SWISS
NANGA PARBAT EXPEDITION LEADER ERHARD LORETAN
Loretan manages 6800 metres
SEPTEMBER3-2000
By
Asem Mustafa Awan
ISLAMABAD
— Swiss elite alpinist Erhard Loretan left for home on Saturday after
failing on Nanga Parbat 8125 metres.
Erhard
was attempting the unclimbed' Mazeno Ridge' in Alpine Style.
He
managed 6800 metres in late August before coming down due to bad weather
and dangerous snow conditions," said an official of the Nazir Sabir
Expeditions.
Erhard
third man to don the Himalayan Crown with 14 8000ers in 1995 with
Kanchenjunga summit, before his departure for Nanga Parbat said," It
is the challenge and I feel very strong that I will make it this time
Inshallah."
The
Mazeno Ridge which till date still remains the highest unclimbed traverse
in the fourteen 8000ers.
Erhard
Loretan (41) with Wojciech Kurtyka (53) from Poland attempted the peak in
1997 (The Nation has the exclusive). Wojciech Kurtyka also made an
unsuccessful bid in 1996 managing 6700 metres before turning back.
"We
went higher than the 6700 metres in 1997," said Erhard adding,"
We could have made the summit but we were low on food and second in case
of bad weather we had no option of turning back."
Erhard
Loretan climbed Nanga Parbat in 1982 from Diamir Face and it is the only
peak out of the 14 8000ers which he climbed with fixed ropes.
"Of
the 14 peaks, I have climbed 13 in Alpine Style and it was only Nanga
Parbat which I climbed using fixed ropes."
The
ridge offers a gradual climb that is roughly of 10 kilometres.
There
are few difficult points during the climb which offer mixed terrain both
rock and ice at 7,000 metres and above.
Other
member of Erhard team included Jean Troillet (52) Jean Schorderet (28) and
Chantal Oudin (32).
Erhard
and Jean Troillet have been on number 8000ers together and Jean has eight
8000ers to his credit with
K-2 summit in 1985. The other 8000ers to his name include Everest,
Dhaulagiri, Kanchenjunga, Lhotse, Shishapangma, Cho Oyu and Makalu.
CAPTION:
Erhard Loretan (Ist from Right) and his team.— Photo by the writer