bleed" a lot and maybe you will have to
replace it for a different fabric. So, don't wash any
light colored fabrics with any dark colored fabrics in case
this happens. After you wash and dry everything (don't wash
your batting), you need to iron it. Then you need
to cut it. I recommend using a rotary cutter, much
quicker and easier than scissors. If you buy a rotary
cutter, you must also buy a cutting mat and a ruler.
One of the clear rulers are best (in my opinion).
Now, you are ready to cut. You have to cut
the selvages first. Then, you can cut the rest of
the fabric in strips the width that you need. After
you have cut the strips, then you can cut them
into squares. What you do next, depends on what type
of quilt you are making, but you would start sewing
your pieces together. Once you get the top done, it
is time to add the batting and backing. Your batting
may also have to be pieced, like the back, if
you have a large quilt. The batting and backing should
extend 2"-4" beyond the edges of the quilt top
on all sides to allow for shrinkage.

Now, lay the backing fabric on a flat surface, such as
the floor or a large table, make sure you lay
the back wrong side up, and secure the back
with masking tape. Then, add the backing on
top of that, then the quilt top on top of that
,
then baste all three layers with either a basting stitch
,
quilting pins, or a basting gun. Make sure you baste
the quilt really well, as this helps keep the quilt
from bunching up when you are sewing it. Next, you would
fold the edges of the backing fabric over batting and
quilt top to prevent raw edges from raveling, then pin in place.
Fold quilt and place in your lap for sewing.
Pull quilt up, section by section. Do not allow quilt
to hang over side of table, this pulls on the
quilt too much. Again, what happens next, depends on what
you want your quilt to look like. For something simple,
try stitching-in-the-ditch. That means you sew following
the seam lines for your blocks across the length and
width of your quilt. Position hands on either side of
presser foot. Gently press down and hold fabric taut to
prevent puckers or tucks. Ease any extra fabric under the
presser foot as you sew.
There are 2 methods for finishing the edges of a quilt.
I will cover the mock binding way. Machine baste through
all layers, 1/8" from edge of quilt top. Trim batting
only, 1/4" from edge of quilt top. Trim backing 1" from
cut edge of batting. Fold backing diagonally at each corner.
Fold backing so edge of backing meets edge of batting
,
then fold backing over edge of batting and quilt top.
Pin. Cut excess square of fabric at each corner. Pin
corners. Edgestitch along fold to secure. Slipstitch
corners if desired.
There is a lot more to quilting than I have covered
here. That is why I recommended getting a good book.
Pictures help a lot too. In no time, you will
be making quilts every week!
Wash and dry your quilts only when necessary. Hand washing
is gentler. Use mild soap, without additives such as perfume.
If you air dry the quilt, always lay flat to dry
because hanging pulls on the quilt too much.
I would just like to say that I am in no a professional,
I make quilts for myself because I enjoy it. They may not
be perfect, but I made them and they are good
enough for me. Your quilts don't have to be perfect either,
just as long as you enjoy making them.


