HUNGARIAN BROAD PEAK EXPEDITION LEADER DAVID KLEIN
First Hungarian ascent on Broad Peak
AUGUST20-2000
By
Asem Mustafa Awan
ISLAMABAD
— Hungarian expedition returned from the mountains after putting two
climbers on the summit on July 31 at 1:13 pm and 1:45 pm.
Laszlo
Mecs and Zoltan Acs reached the summit via normal route and were the first
Hungarians to record a successful ascent in the Karakorums.
Twenty-six
year old David Klein led the team of seven climbers with two support
members who were involved in the cleanup of the mountain.
“The
conditions were very tough and we kind of enjoyed the challenge the Broad
Peak offered ,” said David adding,” I am very happy that we reached
our goal with out any accident.”
“We
had some close calls, we were at
7400 when the slope started to give way and I was in my pyjamas and
without my boots and I jumped out of my tents and fishing for my boots in
accelerating snow drifting around my feet was a chilling experience.”
“Fortunately
Lazlo (Pubi) was there and he handed me the boots.”
“The
weather was terrible and it offered us the minimum amount a chance and
anyone who wanted to climb the mountain should have a bold approach,
sufficient amount of supplies and enough time and nerves.
”The
expedition in total managed 7400 metres from the Normal South West Face
with Standard camp sites.
The
team pitched the Camp 2 (6400 metres) slightly higher than the other teams
who were placed 100 below 45 minutes ahead of others and same was the case
with the Camp 3 which was also ahead.
“The
camp site was avalanched when Laszlo Mezo and myself were on the summit
bid on July 24 and we were climbing up to camp 3 and there was no tent
everything was buried.
”
“ I
thought I am too young to lose a finger for an 8000er which would always
be there for me to come anytime.
The
expedition comprised of
David
Klein leader
,
Laszlo Mezey technical leader
,
Zoltan Acs climber and cameraman,
Laszlo
Dora climber,
Laszlo
Mecs climber,
Julia
Nedeczky climber,
Anita
Ugyan climber and photographer,
Aron
Kovacs Base Camp Manager,
Dr.
Gabor Vida expedition doctor and Ghulam Muhammad cook and guide from Talis
CAPTION:
Hungarian Broad Peak expedition, leader David Klein (standing 2nd from
left) with members. —Photo by the writer
ENDS
By
Asem Mustafa Awan
ISLAMABAD
— The Hungarian expedition leader David Klein left for home on Saturday
morning with reservation against the mountaineering section of the Tourism
Ministry.
He
criticized the procedures and functioning of the bureaucracy.
Besides
that he does not agree with the purposes for which they have been
developed they do not even serve those very purposes effectively.
He
pointed out that the forms and complicated
rules governing the mountaineering in Pakistan are outdated and
written with cumbersome and incorrect 'English'.
He
said,” The procedures are only good to discourage people from visiting
Pakistan.”
He
gave many examples of the in competency of the mountaineering section
stating that many of the forms are not very readable and we fill up the
forms during the debriefing that were 'loose sheets' and very dim.
The
ministry is continuously raising the fees not realizing that they will
lose a considerable market to India, Nepal, Tibet and China.
They
don't see the coming five years will be totally different. The WTO year of
the mountains is in 2002 and Pakistan must plan for it now before its too
late.
He
gave an example that the permit that you get says that in case you don't
receive the sizes of your LO in time you should bring standard equipment
for him.
He
asked the mountaineering officials how on earth can one bring a standard
size boots for instance for someone.
“The
entire concept for the liaison officer assigned to each expedition is
completely alien to me.”
It
could easily mean a very difficult experience to an officer who is not
familiar with the mountains and who has nothing to do but to sit around in
the base camp and play cards with his peers.”
Instead
of this practice their could
be a nice place at Concordia for the LO a professional one who can visit
all the expeditions one by one checking on them and he can also have a
team who are assigned different tasks.
A
professional outlook all the way and this can be the real effective help
for the expeditions if they need it. It will also provide the necessary
control over the expeditions and reduce the commonly found tension between
the visitors and the officials.
David
also offered his services for revising the mountaineering/ trekking rules
and regulations.
It is
up to the ministry and Government of Pakistan and if
it takes necessary actions called for by so many foreign visitors
Pakistani tour operators and independent forums.
He
said,” It was total waste of money in 1999 during the Mountain Tourism
Conference as there are still no
actions taken based on the findings of the conference.”