BRAZILIAN
K-2 EXPEDITON LEADER WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ
AUGUST9-2000
By
Asem Mustafa Awan
ISLAMABAD
— Thirty-four year old Brazilian Waldemar Niclevicz after two
unsuccessful bids on K-2 in 1998 and 1999 successfully climbed K-2 on July
29, 6:30 pm and proved his love for the woman of his life Adriana Carioba
whom he will marry this year and she is waiting for Waldemar.
Arriving
from Skardu on Wednesday he returned a very happy man, four member of his
team besides one American expedition member Nasuh from Turkey reached the
summit on July 29 all climbing without using oxygen.
Waldemar
has already offered Gasherbrum II meaning the "Shining Wall" to
the woman of his life whom he was to wed last September in 1999.
"It
was not easy for us 19 hours of hard climbing and without using oxygen we
made the way for the others," said Waldemar adding," We ran out
of light on the way back and there was one lamp for three persons and I
decided to wait and make a bivouac in a crevasse at 8400 metres to wait
for the light as it was very dangerous."
"Abele
reached back from summit to Camp 4 at 8100 metres at 4:00 am and I reached
at 7:00 am when the light came."
"I
am very happy that I climbed K-2," said Waldemar who earlier made a
vow before his departure for the peak in June that 'this time I am not
here to climb but to reach the summit'.
He
said," We were four climbers reaching the summit on July 29, Abele
Blanc was the first, followed by Marco, myself and Nasuh (member American
expedition)."
Abele
Blanc at 46 has 10 of the 14 8000ers, the last 8000er Makalu he climbed on
May 15. He has Nanga Parbat to climb in Pakistan besides Annapurna and
Dhaulagiri in Nepal.
Twenty
eight year old Marco Camandona also from Italy has three 8000ers to his
credit Manaslu, Cho Oyu and Shishapangma and with K-2 they are four now.
Waldemar
before his departure to K-2 in June said," K-2 is my dream peak and
she (Adriana Carioba) is my dream woman and the 'Big Day' is after when I
climb the peak for us."
ENDS
ABOUT
KOREANS
Waldemar
said," The Koreans were using oxygen and one member reached the
summit while for others their oxygen finished before summit."
He (Waldemar)
said," I don't now much."
About
American he said," Six members made the summit Nasuh (July 29), Andy
and Andy (Two andrews ?) Chris and Billy (July 30) and Ivan (Ecuador, July
31).