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When we consider making our dolls, we have a number of options open to us. We can make the dolls in Model Magic, Which is what I recommend as a start as its works basic of getting the idea on hinges and jointing into our hands. And we can use relatively inexpensive materials. Another thing we have to consider is which style are we doing. Are we doing a Penny/Peg Wooden, Clothespin Type or Groderntal style? As we look into the history you will notice this course was called the Queen Anne, or Queen Charlotte doll. That is because this time period, during their reign was the height of use for he doll style. If you came from say, Austria or Bavaria your dolls would be more elaborate and refined in the Groderntal style. Creating amore fashionable doll. Where as if you look at English styles, they are painted more, have definitive " birth" marks or moles, and inset glass eyes that look like slivers. Since these dolls were used to show off needlework and designs I looked through Costumes.org for ideas on time periods and dresses that I thought would accent the simplicity of the doll. The idea is to choose your favorite period and go with that. I prefer to maintain a time period of elaborate doll and choose my own time period of dress. So for that after many hours of gleaning the web I have come up with a generic jointed Peg Wooden doll dressed as either Constaze Mozart or a rendition of a woman in a 13th century Italian painting of a bankers family. She wears a beautiful deep rose pink velvet gown with pearls and so on. Either of these tome would be a perfect combination of opulence, time period acceptance and detail work. I suggest that you glean what ever resources you have as to the type of peg wooden doll you wish to recreate and then do research on a doll fashion that would compliment your work. Since many classes give you set patterns, I will give you simple MobCap, underwear and shift. Since so many costumes and time periods have the same basic undergarments this is a jumping off point. Part of your doll is to give it personality. A few notes about Model Magic. Model Magic is a product that feels much like marshmallows. It's wonderful to work with. Buying Model Magic in large size bags may lead it to dry out quickly. I highly suggest that you purchase the product in a classroom pack, for a number of reasons. Each portion control is perfect for body, head, arms and legs, so there is little wastage as far as using too much. And you don�t allow it to dry out. Your investment in the product is saved. Another small problem is when you attached two pieces together seams are often greatly seen. So you will need to learn to deal with it if only for a short while until you get your own knack down with it. Since we are using Model magic to get the feel for sculpting and to size patterns and get the knack of many methods, I would not worry too much on perfection. You can cover the seams after the doll dries and you sand them down with an emery board with a product called Pretty Porcelain. It dries to a porcelain finish if you desire. Paint layers often cover it as well, and since you will be painting it the seams can be incorporated to look like wood grain finish. Model magic has to be evaporated to dry hard. It is suggested that a week in a drafty area will work fine. However in the essence of time, a food dehydrator works in a pinch. Model magic hardens even more over time. But it will absorb moisture. So make sure that you keep it away from moisture or seal it well with a spray water-resistant sealer. This also gives it a unique glow after you paint it. Polymer Clay is another item just a quick coverage. Combining a few different companies' polymers will yield poor results. Make sure that whichever companies you choose you stay within that brand of polymers. Polymer is fragile if over baked. So make sure you watch the timer carefully. Polymer where holes are made are also fragile so we combat this in both the Model magic and the Polymer by using Grommets. Grommets will be set in and baked or dried in lace then reinforced with quick drying clear glue. This assures us of NO tearing when we string or fasten the doll parts together. One last note on assembly. Assembling a product like this, unlike wood., which is fairly resistant can be problematic. So it is suggested that you use items that do not cut in or cause undue friction. For this we will discuss later on. But smooth heavy wire is best or point of contact insertion glue in and washer protected turning surfaces will work as well. A visit to your hardware store will often yield great results. |
| All images copyright their original owners. Used for educational purposes only. All other information, original patterns, instructions and instructional photographs copyright Julia Sherman, Jimmy Talley and Margo. 2005-2006 |
| page 5 |
| Making our Dolls(s) |
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| She has a basic shape like a peg wooden. Don't you think? |
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| Clothespin dolls similar to Peg/Penny woodens |
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