by CAMERON McPHERSON SMITH
copyright 1996
PLANNING THE CLIMB
Objective Dangers, Timing and Specialized Alpine Clothing and Gear
INTRODUCTION
Once you're familiar with the adaptations of standard climbing hardware and techniques required for technical alpine climbs, and with a decent background of rock-climbing and snow and ice technique under your belt, you'll be ready to go further afield and apply the theories to the real world. You must consider what you want from climbing and then decide what route to attempt. Keep in mind that retreats are only 'failures' if you consider them to be so; and that you shouldn't. What is your number-one thought in going out to climb? To come back alive, I expect, even though this often gets relegated to the subconscious. If you come home alive you have succeeded. If you die, you've definitely failed your first and most important goal. Your second consideration? I suggest that it be enjoy yourself (however that's defined for you; for some it is to suffer), and to make a good attempt at the route, 'good' meaning in a style which does not damage the route and which gives you the challenge you seek. The third and least important: to reach the summit or end of the route, however it is defined by the particular climb. These are my most basic suggestions for staying alive. With these goals in mind, you set about to decide on a route. There's no shame in starting at a low grade, and every good reason to do so. Don't play hero; alpine climbing is dangerous enough as it is. You don't often have to raise the stakes to make yourself feel good about what you've done. As you become more experienced you may find certain dangers more acceptable and push for more objectively dangerous climbs. On the other hand, you may stay at a particular level and enjoy that, or you may even find that this is all just too much and decide to stay at home, or take up something else. Shakespeare nailed it down in Hamlet: to thine own self be true. What you take on any particular climb will depend on so many variables - such as personal ethic, season of the year, condition of the climb, and so forth - that making generalizations or gear lists is not really useful. The best general advice that can be given is to down-play technology and increase self-confidence, which is best done by increasing your abilities in snow, ice and rock climbing of all types. Obviously such things don't come quickly or easily - competence comes after long commitment. Relax and learn.
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