MEXICAN NAMELESS TOWER EXPEDITION LEADER ARMANDO DATTOLI
3 Mexicans to make first ascent on Nameless Tower
JULY10-2000
By
Asem Mustafa Awan
ISLAMABAD
— Three member elite Mexican team of big wall climbers will leave for
Skardu on Tuesday (today) for Nameless Tower 6251 metres.
The
team will vie possibly for the first Latin American ascent besides the
first Mexican ascent via the Slovenian Route.
Thirty-two
year old Armando Dattoli is leading the side which will fix 200 metres of
ropes near the shoulder of the Nameless Tower.
The
big wall specialists are on their very first visit to Pakistan and have a
strong feeling that they will make the top in middle of August.
Ace
climber in the team Luis Carlos Garcia (32) said," The objective is
to make the summit and we will try our best.
The
climb offers (5.11A2) grade and we have all cleared 5.13A4+ grades, we are
hopeful that we will make the summit."
Luis
Carlos Garcia has two new routes in Chihuahua and one solo on Solitario
besides several other routes in Yosemite.
Armando
Dattoli said," We are taking two portaledges (two man hanging tent)
and after the Advance Base Camp at 5000 metres approximately we expect
five days for making the summit and three days in coming back while living
on the face.
It
will depend on the conditions but for speed we will try to free climb as
much as possible."
"We
consider it a big opportunity to see be in the Karakorums as it is
important to us," said Armando adding," July and August are the
only months available for us for climbing as it is holidays in
Mexico."
Fort-one
year old Mario Onate is the eldest member in the team and has rich
experience of climbing in Europe, South America, North America besides a
new route in Bugaboos.
CAPTION: Armando Dattoli
ENDS
ISLAMABAD
— Italian teacher Claudio Martin is leaving for Nanga Parbat on Tuesday
to fulfill his long time ambition and that is to write a book on the
Northern Areas of Pakistan.
A
school teacher by profession Claudio has been to Pakistan a number of
times and his first visit to the Nanga Parbat was in 1976. He came twice
after wards in 1981 and 1997 and this time he is having strong feeling to
write about the area he adores so much.
"I
love the area and I always come here," said Claudio who is leaving
for Nanga Parbat on Tuesday.
"I
am not going to Fairy Meadows this time, I have taken the Rupal side which
is less visited."
"I
got inspired when I started leading about the area and I read a lot about
the region and that is one of the main reason I come here."